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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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About Tomfl

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    Inner Solar System
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    photography and skin/SCUBA diving

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  1. Maybe a little old school but I look at the first America's Cup and wonder why the original format was changed. Yea, I know about the Deed of Gift. But still the first race was around the Isle of Wright and I would bet a nickle that the schooner America did not get to England on a container ship. So before I choose a boat type I will say the venue should be similar to sailing around the Isle of Wright, not in some flat water location. And the boats should have to get to the race location on their own, not being shipped there. Just these two requirements would radically change the design of competing boats. I am a big fan of boats like Bank Populaire/Spindrift. Not only are they very fast; they are fast under lots of conditions. Not saying the boat has to be a 100+foot tri, just that it has to be capable of doing what sailboats have been doing for most of history. Sailing in the open ocean in a wide range of conditions means the boat has to be seaworthy; and what ever one thinks about the boats in the most recent AC they were not seaworthy. A seaworthy boat would also mean the crew would have to be real sailors. I note that Spindrift did have a bike like thing. I have no problem with things like that as long as they are able to stand up to the ravages of the open ocean. Also have no problem with things like a wing mast; again as long as it can deal with the open ocean. The thing is soft sails have a huge advantage in being able to be reefed if the wind gets above 30, 40, 50 knots while a wing mast not so much. Bottom line is I understand these are race boats; but I would rather seem more attention paid to being boats and less to being race.
  2. The Splash is a POS. It has real issues with over heating and unless you upgrade it by placing copper foil to isolate the GPS receiver it has trouble keeping on course and stable hovering which is needed for photography. Something like a HexH20, or QuadH2O is a much better choice since it has metal cooling fins around each ECS/engine and is large enough and well designed enough that the GPS receiver is isolated by design. I have both the Splash and the two H20 models. H2O is in the process of using the dji internals in a waterproof frame with folding props but that is not out yet. None of these options really has enough flight time (less than 20 minutes if that in stiff wind) to come close to providing enough raw footage. The larger much more expensive platforms may go for 40-60 minutes with a good pilot but even that is not really close to how long a race lasts. Not trying to rain on anyone's parade but while I really enjoy flying all my platforms I am also a realist about what they can do and as was posted earlier it is quite common for folks to fly their new toy only once before it winds up in the water. Even if it is waterproof there is no assurance you will be able to recover it. With a 20 minute flight time you probably will use 5 minutes to get it up in the air and to a place where it is able to capture images, 10 minutes to actually capture images, and 5 minutes to get safely back on the boat. And that last 5 minutes you may feel pressure because if you make a mistake the battery will run down and it will crash into the water. I have been flying RC platforms for well over 20 years and seen remarkable improvements but they still are no where close to where lots of folks think they are.
  3. While a platform that meets the requirements in your post does exist it will be both expensive and require some level of skill to fly it. It will be what I term a military grade platform and will most likely cost somewhere in the low six figures, but that will/should include a basic course in how to fly it. You (the pilot) will most likely have to travel to the builder to get the training. This class of platform is in use monitoring wildlife in harsh climates (like the Antartic) and normally launched from moving ships/boats. There are also some platforms used by law enforcement with even better capabilities and higher prices. As an aside a lot of the sailing action vids you see posted are made by someone not on the boat, often in a chase boat that makes launch and landing easier.
  4. Just my two cents but you guys may want to think about things from a different perspective. I am no racer, just some guy with a Seawind 1000 who spends time in BKH and once in a while drives, or more realistically takes the bus, to Key West. Why do I take the bus instead of driving? Parking is a pain in the buttissmo if you can find a space and feed the meter. Prices are absurd and often the folks you are paying act like you are bothering them. Not to mention the snowbirds who act like everyone is bothering them. I first went to the Keys in 1954 when my Dad moved to Miami. In the 1967 he moved to Marathon and I remember my folks having me drive my little sister to Key West to see the dentist because even back then they hated driving there. While I have no doubt it is possible to have fun partying in Key West it is not as easy as it use to be. Part of the problem is that while getting a boat to the start line in the Key West race does cost big bucks so does everything else in Key West. In fact racing does not add as much to the local economy as a lot of other stuff; not to mention racing may hinder the ability of some business in Key West to make money. These funny sailboats take up dock space and the race course is off limits to the locals who may want to fish, dive, or bother normal folks by speeding around on jet skis. Between 2000 and 2010 the Monroe County dropped by over 6,000 peeps, around -8.2%. While there has been something of a rebound the estimated 2015 population (census data) has not reached the 2000 level. Monroe County has the highest percent of folks on welfare of any county in Florida. On the other hand there are also a lot of extremely rich folks in Monroe County with some of the most expensive houses I have ever seen. I love the Keys. The sailing is great and in season it has some of the best weather I have ever seen. But I know lots of folks who bring their boats down for the season and avoid going ashore when events like boat races are happening. Bottom line is I could not think of a worse place to hold a race; well maybe I could if I tried. The locals don't like the extra traffic from outsiders and the snowbirds don't either. A bigger city like Miami, Tampa, or maybe a place like Clearwater with a 72 foot bridge height and easy access to the Gulf would be a better choice IMHO.
  5. I have a Seawind 1000 with one meter sugar scoops added by a previous owner. A lot of folks think the Seawinds with long sugar scoops are one of the boats that the designers got right. I really like the open design with no bulkhead between the cockpit and salon; gives a lot of room. There are a few other cats with this design like a MainCat (sp) and some others; but I an not sure how well it would work in colder climates. There are big cost advantages to using two outboards in wells to power the boat, but the boat does not motor all that well against the wind and/or tide. But I often use less than a gallon a month when cruising by staying anchored till the wind is blowing in the right direction. Probably not a good idea to use this setup if you plan to motor across the doldrums. But for day sailing in the Florida Keys, Bahamas, and Greater and Lesser Antillies it works for me. Realistically that is the limit of where I will be sailing; really day sailing from one anchorage to the next. In the trades I have no problem making 10 knots, and as a rule the longest leg of any route in the Bahamas is around 80-90 miles; easily doable in day light. These are just two examples of getting a boat designed for the purpose you intend to use it for. I looked at the usual suspects already mentioned in addition to boats like a PDQ. Seawinds seemed like the best compromise of room, comfort (especially in a seaway), and performance; at the price point I was willing to pay. Just a personal observation about performance. My boat came with a big square top. It quickly became obvious that this sail was a pain in the buttissmooooo to raise; and even more obvious it added probably a couple of knots or more and also had the advantage of acting as the first reef when it opened up in a gust. I started sailing my Dad's boats in the late 1950s and it was a real learning experience adjusting the traveler to get the most out of the square top; and a little shocking how much more important it was to get the traveler right as opposed to the trim on the main sheet. The only time I had second thoughts about a different boat was when I visited on an F-39 in the harbor. I am a big F-boat fan and had experience on several Corsairs and loved the way the sailed; even if they are simply too small to realistically cruise on. The F-39 had plenty of room. It also sailed like a dream. The owner claimed and I believed it would sail at a sustained 22 knots under the right conditions. The thing was the owner said it would take a crew of four to do it safely. While sailing fast is fun you want to make sure it is safe as well. Remember the whole idea is suppose to be having fun. Part of that is being comfortable but maybe a bigger part is being safe as well.
  6. Folks have bought a catamaran to live on and sail across oceans for less than half a mill. And other folks have spent much more. How much you need to spend depends on your life style. My personal rant is always the same, the biggest mistake most folks make is buying a boat for what they think they will do with a boat, not what they wind up doing with the boat. I have an older Seawind 1000XL that costs way less than $US500,000 which I live on sailing in the Florida Keys, Bahamas, and some of the Greater Antillies; at least during the season. In hurricane season I often haul it out or wet store it. At the time I bought it I considered going South, through the Panama Canal, and across the Pacific. The thing is it was just so easy to stay in the Keys and Bahamas with a few trips South. My boat has good solar that runs a Frigaboat in the galley and an Engel in the cockpit, all the nav stuff, electric windlass, and lights. Also has a composting head and is powered by two Yahama 9.9 outboards. All this means no thru hull fittings and switching outboards is a lot cheaper than inboards. All in all a very economical boat to cruise on. I stock the boat with 10 pound bags of rice and 2 pound bags of dried beans. Get cases of caned goods at Walmart or Aldi. Also catch a lot of fish, lobsters, crabs. I don't smoke or drink alcohol. But I know folks who eat out every night, have a weekly bar bill bigger than what I spend in a month, and spend even more on cigarettes. They stay at the dock connected to shore power to run the AC or spend more on fuel for their generator than I spend running my outboards. When they do cruise they often motor, and motor at top speed to meet their schedule; while I tend to pick the best weather window to sail and may stay at anchor for weeks if I like the place. My take is there is nothing wrong with either cruising style. The idea is you are suppose to be having fun. My boat is set up for how I have fun. You need to be realistic about what you will be doing with your boat, not what you think you will be doing. But for a lot of folks would think $US500,000 would be plenty to get a nice boat and sail off into the sunset.
  7. Any pix of what is inside the hulls. Also wonder about trailer and how street legal it is, specifically are permits needed for a wide load or can it be towed without a permit. I would need to get the boat to Florida and have trucking experience.
  8. That is where I got the manual after my first google search. I am sure I can have the motor rebuild here in Florida cheaper and quicker than ordering one from the UK. But my question is more along the lines of should I fix the SL on my boat or buy a new windlass; and if I buy a new windlass which one best fits my needs. There seems to be one school of thought that older windlasses are more durable while newer ones will fail more often. Another school of thought is things like design and metals probably have improved over the last 20 years. I am not sure which school is right. I don't mind buying a new windlass or fixing the one I have. I am just not sure which solution is best.
  9. About five years ago I bought the first boat (a Seawind 1000XL) I owned that had a windlass; a Simpson Lawrence Horizon Express. A couple of days ago it quit working. From what I can tell the motor is frozen. There seems to be a lot of corrosion with a coating of fine dust on the motor cover and on the bottom of the side plate. A google search's first result brings up a link saying my windlass is obsolete. Lots of googling has produced inconclusive data about which new windlass is the best choice. Several well known brands seem to have plastic parts in the gear train that are prone to fail. Instead of installing a new windlass I also have the option of getting the electric motor rebuilt which is not only cheaper (if my time to remove and replace it is ignored). In any case there are also lots of posts on the internet about how it is important to maintain a windlass; most commonly by cleaning and lubing the gear train. Some posts say a Maxwell HRC-8 Horizontal windlass has the closest footprint to the SL now on my boat and is similar in power. The price seemed lower than I expected compared to several other choices, but there were more recommendations for the Maxwell than anything else. If I do switch out the SL I would like to add the option of manual operation; at least I think that is a good idea but I am not sure. So anyone want to offer advice on what I should do to get a reliable windlass for cruising in the Florida Keys and Bahamas anchoring in mostly shallow water, sand bottom mostly, with 175 feet of chain and a 200 foot nylon at the end which I almost never use. So far I am leaning to simply fixing the electric motor and cleaning the gear train; but could easily change my mind.
  10. Some folks have posted it may be a busy time for the yard. Others posted good communication between you and the yard is important. Seems clear to me there has been a break down in communication. A couple of time I have asked yards for estimates and got run arounds which caused me to look for a new yard. One yard I called asked for my credit card number before they would even offer an estimate of when they could haul and never would even give a rough guess for haul, pressure wash, sand and bottom paint on a Seawind catamarand with no through hulls, zinks, and outboards in wells that lift out of the water. I am in Florida and there are lots of choices. It was easy to find a place that was very up front about everything. It was not a "boat yard" but a "ship yard" that did not blink about my 19'5" beam or room to store it. They seemed to be use to commercial work where prices were set before hand. They also understood that things can go South and the cost would increase but realized a realistic estimate was the first step in the process. My advice is to look elsewhere and if you can find a "ship yard" not a "boat yard". One other consideration is that often a ship yard will suggest outside contractors to do what I will call complex work they do not feel comfortable with; or even let you find them on your own. Several options for contractors will often lower the price.
  11. Try reading before you post. It's not a 49' foot boat. It's a 49-year-old Santana 27. To the OP- have the boat dived now. It's been much too long already. And find a real hull cleaner, not the genius above. I spent a few years in BKH and had my hulls cleaned by divers there; about $US2 a foot. Moved the boat to Ft. Myers on the river maybe 20 miles inland and had the bottom cleaned there. My knot meter never worked; but I had GPS speed on the chart plotter so it was not all that important. When the Ft. Myers diver finished he mentioned the paddle wheel for the knot meter was frozen by growth and he freed it; but suggested I have it checked out when the boat was hauled. While he is not always PC fastbottoms is right about looking for a real bottom cleaner. I dive my boat on a regular basis and thought I knew what I was doing, and was always careful about cleaning around the depth gauge protrusion. But I never remember seeing the paddle wheel for the knot meter. Thing was it was actually cheaper to have my hull cleaned in Ft. Myers than BKH; probably because of more competition. Ask around if you are not sure about a good diver.
  12. I will be heading to BKH in a couple of weeks, do you know how long it will be there.
  13. I asked a similar question in the thread about questions to ask ALC. I saw one vid where ALC was flying what looked like a screecher and working jib with at least one reef in the main. I tend to fly a full main and working jib and take the screecher down; but what do I know. When Donna and Yann bought the older BP they shortened the mast, which I guess means the reefs mean even less sail area than with a taller mast. So in addition to the questions in the quote above I would be interested in knowing how sail selection is related to putting reef in the main.
  14. Maybe more of a general design question. When Donna and Yann got the old Bank Pop they shortened the mast and still seem to sail a lot with reef. Looking at the live finish vid there seems to be at least one reef on the Bank Pop mono. I would like to know how often first tier race boats sail with no reefs, how many reef they have, the break down for sailing with one reef, two, three, or how many reefs; and in general see a discussion of how boats are designed for reefing and what input the skippers have since they are the ones who make the decision on when to reef.. There was an earlier vid where Bank Pop was sailing with a screecher (whatever), working jib, and a reefed main. I generally would have a full main and working jib with no screecher under those conditions. Truth be known I have not raced in many years and am more of a cruiser but always try and get the most out of my boat.