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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About zzrider

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    New England
  1. Ok so here's a shot of the worst of the two, the port lid: You can clearly see the extensive cracking in the outer skin near the forward hinge. Like I said, this lid is VERY soft and broken down. It's particularly bad around the hinges. I don't think this exterior surface can be salvaged. Here's the underside of the same lid: A PO had obviously made a failed attempt at an earlier repair, having laminated in a couple strips of fiberglass cloth tape to the bottom. It did't do much good. The starboard lid is bad too, but not as bad as this one. So here's my thoughts on fixing these: 1) Grind down the inner skin and remove the failed core (which was very thin and obviously insufficient in the first place). I'm hoping the outer skin has enough residual integrity left to at least act as a substrate for laying down my new inner laminate. 2) Epoxy in new layers of cloth, followed by probably 3 longitudinal stiffening ribs, which I will have already fabricated in epoxy & cloth. Let cure. 3) Flip it over, grind off failed outer skin, relaminate with cloth & epoxy. 4) Let cure, fair exterior surface 5) Finish with paint and nonskid, accepting that it won't match the rest of the cockpit. Fortunately the edges, corners, and bearing surfaces were the lid sits on the hatch support perimeter are solid, so I'm hoping I won't have to grind away and relaminate any of that complexity. Sound about right? Doing the outer top surface is obviously the part that worries me the most, as I'm not sure how to get it as flat and smooth as possible without requiring a ton of filler and sanding.
  2. Opinions on basic/cheap wind instruments ?

    Those are the only wind instruments I've ever had on any of my boats.
  3. B&G Focus replacement

    Yeah I researched the situation too; called B&G. New stuff is not backward-compatible. Hopefully your access to where the transducer wiring was run isn't horrible. It wasn't that bad on my C&C. Had to remove part of my cabin sole and use the old wiring as messengers .
  4. So my wife's new boat, a C&C 26, has soft and significantly cracked cockpit locker lids. Previous owner had already tried some half-hearted reinforcement on the understand with no great success. I'm debating the best way to remedy: repair and reinforce the existing ones vs. Build new ones from scratch (likely using the old ones as plugs to make female molds. I'm not afraid of fiberglass work but I'm also not a master craftsman with a pro shop. I'm leaning toward repairing the existing ones. Thoughts?
  5. B&G Focus replacement

    I think you're shit out of luck. I had dead B&G Focus speed and depth instruments on my boat, couldn't find anything that was backwards-compatible with the transducers. Endes up ripping the whole mess out and replacing with Raymarine I90 instruments.
  6. 8 Bells for George Cuthbertson

    Love me some C&Cs. So much so that we just bought a second one - a vintage 26'er, which is now my wife's move-up boat. She goes to close on it tomorrow. I'm perplexed and saddened that you just don't see good racer/cruisers like these being built anymore, and I'm happy to be preserving and enjoying two two such examples. Fair winds, Mr. Cuthbertson, and thank you.
  7. Mast or boom furling?

    I don't get the "raising/lowering the mainsail is too much work" thing, but it is obviously highly prevalent as I see tons of boats out with just jib out (even in light air. I really don't get it. I've got conventional lazy jacks, batt cars, slab reefing, and full battens and I love it. Not once have I ever gone out without uncovering and hoisting the main, even for just a short daysail. I suppose if the day comes where I am no longer physically able to manage my conventional sail, I'd look at in-boom. Wouldn't touch in-mast.
  8. Show your boat sailing thread

    Recent pic from a couple weeks ago. My wife sailing her Capri 18, with me on our C&C in the background.
  9. Thoughts on Boom Tents

    I had a boom tent on our previous Sabre 28 and have one now on our current C&C. Love it. Nothing fancy, just a simple Sunbrella rectangle with grommets on all four edges. It's almost always up when we're on the mooring. Great sun & rain shelter, makes the cockpit feel cozy when just hanging out. Easily stands up to the 15-20+ kt breeze that often blows through here.
  10. Thanks for input all! I agree it's a rare event; 25 years and two boats with jib halyard snapshackles and this is the first time I've had one blow open. Nevertheless, it's still one more thing that can go wrong. And given that I can think of no compelling reason for a snapshackle on a jib halyard when exclusively using a furler, AND the fact that a simple bow shackle with screw pin is both cheaper and fool-proof, I think I'm pretty much done with snapshackles.
  11. I have not yet recovered the sky'd halyard. I've got three headsail halyards at the masthead. I just pulled the sail down so I could put a spare halyard on it and rehoisted. Nice trick recovering your spin halyard. Unfortunately my genoa's luff is full hoist, there's no strop on the halyard, and it appears the halyard sucked all the way into the mast with just the shackle itself stuck in the sheave. I can't even see it from the deck. I'm going to replace the one remaining unused halyard with a new one with a just a spliced eye (it's time anyway). Some calm morning I'll go up the mast to recover the sky'd halyard and rehoist the genoa again on the new halyard. Spongedeck: i dunno if it's customary or not to use a snapshackle on a halyard with a furler swivel. Like I said I never gave it any thought. Both this C&C and my Sabre before it had "quality" snapshackles on all the jib halyards. Now that I've been given cause to think about it, I'm thinking it's utterly pointless to have a snapshackle of any kind on a jib halyard that attaches to a furler swivel. Why would I ever care about wanting to be able to open it quickly? It's a more or less permanent connection.
  12. So my boats have always had jib halyards with the customary snap shackle on the working end, and this is something to which I never gave any thought. Until last weekend when I was out sailing. Single handed. And I decided I wanted to heave-to for a bit to take a lunch break. And as I made ready to reef down the big 145 genoa to facilitate heaving-to, there was a nice BANG! and the luff of the genoa suddenly went slack. Yep the damn snap shackle decided it was a good time to open. Henseforth, now all jib halyards shall have only a spliced eye with a moused bow shackle to the furler swivel. So let it be written. Bright side: now I know I can execute an unplanned, single-handed takedown & rehoist of the big gennie at sea.
  13. C&C 34+ keel bolts location

    Crap. Thanks man. You having problems with the bolts? I've been thinking of taking the mast step off before the rig gets stepped just to take a good look at them (something I haven't yet done).
  14. C&C 34+ keel bolts location

    I have a wing keel 34+. Yes there is one (maybe two) directly under the mast step casting. There are also at least two under the aftmost piece of cabin sole that's between the companionway steps and the removable bilge panels.
  15. Went to look at a Catalina 22....

    yep, PASS. Way too much $$$ for a sketchy project boat. C22s are everywhere.