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About dclayman

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  1. dclayman

    Newick Summer Salt 26: akas & sockets

    This is difficult and exasperating work. I can't see the work, I have to use mirrors, bore scope and cell phone to see it. I can only get one hand into the area. I think part of the reason the failures occurred where they did, is the geometry. The heavy double bias is curved from the flat bulkhead onto the ama socket. In the area of the cracks, the cloth is in a recurved tight radius. This is impossible for me to lay up over and get a good laminate with out the use of a vacuum bag. BUT, by filling the area with g/flex and microballoons I can make a large fillet that the glass easily follows. The repair will be stronger & stiffer than the original. I think this is the difference between a series built boat, and a painstakingly crafted owner built. As Ian Farrier pointed out, many of his home built designs were built to a far higher quality than the factory could afford. Also time has told me where the failure points are.
  2. dclayman

    Newick Summer Salt 26: akas & sockets

    Yup put a crack stop in then filled the area with g/flex epoxy & microballoons. Then laid up 3 layers of DB120 (double bias 12 oz). Working blind. Trying to follow the work on the bore scope, but sunlight washes out the display. Laminate is a bit resin rich, but there does not seem to be any voids or bubbles. The only way I can get this to work is to use g/flex. The high viscosity sticky resin will hold the fabric in place as I wet it out. Think it will be good for another 30 years. Ladybug is just getting heavier.
  3. dclayman

    Newick Summer Salt 26: akas & sockets

    I cut open the decks to fit the larger deck plates. Access to he bulkheads has been vastly improved. I was able to get a caliper on the tabbing It is about .06" thick. This would be inline with DB170 which is .045" dry. Ithink the repair schedule will be a mixture of WEST 105/206 and G/Flex 650. The addition of the 650 improves adhesion and elongation of the resin. I will try using DB170S for the base fabric, and DB170 for the second layer. I will lay up over the cracks, rather than the proper prep of tapering the area to a 1:12 slope. Too difficult to work there. This lainate should not be notch sensitive. Does anyone know if I need to drill a crack stop?: Once I have the cracks patched I can figure out a way to tab the ends of the sockets to the deck and hull. I cannot load any more of the files. I get an error code -200 file failed to upload. These are cracks. The boat did not break up. It did not sink. Just cracks.
  4. dclayman

    Newick Summer Salt 26: akas & sockets

    Russell - Didn't you work on Mocking Bird, one of Mr. Newick's last projects? Do you recall if the amas bulkheads were sealed?
  5. dclayman

    Newick Summer Salt 26: akas & sockets

    That is the implosion stringer on the side of the hull. The free end of the aka sleeve is bout 1 to 2" from the hull. There is a gap between the end of the aka sleeve and the hull, and the deck. I don't know if this was doen for ease of manufacture or the allow the hull/deck flange joint to flex under exuberant docking.
  6. I think he damage done was in dismantling the boat.  The akas have a very long taper.  The rigging loads and the displacement loads wedge the parts together.  When they get stuck, I think previous owner(s) grabbed the end of the aka to wriggle the aka out.  with about 6 to 8 foot of leverage, this could have cracked the bulkheads.  The rigging loads would load the parts in compression.  The displacement sailing loads would also load the parts in compression.  Composite does not crack in compression. 

  7. dclayman

    Newick Summer Salt 26: akas & sockets

    Hi Russell Yes there are 4 ports per ama. They are on each side of the bulkhead. I assume this is how the ama was assembled. The annotated picture may explain the ama. To visualize, rotate the image 90 degrees counter clockwise. The aka sleeve is then at the top of the image. There is about 1 to 2 " gap between the outboard end of the sleeve and the outboard hull. The top of the sleeve is not tied to the deck for several inches. West G/Flex epoxy is a viscosity epoxy, 15,000cps. It has a low modulus and high oughness compared to 105 resins and a very high strain to failure. It is claimed to have better adhesion properties. It has a fairly high pot life and gel time. It is interesting stuff to work with. Pricey though. Hope that clears the problem statement up. As to making boats is not a good way to make money... ask Mike Vespoli.
  8. dclayman

    Newick Summer Salt 26: akas & sockets

    Guerdon Ypu are right about thinking in terms of shear flow. When in doubt, get out Peterson's text on stress concentration factors. This is a complex problem. I am not trained or skilled in Naval Architecture. The sleeve is unsupported at the end. This is a stress riser, and most of the cracks have initiated from the end. But if tied into the outboard skin of the ama, I may casur a hardspot in the ama hull. Was this done as a manufacturing decision to ease assembly? Or is this design intent, as a way to allow the hull to deck flange absorb impact from hard docking? My guess is the ama is stiffened by the prisma stringer, and the partial bulkhead, and completing the bulkhead, tying it into the deck and the rest of the way up the hull will make the ama much more ridged. It will just be vey difficult. But is it necessary?
  9. dclayman

    Newick Summer Salt 26: akas & sockets

    Need Advise I rebuilt the akas when we bought the boat in 2014. Isought & received advice from both William Murphy and Dick Newick. The akas were fitted to the ama sleeves, and the fit checked with chalk. The sleeves where they are bonded into the amas where cracking as below. A bit of grinding showed the failure was extensive, and the cracks had initiated in voids in the joint. I had previously reached into the ama and added fillets of 1/4" (6.3mm) glass fibers & epoxy to seal & strengthen the joint. As seen below, one season of sailing cracked that. The indoard ends of the sleeves were rejoined to the deck molding. The repair was braided 18 oz glass tape, and e-glass shopper gun stock wrapped around the opening to provide hoop strength. Resin used is WEST 650 for its adhesion and high elongation to fail properties. I bought a bore scope to inspect the bulkheads and sleeves inside the amas . What I found is - all the bulkheads have cracks at outboard ends of the aka sleeves. The inboard ends of the sleeves where they go through the deck molding were also cracked. The sleeves end at the bulkhead. They are not tabbed to the outboard surface of the ama. They are close ended, but the end is short of the ama hull, leaving a large openingbetween the bulkheads and the ama hull. This is contrary to the drawing that calls for the amas to have 3 water tight compartments. I think this also left the ends unsupported which allowed them to crack the tabbing. This crack is typical of all four bulkheads. I believe the failures were from prvious owners getting the akas stuck in the ama. The ama was then laid on the ground, aka in the air, held down, and one or more strong guys grabbed the aka and worked it around to loosen. The breaks do not seem to be in the direction of either sailing rig loads or displacement loads. how to repair? I am looking for advice on how to repair these cracks/breaks. Please help! Here is what I think I will do- Open the deck plates to mount 6" deck plates. This will give better access to the ama interior Reach in and sand the cracks. Coat the areas with 650 andallow to start gel Apply pre-wetted DB120 in small pieces to the areas. The gel and tack 650 will help hold the DB120 in place. Re-tab broken tabbing for bulkheads and chain plate backers using same method Flip the amas over so the sleeveis down. Hot melt glue a flexible tube to the end of a static mixer tube. The pump Pro-Set 175/276 into the areas around the deck to sleeve joint on the ama inner join. Build up the decks to have a flat surface for the 6" deck plates. The amount of deck crown will cause the deck plates to leak. Shoot everything with Awlgrip Go sailing Questions for the on line experts Does this soundlike a reasonable way to proceed? Should I tied the ends of the bulkheads and sleeves to the ama hull? Should I try to make 3 water tight compartments? Do I have to beef up the deck in the way of the enlarged deck plates? I have two 5 year old cartridges of ADV 175/276 are they still good? I will mix a small batch to check gel & cure times. Or shoulod I just buy new since I am putting so much labor into the job? I do a lot of boat repair on rowing boats. But I always welcome help, advise beer and sandpaper. Here is one of my projects
  10. dclayman

    Newick Outrigger 26/Somersault 26

    13 were made. I do not know if the prototype is included in that count. It would be great if we could keep track of all and their owners or "boat husbands" as Dick Newick called them. We talked and he interviewed me when I bought sail # 8. He likes to be sure all his "boat daughters" have good "boat husbands" to care for them. We have Ladybug, sail # 8 We are in Upstate NY near Schenectady. Sparky sail # ? is outside Toronto Seraphyn sail #? was on Lake Champlain then sold and moved to the south of France Mini Moxie sail #? was in New Jersey or on Cayuga Lake in upstate NY name & sail number unknown in Sweden NnIsssoon sail # ? was in Quebec may have been brokered by the multihull source. Prototype sail 1?? was in northern California and being restored Please contact me directly. I have a lot of drawings, some mine, and some by Dick Newick to share. I would like to make a list serve like a small F-boat group so we can help each other by comparing notes and restoration projects. Dave
  11. dclayman

    Newick Summer Salt 26: akas & sockets

    Hi Michal I have Lady Bug Outrigger # 8. We are in upstate NY near Schenectady. I have been restoring Lady Bug since I bought her as a dry land wreck. . I talked with Dick Newick several times. I have also talked with Bill Murphy (builder) and have some of Dicks drawings for Summer Salt, design # 54 dated 21 May 1984. I have encountered many of the problems you have. When purchased, I had to repair the aka (beam) ends. The forestay failed suddenly and the mast came down. Harken technical rep was very helpful in advising me on how to rebuilding the furler extrusion assembly. He stated the stay upper swage is subject to torsion and bidirectional bending especially on a rotating mast, and should be replaced frequently. I suspect mine was original. Since the swage is hidden inside the extrusion, it goes unseen and uninspected. I have many design improvements and drawings that I would be happy to share. I am in the process of rebuilding the mast base to change to a tip up arrangement. The Bill Murphy designed gin pole arrangement scared me witless, although he claimed it worked very well. Something about a screwed together 2x4 column that was on the verge of buckling is unnerving. The new mast base arrangement combines the functions of tip up to raise the mast, internal halyards, turning blocks that lead halyards to Lewmar Clutches, and a colligio made ball for mast rotation. Where do you live? Where do you sail Sparky? Please contact me directly at dclayman@nycap.rr.com