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About tenders

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  1. tenders

    Can you use home depot thinner on interlux brightsides?

    I stick with the Interlux solvent program for Brightside and Perfection, so that I know what to expect in terms of coverage, flow, and drying times. The cost savings, if there is any, isn't worth the uncertainty. Can't say I've ever regretted it. I'm not certain that the compounds "naptha" and "kerosene" refer to a single formulation. There are usually several different flavors of those substances on the shelf at Home Depot, to say nothing of the library of industrial substitutes available to Interlux that might also be running around using those names.
  2. tenders

    How Do They Expect You To Pour From This?

    Over 7000 other idiots apparently needed to see this video to understand how these spouts work. Not me, though, of course. Not me. I said, NOT ME.
  3. tenders

    Filling A Deck Hole

    Dremel out 1/4-1/2” of old core beyond the old hole Tape off the bottom of the old hole Wet out the edge of the old core with neat epoxy Fill the hole with a slurry of epoxy and cut-up glass cloth Maybe fill in 2-3 stages so the epoxy doesn’t get too hot while curing Remove tape, address any necessary cosmetic shortcomings, redrill (G10 feels like overkill if you have an epoxy bond on two layers of fiberglass and the core all the way around a 2” hole diameter.)
  4. tenders

    Saving An Old Tiller

    I come here for the snark and snide remarks yet here you have provided nothing but exquisite documentation and cordial discussion of a wholesome, helpful, clever project which assists a sympathetic character. What has the virus turned this place into?
  5. You'll probably find this easier than you think. I did mine with about 8 layers of fiberglass cloth, and the only issue was that too much wet and slimy cloth will slide off the repair. So just do maybe three at a time until the epoxy kicks and becomes gooey. Do the majority of the layers on the outside, and put one or two on the inside with a modest taper/scuff.
  6. tenders

    nap solvent resistant roller

    When I painted my mast in 2015 using Interprotect as the primer, Gouvernail recommended the Wooster 3/16" nap "all paint" R206-4 Super Doo-Z roller and it worked well. I see I also wrote down that sailorman44 recommended the Wooster Red Feather rollers for the later coats of Perfection, which also worked perfectly...and he did the same again above. I found both on Amazon.
  7. tenders

    Winch drum losing a grip.

    I don’t get it. My 50-year-old bronze Barlow winches are totally smooth and continue to grip just fine as long as there’s reasonable tension in the line. Could cpt757’s issue be a problem with the self-tailing mechanism rather than the winch drum itself?
  8. tenders

    balsa core deck repair

    What about the previous repair made it poor? Whatever it was, a halfassed effort using epoxy injection will be worse, and a complete waste of time, because a booger of epoxy in the middle of wet balsa mush accomplishes nothing. I agree with SJB - do it properly and remove the core. You don’t really know how large the repair needs to be until you get to dry core. The only variable is whether the situation is more easily handled from above, or below. I’m an on-top guy myself, but if you can flip the boat over maybe I could be convinced to go the other way.
  9. tenders

    Bulkhead repair with G-10?

    I believe some may have confused G10, which has incredible shear strength and is easy to adhere things to but looks like construction material, with Starboard, which does not have any shear strength to speak of, is virtually impossible to adhere anything to, but has a nice, finished, colored texture. It's an easy mistake to make because they're both amazing in their own ways. I've used G10 to repair rotten plywood bulkheads and it works great. I prefer it to plywood because it won't rot like the plywood that it's replacing. http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?5178-Chainplates-and-Bulkhead-replace/page3&p=52891#post52891
  10. I’ve used Rustoleum spray zinc paint on my prop for a couple of years. Honestly I’m not sure how much good it does chemically but it does seem to reduce prop growth a little, perhaps due to mechanical (adherent, or lack thereof) properties. Or it could be an entirely placebo effect. Regardless, it’s cheap, doesn’t hurt anything, so I keep doing it.
  11. tenders

    Painting a racing dinghy

    Quantum (“flows like milk”) sounds like a newer brand of two-part LP paint like Perfection and Awlgrip. I love Perfection and have painted (rolled) an aluminum mast, wooden spreaders, part of a deck, and a transom with it over the past few years. These two-part paints are far superior to one-part Brightside - much harder and more durable. They are a bit more hassle to apply, but in my experience the prep is so much more work than the actual painting that it’s almost a no-brainer to spend the 15% extra time and a bit more money on the two-part. The OP’s description of his Brightside finish sounds like a textbook case of not-enough-thinner added to the paint before applying. And the durability of the result also sounds like textbook one-part paint. It does not do well in contested elections, ie boat vs. piling, boat vs. fender, boat vs. mooring buoy. I’m not a huge fan of foam rollers; the adhesive holding the foam to the roller is always iffy and tends to let go at exactly the worst time - even on branded West System rollers, which you’d think are as resistant to solvents as possible. Gouvernail out me into Wooster 3/16" nap "all paint" R206-4 Super Doo-Z rollers from Amazon, and now that’s all I use except for a disposable little chip brush for nooks and crannies (monitoring departing bristles very carefully). My rule of thumb is that I f the finish doesn’t level like glass five minutes after application, add more thinner.
  12. tenders

    General fucking recall

    I'm with Blunted on this one - reaching starts introduce drama 100% of the time, and they enable T-boning at speeds that cannot happen easily with lines set more squarely. I counted four boats over early, do we agree with the general recall decision? Tough call to make in the heat of the moment. I probably would have decided that too, but on reflection, I think it would have been OK to keep running the race and call each transgressor back, especially obviously ADD, to atone for their terrible decision(s) rather than reboot the whole fleet and erase the consequences from the racing record. Given the lack of urgency by several boats in the drone footage, I'm guessing there were multiple fleets gathered around waiting for their sequences to begin. They were not being very sportsmanlike about it.
  13. tenders

    USS Midway 1, Sea Esta 0

    Predictable Karma for having named one’s sailboat “Sea Esta.” We expect that kind of crap from powerboaters, but sailors should know better. Or pay the price.
  14. tenders

    Dinghy on mooring buoy in a rolly bay - capsize preventer?

    The most frequent and effective fix to this common problem is to lash a few fenders horizontally onto the gunwales near the boat's maximum beam. This adds outward buoyancy that will significantly reduce the heeling/capsize tendency.
  15. tenders

    Which Topside Paint?

    I'd say Perfection is 25% more difficult to apply, 3X more expensive, but 10X better once it's on. However, the OP already knows 2-parts are great because the question is Perfection vs. Epifanes 2-part. On this I have no comparison but I've been very happy with Perfection, where even slight imperfection is still pretty darn good.