ice9a

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About ice9a

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  1. ice9a

    'Bulking' a halyard... best practices?

    Personally, I think adding internal core is the nicest way to go - smoothest and no possibility of ever slipping or bunching up. And it's no harder to do. how-to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzsvFz6a_ts
  2. ice9a

    Terminating Dyneema cored yacht braid

    Are you still playing WOW?
  3. Do you know where the loaded (with cruising load) waterline is relative to the top lip seal? My last boat had a lip seal on rudder shaft which was fine for multiple 100k miles, but the seal was 15cm above the water line, so it was really there just to stop splashing - could totally fail and the boat would not sink. I wonder how difficult it would be to put a boot on this, clamped to the outside of that bearing housing, running up as high as possible (to just below the quadrant or autopilot tiller arm), ideally with some sort of light seal up there, but really not necessary (if it is high enough). Put a little drain into the boot if no top seal, and just drain it before passages. You would think such a boot would require taking the top bearing (and quadrants, etc) apart to slide down, and that would be best . . . . but it will be under no pressure and I suspect it would not be hard to do even without disassembling anything - glue, heat weld, or bolt clamp a vertical seam in the boot, perhaps even a double wrap on the boot with a wide strip of velcro on the outer wrap would do the job (for a year or two). Something along these lines would not be too hard to do (without haul-out) and would contain any leak (and the resulting potential oil mess) and would give me peace of mind. On the bigger issue of rudder design for cruising, with little relevance to your situation - got to say I personally loved having an absolutely bulletproof spade with bearing above the waterline - we banged that rudder hard into rocks a couple of times and it was not going to break (we did once bend a small section of the tip and once a very small deflection in the shaft), and it was super easy to drop when we needed to (I did it a couple of times single handed just sitting in a slip) and I installed a new one in chile (with better spade shape) sitting in a slip.
  4. ice9a

    Terminating Dyneema cored yacht braid

    This is the correct answer. But if you really somehow don't have time even to whip/stitch it then - about an inch of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing is a super fast and reliable termination
  5. ice9a

    Line winder/reel for small diameter dyneema

    >>If I painstakingly put it into a bag from the back to front, it comes out OK The trick for 'tangle-free' bags is they should be 'tall and narrow' - eg the opposite of a duffle bag shape. If they are quite tall and narrow you can just stuff in and it will come out smoothly and tangle free. They should be at least 3:1 (height to mouth) ratio, and 4:1 is better. A (properly shaped) bag is a ton lighter and easier to stow than a reel. I sew them with a wire around the mouth to hold it open (actually just a little down from the top edge so you can still have a drawstring around the end to close it) - but that is not really needed.
  6. ice9a

    Introducing the "Crown Jewels Soft Shackle"

    for anyone interested in low friction ring strop details/testing - this is now completed - http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2910501#post2910501 Below is text of last post (minus pics): "Ok, the final round of results on low friction ring strops. I carefully made two endless loops (more careful attention to bury taper than before), with tapered whipping (looser than before to allow strand equalization) - and got 19,000lbs (352% of strand strength) and 18,000lbs (333%). They both broke on the 3/4" pin. The whipping did not break nor slide. The stronger broke 24/24 strands on 1st sample and 22/24 in the second (pic below) which shows decent strand equalization. So lesson learned - Strength here is mostly about good careful splicing (bury, taper, and strand equalization) and not so much about exactly which design is used to capture the LFR - however, the tapered whipping IMHO offers the least complexity to achieving that good splice hygiene (especially the strand equalization). You can almost double the strength by taking great care (I was still using only the tools a DIYer would have, for instance, did not use hydraulics to pre-set/tension/equalize). But even the 'average care' samples were still greatly strong, strong enough for most yachting applications. I personally would not use the 'cow hitch to ring' design, but all the other main options are perfectly reasonable. My personal favorite is the double loop with tapered whipping - but I sort of like the art of whipping. Then we pulled three webbing samples - two with Dyneema stitching to capture the ring and one 'loose'/basket style on the ring. They were all extremely consistent 10,000-11,000lbs - interesting the stitching to capture the ring did not affect the strength noticeably. These are dead easy to make (climbing loops where the main/critical joining stitching is already done at the factory), highly reliable, less sensitive to bend radius on like small bail padeyes than using rope. Seems like quite an efficient solution for someone who just wants to get the job done well and is not totally in love with rope work. Finally, I did two more of the bullseye soft shackles, using extra care to get strand equalization. The diamond version went to 155%, still lower than I can make a diamond soft shackle probably because I still find the strand equalization trickier with the low friction ring in place. And the Button (with bury) was 200% again a bit lower than my usual shackle result. But both are strong (enough for almost all applications) and do offer easier attachment/moving around. I think that completes the LFR strop survey."
  7. called an estar shackle (after the guy who came up with it) - invented right here on SA. The button with bury is a bit better construction, but this one is easier.
  8. What? The required permit is for a specific event, which has to be described in some detail in the application. So it is very clearly a state permit for a racing event. And Maritime Queensland very clearly knows that sail races are conducted under the RRS - these are the official rules of the state recognized authority for sailing racing. So, all of this is very clear and very clearly state recognized and permitted. Now if you are saying that the state is requiring permits which violate its own laws - well that is a different kettle. That's the state's problem in court, not the OA's nor the participant's problem (who have all agreed to follow the RRS) - they have done what was required by the state to run their event per their rules.
  9. Since they have a permit from the state specifically permitting racing, and the specific rules of racing (which I quoted above) allow the OA to decide. You can dance on the head of a pin all you want, but if it went to court that is the only logically consistent decision.
  10. so you are certain that: "a. Between the times of local sunset and sunrise, RRS Part 2, WHEN BOATS MEET is replaced with Part B, Steering and Sailing Rules of the International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea (“IRPCAS”)." is not text from a pretty prestigious race's SI? lol
  11. yes, correct. It is not uncommon for SI's (of offshore races) to state that colregs will apply at night.
  12. are all the races conducted using the WS RRS? If so, and the SI's don't have a specific prescription re part 2 - then it's pretty basic between racing vessels and non-racing vessels the colregs apply; and between racing vessels, the RRS apply. "The rules of Part 2 apply between boats that are sailing in or near the racing area and intend to race, are racing, or have been racing. However, a boat not racing shall not be penalized for breaking one of these rules, except rule 14 when the incident resulted in injury or serious damage, or rule 24.1. When a boat sailing under these rules meets a vessel that is not, she shall comply with the International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea (IRPCAS) or government right-of-way rules. If the sailing instructions so state, the rules of Part 2 are replaced by the right-of-way rules of the IRPCAS or by government right-of-way rules." If they are not using the RRS, then who knows - you would need to produce the rules they are using.
  13. Just FYI - pull test results on various LFR strop designs: http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/low-friction-ring-strop-methods-survey-219050.html
  14. ice9a

    Race boat flooring

    Core options (from here, great guys but really expensive): Sandwich Products Stiffness to Weight Toughness Crushability Moisture Resistance Birch Core BETTER BEST BEST GOOD Balsa Core BETTER GOOD BETTER POOR Nomex Honeycomb Core BEST GOOD BETTER BETTER Depron Foam Core BETTER POOR POOR BETTER Airex Foam Core BEST GOOD GOOD BETTER Dinvinycell Foam Core BETTER BETTER BETTER BETTER Last-A-Foam Core BETTER BETTER BETTER BETTER Dyneema Core GOOD BEST BEST BEST Kevlar Core GOOD BEST BEST GOOD
  15. Quick plastic rod primer: Use Outdoor Hardness Tensile Slippery low Water absorption Delrin / Acetal No Hard (R117) Good (8000psi) Very Good Good UHMW No Medium (65D) Poor (4500psi) Very Good Excellent black nylon Yes Hard (R110) Good (10000psi) Very Good Poor PEEK No Hard (R126) Excellent (15000psi) Good to Vary Good Poor PTFE Yes Medium (55D) Poor (3000psi) Very Good Excellent Garolite No Extra Hard (M115) Excellent (40,000psi) Smooth Good Polyester Yes Hard (M95) Good (11000psi) Very Good Good Good source: https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-round-plastic-solid-rods