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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

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sailthebay26

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About sailthebay26

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  • Birthday 04/26/1981

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    Newport, RI

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  1. Musto LPX for offshore racing

    Anything but balled up. I usually fold in half and roll my gear before putting it in a bag for racing, then hang it when at home. My work MPX bibs stay rolled up in a backpack and seem to be fine 7 years later.
  2. Musto LPX for offshore racing

    Depends on the boat and what your position is on said boat. The bermuda race outside the first 24-36 hours is very warm and you will find yourself wanting a lighter jacket. If you are on some bigger drier boat and stay mostly in the cockpit you will be fine with the LPX, this is coming from some one who owns LPX, MPX and HPX. If you are a front of the boat guy I would recommend a smock like the mpx or spray top. I ran a boat where all our jackets were LPX for a season and then gave them out to the guys, no one has had an issue. I would however recommend you buy a size up so you can layer for the colder nights. For bottoms spend the most money there and if possible buy HPX along with solid boots to stay dry.
  3. USA 236 Hall Spars has opened a service company based out of the Hinckley yard in Portsmouth, RI. They have all the old inventory out of the stock room and the drawings to get parts built if they don't have the parts. Their number is the same as it was before 401-253-4858
  4. Spin Halyard management

    Ok here is a way to do it that is more expensive but is bulletproof and works every time. Using a tylaska attach it to the turnbuckle/chain plate with spectra and run the other end through the trigger area. I usually will splice the loop on the tylaska and then luggage tag the loop to the turnbuckle and tape in place. Then rig a piece of bungee through the bale and back to the turnbuckle or chain plate. The bungee keeps the shackle correctly oriented and the first pull on the halyard opens once the spectra loop gets tight. Note that the bungee should not limit the travel of the tylaska as you want the positive resistance when the halyard is pulled forward
  5. Removing genoa track

    If you keep the nut threaded on but at the end of the thread you will have a much larger "head" to hit and are much less likely to damage the thread.
  6. Cockpit Non-Skid

    Talk to Billy Mac as he does all the 72s and 52s http://www.performancesailtools.com/
  7. Carbon Spin Pole Splice

    Remember that it is all about the taper on the new laminate. You can't just cut off the broken piece and slide in a new internal piece. There is going to be a lot of work and time, you may want to talk to the guys at Forte as they may have a blank tube sitting around with the correct laminate structure.
  8. Dyneema on Dyneema ... problem?

    Most of the sails with hanks now in smaller boats use spectra webbing and a velcro to secure it in place. I'm sure your sailmaker and sort you out
  9. Used Gear

    What size? I have a bunch of large stuff I am willing to part with. PM me
  10. Threads-per-inch needed for machine screw to hold in 1/8" steel

    Why not just put a nut on the inside of the hull? You could weld the bolts to the flange so then it is only a one man job to tighten the flange. I would also create an internal backing plate to not deform the hull. Realistically though if it worked for decades why not clean off the sealant and just redo what was done the first time?