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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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About bcarter1234

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  1. Really just a thread bump but I had a great day sailing the IC in Lake Monroe FL today. Anybody else in warmer climates getting to sail?
  2. Last I heard, yes Any details available?
  3. Anyone know if there is going to be an IC regatta this winter in Mobile?
  4. Sorry about the quality from my phone camera. Here are some pictures of the crude 10th scale model I carved this afternoon. Obviously no effort to fair it yet. Hull planform results from a max beam of 30" from the "transom" to an intersection with straight lines from a 7% half entry (thank you Mr Maas). Max beam begins about 60% back from the stem. No rocker from midpoint aft. It will weigh just under 20gr once the deck is raised to where it probably should be. This should translate to 20kg for a full size solid model from the same material. It floats on its lines at 150gr so full size displacement would be 150kg. Please correct me if I'm wrong about these factors. It floats slightly bow up with 130gr weight placed as shown. In my previous model experience this was desirable for static balance as the high aspect rig generally pushed the bow down as soon as there was some breeze. Should I move the center of bouyancy aft or will this also be a good thing full scale? On a related topic how far back is too far back for the rig? Once I get some feedback I'll carve a 5th scale version and see if it comes out at 160gr with 1.2kg displacement. As SHC sensibly suggests it may end up being a below the chine only foam boat. I might keep my options slightly more open in the stern in case I couldn't resist testing a pintail. I do love a double ender.
  5. Thanks for all the replies. Hell bent? Could be. But while I don't lack ego nor feel the need to follow any crowd I do have enough sense to avail myself to the vast store of knowledge here in hopes of getting a feel for whether it's an idea worth pursuing. Making a slightly smaller hull box is a great suggestion. I wouldn't need to be concerned with fairness. The first picture that popped into my head was a long skinny Optimist hull, not what you had in mind I'm sure. I do want to make clear the intention was never to have a "keeper" made from foam. The foam hull would only be for testing. Once you arrived at a shape you liked you could use it as a male plug to do a proper boat from. My goal was to have a shape that could be quickly and cheaply modified and not have to put so much time and money into a theoretical design that might not pan out in practice. Once done I could hotwire the foam off and try a light air only hull shape or pass the box hull onto the next guy with a crazy idea of what a 21st century canoe should be shaped like. It seems to me to take biggest advantage of any development class you have to be able to try out multiple solutions. Spending months of my free time and thousands building a hull would have a tendency to slow the development process for me if not others. I can spend $2-3000 in materials to build a hull just not very many times in a row. I also think once I do it I'm going to be more attached to that hull than is wise from a development standpoint even if it doesn't work as I had hoped. Has that ever happened in the DC/IC world? I really do appreciate all your input, thanks for sharing the knowledge. It bodes well for keeping the class alive.
  6. Steve, First if I haven't thanked you I want to for keeping such a cool boat on the radar so I could "discover" them about a year ago. My life would have been the less for it had I never sailed a canoe. Thanks also for your comments on this, your suggestion of complete boats definitely provides a better shortcut to building a local fleet. I do like the idea of a reusable deck module as opposed to an internal skeleton. Anybody care to sketch something that would likely stand up to the loads the rig, seat, daggerboard and rudder impose? If done correctly hull blanks could be mostly flat topped, maybe stepped near the mast location with slots to accept any necessary vertical elements, i.e. trusses, foil wells etc. It would be great if I could just bolt the module onto some inserts in the hull blank. Any thoughts on what the deck module would best be constructed from? My thinking was that if I could do relatively quick and dirty hull testing I'd be willing to try more ideas rather than becoming married to a less than stellar shape because I already had significant time and materials invested. I envision, though perhaps unrealistically, that you could quickly add or remove volume and modify the shape of the blank. Materials for a new blank should be under $300. I took a wild guess that a canoe hull has about 25 cubic feet of volume, someone please correct me if that is way off. If so even a solid blank would weigh about 25kg if you used Foamular 600 or HiLoad 60. It could weigh as little as 18kg if you could work with Foamular 250 or Square Edge. If a deck module formed the the dance floor and the top deck the foam weight would be less and the lower compression strength foam might work. Stop me now if this seems like a really horrible idea. Otherwise thanks for any suggestions.
  7. I'm starting some models in foam to get an idea what kind of hull shape I'd like to build. I have some questions about the relationship between a hard chine, the line of the keel and the static waterline. 1) If I'm going to go with a straight keel from the halfway point of the hull to the stern should the chine be parallel to the keel, the static waterline, both, neither? 2) Is it acceptable for the any part of the chine to be submerged when the hull is not moving or should it be positioned high enough to avoid this? Would it be possible to build a skeleton strong enough to support all the key parts of the canoe, ie rudder, daggerboard well, seat carriage, mast, jib tack and have it still be light enough to use for testing hulls? The idea would be to build blue or pink foam shells and insert the skeleton. It would be a quick way to test a variety of hull shapes. The bare foam would like ly be strong enough for testing as most of the stresses would be carried by the skeleton. Modifying the hull would be a very quick and easy proposition. Thanks in advance for any thoughts. Take care, Brent
  8. Not to stray too far off topic but is there anyone present who has sailed something like this? It looks like great fun and a modern one should turn some heads. Do the nearest and farthest boats have retractable poles on deck? Thanks in advance for any assistance. Take care, Brent
  9. Okay, It's great to see so much interest in this thread. I played for awhile in a development class in RC boats so I know how much fun the process can be. I also know how daunting it can appear to an outsider with no experience in building a boat that doesn't come in a kit or at least with plans and a fairly detailed bill of materials. I'm definitely curious about building a hull using either wood or foam as in Giajin or Chris's method with the pre-laminated foam. What kind of materials do I need to have on hand to make a hull? Just get me in the ballpark. How many sheets of what core, how much cloth of what type, how much resin etc. This way I can have the lion's share of the stuff on hand to proceed. Any sourcing guidelines would be great too. From a complete outsider's perspective this general info would be very beneficial. It would also be possible to get an idea of the budget for the hull at least. Thanks in advance for any help. Maybe a rough bill of materials will result in more boats getting built. You've already shown through this thread that the necessary hand holding will be available once a project gets started. I'd just like a little push on the first step down the road (or off the cliff as it may be.) Take care, Brent