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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About bcarter1234

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  1. DC Designs

    Really just a thread bump but I had a great day sailing the IC in Lake Monroe FL today. Anybody else in warmer climates getting to sail?
  2. DC Designs

    Last I heard, yes Any details available?
  3. DC Designs

    Anyone know if there is going to be an IC regatta this winter in Mobile?
  4. DC Designs

    Sorry about the quality from my phone camera. Here are some pictures of the crude 10th scale model I carved this afternoon. Obviously no effort to fair it yet. Hull planform results from a max beam of 30" from the "transom" to an intersection with straight lines from a 7% half entry (thank you Mr Maas). Max beam begins about 60% back from the stem. No rocker from midpoint aft. It will weigh just under 20gr once the deck is raised to where it probably should be. This should translate to 20kg for a full size solid model from the same material. It floats on its lines at 150gr so full size displacement would be 150kg. Please correct me if I'm wrong about these factors. It floats slightly bow up with 130gr weight placed as shown. In my previous model experience this was desirable for static balance as the high aspect rig generally pushed the bow down as soon as there was some breeze. Should I move the center of bouyancy aft or will this also be a good thing full scale? On a related topic how far back is too far back for the rig? Once I get some feedback I'll carve a 5th scale version and see if it comes out at 160gr with 1.2kg displacement. As SHC sensibly suggests it may end up being a below the chine only foam boat. I might keep my options slightly more open in the stern in case I couldn't resist testing a pintail. I do love a double ender.
  5. DC Designs

    Thanks for all the replies. Hell bent? Could be. But while I don't lack ego nor feel the need to follow any crowd I do have enough sense to avail myself to the vast store of knowledge here in hopes of getting a feel for whether it's an idea worth pursuing. Making a slightly smaller hull box is a great suggestion. I wouldn't need to be concerned with fairness. The first picture that popped into my head was a long skinny Optimist hull, not what you had in mind I'm sure. I do want to make clear the intention was never to have a "keeper" made from foam. The foam hull would only be for testing. Once you arrived at a shape you liked you could use it as a male plug to do a proper boat from. My goal was to have a shape that could be quickly and cheaply modified and not have to put so much time and money into a theoretical design that might not pan out in practice. Once done I could hotwire the foam off and try a light air only hull shape or pass the box hull onto the next guy with a crazy idea of what a 21st century canoe should be shaped like. It seems to me to take biggest advantage of any development class you have to be able to try out multiple solutions. Spending months of my free time and thousands building a hull would have a tendency to slow the development process for me if not others. I can spend $2-3000 in materials to build a hull just not very many times in a row. I also think once I do it I'm going to be more attached to that hull than is wise from a development standpoint even if it doesn't work as I had hoped. Has that ever happened in the DC/IC world? I really do appreciate all your input, thanks for sharing the knowledge. It bodes well for keeping the class alive.
  6. DC Designs

    Steve, First if I haven't thanked you I want to for keeping such a cool boat on the radar so I could "discover" them about a year ago. My life would have been the less for it had I never sailed a canoe. Thanks also for your comments on this, your suggestion of complete boats definitely provides a better shortcut to building a local fleet. I do like the idea of a reusable deck module as opposed to an internal skeleton. Anybody care to sketch something that would likely stand up to the loads the rig, seat, daggerboard and rudder impose? If done correctly hull blanks could be mostly flat topped, maybe stepped near the mast location with slots to accept any necessary vertical elements, i.e. trusses, foil wells etc. It would be great if I could just bolt the module onto some inserts in the hull blank. Any thoughts on what the deck module would best be constructed from? My thinking was that if I could do relatively quick and dirty hull testing I'd be willing to try more ideas rather than becoming married to a less than stellar shape because I already had significant time and materials invested. I envision, though perhaps unrealistically, that you could quickly add or remove volume and modify the shape of the blank. Materials for a new blank should be under $300. I took a wild guess that a canoe hull has about 25 cubic feet of volume, someone please correct me if that is way off. If so even a solid blank would weigh about 25kg if you used Foamular 600 or HiLoad 60. It could weigh as little as 18kg if you could work with Foamular 250 or Square Edge. If a deck module formed the the dance floor and the top deck the foam weight would be less and the lower compression strength foam might work. Stop me now if this seems like a really horrible idea. Otherwise thanks for any suggestions.
  7. DC Designs

    I'm starting some models in foam to get an idea what kind of hull shape I'd like to build. I have some questions about the relationship between a hard chine, the line of the keel and the static waterline. 1) If I'm going to go with a straight keel from the halfway point of the hull to the stern should the chine be parallel to the keel, the static waterline, both, neither? 2) Is it acceptable for the any part of the chine to be submerged when the hull is not moving or should it be positioned high enough to avoid this? Would it be possible to build a skeleton strong enough to support all the key parts of the canoe, ie rudder, daggerboard well, seat carriage, mast, jib tack and have it still be light enough to use for testing hulls? The idea would be to build blue or pink foam shells and insert the skeleton. It would be a quick way to test a variety of hull shapes. The bare foam would like ly be strong enough for testing as most of the stresses would be carried by the skeleton. Modifying the hull would be a very quick and easy proposition. Thanks in advance for any thoughts. Take care, Brent
  8. DC Designs

    Not to stray too far off topic but is there anyone present who has sailed something like this? It looks like great fun and a modern one should turn some heads. Do the nearest and farthest boats have retractable poles on deck? Thanks in advance for any assistance. Take care, Brent
  9. DC Designs

    Okay, It's great to see so much interest in this thread. I played for awhile in a development class in RC boats so I know how much fun the process can be. I also know how daunting it can appear to an outsider with no experience in building a boat that doesn't come in a kit or at least with plans and a fairly detailed bill of materials. I'm definitely curious about building a hull using either wood or foam as in Giajin or Chris's method with the pre-laminated foam. What kind of materials do I need to have on hand to make a hull? Just get me in the ballpark. How many sheets of what core, how much cloth of what type, how much resin etc. This way I can have the lion's share of the stuff on hand to proceed. Any sourcing guidelines would be great too. From a complete outsider's perspective this general info would be very beneficial. It would also be possible to get an idea of the budget for the hull at least. Thanks in advance for any help. Maybe a rough bill of materials will result in more boats getting built. You've already shown through this thread that the necessary hand holding will be available once a project gets started. I'd just like a little push on the first step down the road (or off the cliff as it may be.) Take care, Brent
  10. High BCarter, I don't have any info on that boat. Call me at 912-441-4454 and I can maybe help with info on vipers . I was the tech chair for two years had #23 #77 #109.