guerdon

Probably the single most important aspect of carbon fiber is its' stiffness. Loading stress flows like water, so if you can visualize where and how the stiffness changes you will allow for the transition from flexible to stiff without cracking. Good luck to you.

God bless you.

People that choose to row are special, and clever folks will never understand them. Row Lia. You are making memories that are earned by effort, not guile.

John Letcher, did some wonderful work. Spread the word about the boat it is way better than it should be.

Meat, If she needs help have her contact me in S.B. Guerdon Smith 805 569-3996. Wish her good luck.

Kenny, you get what I was trying to explain. Prussic works best it the Jack line has a soft hand and the prussic is also "grippy", then it just slides with you until under load. If it is short you never go far from its' central core. My favorite aspect is that it has omnidirectional loading. Aloha, Guerdon.

Many 1/4 ton boats fit the bill. SJ24 was very easy to tack, and the traveler was out of the cockpit.

I thought the 5.8 was Nacras best boat[Except for the R36, which is a beast]. My wife was sacred raising the mas t[go slow]. Repair is straight forward. Use no seize lube on the crossbeams. Have fun. Skip Elliot makes great sails for it.

Bag, you are correct about the reflector. Ours was named the Whaley whale, Russell, called his Mr.Blimpie. In the high tech world of G32, no cost is spared for strategic advantage. All in for PT Watercraft, with its lush budget and massive support crew, victory should be certain [unless he gets eaten buy a bear].

Sorry, I was not clear, the prussic knot goes on the Jackline and is clipped into with the harness line. If you use a jack line with a soft fuzz cover the knot grips as soon as a load is put on it. When the harness line is slack you just slide as you need it. With this setup you cannot go more than 4' under load. I have used it for 40+ years. Good luck.

Centerline jack line with double prussic knots and carabiners on both ends of the harness, all the time. You will not go off the boat, ever.

The H33, has a lot of Phil Edwards' design touches. It feels like a joint effort like the H18. Surfers rule.

Russell, you are hardly a jerk. If anyone suffers fools, it is you. Good luck in R2AK. Aloha, Guerdon.

Mr.Moon, as a designer and builder of many dories I have seen many converted to sliding seats. The only one I have seen that was OK was a fiberglass splash of Phil Bolgers lovely gull. The dory is ideal for short oars and fixed seat propulsion. When you "improve" it with longer oars, riggers, and a sliding seat you will miss the historical reason for their longevity. They are meant to be rowed long distances with your body mass. Your sore tail is a result of trying to make the geometry of a sprinting shell fit into a load hauler. It is very hard to do well because they are at odds and the geometry never seems to work out. Another factor is the waves in the sea cause long oared shells to roll violently which also fatigues your butt. I hope this helps you.

Mr.Moon, when you row with a fixed seat you use the mass of your body to move your oars, not the muscles in your body. Your tailbone shouldn't be touching the fixed seat, it slightly overhangs the thwart. If you have seat padding that matches your own natural butt density you can go all day. This is why working boats never use sliding seats. It is slightly slower so sprinters use their muscles and burn along with complex devices that increase leverage. I learned this from John Gardener, at Mystic. George Pocock, understood sprinting rigging. Both have written excellent books on rowing.