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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.
    • B.J. Porter

      Moderation Team Change   06/16/2017

      After fifteen years of volunteer moderation at SA, I will no longer be part of the moderation team. The decision to step aside is mine, and has been some time in the works but we did not wish to announce it in advance for a number of reasons. It's been fun, but I need my time back for other purposes now. The Underdawg admin account will not be monitored until further notice, as I will be relinquishing control of it along with my administrative privileges. Zapata will continue on as a moderator, and any concerns or issues can be directed to that account or to the Editor until further notice. Anyone interested in helping moderate the forums should reach out to Scot by sending a PM to the Editor account. Please note that I am not leaving the community, I am merely stepping aside from Admin responsibilities and privileges on the site.


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About david.r.carey

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  1. Regenerating propulsion motor.
  2. Wing sail hinge component.
  3. Either the much-requested (but heretofore never seen) CAD drawings for a Brent Swain chain windlass, OR a canting foil bearing.
  4. That's what I originally thought, but it couldn't be. Those boats can supposedly pound on a reef for years with no damage. It would take a small tactical nuke to make that divot. From this thread: http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/stability/swain-bs_36-stability-curve-37070-31.html
  5. I miss some things about my flattop Cal 28; it was fun to sail, I LIKED the view across the empty deck, and it was absolutely cavernous inside for a 28' boat. I ran an 8HP carbureted Mercury outboard mounted in the well for a couple of years while sailing in/around the area between Seattle and the SJ's, and it was adequate 90% of the time. I could make 5.5kts at 3/4 throttle in flat water. The large spade rudder directly behind the prop made it easy to maneuver and I could back that boat into places I cannot with my Cal 29. I did not have remote controls, but the Mercury did have an integrated shift/throttle twist control which helped to an extent for maneuvering. Sometimes that was enough and sometimes it got sketchy while manuevering the Chittenden locks solo. The lid to the motor compartment had enough mass to keep the motor quiet-ish, although it wouldn't be hard to add more acoustic insulation and avoid the auditory fatigue that comes with running an outboard all day. The engine compartment on the Cal 28 is generous which made it easy to run dual outboard tanks, allowing fast switchovers and very long day-runs before refueling. The outboard well itself is large enough for the lower unit of most 8/9/15HP motors, but just barely. There is not enough room to steer the motor with its tiller handle once in the well, so there's no 'thrust vectoring' advantage as you might get from an outboard hanging off the transom. Mounting/removing the motor from the compartment required some simultaneous twisting and tilting of the 80lb+ long-shaft motor to get the prop blades to clear the sides of the well on the way in/out. There really wan't a lot of room for a second set of hands, so bonus points if you're strong AND dexterous. I didn't like leaving the motor in place (corrosion/growth 24/7) but I sure didn't look forward to having to pull it when I was going to let it sit for a few weeks either. If I were to do it again, I'd pony up some extra $$$ for remote throttle/shifting and a modern fuel-injected 9.9HP. That said, I really love my Cal 2-29's 33HP Sole' diesel, so I probably won't do it again...
  6. If the Javascript console* it to be believed, the R2AK2016 communications team might do well to to set up a billing agreement with Google to use its Maps API beyond the complimentary 25,000 page loads in any 24 hour period. * "js?sensor=false:32 This site has exceeded its daily quota for maps. If you are the creator of this site, please visit the <a href="https://developers.google.com/maps/faq#usagelimits?utm_referrer=v3"target="_blank">documentation</a> to learn more."
  7. To follow up: The hole saw blade was retrieved with a strong-ass magnet at the end of some solid copper wire, eventually requiring some help from a pair of long-nosed pliers to turn the shank into the correct alignment to exit the hole. No corrosion evident after three weeks.
  8. Thanks all for the ideas/concerns. The consensus seems to be that the hole saw is not entirely benign and needs to be extracted, and as some have pointed out it will need to come out as it came in : along the drill axis. Plan A: borrowed video borescope for aiming + semi-rigid armature (Romex 10/3?) for getting to the target + rare-earth magnet for adhesion. I'll report back when I've had a chance to execute. WRT the plastic 'dust', I did pause periodically during the drilling process to vacuum, so contamination from PE falling into the tank was minimal. Probably the one part that I got right on this installation.
  9. In preparation for autumn cruisng, I recently bought a Wallas cooktop/heater to install into my venerable Cal 29 Salish Sound cruiser. The attraction was reducing the footprint and number of heating appliances onboard while simultaneously reducing the fuels carried down to one non-volatile, easily-obtained substance: the diesel in my fuel tank. Importantly, my wife gave her enthusiastic support to this purchase, mostly based on the stylish looks but also for the safety factor and high heat output relative to the size of our cabin. Forgoing a day tank, I opted to supply the stove from the fuel in my main tank, so yesterday, I started to install the fuel pickup tube into the top of my 8 gallon rectangular polyethylene diesel tank which sits in the aft end of the engine compartment, under the cockpit. The space between the top surface of the tank and the cockpit floor above it is approximately 6 inches. The Wallas pickup tube is a well-built little affair that requires a 1 inch diameter hole in the top surface of the tank, through which the rigid stainless steel tube is inserted into the tank and then the whole affair is securely clamped down and sealed, resulting in a leak free second fuel outlet. My first challenge however, was how to get a drill-mounted hole saw onto the top of the tank (normal to said surface) to make the cut. Using my Google-fu and Amazon, I obtained the Dewalt low-profile 90 degree adapter unit, the small size of which combined with the height of the hole saw, would allow me to drill straight down into the top of the tank within the 6 inch space. Great item, well-made and the right tool for this job I thought. It also uses the quick-change hex drive drill/driver bits that are becoming the norm these days, securing said bits into the socket with some sort of magnetic retention system. After all this research and preparation, actually making the cut into the tank was quick and went off without a hitch... right up until the point where the last bit of plastic was cut away and as the drill spun down the hole saw bit continued on, dropping into the tank with a 'kerplunk'. While the magnetic retention system in the 90 degree adapter is more than adequate to keep an individual drill/driver bit in place, it was no match for the 2+ ounce hole saw and momentum simply took over. Afterwards I was angry at myself for not having seen this coming, but more concerned with whether having a chunk of steel resident in my diesel tank was something I could live with, and without consequence. Clearly I had F-ed up, but even now, am still not sure how badly. My primary concern is that this (non-stainless) steel object is going to become my own personal built-in rust factory as it rolls around the floor of the tank interacting with whatever water lives down there. I also imagined that the bit may act to stir up the interface between the diesel=>water/sludge layer while in motion and mix more of the undesirable stuff into my fuel pickup than would be there normally. That said, I believe that the existing filters will keep rust particles away from the sensitive bits of the engine, but don't want to be overwhelming the filtration if I can help it. Particulars: The engine is a marinized 33hp Mitsubishi (Sole) with less than 250 hours on it and represents the majority of the value of the vessel, so I really want to preserve it in every way. The fuel system is well-equipped with primary and secondary filters. The tank is relatively small, so even if mostly empty, there is not much free air from which water can condense. The hole saw was being used for the first time, so arrived in the tank rust/dirt-free. So... am I being overly concerned about the long-term effects on my engine from this foreign object in the fuel tank and should leave it where it is? Or do I need to take action and cut another (slightly larger) access port into the top of the tank, through which I can retrieve the hole saw bit with a strong magnet? Is there a middle way?
  10. Not sure how yours is wired, but the 'fuel kill' solenoid on my SoleMistubishi diesel is energized by the ignition circuit; the solenoid cannot activate if the ignition circuit is 'off'.