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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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About Ringmaster

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  • Location
    Chesapeake Bay
  • Interests
    Racing on the Chesapeake.
    Chartering in the BVIs
    O Gauge trains in the winter.

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  1. Thanks. Appreciate the tips.
  2. Thanks for the help and info guys. My buddy is going to pull the trigger.
  3. So if you purchasing a complete system is everything you need to do that backbone in the box?
  4. One of the things I don't get is B&G states that the depth/speed transducer comes with a 7' cable. How do they expect 7' to get anywhere on the average size boat?
  5. BTW no boom vang is not good. The boom will fly up in the air off the wind and you will have less power off the wind. Rig up a 4-1 system. Through bolt a stainless boom bail on both the mast base and about 3' back on the boom. Make it a 45 deg angle. 3' is just a guess.
  6. No altering of the main is required. The boom is more than a foot and a half longer than the mainsail foot. The factory did this to allow the boom to be able to be connected to the stupid stern rail traveler. Just cut it 6" longer than your 'E' measurement. A traveler just aft of the cockpit lockers is not a problem daysailing with friends. With the factory setup you have to look backwards to grab the mainsheet. Another plus with the traveler in the cockpit is that someone else can dump the main in a big puff if your busy. Just do it. :-) It's the way the factory should have done it. Look at a Merit 25.
  7. Thanks for the reply. If the "2" is mostly a small display upgrade I too think he'll be just fine with the T41 displays. Plus the Defender deal seems like a bargain for what you get. Hopefully the quality is the same. I've read good things about the "2".
  8. I owned a Merit 22 for 9 years. Loved the boat until it got hit by lightening. I believe that block that you have an outhaul running thru was added by a previous owner. I don't think the boat came with an adjustable outhaul from the factory. Having said that I made a number of modifications to my boat to make it much easier to sail, safer and faster. First I cut about a foot and a half off the end of the boom and added a 3 sheave outhaul and reefing block that fit the boom extrusion perfectly. I can't remember who made it but it was a stamped stainless block w/ 3 sheaves. Center sheave was for wire. I cut the boom because I thought it was too close to the backstay and I also felt that the stern rail "traveler" was cheap and worthless since it only "traveled" less than a foot off centerline. I also didn't like a pile of rope swinging by my face when jibing. On top of those things the factory mainsheet does not pull down on the boom which makes it hard to trim the leech. I added a full width Harken traveler just aft of the opening cockpit lockers. I added a 4 part Harken ratchet mainsheet block setup connected to the boom via a thru bolted stainless bail. I added a windward sheeting traveler car which makes it easy to ease the main in puffs AND you don't need a bunch of blocks and cleats bolted to the sides of the cockpit to control the traveler. I had the new outhaul exit forward on the boom on the bottom thru a turning block so it would lead aft to a cam cleat also on the underside of the boom. Reefing lines were now internal also. I wouldn't go to 1/4" halyards unless you upgraded to a higher tech rope. If your not racing I would think StaSet in 5/16 for jib halyard and 3/8' for main would work. If you want to downsize try Ultra Tech. Not too expensive. Enjoy the boat.
  9. Wow, I guess this stuff is not that popular.
  10. I have a friend who owns a C&C30MKII and it's just used for daysailing and a little cruising. The boat presently has an old NAVICO system that's shot. I saw a B&G T41 system on Defender's website for $1250. It includes 2 color displays plus a GPS receiver along with the normal thru hull and masthead transducers, cables, etc. How much of a difference is this product from the Triton2 in regards to functions and reliability? A Triton 2 system WITH 1 display and without the GPS starts at $1400. Add a second display and your near two grand.
  11. I just installed new portlights (windows) this spring. Mine are frameless and mount without hardware. After much research and after watching a pro on a youtube vidio I decided to use a combination of 3M VHB tape and a small bead of DOW795 adheasive/caulk. Beats the hell out of just using a adheasive/caulk and mushing the window into place with tons of the stuff dripping everywhere. Best advice I can offer is shop around for a plexiglass fabricator to cut your windows. I'm in Maryland and I had quotes from $29 to $150 each to cut out basically a 30" x 8" rectangle. The highest quotes ($86 & $150) came from business in Annapolis. And industry folks keep asking why people are leaving the sport. By the way the $28 guy cut my windows while I waited. The other clowns wanted me to come back in 2 or 3 weeks for pickup after placing the order.
  12. What about nylon?
  13. Manufactures of thru hulls or transducers usually sell the required cutter for a cheap price. That way you get a perfect fit.
  14. Reminds me of the show "Locked up abroad". No thanks.