1sailor

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About 1sailor

  • Rank
    Super Anarchist
  • Birthday 03/28/1967

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  • Website URL
    http://www.terrafirmaprop.com
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    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    'Usual Suspects' Farr 400
  • Interests
    Laser sailing and offshore racing on the great lakes

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10,315 profile views
  1. 1sailor

    Velocitek Speed Puck

    at nearly any given time you can find one on eBay. Pucks are nice, but they dont last forever and after a couple years velocitek won't service it but will sell you another one at a discount (not thru dealer) Pro-Starts are way better but if simple is good enough then buy a Shift and be done with it. No batteries, they hold a charge forever as the solar panel is amazing. having owned a couple of each of the above models, the shift seems most reliable / not glitchy and the no-batteries thing to me has huge appeal as the speed puck EATS batteries super fast and AA's are always missing when ya need em
  2. 1sailor

    What is the closest 40’er to a TP52?

    turbo'd farr 400 with a nose job, some old guys on deck and a ton of kids having fun in harbor springs
  3. 1sailor

    What is the closest 40’er to a TP52?

    granted i'm only 5'9" but yeah I can stand up in it
  4. 1sailor

    What is the closest 40’er to a TP52?

    How 'bout one of these for your answer? 100% carbon hull, deck, rig, foils. Pedestal grinder and string drops. similar to the 52 in crew roles, with similar sail controls. its an easy boat to own, has a road trailer, it's very light and you can even stand up in it
  5. 1sailor

    West Michigan Thread

    This does sound fun, in a year where so much racing has been missed. Usual Suspects is IN.
  6. 1sailor

    SAILMON MAX

    a small mistake by them but no it isn’t. p. 17 only says to ‘plug it into a USB’ no biggie, i’m just not accustomed to buying stuff that requires a separate charger i now have bought a suitable charger let’s see how it goes! i’m hopeful!
  7. 1sailor

    SAILMON MAX

    I wonder why the folks at Salmon didn't put this anywhere in the package, jeez, I"m no electronics guy but this isn't obvious at all to me.. hmm..
  8. 1sailor

    SAILMON MAX

    iPad charger ?
  9. 1sailor

    SAILMON MAX

    Question: I pulled it outta the mail yesterday, doesn't power up. Wrote to Sailmon, they immediately called AND followed up with email. Impressive. They suggested my iPhone charger brick may not be adequate, so I plugged into my laptop to charge but still all I get is this screen. Any ideas ? I think the Sailmon folks have left for the day I cant get this screen to go away, no power on and no power off. it's just frozen
  10. 1sailor

    SAILMON MAX

    Hey Sailmon, my MAX showed up today and I showed it to my crew who are in awe of the greatness I describe from the brochure. however, i'm doing something wrong I think. When I try to power it up I get the Sailmon 'S' logo on the screen and I cant turn the device off or (more) on from there. Just the logo--- probly missed something in the quick start guide (its at my office) when I flew thru it. What am I doing wrong ? Not fully charged enough maybe ? No buttons seem to impact this, I'd be grateful for any input !
  11. 1sailor

    Foiling MOTH tuning

    wand moves pretty freely now, but max wand forward (vertical) to max aft (lowrider position) results in flap moving only around 4-5mm doesent seem enough?
  12. 1sailor

    Foiling MOTH tuning

    wow. ok. now i’m back to thinking I DO need more range, phil’s note interpret as 16mm of flap range. my bow pushrod doesn’t slide as well as that description - i’m gonna start with that, and see what that does, also inspect the parts leading to the bowsprit (yes I have that), and report back. THANK YOU all who replied here. I’m on it. Standby eric
  13. 1sailor

    Foiling MOTH tuning

    Recently bought a used Mach 2, and with no local moth sailors in my 'hood am relying on some of you experts for input. I've watched all the Outteridge tutorial videos, and read the awesome articles by Dan Neri (he also followed up when I emailed him the below, with some great advice-- much respect here) The short version of my dilemma -- I can pop up on the foils quickly without drama- until the foil pierces the surface and I crash. The boat just wants to keep climbing (vertically). dial out some lift, right ? Cant quite understand how to get enough flap ‘range’ on the main horizontal. equipment background: - ride height barrel has a range of 40mm of thread, full-open (long) to fully closed (short) - large ‘early-rise’ foil has a flap range of 0-28mm (moving bell crank fore-aft with my hands, nothing connected) - I’m beginning per Dan Neri's article from mid-height with the gearing, in the middle of the bell-crank stalk the problem: - wand position doesn’t seem to have very much influence on main foil flap angle - range of influence seems to be around only 4mm from wand vertical to wand aft (low-ride/ launch mode), regardless of barrel position or gear height summary: - it seems to me that we’d want the main horizontal to be ‘flaps down’ (28mm?) to generate max lift for take-off, then as the wand drops to a vertical position, would relax itself (via the shock cord assist) forward until the main foil gap goes to the suggested 7mm as an all-purpose cruising / starting point. this amount of range seems unattainable based on my various input combinations of barrel length, gearing, shock cord tension etc Gearing: Barrel threads Main Horizontal Flap GAP wand vertical ——> wand aft low on bell crank: barrel open 40mm threads showing. flap range= 24-28mm barrel in middle 20mm threads showing. flap range = 11-18mm barrel is closed 0mm threads showing. flap range = 2-7mm middle of bell crank open 40mm 25-28mm middle 20mm 17-21mm closed 0mm 7-12mm high on bell crank open 40mm 23-27mm middle 20mm 17-21mm closed 0mm 9-12mm Conclusions: Gearing has little influence on flap position. Existing controls cannot provide for both a flap-down and also cruising orientation of main foil flap without significant manipulation. I’ve been able to sail the boat ‘low’ and have no struggle getting the boat to lift off and go all the way up. However, this is when the main horizontal flap is all the way in down / hi-lift mode and the boat keeps rising until the foil breaks the surface. And I crash. The flap on the main horizontal will not retreat to a neutral-camber position, it stays in hi-lift mode. Unless I adjust it to neutral, then it doesn’t create lift for take-off. I have not tried to sail it with no camber. If I put the foil @ the suggested 7mm ‘open’ position (with wand vertical, barrel mostly closed, gearing in mid-height on bell-crank) and then re-look at the main horizontal flap angle with the wand in launch position, I would only be at 12mm gap for take-off. Is that enough ? If so, whey would it be designed to have a 28mm range ? I”m guessing this is not enough camber to generate the lift I need to get my sorry ass up in the air, as it only provides 5mm more foil flap lift than the indicated / suggested 7mm ‘cruising altitude’ per Dan Neri’s well written article. Hoping Phil S and other mothies will chime in here. Dan Neri's info yesterday was helpful for sure, I'm just trying to glean as much info as I can to be efficient with my practice time / mitigate the swim meet No, there aren't any local moths to sail with where I am currently..
  14. 1sailor

    Looking for a new watch...

    those are configurable from 0-10 mins countdown and have a flyback / fly forward feature (if you were late for the gun) and work great. very simple and few keystrokes. Plus it is fully automatic, maybe a couple bucks more than the casio but think of all the money you'll save on batteries
  15. 1sailor

    West Michigan Thread

    any of you guys seen refunds yet from queens cup and / or CYC for the Mac race entry fees ?