• Announcements

    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

davesimon

Members
  • Content count

    50
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About davesimon

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Detroit, MI
  1. This is the culmination for the Artemis work....we may do other films with other (non-sailing) clients in the future. Thanks for noting the production quality...the guys worked hard at it.
  2. Hi, Full disclosure: I work for Altair with the title of VP - Corporate Communications. We are a technical supplier to Artemis Racing, and just released a 12-minute film about their program and use of simulation to achieve performance. Film is here: http://www.designthedifference.com/ No claims of groundbreaking content for sailors immersed in the sport, definitely an interesting watch. Thanks, Dave
  3. Take it all apart and take pictures. You may end up with some new delrin or other mechanical pieces, and/or either re-epoxying or re-5200-ing something in place. It is probably cramped and crowded back there and will be painful to disassemble. You will be glad you did. While you are at it - now is the time to repair and replace anything else in the steering system that is not working correctly or has worn - replace cables, check all the bolts, etc. Preventive maintenance on the steering system is 75% labor getting back there and taking the stuff apart, 20% labor to fix whatever needs fixing, and maybe 5% cost. Hence go into the take-apart with the view that you are going to make it good for the long-term. As you are cursing how cramped and inaccessible everything is, just keep congratulating yourself on making sure you never ever have to go back there while the boat is under way.
  4. First suspect is the mounting of the bearings (whatever they are- maybe just a fiberglass tube) to the hull/deck/cockpit floor/etc. Take it apart, take pictures, and chances are the fix will be relatively easy and successfully get the play out.
  5. Interprotect 2000 is a great barrier coat that will sand to a very smooth polish. It needs to be put on in several microthin layers. Read the directions and follow them carefully. DO NOT try to use it as a filler. What you see on the fairing compound finish is about as good as you will hope to see with the barrier coat, so spend a lot of time getting the fairing done properly. If you put on IP2000 layers thicker than the very very thin ones specified you will have a gooey mess. If you put multiple thin layers on as specified you can do multiple coats in a day (cover the pan with aluminum foil to preserve the mix between coats), sand to an extremely smooth finish, and the little interlocking molecules will do their protection thing for many years.
  6. Oops..apologies....I actually agree and miswrote. Trandsucrs+CPU put out NMEA. . Jut replacing the displays. It is not reasonable (in the near term) to broadcast Wireless NMEA from every transducer. It is maybe getting reasonable to replace displays with cheap tablets.
  7. Following the thread hijack....we are realizing our Raymarine ST290 is out of date and a bit rare in terms of old gear availability. We installed a Digital Yacht wireless NMEA network (around $300) and put a couple of $137 10" android tablets running SeaWi for display, Marine Navigator for navigation, and SailGrib WR for routing on board. Our vision of the future has transducers putting out NMEA data and boats using cheap tablets in waterproof cases instead of expensive custom-built displays. While anybody can walk on with a phone or laptop and get data streaming, it only takes one person with a TCP setting instead of "UDP Multicast" to shut everyone else off from receiving. The guy who brought his laptop with Expedition installed on board found it easier to plug in to the NMEA output cable at the Nav station. We have mostly used the tablets for navigation, not as display substitutes. Most of the display use was for below decks and we haven't replaced any above decks displays with a tablet. But when a Raymarine wireless multifunction display is $500+, and a 7" no-brand tablet can be had off of Amazon for under $50 - cal lit $75 with a waterproof case - it seems like we are on a path toward making sure the transducers put out a good NMEA wireless broadcast and then using whatever device makes sense at the time to display and read it.
  8. Just finished a full season of no antifouling paint with our new-to-us Beneteau 36.7 in Lake St. Clair (just upstream of Captain Graybeard) and some time in Huron and Michigan. Bottom is VC Performance, great hard smooth bottom, and it would have to be removed in order to get VC 17 to stick. Feeling pretty good about no antifouling paint based on a program as follows: 1) Weekly use of a Scrubbis http://oceanracing.com/scrubbis-set/ with white Scotchbrite pads (analogous to 1200 grit) lashed to the foam head for the tougher slime. 2) Swim the bottom myself/crew with a max interval of every two weeks and no more than 48 hours pre-race, using the white Scotchbrites and doing a perfect bottom-of-keel to waterline job every time. Even with perfect bottom paint we would swim before every race so my number of swims hasn't gone up from the previous boat. Estimate of 12 swims this year. 3) Five professional dives through the year. Cost of the 5 dives is not much more than the cost of bottom paint, and certainly less than bottom paint + labor of someone who would put it on better than I would. At 17 professional dives it would be more pricey but not insane, especially given the initial prep work my bottom would require and the probable continued escalation of bottom paint cost and regulations, so once I get really tired of swimming our plan is more professional dives, not antifouling, Growth rate of Great Lakes slime is not linear. As Captain Graybeard said - "BOOM" - it is very sudden once it gets a foothold in any one spot and it proliferates quickly. Hence using the Scrubbis on the waterline, rudder, and other sun-exposed spots at every opportunity really helped keep things down to a minimum. Having a white bottom also doesn't let anything hide - brown paint can hide slime but look clean. Finally, much appreciation to my wife who went out on the boat with me at 6:30 a.m. on several occasions because that's when the water was flat and clear.
  9. +1 on the IP2000. Believe and follow the directions on doing many very thin coats. If you do that it will dry fast and hard and the final coat can be sanded super smooth. If you try to get away with less coats and/or use it as a filler you will have a gooey mess. You can cover a roller pan batch with aluminum foil between coats.
  10. +1 on the barrier coat. Congrats on wife and boat. VC Performance is great if you never plan to use an AF paint - it's what we have on our boat - but it contains teflon and will not allow paint to grip to it. Doing a great barrier coat job with Interlux 2000 (my recommendation) is not hard provided that you believe the instructions when they talk about the micro-thin layers. It is not a filler - use a filler like Interlux Watertite Epoxy Filler YAV135 for filling and fairing - so don't try to put the barrier coat on in any sort of thickness. Get the bottom perfect with the filler, then plan on 5+ micro-thin layers of the Interlux 2000. You can mix a quantity and cover the roller pan with aluminum foil between coats (it dries really quickly when properly applied in thin layers). polish it to a perfect bottom, then if/when you want AF use a very thin application of VC 17 every season.
  11. Several years ago an ambitious kid set a goal to medal in Rio and did everything he could to get there, surmounting big obstacles on and off the water. This week a good man made that goal come true. That medal race was a stellar athletic performance. Hard work, grit, determination, and the mind of a winner won the day. Heartfelt congratulations and utmost respect from Detroit.
  12. White Water Marine in Port Huron, MI. http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/ These guys are awesome and deserving of every bit of business they get, and their website advertises 48-hour shipping on most stanchion styles. They made us a new stanchion for a great price in a very short time between the Super Mac and PH Mac last year, and while they make for a bunch of OEM guys (including I believe J-boats) and have a tidy production operation going on they were extremely friendly to a stinky tired guy showing up at their door in need. A+++
  13. Got it sorted out today and as usual I self inflicted damage on plumbng. Did pressure test with gauge in place of new pressure relief valve. System would pump up to 40psi then hot water tank would hiss and pressure drop to 25psi in a couple of minutes at which point pump would kick back on. The fitting where the pressure relief valve screws in has a crack in its weld to the main tank and water was squirting out. Based on the lack of wetted out insulation I am convinced that the first pressure relief valve was in fact faulty, and that when I replaced it with the new one that extra turn with the big wrench (why oh why do I always do that?) cracked what may have been a less than perfect weld. Tank is out, buddy who welds aluminum wil fix it tomorrow, and reinstallation shouldn't be too painful.
  14. After racing this weekend will fill tanks, check pressure on tank and elsewhere in system, wiggle new valve copiously (assuming we don't measure over 150 psi pressure), make sure there is no sludge coming through, and report back. Didn't post to owners' group (here is where I admit to not being on facebook)...but we do have a bunch here and nobody I talked with had had run into it before. Full report next week. Thanks,
  15. Yep, only puzzler in this case is that it will be bad brand-new-out-of-the-box. Will take video of the valve letting go, and then the pressure gage inserted in the same fitting, and that should satisfy the "..only seen a bad one out of the box a couple of times in 25 years.." thing.