T sailor

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About T sailor

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
  1. Thanks for all the replies. My main motivator is that the boats I'm interested are very rare in the US (Scandinavian cruiser-racers). Talon- sending you a PM to learn more about your pain. Cheers, T
  2. Nice! Good list. Any firsthand experience?
  3. Import duty is only 1.5%. Not enough to deter this thought. Biggest question is shipping costs and how much of a pain it is to get the boat loaded/unloaded.
  4. With the dollar where it is and the plethora of seemingly nice and reasonably priced boats in Europe, this seems awfully tempting. Anyone done something like this? For the sake of discussion, looking at 40'ers. There are a lot more interesting boats there than in the US and the prices seem good even factoring $20k to ship it to the east coast. Pitfalls?
  5. Given current exchange rates, I would go Euro this year. Austria is generally cheaper than Fra and Swiss resorts. Pick one of the higher resorts and you should be good. Lech is cool with less of a rowdy scene than St. Anton. what are your abilities and priorities? Skiing anywhere in Euro land is a really different and cool experience compared to here. I have not skied in France but have done Switzerland and Austria, as well as most of the majors out West. I always love skiing in Europe.
  6. So I just acquired a few year old beachcat and have some small hairline cracks in the gelcoat on the front and back of the dagger board trunk. The laminate seams good but is there anyway of telling if the underlying glass is damaged? The cracks are kinda strange in that the run fore and aft for about 4-5" then curve outward (almost 90 degrees) for another 4" (maybe where there is a bulkhead). Too me it seems like the hull was overloaded sideways and caused the cracks. My gut thinks it is just stress cracks in the gelcoat but wanted some other input. Any thoughts, suggestions? Thanks T
  7. I've worked in commercial glazing for 15 years and have spent $$$$$$$ on silicone over the years, including Dow 795. 795 was designed as an all purpose structural and weather sealant. 795 develops good adhesion to mill finish aluminum, however Dow won't warrant it in structural applications to mill aluminum. Now this is in the application of holding glass on the side of a sky scraper so they are pretty conservative in their requirements. From my experience and testing I would have no worries going to mill or anodized aluminum. For added adhesion you can treat the Alu with alodine. I would not paint the Alu. Getting good paint adhesion to the Alu is not trivial and then 795 can be finicky on painted surfaces and may need primer. Another sealant that I like and seams to be less finicky in application is Pecora 890 and 895. Dow also makes a stronger 1 part sealant called 995. Have never tested 995 on mill finish. If you are really concerned you can do some peel adhesion tests, but they take about 10 days to get the sealant to cure out before you can pull on the sealant. If you want more info shoot me a pm. I am on my phone and can't type a lot.
  8. Sounds like you are off to a good start. A's are superfun! My only real advice is that when you capsize, your first reaction needs to be to get ahold of something attached to the boat. These things can go 3 knots on their side which is faster than you can swim in gear. As soon as I hit the water, I'm reaching for something to keep me with the boat. Good luck and have fun! Cheers, T
  9. Actually, looking at it more closely, I think it is a Lerouge design. Maybe a Mia 160. The mast base arrangement looks like his other boats.
  10. Looping. I think there are both 60's and 54's made.
  11. Thanks Bob, I thought the hull shape looked like that, but I did not know it was ever made in a center cockpit. Did Stan Huntingford work for you? I thought maybe it was a Tanton design since I just recently discovered some of his double Enders. There seem to be a few unique iterations of his 42-44' er's around. Cheers, T
  12. What kind of boat is that? Take the dodger away and the boat looks nice.
  13. Believe it or not, I think the traveler ease may be a contributing factor. My experience is limited to beachcats, but with the kite up you cannot ease the traveler more than 50% of the range (about 2' is max on a Nacra 20) without the masthead dropping way off. Most stories I heard of N20 mast failures were double trap spin reaching with the sheet tight, but traveler eased. If you draw a load diagram of the mast and show the mast head loading with the main centered vs with the traveler eased you can see that easing the traveler some starts to align the leach loading with the loading of the gennaker halyard (halyard pulls primarily to leeward). Essentially the leach of the becomes less of a backstay and more of a leeward load. I would experiment a little to see the mast movement when you start traveling down to figure out when things are starting to look wrong. Just my opinion so take it for what it's worth. Good luck!
  14. Just to clarify, 25k was for a basic kit (hulls, beams, ama's). I am figuring another 20k to finish (hardware, rig, sails, finishes). Cheers, T
  15. Hi ian, Great looking project! I noticed you changed the bow and stern profiles on the ama's. Are there any other subtle differences between the production boat and the original plan boat? The ama's look great and the sAme bow profile would look good on the main hull. I am also curious, what level of finish is the basic kit going to be? Gelcoat finish or just primer? Will the interior bulkheads and furniture panels be installed? Interior paint? I hope to be ordering a kit when they become available and am curious how you are going to be able to keep the price low. Given the cost of the materials, coupled with a couple hundred man hours of labor and 25k disappears quickly. Thanks for all the updates and info! Cheers, T