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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About Fretz

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  1. sweetness?

    What is the boat? Looks to be shoal draft and gorgeous.
  2. sweetness?

    What is this sweetness on the front page??? http://sealaunay.photoshelter.com/gallery-image/Arcachon-Bay/G00004L.1O12_Y3g/I0000Jnz2D2az91s
  3. Douse tube Chute max size

    Were pulling a 550 sq ft spin into a sock. The hole in the foredeck is not much bigger than a toilet seat and the sock is about 15' long. Current set up is one patch in the middle of the sail. Previously we ran through a grommet before hitting the patch. One patch is easier to pull down. In my experience it works way better than pulling it down hand over hand until something goes wrong. Then the douse line is a problem. It also makes swapping chutes on the water next to impossible.
  4. replacing the deck on a 20 foot cc

    Regular member and poster on classicmako.com. Not a fan of the seacraft site. A bunch of primadonnas (more than here!). Though i like the seacrafts the prices for a 40 year old disaster are getting steep. What amazes me is the standards that these guys go rebuilding these things. Considering how they were put together originally and how long they last i just don't see the point of going overboard. A fresh coat of awlgrip covers a lot of sins!
  5. replacing the deck on a 20 foot cc

    http://www.classicaquasport.com/smf/ http://www.classicmako.com/ There are projects that run the range from quick and dirty to gold star. Were doing a smaller floor replacement in a 20' robalo this winter. Ill probably use corecell with biax/matt 1708? on either side. I like epoxy below the waterline but above the waterline poly is fine.
  6. Interlux Hell

    The comment of not painting a dingy is valid. Dollies docks and beaches are hard on a bottom and even the best paint job will take a beating. Gelcoat would be better. We did a topside paint job on a 20' powerboat this spring. I reluctantly bought a new 6" Bosch 6.5amp random orbit sander to start the job. Sometimes we need a reminder that great tools are worth the money. With a soft pad and a case of paper it removed the paint and prepped the gelcoat with no fuss. I did use 3M long boards where the decals and registration numbers were but thats it. In my case buying the right tool to prep it the 1st time was cheaper than painting it twice. The job is done and I still have the sander for the next project. A Taser is small enough that you could rent the sander and finish in a day. Ive rolled and tipped perfection and I've rolled it without tipping. Ive also had someone with the proper equipment help spray awlgrip. If you can spray the time you save is worth it as you can do multiple coats in one day.
  7. Best Sailing Sunglasses??

    I need new glasses so ill be checking a few on this list. Anything new to add? Ive used natives for years with good success. My primary issue is i'm trimming jib on a scow so in anything over 12 my primary responsibility is to shield the crew from the spray every 3rd wave. Eventually i cant see the bow let alone a puff or shift further up the course. Any experience with rain-ex? Ive heard it will damage the coatings on lenses and ive heard it works great. I don't know what to believe... Thanks
  8. 5-6mm Spin Halyard/Takedown Experience

    thanks for all the suggestions and tips for a proper coil. We'll use them elsewhere back on topic... line suggestions fliteline ultralite endura anything else? 5-6mm tapered Thanks!
  9. 5-6mm Spin Halyard/Takedown Experience

    The sock is close to 15' long and ends right at the transom so there really isn't any room to pull the slack out with a floating block or ring. The blocks are all lined up and fixed in place. Tying the 2 bowlines every week is something I didn't think of. Were really in search of some mythical line that probably costs more than a jib and doesn't twist at this point.
  10. 5-6mm Spin Halyard/Takedown Experience

    The halyard is just loose in the boat and uncoiled when the chute is rigged. One end is tied to the head of the spin and the other is tied to the retrieval patch. When the chute is de rigged the two ends have a 2'overlap and are tied together at the launcher. When its rigged there is about 15' of slack in the cockpit. Were looking for a line that runs easily through the blocks and doesn't develop twists. Endura by new England was one suggestion but I wanted to see if anyone had any others before pulling the trigger.
  11. We sail an E-scow that uses a asymmetric spinnaker with a launcher/sock that runs down the center of the boat. The take down line is the tail of the Spin halyard and we have chutes with 1 and 2 patches. I've used Coppa 3000 and FSE Robline Dingy Control for the spin halyard over the last 2 years. We taper the end that attaches to the chute only for about 12'. Both lines work well but they could twist into knots if we don't make a consistent effort to run the line before setting up the chute for the day. When we drop the mast to travel we remove the halyard and run out the twists out 2-3 times a season. At the end of the year the cover gets fairly loose on the core and the twisting gets worse. What line should we be looking at for 2016?
  12. Front Page - Jersey Shore - E Boats

    Thanks for the compliment BobBill! For those of you don't go to the front page here is a link the E Scow Fleet is really proud of. http://sailinganarchy.com/2015/12/14/jersey-shore/ Fair warning... This is almost 1-1/2 hours covering a 3 day national championship. It is not a 5 min highlight reel. What we like the most is that it really gets into the why we do it vs the who placed where. It shows a great group of people who like going fast. It is absolutely worth your time and we hope you enjoy it. Fretz
  13. frank bethwaite: High performance sailing

    I am looking for some reading on asymetric sail theory and technique. Is this the book to buy?