Ganzi

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About Ganzi

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  1. Ganzi

    Taming a nervous NKE auto pilot

    Geert, Not sure this helps (directly) but I have seemingly the same problem - except that my pilot is a Raymarine EV 100. In light air (or when motoring)it make incessant and wide corrections, whereas In normal conditions (chop or waves, speed > 4kts), it corrects every 20 secs or so, as I expect. Drives me nuts, and it sounds like the pilot will safe-destroy ! My diagnosis at this point is that the pilot reacts to very minute heel movements. I sail a trimaran, and on completely flat sea and very light wind,, the boat is balanced - litterally - on the main hull, so it keeps rocking ever so slightly, nearly imperceptibly, and it seems that this triggers the crazy behavior. I did mange to calm it down a bit through tuning to extreme values, but this is not satisfactory as it alters the reponse in normal conditions, and it clearly does not address the root of the problem anyway. This is my 4th year with this equipment, I do remember it getting slightly « nervous » in those conditions, but this year it really become totally crazy, so it might be degenerative, which would indicate that it is due to hardware and not to Parameters. The EV100 has a 3 axis compass + 3 axis gyro + accelerometer, says the brochure. Certainly not as sophisticated as NKE but maybe similar enough for us to understand what going on ? I am curious to hear how your story ends. As for myself I might open the discussion with Raymarine, after having confrimed more of the symptoms.
  2. Ganzi

    The new revolution in spinnakers

    Yes - some boats did use a kite for jury rig- eg a racing 50 ft tri sailed from Madeira to Canaria with a kite after losing its mast according to the article on N VdK. I remember talks of having kites on liferafts, to set them in « active survival posture ».
  3. Ganzi

    The new revolution in spinnakers

    Not new indeed.. 1995, Nicole van de Kerchove. Transatlantic, powered with a kite. (pic doesnt shows the whole rig).
  4. thks all, tiller needs to flip up when I remove the cassette (which I do as soon as the boat strays docked for some time). so, no permanent bonding of the axis. titanium, I dont have. closing the flanges + shims, yes but no, as it would be in the way of the pin. bushings ... Got some nylon bushings today from hardware store, and then looked at this interestign chart - thks Diamond Jim - and now it seems that SS will actually have good bonding (wat’s nylon on this chart ? PPE ?) Still, I think I ll go this way - if it fails I wont have to destroy the flanges to replace them ...
  5. I am rebuilding the 2 flanges/cheeks that attach the tiller to my cassette rudder. They are made of carbon fiber. The helm is attached to those flanges with bolts, and the corresponding holes in the flanges became oval (this cassette has an history of abuse, dont ask). I would like to reposition precisely those holes and make sure that they stay true The flanges are not very thick - 5 mms maybe - so I am thinking of inserting a stainless steel washer in the middle of the laminate (therefore they will be sealed with carbon on both sides when I am finished). Any reason not to do that ? Better solutions ? I thought of G10 1/4 inch but it seems much more work to integrate in cleanly in the schedule. thks
  6. Ganzi

    Self steering trimaran

    if you want responsive you have to go for electric pilot. Important factor for multi is the quality of the compass sensor, and for this you want to get an unit with a gyrocompass. I have a R.aymarine evo 100 on my 34 ft tri and it works great (wind mode and compass mode). Yes, NKE is more robust but unless you do oceanic passages I dont think you need this extra quality - better get a second drive unit as a spare, or maybe a drop-in replacemnt like MultiThom’s kit. By the way some long time ago I sailed in your nice country from the Lofoten to DK in a 24 fr sloop, with a Navix windvane - no autopilot, good memories, but nowdays, technology has changed and I would 100% do it with an autopilot+solar panel. And a Tiller clutch.
  7. Yes shock cord. I use it with a ratchet block. And i see you are using one of those halayrd shackles...
  8. Moppie,, I have/ had same recurrent issue when I furl my screecher (meaning, every time I tack). Over time I got it to work most of times by 1) good halyard tension 2) I extend and retract my furler along my 5 ft pole. To avoid the drum rotating I clip it to a loop of mesh - not rope - that slides on the pole. The drawback is that the mesh has much more friction than a rope loop, but it keeps the drum well in line. 3) I found that to prevent the “hoof” in the middle, the angle of the sheet is crucial (as mentioned above by Bad Andy & al.). So, as I am single handed, the process is: move car forward, trigger the pilot to tack, uncleat the sheet leaving one wrap, pull the continuous line both hands, once on new tack, pull the new sheet with 1 hand while easing the furler line with the other to speed up. Lots of cursing and panting every time. Next season I might improve on this by replacing the mesh loop by a rope loop, but using a Wichard halyard shackle to keep the drum in line.
  9. Ganzi

    Raymarine EV-100 tiller pilot

    I have one since 3 years to steer my 34 ft trimaran (and I do quite a lot of S-H). No complaint, I find it well designed, easy to install, good power, generally competent at steering including in wind mode.. I can see where a very demanding use would challenge it (eg, ram plug, seems to need about 15’ to optimize steering, lack of fine-tuning parameters ...) but for my recreational racing its good value.
  10. france, Uk, ireland, spain, portugal, iceland,, norway, denmark, germany, holland, croatia, greece, italy. Never have been asked for a licence. Either on own boat or on rented boat. Maybe it changed lasr 10 years but unlikely, I agree with Wess - if its a foreign flag you are transiting and local authorities wont try to enforce local rules on you. I think that proof of ownership/ paid VAT and Insurance certificate are much more likely to interest the authorities.
  11. The humble tillerclutch is the only one device that I would mention. I have used many other devices - Navik, Atoms, Plastimo At 50, raymarine St2000, Evo 100...they all have their limitations and in the end we adapt the boat trajectory to what they can handle. But the Tillerclutch, damn- I really dont know how to sail without it anymore.
  12. Ncik, yes your sketch is correct and indeed, I wonder why the small bulkhead is not meeting is reciprocal on starboard. The picture shows a portion of the port hull that is underneath the V-berth- so basically about 1/3 of boat form the bow (34 ft trimaran). About 2ft aft (left, on the pic) of the pipes, is the mast bulkehaed and other structures related to the beams-so, very strong. I can see why the designer wanted to keep it light consider that a transversal flex wouldn’t be an issue in this front section. SloopJohnB, about why - I had another marginal failure on the same trip that caused waterstay tension to change suddenly and this crack might be a repercussion. Not on the sense that the boat was overwhelmed, just in the small-thing-leading-to-another-one sense.
  13. I sure do have a nice set of plugs. I also pretend not to have noticed that the thru-hulls have ridges inside that make the plugs unusable.
  14. The pic gives the wrong impression: there is no core in the bottom. DrewR, you guessed right, the surveyor recommneded that I install valves but I opted to keep it simple. I ll give it a go in 2 weeks. I expect the most delicate part to be where the “tabbing “ occurs. Lets see...
  15. Well spotted Razr, its superficial but this winter I ll have to do something in the vicinty of all that (probably adding a Omega) and I will put this level. Moonduster, well yes those are seacocks... not a tank on the other side, just the open ocean ! (I changed those thru-hulls last winter, juat for peace of mind). Alcatraz, yes I think thats what it is - a crack along the filler edge.