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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

StumbleNola

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About StumbleNola

  • Rank
    Anarchist

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  • Location
    New Orleans
  • Interests
    Um... Sailing
  1. My newest project

    Wait, I thought pink shorts were mandatory.
  2. My newest project

    It might not be a bad idea to add a grab rail just inside of the NKE's. Its never a bad idea to have extra grab rails, they would do double duty to shield the buttons, and third duty as somewhere to rest a foot when heeled. Fiddles would also work, but I like the added bonus of actually using them as a grab rail.
  3. Something different for CA

    Bah double post
  4. Something different for CA

    Not a clue. But it tensions the canvas as it comes out so I would think so. Maybe not 35kn fast, but I would think 15-20 would be ok. But I have zero experience with them IRL, I looked at them for a seaside project a few years ago. After some more research, this is from the manufacturer... http://www.sureshade.com/m3-automated-mega-boat-shade/ Yes, our designs are so robust that they can be used fully extended while a boat is underway. SureShade shades have been independently tested and can withstand wind speeds of 50+ mph, and can hold 300 lbs across the framework. However, we do not recommend extending or retracting operation of the shade top while underway or cruising with a forward (bow) mounted shade extended.
  5. Something different for CA

    I think this was mentioned before, but Surshade makes an extendable awning that can be recessed into the bridge deck. From what I have seen (I have no affiliation) it can recess into about a 4" thick cabinet. This might be a good way to have the best of both worlds. Hidden away when the weather allows, and extended when it has to be.
  6. My newest project

    Bob, Anderson winches are all made with 316L stainless, most deck hardware is 304 or 300 stainless. I would argue that neither are really suitable for bead blasting in the marine environment, but of the two 316L is going to be far better off it is it. I really hope I am just overreacting, and metallurgy is not my area of expertise, but this would be a real concern to me. If anything I would just hold off on blasting the gear for boats 2+ until you see how the first one does. As for passivating... The shop could do it in house pretty easily, without any real investment, all it takes is maybe $100 in materials. 1) A 10 gallon crawfish pot 2) A hot plate from Target 3) A few pounds of citric acid (Beer supply or restaurant supply stores about $0.50/lb) a) put the pot on the hot plate b ) Fill with 5 gallons of water c) Add 4.1lbs of citric acid d) Heat the solution to 150F e) Drop the parts in for 30 minutes. f) rinse with fresh water. The boat looks amazing btw. I actually really like the way it looks.
  7. Stanchion - Lifelines - what should fail first

    From the picture it looks like that snapped station has been suffering from corrosion for a long time. If it broke from fresh the break line should be very bright and shinny instead the break line looks dull and oxidized. Ideally the stations should bend, then break long before the pulpits do.
  8. Smart Watch

    I was running RaceQ's on a pebble, but with Pebble shutting down and RaceQ's saying they would no longer support the platform its pretty much at a dead end. The final release wasn't bad, and other than a few minor bugs worked very well for me. I can recommend going this route for a very low cost option. But as mentioned it requires taking an iPhone/android with you to provide the telemetry data. However for my birthday I got an Apple Watch 2 and immediately started looking for sailing apps for it. iRegatta frankly just seems like a lot of overhead for a small boat. It may be ideal if you are push NMEA data to your phone, then on to the watch, but for a small boat it really is just more complexity than you need. Instead I have been trying out an app called YoNav!. It doesn't do a lot, but it does do exactly what you need. It uses the watch's internal gps for telemetry so you don't need to bring your phone, and has all of the primary data available. I don't think it can tie into NMEA data, but meh, I don't have any other instruments onboard anyway. The primary features are the ability to navigate to fixed marks (though the developer is planning on a w/l input soon), establish routes to follow, and then display the telemetry you really need (up to 4 fields). I have been messing around with sailing watches for over a year now, and this is the first time I can really say that the app does exactly what I want it to in a way that is easy to control while out on the wire. https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/yonav-the-gps-app-that-just-works/id1225710986?mt=8 I should point out that I have no involvement other than as a very happy customer.
  9. My newest project

    Bob, I hope I am wrong, but I really expect a substantial amount of rusting on all that bead blasted stainless.
  10. My newest project

    Bob, I am wondering if you did anything to protect the stainless from corrosion? Bead blasted stainless has some serious problems with pitting corrosion due to the surface irregularities and that it is rarely passivated after being blasted. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/maco.200403846/abstract
  11. Tanker hits Destoyer, how is this possible?

    Which has fuck all to do with being restricted. Restricted in the COLREGs has a specific meaning which simply does not apply here. And the size and maneuverability of a vessel also has fuck all to do with who was the stand on and give way vessel. You need to spend some time reading the rules before spouting off and proving you have no idea what you are talking about.
  12. Gitana 17 on Foils

    I am not sure that with these bigocean crushing trimarans moving to full foiling makes much sense honestly. They are already so fast I have doubts about the gains, and if they start going to much faster they are going to need super-cavitating foils or start blowing the foils apart.
  13. Perry Sliver Class Day Sailor

    They are primarily G2. The ability to flex like that is just down to size. Because Ti is so springy it's hard to apply enough force to a glasses frame in a small enough spot to deform the metal. But with tubing the diameter is really what provides the stiffness not the metal, so a pretty springy alloy can be used and you get the best of both worlds. The shape (really the diameter) provides the stiffness, but if someone hits the lifelines hard instead of deforming like stainless will or tearing like aluminium, the titanium will bend, a lot more then spring back into shape. I This can actually be an issue when working with Ti. When bending tubing there is something called springback, which is how much a bend will relax after the part is released from the bending machine. For steel and aluminium 5 degrees is on the very high end with 1% being more common, for titanium up to 25 degrees is realistic so it takes some getting used to. But for lifeline stantions being able to bend them far past normal before being permanently deformed is a bonus so long as they are stiff enough to do the job (and they are). This springback was why G9 was developed in the first place. G5 is just too strong to bend reliably without elevated temperatures (as in over 600F elevated). G9 is just week enough it can be bent at room temperatures with standard shop equipment. As Ti prices keep falling off a cliff I expect to see it replace stainless as the go to metal for most marine applications. In some places it really isn't suitable, but for most things it really is. As for pricing... if you call a fab shop like Allied and ask for a bulk order, and in Ti fabrication 10 parts is considered bulk, you can often see a massive price decrease.
  14. Perry Sliver Class Day Sailor

    If you go to their website and just search for stantiones and associated bits (caps, rollers, etc) they have a couple hundred options available. Just don't trust the prices as listed. Because it's mostly custom work some of the prices may not have been updated in years. Fwiw. There are two alloys I would suggest G2 and G9. G2 will be cheaper, and with about the same strength as 304 it's basically a size for size swap. G9 is an aerospace allow used for tubing, and is roughly twice the strength of 304 (though about half as stiff) so you could go much thinner and save even more weight but at a cost premium, but the stantions would flex a good bit if heavily loaded. So each of the stantions acts a littl like a spring, and will flex to absorb impact loads instead of deforming like stainless does.
  15. Perry Sliver Class Day Sailor

    Bob, You might want to give Allied Titanium a call for the lifelines. I haven't worked wi them for years now, but they used to make custom titanium G9 lifelines for about $75 a piece. About the same price as Ronstans 304 stainless. Half the weight, and have a lot more spring before being deformed, and unlike carbon they won't shatter if pressed. I am not sure if Francis is carbon, but titanium won't have corrosion issues with a carbon skin either.