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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

_dinsdale_

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About _dinsdale_

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    Pittwater, Sydney
  1. I have this problem sometimes when sailing close to the wind. I "think" the boom lines up perfectly between the mast head transmitter and the receiver on the binnacle so blocks the signal, but not every time. Any other point of sail doesn't cause this problem. Very occasionally the problem arises when the full cockpit bimini is open, again I'm assuming that it (its metal hoops most likely) interferes with the signal from the top of the mast. Fixes itself once the bimini is put away.
  2. Interesting and informative post. Thanks!
  3. You may not need a new one. Unbolt it and take it to an auto electrical shop. They'll test it for you and may be able to rebuild it. Since they don't work in the marine industry they may not know about the 500% markup on all things boat related . This has already been rebuilt once...lasted 2 years. I'm buying a new one.
  4. UPDATE: Went from bad to worse. No cranking. Even with healthy 2 house and 1 start batteries in the circuit... just clicking. Plenty of power triggering the solenoid but the actual starter engine won't turn. Time for a new starter motor.
  5. Yes it is... but also need someone else with me to crank the engine while I measure stuff. Until I can find a friend, I'm stuck with less reliable ways to hunt the problem down. Mostly by way of trial and error.... so far it's all error: bypassing the battery switch made no difference.
  6. Okay thanks all.
  7. If I cut or drill my anodised aluminium fittings eg toe rail, do I need to treat/ paint it somehow to stop corrosion?
  8. Okay well looks like the ground is okay. Tomorrow I'm going to try bypassing the starter battery switch to see if it is the weak link.
  9. Thanks all for the advice. Putting it all together I'm pretty sure this isn't a panel to solonoid problem... I can crank (slowly) so the solonoid must be engaged. So I'm going looking for a bad starter-engine earth... or maybe its the starter motor which was re wound about 2 years ago. I'll re port back. Cheers Dins
  10. SYMPTOMS: For a year now the engine cranks weakly on and off, sometimes fine sometimes not... but until recently always starts. Always cranks well (and noticably better) when I switch in the house bank as well. Last week (after two weeks without a start) I HAD to switch the house bank in to get the engine to turn fast enough to start for the first time. THE MARINE ELECTRICIAN SAID: He couldn't find anything wrong! Both start battery and house bank are in really good shape. The charging systems (both alternator and solar) are working as expected. The voltage drop from the start battery to the starter motor is well within range of normal. He even replaced the start battery with a new battery and no improvement. Tested the battery switches (low quality) and no issue could be found, BUT he did say this could be the area to watch. If the problem occurs "jiggle" the switch to see if this improves the result.. but it's a (professional) guess. THE SYSTEM: Yanmar 3GM30F Start Battery 75AHs AGM House Bank 105AH x 2 Sealed lead /acid. The boat lives on a swing mooring so no mains power. The boat gets used a lot, every weekend during summer and every second weekend during winter. Any thoughts really appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  11. I already have this on the luff cringles and it works well but as you say, expensive. 33ft sloop.
  12. Thanks for taking the time to offer up all these ideas.
  13. Ok thanks. Didn't know about the L-36 site...looks to be full of goodies, thanks.
  14. Sounds like a good (and cheap) solution but a question: Is exposing the core the UV a problem?... it is spectra. Do you know what type of rope it is (endura braid, etc)? Most spectra out there will be uv stable, lots of the manufacturers have their own proprietary coatings they add to protect the core when stripped. I'm curious what kind of boat you have. Single line reefing can be a pain in the ass to set up, especially on a main sail big enough to need 10mm dyneema double braid reef lines. I don't know the brand of spectra. The rigger who setup the single-line system put in the 10mm which does seem like over-kill BUT it is easy on the hands and suits the clutches and winches... though they will work with 8mm. The system works very well when reefing, quick and safe (no one has to leave the cockpit) I have marks on the halyard where to drop the sail to for both reefs then just nip the reefing lines up quickly. Can do it in a couple of seconds after only a short point up into the breeze. My boat is a 33ft Sloop, Gib Sea 33.