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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

BobJ

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About BobJ

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  1. With apologies to Inspector Clouseau: "SA at RBBS like television on honeymoon . . . unnecessary."
  2. ... chica-boom, chica-boom-boom-tent! Hi Paul - long-time-no-SSB! I wasn't sure how covers would work out so rather than spend a bunch on custom-fitted Sunbrella works of art, I bought a boat tarp from MyTarp.com. It was made from some kind of weatherproof but breathable stuff and I ordered it with SS grommets. The thing held up really well so three years later I ordered a custom-sized tarp from them and a second triangular piece to cover the area from the mast forward. I had the grommets located so they would correspond with good tie down spots on the boat (mostly stanchion bases) and I had the middle section (that sits on the boom) made with a double layer. I ended up with a cheap set of covers that have held up well. Notes: I did not "tie (them) down as tight as possible" - the grommets will just pull out. Instead, I cut pieces of 1/4" bungee cord to fit, which allow the covers to flex a bit in the wind. Also, I sized the width so air flows over the deck but the portlights (which craze), winches and other stuff are sun-protected. The covers are about a foot shy of the gun'l all the way around. Finally, the chafe from the tarp will wear through your mains'l cover at the ends. You need a smooth pad of some kind in those spots. My boat is in a slip year-round and exposed to the southerlies, but the covers have held up fine. And did I mention they were relatively cheap?
  3. That's part of the reason I like it better than the stock Cape George - but then I own a J Boat (not one of the big ones!) so I'm used to a flatter sheer.
  4. My current object of attraction. The sheer was trimmed slightly out of the mold, the bowsprit was leveled out, etc. Makes her an understated beauty IMO: Millie
  5. I'm with Alpha. Some nice brightwork does not an attractive boat make. Besides, it has TWO offset companionways.
  6. I'm very sorry they lost the boat. I wouldn't have been as philosophical about it as Rick was - I would have been distraught. The flip side of your comment is that with two out of three hulls intact, TOV is going to float quite well for a long time. In fact, maybe they hit the remains of the last boat that was abandoned but not scuttled. If it was me, I'd have made sure it didn't remain floating out there as a hazard. I know, there are other things out there you can hit, but this is a big one that didn't need to be left floating. Were there no thru-hulls with hoses to pull? Sorry, but I run on that track now and then.
  7. I bought a pair of J/111 inhauler rings from Hall Spars. They're a bit large for my boat (and pricey) but were made for the job. The black rubber edge leaves marks on the cabin side but those clean right off. (See in upper left corner of photo.)
  8. Yes, designed by Rod for his nephew, Clay Burkhalter to race in the 2007 M-T. Does anyone have any scoop on the new J designs?
  9. Search here - not all it's cracked up to be. Probably okay for a flatter sail but no-go for a runner in my (and others') experience. For your sail (A0/3) a regular bottom-up flying sail furler will work just as well and will be much easier on the sail. It's an absolute bear to get the sail off of a top-down unit once it's rolled up, so do a normal douse at the end of the day. Don't leave a good spinnaker rolled up on one.
  10. Nah, I think he's naive - no concept of seamanship whatsoever. He'll end up needing a rescue when he runs out of food/water. This thread is his reality show but he doesn't realize it. It's all kind of strange.
  11. Correct about the gybes. A bit too much extra work in the Bay but well worth it in the ocean. We talked about it more in the other thread (In Gear Anarchy). Squaring back gives you a lot wider groove to steer in the surfs without collapsing the kite behind the main. On a tri I'd be worried about sticking it in though - you have other concerns in those conditions.
  12. ...and when the time comes, solosailor can build it for you. I thought we would need a reaching strut to get the pole started aft (until there was enough angle to get leverage) but Scott E talked me out of it and he was right. It hasn't been an issue (but it's a small boat).
  13. Three feet of extension sounds like a lot to me for that boat. I'd just go with enough to get the tack clear of the pulpit (part of that is pulpit design) and to be able to do inside gybes. In our limited experience, the sprit being of equal length to the pole made it easy to transition back to the sprit from the pole tip for gybing the kite. It's also easier to attach the pole because the tack line is right where it needs to be. The Selden deal hokey? (Edit - well, kinda. I looked at the photo and in carbon it doesn't look too bad.) If you did a retractable sprit would it be on deck or below? I get weary of the v-berth area being wet all the time. It's not a lot of water but just enough to keep everything wet, especially in an ocean race. OTOH the on-deck sprits don't look that good. If it was me I'd sail it a bunch, play around with a J/80 ass'y (or something) and see what you think. That's what my friends with the Laser 28 did. They busted one temporary sprit, tried some other things and ultimately decided the convenience was worth it. But conventional spinnakers have their advantages, especially on these smaller boats.
  14. Any idea what Elise's problem was with the EFOY? I hadn't heard of issues with them before (though we don't see them out here much). I'd also be reluctant to drag a hydrogenerator behind my little boat. What we need is a return to normal weather for these Hawaii races. Stan's "slotcars to Hawaii" hasn't been my experience in three tries.