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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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  1. I adore the stuff for trim and nonstructural purposes, but StarBoard is far too flexible to be a good backing plate and is pretty expensive for that purpose too. Also, it creeps under pressure. G10, stainless, aluminum, plywood, and slabs of hull from knackered old boats are the materials of choice depending on cost/cosmetic/machining/finishing appetite. Some people swear they like to lay up 6-8 layers of their own fiberglass cloth and epoxy but I can't see how that is a good use of time or cosmetic effort.
  2. Looks great. What kind of replacement core and top skin did you use? How did you join the new top skin to the old adjacent skin? Top finish is paint/grit or Kiwi Grip?
  3. I do these repairs with foam as the replacement core, 3/16" G10 as the replacement upper skin, with blocks of 1/2" G10 as the core underneath high-crush hardware like stanchions. The old and new skins are beveled, and joined with layers of fiberglass tape of increasing width to fit into the bevel. There is no way anyone can convince me this isn't better than the original. Slicing out the core in strips? What, this job isn't messy enough already?
  4. Where did you find a powder coated with a mast-sized kiln, and how much does that cost? (Asking for a friend.)
  5. What is that stuff? Is it very different from Whink, which is distinctly acidic but that you buy in grocery stores for pennies?
  6. 2cm deflection and a known wet core? What other signs are you waiting for, engraved invitations? My deck step repair on my '69 Ericson 32: http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=165612
  7. Sounds like a really fun way spend a final summer Saturday...before cutting off several fingers and drowning in the pure waters of the Hudson River, surrounded by hundreds of jeering spectators wearing WoodenBoat tee shirts.
  8. Recore starboard cabin top Rebuild leaky main cabin hatch Repaint transom, possibly cockpit Time for all: I'd like to say 30 hours, but the fact is, it's unknown. These are the known unknowns. It's the unknown unknowns that really get you.
  9. Confirming: the stuff I've bought from NORVA on many occasions is the same stuff I've bought from McMaster. If there is a conspiracy between them to foist nonepoxy phenolics upon us unsuspecting boat fixers, they are pulling it off really well. This stuff can have its edges rounded off with a router if you are gentle. It is very hard material, and wears normal tooling quickly so I use carbide or diamond circular saw blades on my (stock consumer-grade) table saw and cobalt drill bits in my (consumer) drill press. A lot of the projects I've done with G10 have involved edges that are tapered a few inches and for that I use a grinder or an orbital sander with a fairly harsh grit. As long as you understand that it it quite easy to work with. It glues nicely with epoxy and takes paint well, as you might imagine.
  10. Obviously we've got crossed signals here someplace. I'm reading this as a recore job with the top skin being replaced. Keep the bottom skin in as-is. Add your divinylcell core. Reinforce the fitting areas with plywood (though I prefer 1/2" G10) instead of compressible core. And put the final skin of 1/8 or 3/16" G10 on top. Or tell me to eff off. Which is fine, but I've done this on three sections of my boat already and will be doing a fourth this winter, and it works a treat. Where did "150 square feet" come from? 10 x 5 = 50 in original post.
  11. 3/16" G10 is $18/sqft, 1/8" G10 is $13/sqft from McMaster and probably cheaper from other sources. I'm assuming the deck is not a 10' x 5' rectangle. You can lay up that much epoxy and glass at G10 strength, consistency, and finish levels for less than $13/sqft, counting time and materials? I cannot. I had to do this with a 1.5' x 5' strip of deck underneath my mast a year ago and have well over $25/sqft, considering time at $50/hr. Perhaps others are a lot faster than I am as an enthusiastic amateur. But I agree that deck camber would have to be matched with segmented strips of G10, and if strength were critical as it was with my cambered application, maybe impossible.
  12. 3/16" G10, beveled 2" around the edges and epoxied to the surrounding (also beveled) deck via layers of fiberglass tape starting with 4" width, then 3", then 2", then 1". You'll be way ahead time- and strength-wise with the G10. Makes a lot less mess too. Only more expensive if your time is worth very little.
  13. If I were going up and down that mast to work on it, I would want redundant halyards on both port and starboard sides.
  14. Water has to fight its way into every little corpuscle of that foam - there may well be water between the skins, but it is probably not embedded in the foam. And if it is, the water will have to fight its way out of the foam too.
  15. Try Mark Plastics in Corona, CA. (951) 735-7705. Guy's name is Mark Heacox, and yeah, he's already heard all the jokes. They've made me replacement portlights for my Ericson that were not too expensive. Seem to have inherited the tooling from GO Industries, who made lots of original portlights in SoCal production boats. markplastics.com