monsters inc

Silver kat single handed. Appears to be built in Italy

Tidal flats, Comox, Courtenay. Bring Lucky Beer.

When worried about steep hills, with a loaded truck, just leave the shifter in 2nd gear. The engine will absorb the heat normally loaded into your brakes, and unload it through the radiator. Speed is the enemy of vehicles loaded well into the designed capacity. Otherwise a modern pickup should pull the boat with no worries...

I haven't sailed on a VX one , but have spent all day hanging over the lifelines of a M24 more than I liked. The M24 only needs crew to hoist and douse the spin, and provide ballast. A skipper and a fat man would be competitive under 8 knots. Your experience may be somewhat different lol!

" Furl me up and smoke me when I die" .

Talk to Westwind Hardwoods in Sidney BC. Great people, service , and they may have a good substitute for teak. I used Douglas fir base boards from Home Depot to scarf gunwales for my project. They were clear straight grain, kiln dried, and machine sanded. As long as any fasteners are bedded with an epoxy plug, I don't think rot will be an issue.

What happens when the foredeck builds his own boat? Is there any protocol with dealing with the old after guard.... Asking for a friend....

I am pretty sure the splice was long enough, spliced and tapered as described on the videos, fid instructions, etc.the whipping was to be as insurance . Will report back after gale like conditions. Thanks about the floor!

This is what I am trying to build. Without a backstay, and with a gnav. It was lifted from the viper640 class rules. The adjustable legs allow some latitude for wind strength, however , I haven't put in the boat yet. What type of cleats ? Cam cleat is only rated to 300 lbs., any suggestions?

Plenty of wind here, dig out carbon offset and take her for a rip, eh!

I dove into the project a few nights ago. I wanted 48" legs on the bridal, so made an 96" around ,eye. Followed the YouTube videos on eye splicing measured , marked, tapered etc. It all went pretty easily , until I was bringing the core back into the cover at the point where it meets itself inside the cover . At that point , the fid got stuck. 2 lessons came out of that. Use as small a fid as possible and the fid had a hook on the end to hold the core. The hook came through the tape that I eased to smooth out the bottom of the fid/core and then snagged the outer braid.managed to crochet the outer braid out of the way, but it was time consuming. In the end the rest of the splice was okay after getting the ends adjusted and bring the cover down over them . I sewed and whipped the fork, and up the splice where the cover was buried, for insurance. Thanks for all the info. I will be leaving the legs adjustable as noted in several comments above. Cheers

Thanks, I will try that !

I would be interested in splicing a split mainsheet , but have not had much luck finding information on how to make the splice. There is one YouTube video,( from Rooster Sailing ) that talks about a twin core rope to accomplish the two tails. Anyone tried this before with a single core? The splice with the double core gets tapered to run through the last block on the boom. Not sure how common the dual core line is , but suspect it is harder to find than regular single cored double braid. I may end up trying a spliced eye and two shackles for simplicity. The boat is an 18 foot sport boat , so loads on the sheet won't be anywhere near breaking strength . Any advice is appreciated, cheers.

I suspect you have never tried the tape trick. Your knee jerk reply gives me 2/ 10 on the give a shit factor . Acetone? bye bye paint. On the other hand, it may help with the old paint removal, which probably will need doing soon anyhow. Good luck pjmsj21

Warm up the goo. Tear off a fresh piece of duct tape. Dab at the goo with the duct tape. Goo sticks to the tape. Not your cabin top. No chemicals needed.