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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

Zonker

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  1. I do not understand the requirement for redundancy. Nobody in sport rock climbing uses 2 totally separate ropes (well maybe some do but I'm not aware of them). And rock climbing ropes suffer a lot more abuse and potential for chafe than halyards.
  2. Could an injector be leaking gases and 1 cylinder not working?
  3. You can get a wicked mouse callus...
  4. Bagpipes. OK to be truthful you never actually get past "cat dying" sound with bagpipes. Bob - WTF with the titanium CAT? You're not keeping Jim's secrets too well.
  5. The Comanche 42 had a fractional rig according to that sailplan. Have your friends look up. I was going to say nope on the Hughes 38 but obviously there were 2 models. The one I knew had identical portlights and no step in the cabintop like that. Ah ha! This blog entry from S&S clears up a bit of the confusion. Here's the later one: http://sparkmanstephens.blogspot.ca/2012/02/more-on-hughes-38-design-1903.html And here's a very big photo of the early model. Note the different portlights, lack of teak eyebrow, different cabin top handrails, and lack of teak capping on cockpit coaming for this boat compared to our boat of mystery. But different portlights and lack of some teak isn't conclusive. Builders would often switch to other suppliers for portlights or save costs and eliminate teak trim. The position of the upper shroud and stanchion are identical to the photo below. So is the bow cove stripe markings. I'm going to go with Hughes 38, early model. http://newimages.yachtworld.com/resize/1/46/89/5374689_20160720115121702_1_XLARGE.jpg?f=/1/46/89/5374689_20160720115121702_1_XLARGE.jpg&w=3264&h=2448&t=1469044340000 Parents had a Hughes 31. Crappy sailor, and construction quality was low. Lots of chopper gun in the hull
  6. What you want is a "Big Wall" type harness. I have a Petzl one that is well padded. But after 1/2 hour it starts getting uncomfortable. For shorter trips it's excellent.
  7. Maybe coloured car waxes that are meant for this sort of thing. Color matching red gelcoat might be a devilish task
  8. Other than not using enough frames to support the hull plating, there is nothing special in your designs that allow anybody to build a boat faster. Building the hull ("pulling it together) takes maybe 10% of the total time to build the whole boat if it has a decent interior. In fact, by suggesting they build components instead of buying (blocks, hatches, windlasses) logically they should take more time than other similar steel boat designs. They can easily salvage these components from all the plastic weak boats that just impale themselves on reefs, surf covered beaches and rocks. And that detail on Furring strips - look at Diagram 32. Notice the angle stiffener is upside down and a total water trap. But you're a designer with decades of liveaboard experience and of course you would notice this and never do this right? Look at Diagram 34 which shows the use of drywall screws. Maybe I go to the wrong hardware stores but my experience with drywall screws is they tend to be made of plated mild steel. Guess you like rust stains coming off your screws... I know, I know a box of drywall screws is only $4 and those s.s. ones are $10 so naturally use what makes sense to you.
  9. I did 9 knots once on my Fortune 30 (a heavy Stan Huntingford design). We were surfing (uh plowing, falling) down a rather big wave at the time. I think the GPS was measuring vertical as well as horizontal speed
  10. Unless it's so rough that your planing boat can't plane. Then the deep V hulls roll horribly.
  11. Evans, In increasing ability to stabilize the hull: 1. Hard chines, at least amidships. Kinda funny, but not unlike a Brent Swain boat. Or a double chine hull. The hard edges make it harder for the water to flow around the hull sideways as it rolls. 2. Bilge keels. Just an amplification of the above. Very common on displacement speed workboats. Keep them inboard of the hull max transverse beam so you don't whack them against a pier or something. Make the connection stronger than the bilge keel so they will be torn away in a bad accident. Mount them on a 45 angled double chine hull or turn of bilge if you're a round bottom hull. Maybe 5% more drag than bare hull. In the old days we would do tank tests to align the shape with flow lines on the hull, now I'd do it with a CFD study. 3. Paravanes. Very common on west coast fishing trawlers. Steve Dashew uses them as backups for his active stabilizers. But mechanically dead simple and quite effective. Little scary in a real bad storm as they can fly out of the waves. But for 99.8% of the time they work fine. Can catch debris. Probably the best choice for your sort of boat, and your like of simple solutions. Drag? Dunno offhand but probably similar to a bilge keel or a little more. Will work at anchor as well. 4. Active fin stabilizers. Need a genset or if you have a big enough main engine running you could run a small hyd. pump off the front). Costly. Low drag. 5. Seakeeper Gyros. Heavy and expensive but very effective. No drag. About 3-5 kW power requirement. Could run it off a big inverter I guess. Mitsubishi makes a similar one but heavier and for larger boats. Don't think it runs in a vacuum though. Have a look at Paul Bieker's concept for a 40' long range power boat. About what I'd want for myself if I didn't have Dashew money. Very lower power to do 10 knots. http://biekerboats.com/project/40ft-long-range-cruiser/
  12. Umm SOLAS usually doesn't apply to small yachts. You have to be over 300 GRT on international voyages!
  13. Just finished a circumnavigation (well in January) with a radial Hydranet genoa. Still has very good shape, draft has not moved aft significantly. I like the stuff. This is a genoa on a 40' pretty light catamaran that regularly sails quickly in too much apparent wind Here's part of the data from my sail's lot of cloth: Style : 383 HYDRA NET RADIAL Lot-No.: : 31649 Act. Weight : 394 g/m² / 9,20 sm oz warp 0° 1% stretch 133.5 lab / 130.8 flutter (lbs) fill 90° 1% stretch 37.1 lab / 35.8 flutter (lbs) bias 45° lab 23,8 / flutter 22,9 (lbs) Here's the generic numbers for Challenge High Aspect dacron 9.62 (9 oz), used on my very high aspect mainsail in a cross-cut manner. I'm not sure how much variation between these number and actual lots of cloth warp 38 / fill 150 / bias 24.5 As you can see the Hydranet is nothing special compared to the lab numbers for Dacron. But it sure seems to hold its shape better than any Dacron sail I've used.
  14. I think PDQ once offered a "turbo 36”. Daggers, taller mast, and a sprit. Not sure any were sold. My wife is Facebook friends with Simon Slater, ex-President of PDQ. When she is back in town in a week I'll get her to ask him. His dad designed the 36. Another resource might be Ted Clements, who designed the 42/44. The 36 was before his time but he might have been involved with a the turbo 36. Ted: https://catamaranconcepts.com If you do it yourself it wouldn't be the first home done sprit. Yes you need water guys! Bolting a bracket to the forebeam FWD side is better than welding. Welding aluminum locally weakens it a lot. FWD side is better because forestay bending loads are much higher on top and bottom of the beam.