jgbrown

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About jgbrown

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    Vancouver

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  1. jgbrown

    Modern wiring standards

    Yes, non adhesive heat shrink is not very useful for this. I don't think I've even had any around in years.
  2. jgbrown

    Modern wiring standards

    If you don't want to have to fuck around with it again, put a bit of heat shrink large enough to join from sheath to sheath if joining 2 multi conductors. If not, I like a bit of heak shrink shrunk full over the outer sheath, a bit over the start of the multi conductor wire, and less so as it goes along to provide a bit of strain relief.
  3. jgbrown

    Sailing around the world in a San Juan 24

    Thanks. A rubber chicken would be a totally suitable mascot for such an event.
  4. jgbrown

    1982 J/36 for $20K... issues?

    Guess they put the bow back on on that one?
  5. jgbrown

    Question regarding tape.

    heat shrink to hull tape. White UV resistant, clean removal for 6 months.
  6. jgbrown

    Mocking Ads on Craigslist

    https://pensacola.craigslist.org/bod/d/1985-sailboat-com-pac-yacht/6732205409.html 1985 Sailboat Com-pac Yacht live aboard - $3900 18' liveaboard for 4k$ good deal....
  7. jgbrown

    Mocking Ads on Craigslist

    https://pensacola.craigslist.org/boa/d/learn-how-to-buy-fix-sell/6752100653.html I'm 80yo can't do it myself anymore, have 35yrs experience to share with the right person, have made a very good living/lifestyle. You own and operate, I'll consult so you don't make mistakes. It's a great business with almost no overhead. Example: Buy a Boat 17ft to 30ft on Trailer for $1k put $500. into upgrade Total Cost $1500. sell for $5k not a wish ticket but real profit of $3,500. Call me to discuss details or email Because nothing says make money flipping boats like hiring a paid consultant.
  8. jgbrown

    Sailing around the world in a San Juan 24

    Someone pay for the food and I'll go and take the duck along, not sure I have Rimas's flair or drifting navigation abilities though...
  9. jgbrown

    Tattoo 26- WTF???

    Don't forget people who have had to fix the fucking things. Those people hate them too. I remeber the hardest part about glassing one that bumped a dock was not cutting through the hull during the grind for a bevel We literally ended up sanding it to try and get a decent bond width. Never seen a boat with less glass than a shower stall and made of nothing but badly wet out chopped strand. They are expensive for how well they aren't built. A half rotten ferrocement boat is cheaper and stronger and doubtful it sails worse.
  10. jgbrown

    Sailing around the world in a San Juan 24

    Where the boats are.
  11. jgbrown

    Fuel polishing in Van Isle

    That reminds me of a guy with a volvo motor that stopped working... Just needed a tune up, he knew it would be cheap. Except it turned out he put water in the diesel tank. Then he sucked most of it out and threw in some additives to get it finished. The racor stopped it, so he popped the emergency bypass holes. The the engine mounted filter stopped it so he punched holes in that with a screw driver. Then the engine started running rough so he ran the fuck out of it at high rpm since it wouldn't idle. Finally the injectors did stop him. He was outraged and shocked at the bill and how the engine could have been so poorly designed... What's your preferred additive? I use Howes in pretty much everything. No real science behind why, it was what I learned to use for engine service from an old diesel mechanic and never thought to change it or look into different additives for now. The reasons he gave were it doesn't do anything to move the water along, has good lubricity, it's cheap and it smells good plus the bottles are easy to pour. When changing a fuel filter fill the housing with neat howes, then pump it back to the tank when priming the system. Saves a lot of mess, makes the job faster and painless.
  12. jgbrown

    Sailing around the world in a San Juan 24

    Any of them for sale cheap? Could make it into a race, see who drifts to Hawaii first.
  13. jgbrown

    Mo Bettah Too

    Nicely done. What's your chemical of choice for corrosion removal? Did you clear it, and if so with what? I do not like those T-clamps on anything except exhaust, have removed many that failed at the spot welds with no signs of other problems until someone grabs them. I've always done brass brush+CLR or muriatic. Really like Nyalic to clear it for fancy, or the 7$ cans of quick drying Moeller engine clear lacquer for fast and cheap. I have rubbermaid bins I'll probably throw out when I retire of these sorts of components where someone didn't want them that I'll get around to someday. What will I do with a 2000$ centrifugal DC water pump that needed 1/0 battery cable to run and needs a few orings replaced? No idea, but who could throw it out. For real, a guy was running it for his shitter intake pump and couldn't figure out why flushing the toilet caused so many electrical issues but left it until it started spraying water He refused to keep it even when I told him what it was worth.
  14. jgbrown

    Mo Bettah Too

    I like a pale grey. Very pale though. In gelcoat, 1:10-15 grey/white seems Ok, as long it's all the vertical surfaces or all the horizontal ones not both.(hull sides or cabin top, that sort of thing).
  15. jgbrown

    Pretty floor options?

    Problem isn't the dead tree bit, it's the not having any glass on the tension side. Get a scrap bit of T&H ply 1/4". Glass the back side with a mat/roving to start. Throw whatever scrap offcuts of leftover glass you have lying around your scrap bin on at random, just keeping it halfass level. then finish with one nice mat and squash it with a a scrap bit of melamine board to make it smoothish, Clean up the edge with a razor knife while green, or belt sander later. Yes could be fancier, lighter, more nicely made but fuck it's a hatch over the keel. Done in an hour, last forever, now the dead tree bit is decorative and you got rid of some scrap.