monsters inc

We were racing in plumper sound race week one year , and one of the team was not available for the first couple of days. We picked up a local dude from the marina at port browning to fill the spot. He was living on his cal 20, although I don't think it left the dock much. He wasn't a lot of help on the Moore 24, however he was great at finding parties on Pender Island! So it can be done, but I would want shoreside showers and laundry. Cheers!

i have a j24 rudder you can convert to a centreboard. I think it weighs nearly 90 lbs!

I am lucky enough to sail on a Peterson 35. It still is a fun boat to drive, and I don't mind the interior comforts. I have also raced Moore 24's. Not so comfortable below but more fun to drive. Both have merits. Pick any boat you want, really!

Will it plane ? Can the main be reefed for stronger conditions?

Silver kat single handed. Appears to be built in Italy

Tidal flats, Comox, Courtenay. Bring Lucky Beer.

When worried about steep hills, with a loaded truck, just leave the shifter in 2nd gear. The engine will absorb the heat normally loaded into your brakes, and unload it through the radiator. Speed is the enemy of vehicles loaded well into the designed capacity. Otherwise a modern pickup should pull the boat with no worries...

I haven't sailed on a VX one , but have spent all day hanging over the lifelines of a M24 more than I liked. The M24 only needs crew to hoist and douse the spin, and provide ballast. A skipper and a fat man would be competitive under 8 knots. Your experience may be somewhat different lol!

" Furl me up and smoke me when I die" .

I would be interested in splicing a split mainsheet , but have not had much luck finding information on how to make the splice. There is one YouTube video,( from Rooster Sailing ) that talks about a twin core rope to accomplish the two tails. Anyone tried this before with a single core? The splice with the double core gets tapered to run through the last block on the boom. Not sure how common the dual core line is , but suspect it is harder to find than regular single cored double braid. I may end up trying a spliced eye and two shackles for simplicity. The boat is an 18 foot sport boat , so loads on the sheet won't be anywhere near breaking strength . Any advice is appreciated, cheers.

Talk to Westwind Hardwoods in Sidney BC. Great people, service , and they may have a good substitute for teak. I used Douglas fir base boards from Home Depot to scarf gunwales for my project. They were clear straight grain, kiln dried, and machine sanded. As long as any fasteners are bedded with an epoxy plug, I don't think rot will be an issue.

I am about to paint my I550 bottom with Interprotect 2000e. The boat is on stands with the bottom facing up, so the surface is relatively level and flat. The bottom has about 5 coats of west system with barrier additive 422 in the last four coats. I plan on rolling and tipping the Ip2k. What roller works well with this product? I have been using the disposable foam trim rollers for west epoxy with good results. I dropped my allowance on Purdy brushes this week for the tipping out. Just wondering what length nap to use with the ip2k. Any thoughts? Thanks

What happens when the foredeck builds his own boat? Is there any protocol with dealing with the old after guard.... Asking for a friend....

I am pretty sure the splice was long enough, spliced and tapered as described on the videos, fid instructions, etc.the whipping was to be as insurance . Will report back after gale like conditions. Thanks about the floor!

This is what I am trying to build. Without a backstay, and with a gnav. It was lifted from the viper640 class rules. The adjustable legs allow some latitude for wind strength, however , I haven't put in the boat yet. What type of cleats ? Cam cleat is only rated to 300 lbs., any suggestions?

Plenty of wind here, dig out carbon offset and take her for a rip, eh!

I dove into the project a few nights ago. I wanted 48" legs on the bridal, so made an 96" around ,eye. Followed the YouTube videos on eye splicing measured , marked, tapered etc. It all went pretty easily , until I was bringing the core back into the cover at the point where it meets itself inside the cover . At that point , the fid got stuck. 2 lessons came out of that. Use as small a fid as possible and the fid had a hook on the end to hold the core. The hook came through the tape that I eased to smooth out the bottom of the fid/core and then snagged the outer braid.managed to crochet the outer braid out of the way, but it was time consuming. In the end the rest of the splice was okay after getting the ends adjusted and bring the cover down over them . I sewed and whipped the fork, and up the splice where the cover was buried, for insurance. Thanks for all the info. I will be leaving the legs adjustable as noted in several comments above. Cheers

Thanks, I will try that !

I suspect you have never tried the tape trick. Your knee jerk reply gives me 2/ 10 on the give a shit factor . Acetone? bye bye paint. On the other hand, it may help with the old paint removal, which probably will need doing soon anyhow. Good luck pjmsj21

Warm up the goo. Tear off a fresh piece of duct tape. Dab at the goo with the duct tape. Goo sticks to the tape. Not your cabin top. No chemicals needed.

It's actually a couple million years old. I would use it up without worrying if it was sealed in the container.

Is Fiasco leaving? I hope the new owners take care of it... Fun boat to race against... Cheers

the 550 thread has been quiet for a while. Here is a shot of mine, out for a wash and to check the fit on the trailer bunks.

Can you just remove the corrosion, and fair down the foil in a smooth taper to the bulb? There may be no need to weld it if enough material is left. Only certain aluminum alloys are weldable, so that may not be an option depending on the alloy. E.G the 70xx series have zinc in them, high strength when cast and machined, poor corrosion resistance, non weldable.

So is Snaggletooth going to chime in on what to use?