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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

tenders

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About tenders

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    City Island, NY
  1. PSS Dripless Shaft Seals: Pros/Cons/Experiences?

    I have a Lasdrop shaft seal, probably not made any more but just like the PSS. I’ve had it since 1995 and don’t care for it. The next time the shaft comes out I will replace it with a traditional packing gland with modern goretex or graphite packing. The shaft seal: * To do anything, requires removal of the shaft from the engine coupling, which is a hard job, especially on my boat that has a vee drive. * Has never been dry. There is very little practical difference between “drips like a packing gland” and “drips less” so why bother. * Failed severely when my fuel tank leaked in dry dock and dissolved the rubber coating of the bellows. Had this happened with the boat in the water, she would have sunk. The seal technically works but the packing gland is simpler, more adjustable, and if it fails, fails gradually.
  2. Why paint topsides?

    Paul speaks the truth. The two-part is a little fussier to apply, but not much, and the hard part, the prep, is the same.
  3. Smart phone signal generator

    Interesting, thank YOU for the tip. But the app is called iNstall by Millport Media. You have to find it on the App Store in the iPhone version (iPad only searches will not find it.)
  4. Entropy Resin --> A Gougeon Company Now

    No UV-inhibitor hardener in the West Systems lineup? Au contraire, mon thermoplastique frére! Say hello to my little friend, 207: https://www.westsystem.com/207-special-clear-hardener/ Goigeon bought Entropy for its bio-friendly formulation that gets it into government contracts, probably not its UV. https://www.compositesworld.com/news/gougeon-brothers-acquires-entropy-resins But epoxy and sunlight really don’t go well together, even when topcoated with varnish. UV is relentless and finds a way in, around, or through. I’ve always come to regret clear epoxy coatings exposed to weather.
  5. Is this bad?

    This was settled twenty years ago with the advent of the internet. The accessibility of repair information and the easy availability of parts means that there is one and only one demonstrable reason to convert an Atomic Four-equipped sailboat to diesel. That reason is range. It is certainly not safety. The fact that thousands of gas-powered powerboats are manufactured and operated safely to this day, often by complete imbeciles, is irrefutable proof that marine gas engines are safe ENOUGH. There are a thousand ways to come to harm with boats. Carelessness or ignorance handling fuel is just not a frequent one, especially with sailors. It is certainly not reliability. The easy parts are all cross-referenced on the internet and available at auto parts stores, and some of them are even available at Walmart. The hard and the easy parts are available from Moyer, plus a complete service/rebuild manual, plus as much support as you’d ever want from the website and forums. If your A4 engine isn’t running well, it’s your fault. Add electronic ignition, a fuel filter, and a fuel pressure gauge, and you’ll avoid 80% of the annual maintenance of the engine when it was designed. Good luck tracking down recurring fuel, air leak, and injector problems in your fantasy perfect diesel engine, with reasonably-priced Volvo and Yamaha parts on the shelf waiting for you to pluck them off. It is certainly not cost. Diesel engine cost aside, replacing a prop, shaft, strut, stern tube, couplings, controls, engine instruments, and wiring is going to put you back thousands in labor or the equivalent time and effort. Installing a rebuilt Moyer A4 takes half a day. There’s an old joke on the Moyer message boards: So, what do you like best about your diesel - the vibration, or the smell?
  6. Epoxy question

    For small batches measured by volume in a medicine cup or similar, I can see how the higher viscosity of the resin compared to the hardener might result in a slightly lower amount of resin ending up in the final mix - it sticks to the cup, the tall meniscus distorts and understates the actual amount being measured, etc. Even with that said, I still don’t deliberately try to overdose the resin. I can totally see myself blithely yet carefully mixing both doses of one part together, especially in the heat of a big project where one can runs out and has to be replaced. I’m surprised I haven’t done it already, actually.
  7. Epoxy question

    Mix another batch, see what happens in the cup. Maybe you used two measures of only one part. Cold epoxy can be hard to mix, how long did you stir it?
  8. Sailors Powerboat

    Yes, of course. By sailboaters
  9. Sailors Powerboat

    This discussion is so much nobler than if it would be if it were powerboaters talking about sailboats.
  10. Help me name my boat!

    Vagisail. Biggest douche afloat, based on your posted interests.
  11. Seized s/s bolts

    Very much so. I consider them sufficiently equivalent in strength for equal thicknesses. G10 is also very easy to paint.
  12. Sealing starboard to deck

    Countersink the screw holes generously in both the deck and the side of the Starboard facing the deck, and use butyl tape.
  13. Two sailors and dogs rescued after 5 months

    I think you're being sarcastic but an amphib ship like that is indeed carrying all of those things, or is quickly capable of making substitutes if so inclined. There are easily 25 diesel engines of all sizes on that ship, between the ship's equipment and all the embarked Marine landing stuff it is likely carrying. Miles of steel cable for cranes and blocks to lift and drag things around. An impressive machine shop and electronic repair shop. Every manner of VHF antenna, cable, and connector. Industrial sewing machines. Now, are they going to sit around bobbing and fixing every derelict boat that they pass? No. They're also equipped with a lot of ordinance and a bunch of guys eager to use it. I'm really surprised they didn't sink the Sea Nymph once it was determined that it wasn't going to be quickly fixed. (I would not be surprised if they did that, but didn't tell the passengers.) It is unseamanlike to leave a hull adrift like that and turn it into some other navigator's problem at an inconvenient time.
  14. Where do you work on your boat?

    Just to set expectations, the idea of ventilating wet core is hopeful but impractical. It took decades for water to wick its way into those nooks and crannies; it is not going to come out over a couple of weeks of warm-ish weather or engineered climate. You're going to have to cut/dig/scrape it out no matter where you keep the boat, and no more than a few millimeters of whatever is left will really dry out naturally (if at all). My boat has never been covered - never. Rather than trying to bite off little pieces of this project as you have an hour or two at a time over the winter, I'd suggest biting the bullet and doing the whole job over a few days at once when the weather is warm enough for epoxy to set. If you have the right tools and materials on hand it really isn't too hard, and the dust you're going to create is messy but quite inert. I use a grinder with a diamond blade for the cutting, a chisel and a Harbor Freight oscillating saw to dig out the old core, 1/2" foam core from Defender, 3/16" G10 for the replacement skin, and 4" tape to bond the replacement skin to the surrounding deck after grinding a 2" bevel all around both sides of the repair. Mast step repair is the same except using something solid like 1/2" G10 or plywood (if a curve is necessary) instead of foam. My experiences with core repair follow.... First one: replacing deck in cockpit, working around fuel tank fill and rudderpost penetration: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?11259-1969-E32-cockpit-core-repair-an-illustrated-guide Second: replacing deck area on port side: http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7213&page=3 Third, most complicated: replacing mast step on curved deck: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?13256-Seeking-advice-on-E32-mast-step-repair
  15. Good project, and I think this is good advice. I would suggest cutting notches in the foam core where the hinge bolts penetrate it, and fill the notches with little slabs of G10 the same thickness as the core, so the hinge bolts can't crush the core. Would not be surprised if this had been the source of the initial water intrusion. I would also bevel the remaining edge all the way around , right up to the edge of the hatch, so the layers of glass you build up on top of the core can be cut to gradually fill in the taper. I tend to use a 2" bevel, which allows at least 4 layers of increasingly larger cloth to be built up. Istream, would you taper the edge of the thicker core so the foam has a trapezoidal profile? 4:1 taper? 8:1? 12:1? Would you further dig out the old 1/4" core along the edges and poke new 1/4" foam in its place? (I've done this with 1/2" core - a cheap Harbor Freight oscillating saw is amazing to get the old stuff out.) Not quite clear from the photo how the vertical panel along the hinges is constructed. Maybe just a couple of layers of glass wrapped around the edge of the core? Or is it solid glass? Or is the core exposed right up to that edge?