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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Ganzi

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About Ganzi

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    Long Island Sound
  1. Slightly Obscure But Very Helpful

    Tying to dock, specially single-handed: use a single line, attached at the center of the boat, and tie abreast. Then, take care of the usual bow and stern lines and spring and whaterver. Works all the time. I dont know why it is not more popular - maybe because it looks like something only a total beginer would do? Merci Voiles etVoilers !
  2. Deep vs. shallow keel

    regarding the supposed course stability of long keels....designer Michel Joubert used to explain that they dont have more course stability... it's just that they are slower, hence take longer to deviate....
  3. Jesus shackle

    Amati, my setup is like what you are showing here, but instead of lashing, I use a maillon rapide Wichard (the pear-shaped variety). They are extremely strong and don't get unlocked. The mast rotates well with this setup, and I find the metal/metal assembly more reassuring. Trimaran, 47ft mast-same boat as Razr.
  4. Sailing with running backstays

    Hoppy, I'd say your are correct on all 3. 1- yes - fat head main, but not only: I think backstays were common on IOR boats or even older stuff with wooden mast- I believe that the criteria is whether you have something directly opposite the forestay. So, for 7/8 3/4 forestays etc... backstay mandatory, close hauled and specially in heavy weather. 2 critical I believe either upwind in heavy sea, unless you have reef #1 in main ? or downwind with a spinnaeker at forestay level. And obviously when gybing; you will find that the main does act as à backstay, at least in preventing the mast form collapsing forwards. 3 handling - ( singlehanded). tacking,easy: you have both backstays on (leeward a bit loose) tack, main goes, take care of génois, make sure the windward backstay locked, release the leeward. No sweat. gybing...hmmmm...never found the absolute safe way. If your leeward backstay is tight the main can't ease and will send you upwind (and usually of course when you finally manage to ease, it won't because the backstay is stuck in the batten pocket). After a few months practice you find the sweet spot ... on the early minis there was a pair of low backstays (first speaker level, with they own tackle) that were meant to provide some degree of security. But i love running backstays. They always come with interesting boats ( or the other way round).
  5. Performance cruising composites. How to choose?

    Before betting on building relationship with the sailmaker...Ask yourself, does the sailmaker wants a relationship with you ? If you are the average boat owner you won't be anything to him. Yes, he wants to make the sale, but even in good faith he will not have means or incentives to pamper you afterwards. Personally I would go the other way, making sure the deal is a one-off thing - that I will get the sails right, and that I can wave goodbye to the supplier and be happy with my gear, and free. I figure this out as I went through the process. Bought form a large sailmaker, very professional, a couple of mistakes here and there that they graciously corrected... but it was clear that with my 20k budget I was not someone who had significance - and it was not personal. You might object that a smaller loft would be more into the relationship....I doubt it. From the contacts I had with the smaller lofts, they were even more preoccupied with the sale, and once delivered, would have less means to care for the "relationship".
  6. Downwind in a Lagoon 440

    I confirm, a sym spi without pole works very, very well on a cat (in my case it was on a Tobago35). Enables to sail deep, very stable, very hard to mess up and easy to control - as Zonkers indicates: 2ble sheets and 2ble guys. Just add a tweaked line to control the clew position and get a nice shape (and a 20% traction bonus). Of course your typical owner of Gunboat or HH wouldn't be considering this, but by the time he crosses back from his super-hot angle, you will still be probably ahead...even more so on long courses.
  7. jfa 54 with finot conq swing keel

    Mfw, I would think that the design is pretty solid, Finot/Conq have been perfecting this keel design since the 80s, currently chantier Structures makes the Pogo with those keels e.g. Pogo 50.
  8. calling it

    Back to Joyon: after arriving in NYC (for the crewed East/W race) he took a 2 day rest and just left -like that - for the record. THIS I like. I remember reading about last time he went for the same, he grabbed a guy from the dock and asked him to provision some food (later commenting that they had to endure Ukrainian food cause the guy happened to be Ukrainian).... something like that. Nice contrast to all those programs that take themselves so seriously and try to evacuate the risk.
  9. Driving the West Coast of France - Thoughts

    I agree with comments above; and if you fly to Nantes from US, you have to factor jet-lag; I would head to La Rochelle and hang around 1 or even 2 days there, and head up to La Trinité/Lorient.
  10. Leeboard split - quick fix realistic ?

    So-it worked. 3 full days sailing with the family instead of being docked and hanging in the phone with a shipyard. I made mistakes that will probably bite back: 1) I should have allocated 2 or 3 days to really rincé the saltwater-I discovered at last minute that the leeboard is holllow, meaning that there was more invasion than I thought - and 2) and I should have clamped from outside in, to push the resin inside the board, instead of outside. 3) at the extremities were tiny cracks where I could not get the resin to prenetrate, filled with 5200 instead.... But the main thing really, Is that by taking the matter in my own hands, I got the liberty of actually sailing - not being dépendant on a third party (apart from the free and instantaneous advice that I got here on SA).
  11. I would also recommend a trimaran. You might find alternatives to Farriers in Europe, but in your price range, maybe not many actual opportunities....You will be a bit tight with 4 people, but with a pop-up tent ont the trampolines, it works. Regarding Canaries, it can be rough.... but the bigger problem is that you won't have the carrying capacity for 4 persons. 2 max, probably. Good luck,
  12. Leeboard split - quick fix realistic ?

    Thks guys, its done, lets go out and see if it holds !!
  13. I found out today that the trailing edges of my 34 ft trimaran's leeboard are separating - the leeboard is made of 2 vertical laminated halves with foam in the middle, and there is a 2 ft fissure from the bottom up (the leeboard is about 6 ft total). Fissure is about 3/4 inch wide at max. The leading edge is fine (last week I hit a log at good speed, I was expecting the leading edge damaged, not trailing edge, but anyway, not sure it is even related). The crack seems recent (clean, still smells of polyester resin) and the inside of the leeboard is probably quite dry (when I am docked, I keep the board up). I don't want to cut short my sailing season. My instinct is to get quick fix now and re-asses in October. The plan is to let the board dry 24 hours till tomorrow, fill the crack with epoxy, let it cure 1 day in clamps - and go sailing this Saturday... Would that work ? I am planning to use Gougeon's G/flex - the guide say it bonds in high humidity "when applied with specific techniques". What are those techniques ? Is bonding requiring more time in humid conditions, or is it just function of temperature ? Thks
  14. Dogbones

    Used them on halyard - perfect - and now on jib sheet : I was wondering if it would shake loose, and it didn't so far (1 summer). One danger might be to assume that your novice crew will know how to set it properly.