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  1. Spoonie

    Laser puncture wound

    Given the age of the boat. Why not jam a bit of ply on the back. Cut enough of a slot to get ply into hull. Is string or screws to hold in place while glue sets. Grind back deck area. Glass matt and resin, go sailing till it breaks for good May be consider an inspection hatch at one end to give yourself less work?
  2. Spoonie

    Trimming with rudder

    So given above, I thought I would give a description of the whole walking to windward thing from my perspective: 1) Set your boat up for a fast close hauled course. Basically whatever gets you max speed for normal close hauled angles. Nominally you will be in “mid trim” for the conditions. The boat will be balanced with just a small amount of positive helm 2) anticipate any coming gusts and lulls 3) As a gust comes on to the boat, reduce pressure in the main. However you feel best to do this. Pending if it’s a dinghy, yacht or whatever, it might be traveller, but more likely fine tune or sheet. The end game here with main pressure is you should be able to let go of the tiller, and the boat will round up at a slow to moderate pace, taking a big arc. If you can’t use two fingers on the helm through this process, then your balance is wrong. In a yacht, we’re talking may be an extra 5 degrees of heel tops. So you need to get use to anticipating the gust, and managing your main pressure so change in helm pressure is manageable. I can’t think of any way to explain this other than it takes experience. In a laser for example, nominally it’d be 8-12” of sheet or 4-6” on the corner with the vang strapped. (Pending circumstances) If you get it wrong in a small boat, you just use helm to correct. If you get it wrong in a big boat, angular momentum will screw you. 4) as above, relax the tiller and let the boat take a relatively slow/moderate arc to windward, pinching a little, but in a controlled fashion 5) as the boat pinches and flattens, or the puff settles, start to ease the arc to windward but hold that heading. Start to pull the main back on, but not fully. or sometimes fully, pending on how flat the water is and the size of the gust 6) as the puff eases, slowly arc the boat back to a close hauled course. 7) once back to close hauled, return to “mid trim” and max speed. Basically, the boat should be at max speed (given the heading) before you take the arcs. And it’s then just a series of controlled s curves, taking bights to windward, oscillating between max speed close hauled and little pinches across flat water and gusts This works really well in slop where you nominally won’t be sailing at close hauled, but cracked a little. That allows you to punch through the waves at max speed. When you get a gust and/or some flat water, pinch it up a little and grab some height. Most yachts also don’t go (much) faster upwind between gusts. It’s not like they’re going to hop up on the plane. They’re stuck at hull speed. You might as well do something with that energy. Most dinghys are the same. Cats I think are different as are skiffs. In short, Gust -> Ease,pinch,hold,trim,ease,return,trim The trick when helm and main sheet are different people is getting that right amount of sheet ease in a gust. Too much and you loose the positive pressure you need in the helm to get that little slow arced pinch. Too little sheet in the gust and the boat rounds up uncontrollably. Fast first, and Be one with the leach pressure...
  3. Spoonie

    Trimming with rudder

    I first learnt how to walk to windward in lasers by accident. I was actually being lazy, had crack the sheet 6-8" off the corner on a windy day heading off at some angle at max speed. I was just taking height when and if I could. Now I understand why it works and how to apply it in a more refined manner. That day I turned around to look back half way up the first beat and went "holy fcuK". It was like I just discovered fire. When I was a little older, I was trimming main a lot mostly because everyone assumed as a laser sailor I could trim a main (go figure). One owner "missed" a race and called me "I want your to drive..." I learnt more about trimming main on a big boat in that one afternoon than I think I have over the rest of my life. Basically, he missed the race on purpose because he felt I needed educating (ie, he was getting frustrated). In one afternoon I'd learnt the language needed for us to talk and we were away... Then yeah, shortly after we got to the "no talk needed" phase. Leach pressure people... it matters. On the 30'er, I just manage the fine tune but that's just an over grown dinghy and I enjoy racing it short handed. I believe that's standard operating procedure on mumm 30's so I don't feel too bad. On bigger boats, I find that communication has to be so strong, or Angular momentum kicks in and you've gone from two fingers on the wheel to fists full one way or the other before you know it. Nothing like a couple tonnes of pressure hanging off that leach (or not) (oh hey where did my helm go!) TL;DR If you're green, main trim and helm should swap over every now and then. You'll both learn a lot! Though While I'm on a role here... When I was first starting in lasers, I idolized Glen Bourke. At the ripe old age of 15, I approached him at the awards dinner of the nationals in Perth for an autograph. His advice then? paraphrasing: "If you want to win races, you need to learn how to sail faster *and* higher than everyone else". Completely lost on me at the time, I mean, he could have actually told me *how* and not just *what*. Of course he could have also just been brushing me off so I he could finish his bottle of well... whatever... I still have the autograph though. It's in a book under my desk here ...anyway.
  4. Spoonie

    Trimming with rudder

    I think you must have miss read my two posts. My pdf was North U's principles on steering to trim, not a comment on random hacking. Either way, Fast first... everything else comes down to experience *shrug*
  5. Spoonie

    Trimming with rudder

    A lot of laser coaches are big advocates of this. I personally never found it fast but then I never really won anything major. Not as much in the North U Book as I remember, but the basics are on this page. NorthUSteeringToWind.PDF Same principles apply directly when running, and a variation on a theme (go fast first) when beating. As @Somebody Else said: Helm, Trim, joined at the hip, and all that guff... lots of communication
  6. Spoonie

    Trimming with rudder

    From memory, there's a really good discussion on this in the North U Smart book, including some articles from Dave Dellenbaugh . I'll see if I can find my copy Edit: It wouldn't surprise me if Frank talks about it in his book too...
  7. Spoonie

    Trimming with rudder

    For the record, there is nothing wrong with steering to trim in a whole range of circumstances. Just sitting here, I can think of more usecases where it makes sense to steer to your trim than the other way around. Only a few of those are because you’re lazy. The specifics are dependant on the boat, how much the breeze is shifting, how big the gusts are. But rarely is the fastest path between two points a straight line.
  8. Spoonie

    Trimming with rudder

    Do you win many races? Not that winning races matters to the OP per se’
  9. Spoonie

    Brisbane to Keppel 2018

    As someone who grew up in Gladstone, I wouldn't necessarily begrudge them that. Not having someone hang around for the silverware though...
  10. Spoonie

    Someone has been naughty!

    We also used to weigh mast sections. A heavier section was generally stiffer. I had a favourite Radial section I kept for years. Part sentimental, part psychological, part it was really stiff. When I eventually sold it (to Brian Connolly of Zhik fame) he hated it using it only once. Others would bring components home from different manufacturers while travelling. US, EU and AUS sections and sails had different characteristics enough you could tell through general inspection. How much did it matter? I don't know... ... But there is a masters sailor in Queensland called Brad Taylor who used to turn up with a clapped out boat and sail, and regularly smash everyone. There is nothing wrong with being particular in your equipment selection and preparation (within class rules). Across a campaign you will hammer that gear and you want it to be the best possible state to start with. Elite sports people can also be very... Particular (ne compulsive) when it comes to things as well. That doesn't mean those things are realistically material to performance. And as mentioned, the top laser guys need to be able to step into any boat and make it go.
  11. Spoonie

    What's your boat beer?

    Correct. It’s really more of a ‘at anchor’ beer. I need to get another case actually.
  12. Spoonie

    Someone has been naughty!

    yeah but they're all identically imperfect, each in their own unique way. Occasionally you get a lemon and a rocket ship. Occasionally a whole batch goes out bad or good. But generally they're all close enough for jazz and in consideration to wear and tear. I would suggest only really the very elite few can tell the difference.
  13. Spoonie

    What's your boat beer?

    My boat name is Delirium... ...just Say'n Of course there is a heirarchy. Sierra Nevada Greenies are fairly high up there. Fat Yak Lazy Yak if we're having more than one. While not beer, I suspect some of this will make it's way onboard this year:
  14. Spoonie

    what is it?

    If it is a J99, it looks like my kinda boat. http://www.jboats.com/j99 Though the bottom mainsheet block is in the wrong spot. should be between the traveler and the tiller for short handed.
  15. Yeah, I was quoted 5K to get a NA to sign off on my 30'er. That seemed like a "I don't want to do it" price to me but I didn't exactly shop around after