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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

FrankC

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About FrankC

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    Washington
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    sailing
  1. RS700 Newbie Video

    DTA, The new season on 18footersTV is now running on Youtube and is highly recommended. You can learn a lot about skiff sailing/racing watching that fleet, and listening carefully to the excellent commentary. Plus on big days in Syndey Harbor there is a lot of carnage that is fun to watch.
  2. RS700 Newbie Video

    I had many similar experiences until I figured out the ballet of launching and landing. One launch site had a concrete seawall and onshore wind. While coming in hot on a broad reach I had to douse the kite, pull the center board, pull the rudder and turn drastically into the wind, jump off the rack and catch the boat before hitting the wall at speed As in most skiff activities, pull the boards while standing to get leverage. Give yourself plenty of time to pull the centerboard (before running aground). The boat can coast for a bit with just the rudder, but it is unstable without the centerboard, so pay attention to balancing your weight in the middle of the boat. Also, you were asking for trouble by letting go of the tiller extension. At least you did not capsize (and end up with a mast full of mud or sand) or ding your boards. Cheers,
  3. RS700 Newbie Video

    Sailing a skiff in those conditions is tough and is a constant in and out game. It is frustrating as 5 is not enough to get on the racks probably, but 15 is. Still, if you move forward and sail block to block you can offset the tendency to capsize to windward. At 5 knots I would be as far forward as I can get, trapping very high off the hull, sheeted in completely, and have my knees bent. At 15 I would be flat on the rack, straight legs, probably have the trap elastic between my feet, and be trapping low enough to cleat the main that is fully sheeted. So, switching back and forth between those positions is challenging. In regard to capsize recovery, you want to get to the point where as the sail is coming up, you are stepping/climbing into the boat. The timing is such that when the boat is completely up, you are already standing/sitting on the deck, working the sheet and tiller to get planing. It is a smooth movement not a hurdle. The best way is to do this between the racks and hull, though some go over the rack. Body size should not make a difference as Stenhouse was a multiple MPS world champion (and former olympic class Finn sailor, i.e. big boy). When you do a seal entry, the boat is already up, and therefore more inclined to (at best) go into irons or (at worst) capsize again.
  4. RS700 Newbie Video

    Looking good DTA. You are making great progress. Here are a couple tips to get you to the next level of progression: 1. It is great that you are now standing and putting weight on the trap. However, you will be so much more comfortable trapping off of the rack. The only time I am trapping off the deck is under 8 knots. From the rack, you can often just bend at the knees in lulls, rather than having to come into the boat, which is awkward and slow. Plus... 2. It looks like you are in pretty light breeze, so you might consider standing in front of the trapeze elastic rather than behind it. This will keep the boat better balanced. Remember that the less powered up you are (on the beat), the further toward the bow of the boat you move. 3. The two capsizes you showed in the video were to windward, which means you ran out of power and pulled the boat on top of yourself. I noticed you are pretty sheeted out most of the time. Your goal should be to sail as close to block-to-block on the beat as you can, easing only in gusts to keep the boat flat. Moving toward the bow and sheeting in more will prevent a lot of the windward capsizing. 4. The stern entry post capsize recovery works OK in light breeze, but it really puts you in an awkward position when the breeze is on. In stronger breeze, you want to get the boat moving as quickly as possible after a capsize recovery, because that is when it is most stable. Coming over the side (over the rack or between the rack and deck) puts you in the best position to do that. Try not to get in the habit of the "seal entry" now, as it will make life harder later. Cheers,
  5. Countdown to an RS700

    DTA, RE downwind capsizes. First, if you think you are going to capsize (and you get a feel for this), try to get the kite to fly out before hitting the water. The best way I can describe this is to let the kite fill while controlling the kite sheet. This often prevents tangles around the forestay and makes it easier to douse. Immediately after hitting the water, swim around to the deck, uncleat the kite halyard and start pulling like hell on the retrieval line while you are in the water. Sometimes I will even put my foot on the deck to get extra leverage while dousing. After dousing, I also try to remember to uncleat the main, which makes righting easier. Dousing the kite should be your number one priority, do not worry about righting the boat. If you are fast, you can do this before the boat turtles. If you cannot, then I swim back to the board, pull on it to get the mainsail on the surface, and then swim back to the deck to continue dousing. I find that trying to douse while standing on the centerboard is pretty hard to do as you are leaning over the rack and have little leverage. The longer you wait to douse, the more potential issues you will have. Once the kite is doused, it does not matter if the boat turtles. Take your time to swim back around to the board, climb up on it, catch your breath (sometimes I will sit on the board and relax for a few minutes), and then start righting the boat. When I was learning to gybe, and experiencing countless capsizes, I would finish my sessions by sailing on the same gybe for as long as I could, drop the kite, and then sail back upwind. Doing laps like this gives you good practice hoisting and dropping (also critical skills to learn), without the exhausting dw capsizing associated with learning to gybe. It is also a lot of fun. Once you get sailing under the kite on the trapeze, I think you will find that the boat is much easier to sail downwind than a Laser or Aero. It is super stable without the constant threat of death rolling. Sailing a skiff downwind without the kite is like sailing a Laser on steroids, way unstable. It is weird, but under the kite you will be going way faster than it seems. It is also easier to sail downwind with more breeze. 5 knots is really not enough to fill the kite, so you will be fighting balancing the boat and the kite. 10-15 knots is perfect and you will experience what I described above. So, go for it! Glad you have embraced the sense of adventure required to sail a skiff. From sacrifice comes bliss.
  6. Countdown to an RS700

    Hey DTA, don't be too hard on yourself. You are doing great. It will probably take 2 seasons of consistent sailing to feel like you have tamed the beast. Have you tried sailing under the spinny yet? That's when the real fun starts.
  7. RS700 Newbie Video

    Some other capsize recovery tricks: Immediately after you capsize, pull in the main all the way and cleat it. This will keep the boat from turtling. Also, pull the vang/gnav on as much as you can while standing on the centerboard. This will flatten the sail so it does not fill with water, making the boat easier to right.
  8. RS700 Newbie Video

    Totally agree with Kurio and GBR. Sailing with the main uncleated while learning gives you a lot more control and a better feel for the subtle changes in sheet tension needed to get the boat on a plane, depower, maximize vmg, etc. It also gets your arms in great shape. Recovering over the side of the boat (I go in between the gunnel and racks on the MPS) puts you in the best position to get the boat planing as quickly as possible after a capsize, and planing is stable. If you try the seal entry in any kind of breeze, you will be dealing with multiple exhausting capsizes. Your harness hook will also mess up your gelcoat or worse. Timing is also vital, and I get back into the boat as it is coming up, never after it is already back up. Finally, you should be standing (either on the gunnel or the rack) while sailing, not sitting down. If you were standing and dropped the main, there is a chance you could recover without capsizing by quickly stepping into the middle of the boat. No chance for this if you are sitting.
  9. RS700 Newbie Video

    I concede the throne, Kurio99. Although, I did capsize on Friday. Rear foot got stuck in the strap on a jibe. It was a glorious run until it all went tits up though. I agree with Doug that you should not be flopping around out there steering and shifting weight in response to the wind. Skiff sailing is much more subtle. Upwind, my initial response to a gust is to flatten out my body more toward to water surface. If I am already trapping flat-out, then I slide back a bit on the rack (slightly back from the trap elastic). Last response is to ease the mainsheet slightly if the boat is still not flat. When I am going through this sequence more than I want (or see that I will), I start to lower myself on the trapline. In a lull, I will slide forward on the rack until I am at the very front. If I am still heeling to windward, I will bend at the knees and bring my weight in toward the center of the boat at little at a time until sailing flat again (this is assuming the main is block to block already). If this is happening more than I want, then I will raise myself on the trap line. So, as I said before, there is a constant interplay between these three variables. This is just how I do it. I know other MPS sailors that use the trapline adjuster more frequently. The only WRONG way is when the boat is not dead flat in the water. Note I have not mentioned the rudder as it is not really a big part of the equation upwind, as Dough aluded to. I keep a very light touch on the tiller. Lots of good advice in this thread, keep it coming.
  10. RS700 Newbie Video

    I hear ya about the capsizes. Not to toot my own horn, but I am the king of capsizes. I think I hold the unofficial world record in skiff capsizing. My record for shortest distance sailed before capsizing is 100 feet. I have been rescued by the sherrif from the middle of the river. All pretty humbling, but all part of the process. I also came from the Laser world, and I think you almost have to forget everything you learned there. The Laser is a boat that needs to be physically dominated to sail efficiently. You need to hike and torque your ass off. The skiff on the other hand wants to sail itself. You just need to put yourself in the right position to allow it to do that. While the Laser responds to power, the skiff responds to agility and nimble speed. Do everything fast, but do not rush. If you are a second slow, you are swimming. The three main components for boat control are sail trim, body trim on the rack, and body trim on the wire. It is kind of like a three legged stool. If any of those three legs is out of whack, then you are unstable and likely to capsize. However, when you have all three working together, the boat sails itself and it is effortless magic. You will be amazed at how moving your body a few inches forward or back on the rack, or up/down on the wire, makes a difference in how the boat responds. When you get to the point where you are adjusting those three variables on the fly without thinking, then that's when the fun starts.
  11. RS700 Newbie Video

    Hey DTA, nice shiny new skiff. Congrats. Once you learn, you will never look back. I have an MPS and the learning curve was steep, but cannot imagine sailing anything else. Nothing beats being out on the wing, fully trapped, flying under the kite. In the video, why are you not hooked into the trap? Learning to be comfortable in the trapeze is the first most important skill to learn. Also, why are you sitting in the boat? I never sit in my skiff (unless resting). These boats are way easier to control if you are on your feet and hooked in. You mentioned being comfortable in 15 knots. I suggest only sailing the boat in 8 (min) to 12 (max) knots until you can sail standing (it is OK to sit on the racks between tacks/jibes, but I find it easier to go rack to rack), and are reasonably competent in the maneuvers (host, drop, tack, jibe). Start by trapping off the gunwale, and then learn to use the racks. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers, Frank.
  12. Musto Skiff

    Ericrayl, I launch from the boat park in Cascade Locks, OR. I moore my boats in the CGRA cage all summer. Come on down this summer for some river blasting.
  13. Musto Skiff

    No support boat, no mast float, just a sense of adventure. We launch downwind and can go for miles, so it is a long upwind slog back to the beach. Sometimes I sail around with my friend and his Laser, sometimes I sail solo. Last summer I spent two hours mostly turtled in the main channel with my kite inexorably wrapped around the forestay. Stuff happens and you learn to deal with it. It is all in the game with high performance boats. However, for the first 6-8 months, I only sailed in 5-10 knots. These are good conditions to learn the boat handling you need. I then slowly built up to bigger conditions, picking my days according to my ability and energy level. The MPS is a all about doing the maneuvers quickly, but not rushing. If you are a second late, you are swimming. So it is important to have brief focused training sessions in the beginning. I have sailed the boat a lot and hard in the last two years, and last summer was the first maintenance issues I have had. I replaced a bolt in the rudder stock and replaced the main halyard. It is a really well built boat.
  14. Musto Skiff

    I have owned a MPS for 2 years. Switching from a Laser to the MPS was one of the hardest things I have done, and one of the best things that I have done. The learning curve is very steep. Prepare for a lot of swimming, a lot of exhausting capsize recoveries, and a rush of adrenaline when you tame the beast enough to get a ride. Downwind is a sublime experience. Fully trapped on the racks under spinnaker is my happy place. Upwind is much less physical than a Laser and actually fun and super fast if you get the angle right. I sail in the Columbia River Gorge, where typical windspeeds in the summer approach 20 knots almost everyday. After two years, my comfort zone is now about 18 knots, although I have been out in 25. We do not have waves, but we get 3-4 foot chop. The MPS just glides over these. There is a small west coast fleet that joins with the Swift Solos for a yearly regatta, but not much else in the USA. This boat is a huge challenge with a huge reward for those willing to take the plunge. Glad to answer any questions that I can.