Lost in Translation

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    Atlanta, GA

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  1. Lost in Translation

    To Foil or not to Foil, that is the question

    Dyneema bungie is the way to go. Doesn't break and three runs under tramp should be sufficient. I think I paid $20 for mine and have used it to pull myself back to the boat no problem. Well worth it! I personally am not a fan of the ball system for trapeze and haven't seen them be more reliable or safer, but that is personal preference. I am a big fan of inspecting and maintaining trap systems to make sure they are reliable. A worn line or other failure can break a tiller or much worse. A friend of mine who used to sail on the ocean on his A used a carabiner tied to his harness that he could clip on the mainsheet / traveler. I tried it and it felt awkward and there could be some downsides, but it did stop the possibility of separation. I have been on turtled larger cats and that comes with issues too like daggerboards and other gear disappearing. I have seen A sails where the mast had been in the bottom mud and the sail now stained. It can happen and the mast can survive,.
  2. Lost in Translation

    Vakaros

    My Atlas has been exposed on all sides on a mount in front of the mast in very heavy sideways rain and 45 knots winds and been fine so far. I don't think I've stuffed it into a wave yet, but not 100% sure. I got mine fairly recently.
  3. Lost in Translation

    To Foil or not to Foil, that is the question

    Flying higher is faster as it substantially reduces drag. You want to be as high as you can be but not come off the foils and not slide sideways too much. You can control a lot by your body position as well. Farther back and fly higher. It's a fun game. Glenn talks in his latest video about a goal of being around or just above the knuckle of the board as a general goal. Arno has a good explanation from years ago here: https://www.catsailingnews.com/2016/08/a-class-dutch-nats-hellecat-2016-pj.html
  4. Lost in Translation

    To Foil or not to Foil, that is the question

    Most of the foilers wear a helmet when it is foiling weather. If it is a light day with little to no foiling, I personally like to wear a hat as it is not as hot and provides more sun protection. Get a helmet made for sailing. I tried a cheaper one at first from REI for paddling and it didn't work for me.
  5. Lost in Translation

    To Foil or not to Foil, that is the question

    Those were probably the best foiling boats of that era. Great boat. I imagine you can get some C's in too but am not positive as those Z's come with assymetric daggerboard cases I believe. Hope it goes well and you get it!
  6. Lost in Translation

    To Foil or not to Foil, that is the question

    I have owned the 50, 40, and 45 cm board placement for the AD3. And the 80 or 90 or whatever is what on the early foiling boats. I agree with Rawhide that all of the AD3's are nice. In North America, I don't think there are any 60 cm back AD3's. If you find one you like, Mookie, get it. The boats have been very modular with new boards and rudders relatively easy to install if desired. You could even get an older eXploder and would recommend one with Z10 or newer daggerboards as those can be swapped with newer boards or C boards easily if you like. Another nice, used buy for classic / foiler would be an original DNA F1. Each time I write a model, I think of others. There are many good models out there from the past. Feel free to post or contact if you have questions are you contemplate purchase. We all know Martin will eventually get an A too so he can join the large fleet in Florida.
  7. Lost in Translation

    To Foil or not to Foil, that is the question

    Upwind there is not much difference between classic and foiler across the wind range unless: 1) there are weeds and then the classic sailor can clear them more easily or 2) it is windy and the foiling sailor can make foiling upwind pay. Downwind in non-foiling conditions the classic goes better, but it doesn't take much wind to foil. If you sail off a beach with waves, you'll have a much easier time launching and retrieving on the classic. If you sail on somewhat flat water with 8 knots to 15 knots, you will love the foiling runs and likely get addicted. If you sail at a lake with weeds and light and variable air all the time, go classic. If you want to minimize athletic requirements, go classic as foiling takes a higher level of fitness. Convertibles that do both are a cool idea but not ideal from a pure racing standpoint. For a classic boat as it will carry more water around in the daggerboard trunks and maybe have rudders that are too long and for a foiler, convertibles tend not to have the most current foils. Picking the type of boat you want to sail is more a philosophy and knowing what you want to do versus a technical matter on boat speed for most people. The North American scene scores classics and foilers separately most of the time so pick the type of boat you want to sail and enjoy it. Both groups of sailors love their boats and the Worlds will be in St Petersburg, FL in the fall of 2021 with the North Americans still taking place there in 2020 too.
  8. Lost in Translation

    Headsail Recommendation for C&C 36

    Good point. The Nordac sails look really nice from the online pics I've seen.
  9. Lost in Translation

    Headsail Recommendation for C&C 36

    Really good feedback all around. I have a racing laminate main that I do not use and maybe I start using it again and get off the Dacron train at some point. I have wondered about how well Dacron can maintain shape as the jib can be close to 600 sq feet on the boat and perhaps that is what you are alluding to Bay Racer? The jibs I have are not deck sweepers and any new one would not be either due to the Harken furler that necessitates the foot of the jib to be at about lifelines height. Suits me fine as I don't have to call "skirt" to myself.
  10. Lost in Translation

    Headsail Recommendation for C&C 36

    I have a 1979 C&C 36 that I sail on Lake Lanier in Georgia. I do not race it but entertain the idea of doing some cruising class racing from time to time that would necessitate keeping Dacron sails. Typically I sail singlehanded or with one or two other folks who are not sail handlers. For that reason, the roller furling jib I have up on the boat now has been great. It is a 135% or 140% sail and sometimes I will partially furl it. Shape is not that good then but still functional and the sail is so old that I'm not too worried about taking good care of it. I also have a smaller roller furling jib at something like 110% that I keep up on breezier months and a smaller one that is not made for storage on the fuller at a #4 size for high wind days. I have been thinking about getting a 155% Dacron sail. Most days during the summer are light wind. The foot is pretty huge on a sail like this at about 25 feet, but I have three speed primary winches that can handle it. I thought I would get foam or rope in the luff to allow partial furling, but am beginning to wonder if that will make the furled sail too large all the time and maybe even the entry too big if partially furled. On the other hand, the tension applied by the furler to a non luff-padded sail makes for an ugly and likely shape damaging arrangement. There is no perfect all around sail but curious for this board's thoughts. Cloth weight of sail. Type of construction (radial, crosscut, etc). Luff padding or no. other thoughts?
  11. Lost in Translation

    Scheurer G7 a cat

    Quite a few Swiss sailors have them from what I have seen. Less mainstream than DNA and eXploder. Very nicely made boats. http://www.scheurerwerft.ch/de/A-Cat. You would want to know how the foils in that boat compare to what is more recent.
  12. Lost in Translation

    Building an A-class Catamaran

    If you wanted to start with something more than foam shaping, you could get in touch with Steve Clark who I think has DK17 molds in Newport or these folks for some help: http://www.openwatersyachts.com/A-Class-Cat.php. Could also reach out to Matt McDonald at Falcon Marine in Florida who may still have some things from when he built A-Class. OH Rogers likely has some molds as would Ben Hall. Tony Arends is a master of the Lindhahl method. His last custom boat is very innovative, but he has moved back to Australia.
  13. Lost in Translation

    Buying rigging-quality low diameter dyneema?

    Reach out to Lamorak here on the forums. He has quite a bit of the best soft standing rigging materials for small boats and can probably sell the line to you or splice it for what you need.
  14. Lost in Translation

    14' Stunt S9 Foiling Cat

    A friend sailed by himself in Santa Cruz, CA on the A which is open ocean. He used a carabiner in his harness to attach himself to the loop of mainsheet / traveler just to be sure he didn't get separated from the boat. I'm not sure that is ideal but the risk with a boat that doesn't turtle is that it can be blown downwind on its side a little faster than you can swim if you aren't quick to get back to the boat. It can be managed, but it's a different risk than sailing a laser that turtles and stays put. A lot of good sailors train by themselves so it can be managed, but worth thinking about how you don't get too far from the boat if it is windy. With less breeze, there is less risk as the boats are easy to right and typically don't go too far from you before capsizing. Still, best to go out with another boat if you can.
  15. Lost in Translation

    DNA vs. eXploder - buying new A Cat

    I believe one container of DNAs and one container of eXploders will be coming from Europe shortly to the USA. If you want to get either one, I would talk to Mischa or Emmanuel respectively and see if there is room to include another boat. More differences: The DNA has more rounded surfaces at the water line and the eXploder has more flat surfaces. I'm not sure the speed is that different but the sounds and feelings in waves will be. The DNA F1 is probably a stiffer boat with its central beam in the middle of the trampoline and pre-preg build. I have heard good things about their flywheel main sheeting system now as being lower friction. The eXploders, once they got to the AD3 design, are the most easily upgradable / customizable boats with daggerboards that are interchangeable in the trunks since the Z10 and retrofit kits for on-the-wire adjustable rudder systems. I've been told an early DNA F1 will not fit the latest DNA boards but know that an early AD3 eXploder that is several years old will fit the latest Z27s. A custom colored F1 looks the sexier of the two in the boat park, but will be a bit harder to repair I imagine if something goes wrong with its curved shapes. Both can use either popular mast, the fiberfoam tapered designed by DNA originally or the fiberfoam straight mast. The tapered design has gotten increasingly popular. Either way, you will enjoy a much improved foiler compared to your 2015 and either boat can win the Worlds. Both makes offer a classic version now too. We have a few of each in classic mode now here in the USA.