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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About j24j

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  1. Thank you everyone for chiming in. I called West System technical support to get their opinion. They've always been very helpful and today was no exception. He thought Parker used Bondo, as it shrinks slightly over time and would allow material to lift completely out of those tiny phillips head screw slots. He said the trick to using epoxy is to use a heat gun to 130F and then it would be as easily removed. We discussed the merit of 407 or 410, and he said 407 would be more durable, 410 easily sanded by hand. The last tip was to put a final coat of epoxy with no fillers over either material to seal it from water intrusion.
  2. Thanks all, I'm going to do a small test batch of Bondo, only because it's polystyrene and the physical properties of whatever the stuff is seems to make this plausible.
  3. I pulled the centerboard gaskets from my 1991 Parker 470 this weekend as they originals were long in the tooth. The gasket holder is a 1.5m long, maybe 10mm wide strip of stainless, with about 8 screws countersunk and faired over with some unknown compound. It is a hard compound - a putty knife and a small pick cleaned things out pretty easily. I removed both bailers and the gasket holders in less than 30 minutes. The Phillips head screws are tiny – maybe a size 2 or 1(?), but every screw came out as easy as pie. Did a shaft of light came from the heavens burst through to fill the room with the aura of magic? Almost. Whoever did this at Parker was a genius as far as I'm concerned; they actually cared to make future maintenance easy. So, I want to use the exact same compound when I re-install the gaskets. It was definitely not 3M 4200/5200, nor was it West epoxy with 407. My buddy who was with me at the time thought it was Bondo, which I see as a possibility. It is a hard compound - a putty knife and a small pick cleaned things out
  4. Repairing a 420

    Not sure if you've already started repairs, but I'm finishing up repairing a 470 that had some similar issues. The advice of roughing, then thickened epoxy with cabosil (aka Colloidal Silica, 1/32 milled fiber) and pressure is spot on. While others may like 5200, this epoxy recipe is ridiculously strong. One other thing to consider this time of year is warm up the epoxy to a room temperature or a bit higher. Bubbles created by stirring the hardener/resin together dissipate very quickly when the material is warm. If the material is 50 degrees you will see a lot more air bubbles in the final product, which compromises strength.
  5. Repairing a 470 flotation tank

    I just finished the repair and followed these steps, so thank you very much again. Looking at the design plans on the 470 website, I discovered that Parker didn't include the bulkhead at 600 mm from the stern, which explains perfectly why this damage occurred. My guess is that at the time the boat was built, the class plans didn't call the need for a bulkhead at that point, but experience proved otherwise. The 470 is an incredibly lightweight boat for its size, in my opinion anyway. Putting an ordinary flashlight beam on the hull I could see through both the hull and flotation tank, to show precisely what's going on internally, and the bulkhead was clearly MIA. I built that bulkhead, which was a ridiculously simple process once found a youtube video on how to make a missing bulkhead without a plan. While the Parker boat missed that bulkhead, it does not have wood in its keelson at the mast step. So, this boat will be stiff when she hits the water in the Spring. Can't wait and I'd do it again.
  6. Ronstan Clear Start Watch

    WD40? Um.... No. Plastic to plastic binding? Clean it all up and use some PTFE dry lubricant instead. And quickly! WD40 is horrible stuff in general, and could ruin the watch. Ask us first, eventually you'll get the golden answer through some chaff.
  7. Repairing a 470 flotation tank

    I've wondered about the amount of overlap that is necessary for the backing piece - thank you. I'm just about to this phase right now.
  8. Repairing a 470 flotation tank

    Thanks Bruno. Completely agree - I really would like a new MacKay, which is now $21K in NZ, probably $3K to ship over. This is the equivalent of a dent in the quarter panel, not ready to throw it away over that. I don't know what year the bulkhead at the back of the centerboard became legal, but this boat has it. I have been considering stiffeners/stringers under the tanks while I have it opened up and am going to figure out a good way to incorporate them. They are a fun boat, and I want my friends/family to enjoy sailing it and not feel like they are on egg shells. Thanks for your advice.
  9. J22 Nonskid Paint?

    +1 Kiwigrip. Looks and functions as good this year as it did last year.
  10. This is a repair technique strategy question. The only thing I've done is to prepare the boat for repair. So, the world is full of possibilities. This is a cut twice, measure once discussion - ha. I have a 1991 Parker 470 which is in great condition except two points of impact damage to both tanks near the stern. Something sharp and heavy dropped on them. I want this repair to be very strong and as invisible as possible when I'm done. The final step will be to paint the boat with Interlux Perfection. Right now my plan is to make a backing support piece larger than the red line, then cut the tank open to install it. I'll give 3" of margin - i.e., the hole will be 3" smaller than the support. Then I'll laminate the backing support - like the West System Fiberglass Boat Repair manual describes. This picture shows the worst damage, and the glass is completely compromised. After the backing plate is in, I'll grind out the damaged area and laminate in new glass. At the same time, I also want to keep the repair class legal and as reasonably light as I can while still being very strong. Anyone done this? Any other approaches I should consider?