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About zzrider

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    Super Anarchist

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    New England

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  1. zzrider

    Solar panel system, where to buy?

    It doesn't fold down; I didn't bother constructing it to fold because I never have a reason to fold it down. It just stays like that til the boat comes out of the water for the winter. Mounting hardware is off the shelf bimini bits: deck hinges, hinged rail clamps, a length of 1" SS tube, and eye tube end caps.
  2. zzrider

    Solar panel system, where to buy?

    You can fashion your own mounting solution as well with off-the-shelf hardware and stainless tubing. I did this with a 45w panel mounted to my stern pulpit: I used common SS bimini rail hardware and deck hinges, with a length of SS tube cut to length for the lower diagonal strut. This summer I'm going to expand on this idea with two larger (100w) panels mounted the same way on either side of the flip-down transom door.
  3. zzrider

    Proper technique for single handed jibes?

    Singlehanded gybing is kind of a drag on my boat because the end-boom sheeting, which is a 6:1 tackle, goes to a traveler that spans the cockpit immediately in front of the pedestal, and the bitter end leads out of the cam cleat at the bottom facing forward. This means that in order to sheet in all that line, I'd have to be standing in the forward part of the cockpit, facing backwards, with the mainsheet itself between myself and the wheel. I have not figured out a way to steer the boat facing backwards, handle the main, and avoid getting decapitated all at the same time. Oddly enough, my boat likes to gybe the genoa before the main. It usually collapses and I can gybe it to wing-on-wing well before the main wants to gybe. This does make gybing somewhat more elegant, I think. In light air, I stay behind the wheel, grab all 6 parts of the mainsheet and just help flip the boom to the other side and prevent all that loose sheet from snagging on the pedestal guard. In heavy air that maneuver would probably cost me an arm and a rig, so I tack. A boom-brake is on my wish list.
  4. This. 100% What you can reasonably unfuck single-handed is what really matters. This summer I had a day in just average "sporty" coastal conditions that made me real glad I've only got a 36'er. 12-15 building breeze, 2-4' swell, single-handing. Just as I was going to take a few wraps with the furler to reef the genoa (140%, about 400ft2), the jib halyard pops open. I don't even have an autopilot, so this was a good unplanned real-world opportunity to see what I can unfuck all by myself. I was able to pull the genoa down to the deck and secure it and probably could have done so with a bigger boat & sail, but that would have been the end of my day and I'd have been motoring back to the mooring at that point. But I wanted to see if I could recover, so I set about to rehoist it on a spare jib halyard. I could do it, but just barely. Countless trips back and forth between the foredeck and cockpit to feed the luff tape, take a few turns on the winch, and keep the boat head to wind. Back & forth & back & forth. I really doubt I could have done it with a bigger boat/headsail, and maybe not even with this boat if the conditions had been worse.
  5. The edge of the panel where the hinges are was, I think, the original source of the failed core along with the hinge through bolts. Along that hinge edge, the sandwich was left open and only filled with some fiber-thickened resin, which eventually cracked and failed and let water in. I''m going to follow the advice given and recore, leaning towards corecell foam. Will definitely glass in blocks of g10 where the hinge bolts are, as well as a narrow strip of g10 along the entire long hinge edge to better seal the core.
  6. Finally started doing something with these lids. I'm starting with the smaller port lid, which was ridiculously soft and felt like your foot would go right through it. The outside shows obvious cracking, which I think is only in the gelcoat & paint (at least I hope so). A previous owner's attempt at stiffening it from the underside was futile... just a couple pieces of tape glassed to the bottom... So, after removing the hinges I used a cutoff wheel in my dremel to cut through the inner skin. I just cut a perimeter all the way around, with a 1" margin on the side edges and a 2" margin on the outer edge. Looks like this opened up: Wow, yuck. Core was 1/4" balsa, and is soaking wet and about 90% delaminated. Scraped it off, looking better: Still have to dig out the remaining core left in the edges, and I'll probably cut back those inner skin margins a bit more now that I can see how deep the core went. Now that I've seen what I'm dealing with, my plan is to relaminate from the inside with epoxy & cloth, then fabricate some hollow longitudinal stiffener ribs and glass them to the underside. Then, sand the outer skin, pray the cracking is only in the gelcoat, then fill & paint. So far so good!
  7. Looks good Ajax. I recall discussing this installation a while ago on another thread about solar. I can imagine the larger rigid glass panels being quite heavy. I've presently got one smallish hanging on the back of my boat... It's a 45w Solartech SPM045P-F. It's 21" X 26" and 11# so not difficult to remove. I designed the mounting arrangement so it was easy to unplug and remove, but I never do until the boat's hauled and about be covered for the winter. Still intend to duplicate this setup on the other side of the pushput next season. Really love MPPT controllers too; The little Genasun GV-4 easily extracts more than the panel's rated maximum current from it.
  8. zzrider

    Standing rigging: pressed-in pin?

    So it turns out this wasn't such a big deal. One of the pins pushed right out after some PB Blaster and a few lights taps with a hammer. The other one is being more of a bitch but at least with one out, I was able to pull the spreader base rod all the way out of the mast and I'll deal with the second pin at home.
  9. Looking for recommendations for a reputable boat yard to do a rudder rebuild over the winter. Rudder is already out of the boat and I can bring it pretty much anywhere in MA, NH, RI, or CT. Anyone have any local experience they'd like to share?
  10. zzrider

    1/2" seacocks?

    Damn, good point, that does look like a reducer under the barb! Feel like an idiot now, hadn't noticed that. Will have to measure the actual valve. I know marelon valves are fine, but like I said I'm not a fan of the marelon valves on our other boat. Just a personal preference. And I like that you can get rebuild kits for bronze ones.
  11. zzrider

    1/2" seacocks?

    Another item on the to-do list for our '76 C&C 26 rehab... seacocks & thru-hulls Let's start with the engine raw water intake. This is what it currently looks like: The valve still operates just fine and there is no sign of leaking but it is 40 years old and I'm trying to be proactive here. First off, what's the urgency in replacing this whole mess? Is this what would be considered a "standpipe" deal? It certainly isn't the flanged, through-bolted seacock that I'm accustomed to. There is a strainer on the outside of the hull since this is the intake. I read Ajax's thread about the standpipe in his boat's head sink drain, and I got alot of good info from that, but I'm curious about the sizing of this: it's only 1/2", and apparently nobody makes a flanged 1/2" seacock (correct me if I'm wrong here). So, it then appears I'd be looking at reboring the hole in the hull for a 3/4" through-hull and then using a reducer for the 1/2" intake hose to the raw water pump. Which leads to another question - is it OK to use a marelon reducer and thread barb on top of a bronze seacock? (I'm pretty set on using bronze seacocks, I'm not a fan of the marelon seacocks on our other boat).
  12. zzrider

    Standing rigging: pressed-in pin?

    I like the improvised clamp-press idea! I suppose it might be a loose fit; the spreader brackets themselves are a mess too but that's another issue. Will probably post on cncphotoalbum too. I do like that site but it bums me out that you can't search the entire archive because it's an ancient email digest sort of system.
  13. New boat, new questions. So I'm going over th rig on my wife's new boat, a '76 C&C 26, and I'm puzzled by the upper terminal connections for the lower shrouds. The shroud has a normal swaged eye, but it's held in the spreader bracket by a smooth flush pin that appears to be pressed-in. The pin is smooth on both ends so I'm assuming its not threaded in. See pic. So before I go at this with a hammer, is there anything I should know about this sort of pin? Will the pin be reusable? If not, how would one locate new parts? The size has to be exact because it must finish flush with the spreader bracket - the spreader goes down over it. Thoughts?
  14. Ok so here's a shot of the worst of the two, the port lid: You can clearly see the extensive cracking in the outer skin near the forward hinge. Like I said, this lid is VERY soft and broken down. It's particularly bad around the hinges. I don't think this exterior surface can be salvaged. Here's the underside of the same lid: A PO had obviously made a failed attempt at an earlier repair, having laminated in a couple strips of fiberglass cloth tape to the bottom. It did't do much good. The starboard lid is bad too, but not as bad as this one. So here's my thoughts on fixing these: 1) Grind down the inner skin and remove the failed core (which was very thin and obviously insufficient in the first place). I'm hoping the outer skin has enough residual integrity left to at least act as a substrate for laying down my new inner laminate. 2) Epoxy in new layers of cloth, followed by probably 3 longitudinal stiffening ribs, which I will have already fabricated in epoxy & cloth. Let cure. 3) Flip it over, grind off failed outer skin, relaminate with cloth & epoxy. 4) Let cure, fair exterior surface 5) Finish with paint and nonskid, accepting that it won't match the rest of the cockpit. Fortunately the edges, corners, and bearing surfaces were the lid sits on the hatch support perimeter are solid, so I'm hoping I won't have to grind away and relaminate any of that complexity. Sound about right? Doing the outer top surface is obviously the part that worries me the most, as I'm not sure how to get it as flat and smooth as possible without requiring a ton of filler and sanding.
  15. zzrider

    Opinions on basic/cheap wind instruments ?

    Those are the only wind instruments I've ever had on any of my boats.