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    X41 vs J/122

    The 44’s here all had larger bearings installed to accommodate the larger diameter needed for a carbon fibre shaft. Sorry no photos of the 44’s rudders, will take a few of our when it’s built but I’ll need to check with the designer first. We are sticking with a stainless shaft with a 2mm larger dia as we could increase the lower bearing by 2mm retaining the existing housing. X-Yachts supply an anode that sits on the shaft between the rudder and lower bearing for areas where salinity is high and therefore needs protection. The rudder shaft itself isn’t bonded to the electrical system hence the need for the anode.

    X41 vs J/122

    XP44 has a stainless stock, the X50 an aluminium stock. That enabled them to accommodate a carbon stock without doing bearings or housings from what I’ve been told on Wax Lyrical. The 3 XP44’s here in Sydney have all replaced their rudders with carbon versions designed by Andy Dovell, not for stock corrosion issues but performance improvements. Several have also had their keels reprofiled to get better lift and upwind speeds. We are presently having a new rudder made for our XP38, due to stock corrosion. Seems our rudder anode wore out early. Have also gone with a Dovell design but retaining a stainless stock as we recently did upper and lower bearings and did not want to replace them again. Still a few weeks away from installation but looking forward to testing it out when racing resumes.

    Installing a new teak deck on a plastic deck

    X-Yachts offer most of their current boats with teak deck options. Most have teak in the cockpit as standard and you can then specify teak on the side decks and cabin top as an option when ordering. Our XP38 we ordered with teak, it sits flush with the hatches etc in all areas. Friends of ours ordered an XP44 without teak, the cabin top and decks also fit flush to the hatches etc but its glass not teak. So I suspect X-Yachts might have 2 cabin top moulds, one for teak and one without..... Not sure on the X4.3 have not had a look at the one in Aus. If you are in Denmark then getting an answer should not be an issue unless its summer holidays in which case they are simply not available to respond FYI if having teak = letting it go grey then save the weight. We use a sealer called Semco Natural and it looks like the day the boat was purchased (now 7 years old).
  4. I'd honestly suggest you stay miles away from this tri-sensor. We had one installed in our new yacht 6 years ago as part of a Raymarine package and it was replaced 4 times under warranty (with us paying haulage for 2 of those) before we demanded a solution from Raymarine which was only resolved after getting our fair trading people involved. Issue on all 4 occasion was the flap that prevents water gushing in when you change the transducer falls out and you get firehosed every time you remove it after sailing. We now have a standard Depth and seperate Speed/Temp which are connected to the network with an iTC5 box, its been in the boat for 2 years now with no issues. Yes it did involve another hole in the boat but it works every time. FYI I know of 4 other local yachts with similar issues to ours in the same time frame.

    Attaching genny sheets

    Have been using soft shackles for the last couple of years, very happy with them.

    3Di Endurance experience (other options?)

    We took delivery of a new 3Di Raw light medium jib this year. Its a wonderful sail, boat flys with it! Only issue I have is firstly the batten system is not really club racer friendly as the battens get tightened with a screwdriver. Something about the crew bouncing around on the foredeck with a screwdriver near an expensive sail concerns me:) Also with the dark colour of the sail it makes seeing the leeward telltales very difficult. I would certainly buy another one when needed, but I'll pay more attention to the batten system being offered before finalising the order.

    Perry Sliver Class Day Sailor

    Not older, just sensible. We have power winches on our 38" yacht and it makes short handed sailing so much more enjoyable.

    Perry Sliver Class Day Sailor

    We have 2 of these on our yacht, good displays. Only issue we have is they are very close to where the mainsheet is operated from, as such the buttons get knocked and the screens get changed around. Wish Raymarine would enable a 'lock' so the buttons are not going to change anything unless pressed in a certain method i.e. if locked a 5sec holdown or something similar.

    Perry Sliver Class Day Sailor

    Have a look at the Raymarine A67 display. It does chart, depth etc all in 1 very easy to use screen about 7" square. Touch screen so no buttons (apart from on/off). It can accept NMEA data so you can put wind instrument feeds to the screen and set up a page on the screen for when your sailing i.e. boat speed, wind speed, depth & wind direction. Have charts etc when / if you want them. You could even put engine data, tank levels etc onto it if you really wanted to go whole hog. A very nice bit of kit, not too expensive and small enough that you'd hardly notice it if you did not want to. You could maybe get away with an internal transducer, thus removing the need for a thru hull connection too. Your boat is so simple I see a single screen as in keeping with the concept.
  10. WOPALX

    Restoration Ron Holland IOR racer Flirt of Paget (2)

    Wow you must be proud
  11. WOPALX

    Restoration Ron Holland IOR racer Flirt of Paget (2)

    Looking forward to more pics of this awsome resoration!