• Announcements

    • Zapata

      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

tenders

Members
  • Content count

    133
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About tenders

  • Rank
    Anarchist

Profile Information

  • Location
    City Island, NY
  1. Sealing starboard to deck

    Countersink the screw holes generously in both the deck and the side of the Starboard facing the deck, and use butyl tape.
  2. Two sailors and dogs rescued after 5 months

    I think you're being sarcastic but an amphib ship like that is indeed carrying all of those things, or is quickly capable of making substitutes if so inclined. There are easily 25 diesel engines of all sizes on that ship, between the ship's equipment and all the embarked Marine landing stuff it is likely carrying. Miles of steel cable for cranes and blocks to lift and drag things around. An impressive machine shop and electronic repair shop. Every manner of VHF antenna, cable, and connector. Industrial sewing machines. Now, are they going to sit around bobbing and fixing every derelict boat that they pass? No. They're also equipped with a lot of ordinance and a bunch of guys eager to use it. I'm really surprised they didn't sink the Sea Nymph once it was determined that it wasn't going to be quickly fixed. (I would not be surprised if they did that, but didn't tell the passengers.) It is unseamanlike to leave a hull adrift like that and turn it into some other navigator's problem at an inconvenient time.
  3. Where do you work on your boat?

    Just to set expectations, the idea of ventilating wet core is hopeful but impractical. It took decades for water to wick its way into those nooks and crannies; it is not going to come out over a couple of weeks of warm-ish weather or engineered climate. You're going to have to cut/dig/scrape it out no matter where you keep the boat, and no more than a few millimeters of whatever is left will really dry out naturally (if at all). My boat has never been covered - never. Rather than trying to bite off little pieces of this project as you have an hour or two at a time over the winter, I'd suggest biting the bullet and doing the whole job over a few days at once when the weather is warm enough for epoxy to set. If you have the right tools and materials on hand it really isn't too hard, and the dust you're going to create is messy but quite inert. I use a grinder with a diamond blade for the cutting, a chisel and a Harbor Freight oscillating saw to dig out the old core, 1/2" foam core from Defender, 3/16" G10 for the replacement skin, and 4" tape to bond the replacement skin to the surrounding deck after grinding a 2" bevel all around both sides of the repair. Mast step repair is the same except using something solid like 1/2" G10 or plywood (if a curve is necessary) instead of foam. My experiences with core repair follow.... First one: replacing deck in cockpit, working around fuel tank fill and rudderpost penetration: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?11259-1969-E32-cockpit-core-repair-an-illustrated-guide Second: replacing deck area on port side: http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7213&page=3 Third, most complicated: replacing mast step on curved deck: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?13256-Seeking-advice-on-E32-mast-step-repair
  4. Good project, and I think this is good advice. I would suggest cutting notches in the foam core where the hinge bolts penetrate it, and fill the notches with little slabs of G10 the same thickness as the core, so the hinge bolts can't crush the core. Would not be surprised if this had been the source of the initial water intrusion. I would also bevel the remaining edge all the way around , right up to the edge of the hatch, so the layers of glass you build up on top of the core can be cut to gradually fill in the taper. I tend to use a 2" bevel, which allows at least 4 layers of increasingly larger cloth to be built up. Istream, would you taper the edge of the thicker core so the foam has a trapezoidal profile? 4:1 taper? 8:1? 12:1? Would you further dig out the old 1/4" core along the edges and poke new 1/4" foam in its place? (I've done this with 1/2" core - a cheap Harbor Freight oscillating saw is amazing to get the old stuff out.) Not quite clear from the photo how the vertical panel along the hinges is constructed. Maybe just a couple of layers of glass wrapped around the edge of the core? Or is it solid glass? Or is the core exposed right up to that edge?
  5. Teaching High School Sailors to Navigate

    Learning signal flags has won me all kinds of benefits over the years. Here are flash card templates you can print double sided on a laser printer. I like to use cardstock. http://www.ussrankin.org/id592.htm
  6. Resin wont harden...

    Thanks for the rant, Pulpit! I have about 30 years of DIY experience and will reiterate simply that OLD POLY RESIN OR HARDENER MAY NOT CURE. Unlike epoxy, it has a shelf life and, as noted, it sucks when working with wood. So I don't use it any more and am very happy with my pro-epoxy, anti-poly lifestyle. Glad if it works for you.
  7. Resin wont harden...

    I throw out any polyester resin or hardener that is more than a year old. Actually I just don’t use them any more. Epoxy ingredients do not spoil like this and are much better at sealing wood. Or anything else. You can probably get the goo off with a lot of acetone. Then recoat with very fresh polyester. Then never use it again.
  8. Anyone used Kiwigrip and removed it?

    It comes off easily enough with a grinder and an 80 grit disc, as long as you’re ok with grazing the surface beneath a little. More easily than taking down the nonskid pattern in fiberglass, which is also not exactly precision work.
  9. Mystery Shore Power Outages

    Bad connections or broken wire in shore power cable? I would take a multimeter and measure voltage methodically from the shore power outlet to the boat AC panel until you find the discontinuity. And I would sure as heck not leave the boat plugged in unattended. GFCI outlets on boats are often wired wrong or old, so not working. Intermittent power that resolves itself periodically sounds to me like it is being caused by heat buildup. You don’t have an energized cable coiled up on a reel, do you? When a lot of current goes through a coiled reel, the wiring can get very hot due to lack of heat dissipation (not electrical induction BTW). I discovered this the hard way with an electric snow thrower a couple of years ago.
  10. deck recore question tying in to the old deck

    I use a 2” bevel on the surrounding skin. The 2” bevel on skin thicknesses between 1/8” and 1/4” is fine. The full 15:1 bevel is not quite as necessary when there is a substrate underneath the repair, stiffening it; also, the epoxy you’re using for the fix is stronger than the original material. i use 3/16” G10 as a replacement top skin, also beveled 2”. You can do this bevel quite well by eye and by feel if you mark the outside perimeter of the bevel with Sharpie or tape. The internal edge of the bevel needs to be so thin as to be essentially blade-sharp. Bevel the distance between them smoothly and you’ll be good to go I use an angle grinder with a 40 grit disc to do 90% of the work, then finish off with an orbital sander and 80 grit paper. With the grinder, the boat’s skin cuts like buttah, the G10 is a bit of work. i then epoxy a 4” piece of fiberglass tape to span both sides of the bevel, followed by 3”, 2”, and 1” pieces to fill the bevel. You have to think a bit about laying the tape in the corners so you don’t overfill them. Then grind smooth, sand, and fair. It is tempting to want to lay down 1-2-3-4 inch pieces instead of 4-3-2-1, but 4-3-2-1 preserves more of the long fibers that span both sides of the bevel after the final grinding and fairing.
  11. Removing hard scale on gelcoat

    Muriatic acid from a swimming pool supply store will clean this right up too. Note, add the acid to the water to dilute to the proper strength...not the other way around.
  12. I use Corecell, shipped from defender.com, and would judge anyone taking shortcuts on repairs like this by using Home Depot products as pound foolish. This job involves too much work, mess, and intrusiveness to cut corners on the guts of the repair. Also consider that the crackling sound you’re hearing is almost certainly the fibers in the top skin flexing and breaking, not so much the existing foam core, (Or, if it is the foam, it’s only making that noise because the skin fibers have completely lost their strength and stiffness.) Consider replacing that skin, or at the very least reinforcing it with new glass from the inside before installing the core. Another reason not to skimp on the core with a half-assed substitute. I use 3/16” G10 as a replacement skin. This, and Corecell, and West System epoxy, make an exceptionally stable combination. I also find it time-efficient. Maybe it costs 25% more than other methods but the material cost is not the big factor in this kind of fixin’, and it is better than what a boatyard would do for 1000% more. (I know this because a yard did the first repair like this my boat needed.)
  13. Batteries losing water at an alarming rate

    I think failed battery cells led to the charger sending too much current through the battery in pursuit of an unachievable voltage, and boiled the water off.