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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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  • Location
    Western Long Island Sound
  • Interests
    Distance racing.
  1. I just ran through this process (sock, or the all-to-expensive fuller) with my 37 foot IOR boat I use for DH and SH racing. I have a code 0 ( ~ 620 SF in size) with an vectran luff rope to carry the load so I can wind it on pretty tight. I attach it to the anchor/stem head fitting (its all one piece and welded) via a snap shackle bolted to the stem head fitting. If the stem head was not welded I would just run a short turnbuckle setup from the stem head bolt on the bow up to a anchor roller to carry the load. Good thing about an IOR boat is a large J, not sure a sprit is needed and it just dings your rating and creates a lot of clutter up front. MY sail tacks right down inside the pulpit. Likewise I don't use a sock as it just adds complication. I have spin sheets on both sides (with twinges) but only attach one sheet to the asym one at a time, except just before the jibe. Just before jibing I walk the lazy sheet around the front of the boat, in front of the asym, not inside, and walk it back and connect it to clew. Initiate the jibe and unhook the working sheet and let the asym float out and in front of the boat and crank it back in. To drop I just sit at the shrouds, have enough friction on the halyard to slow the drop (just loop it on a fixture or two within reach) with the bag in my lap and pull the sail right into the bag. I then walk to the bow stuffing the sail into the bag - all set for next hoist. I've done this on a number of point to point races SH sailing against fully crewed boats. You do need a good AP - I have a Pelagic running a below deck Raymarine linear drive (Check out Pelagic, Brian make a really good product and provides great support). For an IOR boat this is a killer sail for racing and closes that 45-90 degree gap. I have a .6 symmetric for running. Looking to add and A2-3 (80ish to 135 degrees) so I don't need to hassle with my 1.5 oz sym for reaching. I don't fly this sail in anything more than gets me fully powered up (15-18 degree heel). After that I pop the jib and do the takedown noted above. If you get caught in a line squall run off, blow the tack and haul the asym down behind the sail. I actually carry a 15-20 foot length line with a carabineer to do a letter box drop if I get caught out. Keep it simple
  2. Bermuda 1-2 2017

    Anyone have any idea why this race was not covered on the main SA site?
  3. Want to install an autopilot

    Data on auto pilot install is hard to come by. I set up a solid system for low cost by sourcing parts from various venders and doing my own work. Check out Pelagic APs, can be had for sub $800 and are battle tested in numerous rides in the transpacific. Brian, the owner of Pelagic is a long time short handed sailor tired of the off the shelf shit, and the high cost of quality product. Did I mention he's an electrical engineer. To his package I added a ray marine linear drive type 2 (good to 33,000#) actuator for my 12,600# boat (1982 Pearson 37 - a bit IORish in design). I went one size up on the actuator - bucket list is a Bermuda 1-2. Found it used for ~$1k. Attached via an Edson tiller arm below deck for ~$650. Hardest part is making a bulkhead below deck in the tight space. Suggestion is to add a flying buttress from the bulkhead to the cockpit for piece of mind as these units are really powerful- would hate to tear the bulkhead out to the hull.....at 2 am in really bad conditions! All in I'm around $2,700 for a really solid, robust system. Added benefit is I can plug in any NMEA0183 of 2000 instruments and they will work. If not I call Brian and he will send me the data strings to download into the system. Ray marine needs all ray stuff to interface with, or add in another costly "converter black box" with access to software downloads via a high end ray chart plotter only. The same system from ray with all the required "upgrades" was well in excess of $7k if installed via DIY. Besides, dealing with ray marine is a nightmare. Dealing with Brian is great. Can't speak to any other AP lines but early research suggested comparable run around for what it's worth. I'm moderately handy with rudimentary understanding of electronics. I asked a lot of questions of Edson, Brian, West system, and got great help. A picture tells a thousand words. Skype brings the tech virtually to your project. Working on the Solent stay install now.
  4. Always loved the Tartan 30. Great boats.
  5. Take a look at Webb Chiles early books (on line in PDF). He did 4 solo circumnavigation in three different production IOR boats. iOR boats will get in trouble if overcanvassed as will any boat. most of the production boats from the mid-late 70's to the IOR demise are solid all around performers. To wipe them out you really need to be pushing them. Check out Stan Honeys ideas on short handed spinnaker work which work well for displacement boats.
  6. Maximum alternator size

    Take a look at Sterling alternator to battery charger. A Sterling AP13012 should solve the problem while not requiring a major rebuild on the charging system. Just makes it work "smarter".
  7. too much?

    The big issue is ratings are based on w/l. As a result a result many boats don't rate well on reaches so they figure "why bother". This is a major issue at our club. Solution - good distance ratings so boats like (as an example) production IOR hulls can race competitively in these events. my boat a 1982 Pearson 37 is a good w/l boat at 105 to 108, just can't hang in there on a reach when waterline comes into play. I had my rating fairly done for distance rating but the new committee came back and dinged my rating stating - no one else had a higher distance rating than w/l. In 10 years of racing we never won a distance race. Now we don't rally have an incentive to race.
  8. Transitioning from racing to cruising/low key racing

    Problem with the Schock, J, Express etc. is the rating a sub 80 PHRF means you're in a fast crowd (for old boats)....which means you'll want to ramp it up and get all competitive again and blow the budget just to keep up with the newer (old) boats. There is an option - stay in the lower campaigning cost >100 PHRF. A great boat for that is the Pearson 37 (the 1982-1985 version). It does everything well but nothing outstanding. A great all around boat that is much faster than the C&C 35 III or the Bene First 345. PHRF from 102 -108 w/l. Lots of room, low cost, solid builder rep (cored hull so its moderate displacement at 12.6K lbs). Although an IOR based design and the hot racer/cruiser for its day it came out so late, just prior to the J35 intro, that these well kitted out boats were dropped for the J35. As such, many were not heavily raced so not all worn out. They sail really well, good manners in heavy air - even downwind - Just back off a bit when you get that heavy-feeling slow roll. You can find good ones for sub $40K. I've been racing mine with a AP 155 laminate, a pentax #3, # 4 Dacron, Dacron main, and two symmetric chutes (.6 and 1.5) with plenty of pickle dishes to show for it. For cruising we change to an old #2 on the RF. The double pilot berths make this a great distance racing boat. Only thing this boat lacks is an anchor well for cruising. Working the boat up for DH racing and pulling off spin jibes with 2 people on w/l courses (keep the lazy sheets/guys but go to end-for end on the pole).
  9. I think you are looking for the Edson tiller arm extension. I just bought one from Edson Marine for ~ $500. Easy install but you have to provide Edson with the bore of the rudder post to within .003 of an inch - easy to do with a good caliper for that size. FYI - Edson charges extra for oversize rudder post - it cost me another $150 or so for the machining. Turn time is around 4-5 days from submitting the order. You will need to get and fill out the "Autopilot Tiller Arm Data Sheet" from the Edson web site to show the bore size, location of the rudder post key and a few other items so Edson can make one that fits exactly.