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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

j24j

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About j24j

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  1. Thank you everyone for chiming in. I called West System technical support to get their opinion. They've always been very helpful and today was no exception. He thought Parker used Bondo, as it shrinks slightly over time and would allow material to lift completely out of those tiny phillips head screw slots. He said the trick to using epoxy is to use a heat gun to 130F and then it would be as easily removed. We discussed the merit of 407 or 410, and he said 407 would be more durable, 410 easily sanded by hand. The last tip was to put a final coat of epoxy with no fillers over either material to seal it from water intrusion.
  2. Thanks all, I'm going to do a small test batch of Bondo, only because it's polystyrene and the physical properties of whatever the stuff is seems to make this plausible.
  3. I pulled the centerboard gaskets from my 1991 Parker 470 this weekend as they originals were long in the tooth. The gasket holder is a 1.5m long, maybe 10mm wide strip of stainless, with about 8 screws countersunk and faired over with some unknown compound. It is a hard compound - a putty knife and a small pick cleaned things out pretty easily. I removed both bailers and the gasket holders in less than 30 minutes. The Phillips head screws are tiny – maybe a size 2 or 1(?), but every screw came out as easy as pie. Did a shaft of light came from the heavens burst through to fill the room with the aura of magic? Almost. Whoever did this at Parker was a genius as far as I'm concerned; they actually cared to make future maintenance easy. So, I want to use the exact same compound when I re-install the gaskets. It was definitely not 3M 4200/5200, nor was it West epoxy with 407. My buddy who was with me at the time thought it was Bondo, which I see as a possibility. It is a hard compound - a putty knife and a small pick cleaned things out
  4. Not sure if you've already started repairs, but I'm finishing up repairing a 470 that had some similar issues. The advice of roughing, then thickened epoxy with cabosil (aka Colloidal Silica, 1/32 milled fiber) and pressure is spot on. While others may like 5200, this epoxy recipe is ridiculously strong. One other thing to consider this time of year is warm up the epoxy to a room temperature or a bit higher. Bubbles created by stirring the hardener/resin together dissipate very quickly when the material is warm. If the material is 50 degrees you will see a lot more air bubbles in the final product, which compromises strength.
  5. I just finished the repair and followed these steps, so thank you very much again. Looking at the design plans on the 470 website, I discovered that Parker didn't include the bulkhead at 600 mm from the stern, which explains perfectly why this damage occurred. My guess is that at the time the boat was built, the class plans didn't call the need for a bulkhead at that point, but experience proved otherwise. The 470 is an incredibly lightweight boat for its size, in my opinion anyway. Putting an ordinary flashlight beam on the hull I could see through both the hull and flotation tank, to show precisely what's going on internally, and the bulkhead was clearly MIA. I built that bulkhead, which was a ridiculously simple process once found a youtube video on how to make a missing bulkhead without a plan. While the Parker boat missed that bulkhead, it does not have wood in its keelson at the mast step. So, this boat will be stiff when she hits the water in the Spring. Can't wait and I'd do it again.
  6. WD40? Um.... No. Plastic to plastic binding? Clean it all up and use some PTFE dry lubricant instead. And quickly! WD40 is horrible stuff in general, and could ruin the watch. Ask us first, eventually you'll get the golden answer through some chaff.
  7. I've wondered about the amount of overlap that is necessary for the backing piece - thank you. I'm just about to this phase right now.
  8. Thanks Bruno. Completely agree - I really would like a new MacKay, which is now $21K in NZ, probably $3K to ship over. This is the equivalent of a dent in the quarter panel, not ready to throw it away over that. I don't know what year the bulkhead at the back of the centerboard became legal, but this boat has it. I have been considering stiffeners/stringers under the tanks while I have it opened up and am going to figure out a good way to incorporate them. They are a fun boat, and I want my friends/family to enjoy sailing it and not feel like they are on egg shells. Thanks for your advice.
  9. +1 Kiwigrip. Looks and functions as good this year as it did last year.
  10. This is a repair technique strategy question. The only thing I've done is to prepare the boat for repair. So, the world is full of possibilities. This is a cut twice, measure once discussion - ha. I have a 1991 Parker 470 which is in great condition except two points of impact damage to both tanks near the stern. Something sharp and heavy dropped on them. I want this repair to be very strong and as invisible as possible when I'm done. The final step will be to paint the boat with Interlux Perfection. Right now my plan is to make a backing support piece larger than the red line, then cut the tank open to install it. I'll give 3" of margin - i.e., the hole will be 3" smaller than the support. Then I'll laminate the backing support - like the West System Fiberglass Boat Repair manual describes. This picture shows the worst damage, and the glass is completely compromised. After the backing plate is in, I'll grind out the damaged area and laminate in new glass. At the same time, I also want to keep the repair class legal and as reasonably light as I can while still being very strong. Anyone done this? Any other approaches I should consider?