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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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    City Island, NY
  1. epoxy 5200 and or a bolt?

    I think we just saw the tail end of a bipolar peak. Might be back for more action in six months unless he's then moved on to converting a Ford Explorer into a convertible.
  2. Refinishing a very ugly aluminum mast

    I think the old zinc chromate stuff has been taken off the market for environmental reasons. My instructions starting with the Interprotect 2000E came from tech support at Interlux, I talked to the guy for almost half an hour and took careful notes.
  3. Refinishing a very ugly aluminum mast

    Here's what I did once I got my mast sanded; these are specific steps but they mostly apply to the priming, which is a function of hard-to-paint aluminum. The actual topcoat painting using Perfection didn't take much longer than one-part paint, and is much, much, MUCH more durable: * InterProtect 2000E, one coat, then Primecote on top after lightly sanding with 80 grit * Sand aluminum with 40-60 grit * Wipe down with Solvent Wash 202 (Xylene/Naptha/acetone) * Apply Interprotect within 1 hour of sanding aluminum, use 4" Wooster 3/16" nap "all paint" R206-4 Super Doo-Z roller from Amazon (source: Gouvernail) * Lightly sand Interprotect with 80 grit, wipe with solvent and allow to dry, apply Primecote after at least 12 hours dry time at 60 degrees * Interlux Epoxy Primecote 404/414 thinned 25% with Brushing Reducer 2333N * Use a foam roller with foam brush for tipping (the Jen foam brushes from Amazon work well) * Let dry 10 hrs at 60 degrees * Sand with 120-220 grit * Fill dents and gouges with epoxy * Recoat with Epoxy Primekote 404/414 thinned 25% with Brushing Reducer 2333N * Sand with 220-320 grit * Use acetone to clean after sanding * Interlux Perfection Snow White * Pot life 3 hours at 60 degrees, 2 hours at 73 degrees * First coat may not be opaque * "Touch dry" in 7 hours at 60 degrees, 4 hours at 73 degrees * Overcoat between 14 hours and 3 days at 60 degrees, 6 hrs and 2 days at 73 degrees (one coat a day) * Sand between coats with 320-360 grit paper, remove residue with Brushing Thinner 2333N * 2 or 3 coats * Full hardness after 7-10 days * Avoid applying in late evening as condensation causes loss of gloss
  4. Delamination of fiberglass layer in deck?

    I've had my '69 Ericson apart just like yours for substantial areas of core repair done from above, and can confirm that the bottom layer of the sandwich is much thinner fiberglass than the top, and not uniformly laid, probably one cloth's thickness in spots. My boat too has a liner independent of the three-layer construction. The liner was much more carefully laid than that lower layer of fiberglass sandwich. I would guess the crew knew that part of the boat was going to get cut out for the hatch anyway, so they skimped on the lower layer. The boat's lasted almost 50 years, were you considering a warranty claim? I think it's going to be fine.
  5. Petit Sea Gold-anyone tried it?

    > but the club launch prohibits flammables. You mean they prohibit propane cans for Magma grills, butane lighters, dinghy outboard engines, portable generators, jerry cans tucked into duffel bags, aerosol cans for WD-40/starting fluid/fogging oil, liquid fiberglass resin...and cans of varnish? Methinks you have a lot of sinners at your yacht club. No wonder your brightwork "looks like hell," because that's where they're all going, if those are the rules. You should offer a few novenas to St. Ignitius of the Broken Wind to atone for their sins of inflammability.
  6. Beating Corrosion

    I have not heard of MMO and WD-40 being used as a penetrant, but I can confirm that a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid is one of the cheapest and most effective penetrants ever devised by mankind.
  7. Honda 50hp outboard for McGregor 26 surges at high revs

    Not unusual for those engines to hesitate or stall as the boat is slicing through manatees, swimmers, Optimist fleets, aids to navigation, or rocks/sand/mud near shore. Have you checked the prop for shredded flesh? Perhaps the protective coat of barnacles needs to be renewed.
  8. Chainplate Recore

    I'm well aware of Moon's loony/lunar track record, but he's right in this case. The chainplate is going to surge a bit and if it is up against a structural part of the boat it is going to leak. Don't you agree?
  9. Magiceasy 9 second chip fix Anarchy

    "Avoid getting wet for 14 days" is kind of a big deal on a boat, isn't it?
  10. Companionway Board Renovation

    You just haven't talked to me! I made replacement boards out of 3/4" StarBoard and haven't done a thing in ten years except use them and scrub them with a Magic Eraser sponge. The original wood was 9/16" I think. Compared to 3/4", 1/2" StarBoard would have been cheaper but wobbled in the channel noticeably and wouldn't accommodate the notches that hold adjacent boards against each other - I was afraid it would fatigue and break. This thicker stock required routing out a channel on the port and starboard edges of the boards so they'd fit into the companionway retaining slot, sort of a PITA. StarBoard is noticeably heavier than the wood was, but it's worth it for the zero maintenance. Note that I am an entirely hack woodworker/plastic fabricator. No training whatsoever. Note that the original boards may not be symmetrical trapezoids! DAMHIKT. G10 is not UV-resistant and would require painting. But you could use nice thin, light pieces if you wanted to. Might you be able to put a nice easy vinyl wrap on top of it? Too much work for too little benefit, IMO.
  11. trans to shaft flange

    This is a real bear of a job - perhaps the worst thing I've had to do on a boat, and I've done it four times. I have terrible access to the shaft coupling underneath the engine; it's a V-drive, which otherwise makes most things very easy. If Rasputin's trick doesn't work, I think you have two choices: (1) buy high quality Grade 8 bolts that are smaller in diameter than those the coupling currently uses, so instead of threading them INTO the engine coupler you pass them THROUGH the engine coupler, and use high quality nuts, possibly doubled nuts, on the other side to really squeeze the couplers together and coax the shaft out. (2) use a Sawzall and cut the coupling off by running the Sawzall parallel to the shaft. (Moonduster's advice was 90 degrees off on this, in my opinion; you don't need to cut the shaft, but you could if you find shafts less expensive to replace than couplers.) Eventually you'll get the coupler off, like peeling a banana. Replace the coupler with the component that every boat should use to begin with: a "split coupler," which will not have this problem the next time it needs to be removed.
  12. Chainplate Recore

    Major Tom makes a good point, but I like Moonduster's plan better. Get the patch out of the way of the potential movement. I bet if you do this kind of repair again that you will watch the color boundaries more carefully. You now have to deal with adjacent white and grey cosmetic issues, and the white part is really small for all the work necessary. Certainly solvable but a PITA. If you kept the cut at least 2.5" away from the white you could still poke new core into the area, could still taper the edges nicely, but would not have to deal with fixing or painting those tiny bits of white gel coat while your grey cosmetic repair is setting up. DAMHIKT, but my boat is white and grey too....!
  13. Cutting out a bulkhead

    Agree that "bi-metal" blades make all the difference with oscillating saw tooling. Don't buy anything else except diamond-tipped if you're doing masonry, definitely not "high carbon steel." In this job you can have any two of the following: fast, cheap, or clean. Your oscillating saw is cheap and clean, but it's slow. My go-to tool for this purpose is a grinder with a diamond saw attachment. That's fast and cheap, but it throws a lot of dust. It works amazingly on fiberglass decks, bulkheads, G10, most everything, and lasts forever. Maybe for this application you'd want to hack out a little fence/guard so the blade can't get places you don't want it.
  14. Chainplate Recore

    I would, and have, have used foam and/or G10 as the core in those areas where the chainplates penetrate. Looks like you could still pop in slugs of G10 if you wanted to, perhaps cutting out some of the (new) core in a regular shape to make it easier to install.
  15. Backing Plates

    I adore the stuff for trim and nonstructural purposes, but StarBoard is far too flexible to be a good backing plate and is pretty expensive for that purpose too. Also, it creeps under pressure. G10, stainless, aluminum, plywood, and slabs of hull from knackered old boats are the materials of choice depending on cost/cosmetic/machining/finishing appetite. Some people swear they like to lay up 6-8 layers of their own fiberglass cloth and epoxy but I can't see how that is a good use of time or cosmetic effort.