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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Frogwatch

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About Frogwatch

  • Rank
    Anarchist

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  • Location
    N. Fl aqnd bahamas
  • Interests
    Cruising and making new kinds of hardware
  1. Removing epoxy paint over glass layup

    For some reason, epoxy dust from sanding cured epoxy seems to be the worst thing to inflame my own epoxy allergy so I highly recc'd covering up and a face mask.
  2. GPS - Coastal Sailing -

    Tablet with GPS as your plotter, garmin 76 as backup, paper charts and hand compasses (3X) as backups to that. I use an old iPad with Bad Elf GPS and Opn Capn software. I put the ipad in our FrogSuit ipad waterproof floating case (disclaimer, I make the FrogSuits). With all this I still rely more on my hand compass and paper charts than anything else. It is so easy to think, "When that buoy/mark. tower, etc bears X degrees on the compass then I am free to turn and miss that shoal water" and it is easy to sail this way looking at the paper chart every now and then.
  3. Leaky Prop Shaft

    I'd sailed into Marsh Harbor with my caving friends and the only long term slip for my 28' S2 cost about $500/month. We took a slip for the night for me to think it over. There was a trashed out 29' Something occupying a slip and the bartender told us he had a bad leak and only by using shore power could the boat be kept from sinking and nobody could get in behind the engine to see if it was the prop shaft, broken rudder tube or something more serious and the marina desperately wanted to kick the boat out(hadn't paid in months) but would be liable for any pollution if they did and she sank. An hour later while walking the docks, we got invited aboard this boat to see their work at shoring up the bulkhead supporting the mast. The owner mentioned his "problem" with the leak while he sat in the cockpit. My caving friends took one look at the engine installation and took it as a challenge. One guy actually crawled under the engine and another above told me to hand them wrenches and they tightened the packing nut stopping the "leak". Without saying anything to the boat owner we then told the dockmaster about the fix. The next morning they were towed out to the middle of the anchorage. The marina then found us a spot next to shore with very shoal water perfect for my boat and charged us only $250/month.
  4. Strange looking

    Put'er back in the water and stop worrying bout silly epoxy runs.
  5. Tiller pilots

    Diarmuid, good ideas. Where near Laramie do you sail?
  6. Hybrid engine

    I was looking at a boat last week with an electric engine, it has 4 batteries and can cruise at 3.5 kts for 10 hours. Cruising time drops rapidly with higher speed. This is on a 32' boat. He has about 250 watts of solar panel. What is attractive is the lack of transmission and the apparent simplicity. The small electric motor is about 1/4 the size of the previous Atomic 4. Still, not good enough for real cruising cuz those of us who do cruise know we spend a lot of time under power. I want those 6.5 kts to cross the Gulf Stream. So, why not use a tiny diesel like a Yanmar 1gm as a generator to charge the batteries.
  7. Solvent for cured epoxy

    MEK wont touch cured epoxy. That Jabsco stuff barely does, I might try it heated under a fume hood. I burn it off with a torch
  8. docklines, how to get clean ( safely )

    I used to do a lot of vertical caving and we were going to do a trip to the deepest pit in the world in Mexico so we bought a continuous piece of 1500' 11mm PMI rope. New rope has a waxy coating and this can lead to uncontrolled rappels on long drops so we had to wash it. We found a laundromat open late at night and stuffed hundreds of feet into several machines side by side defeating the mechanism that shuts them off if the lid is ajar and washed it. We got some very odd looks from people. Then the rope went into a single large dryer, it was too much for the machine but we did it anyway. Didnt want it completely dry but mostly. Caving suppliers now sell "rope washers" you thread the rope through and it directs water on the rope from all sides. One can add cleaners to an external reservoir.
  9. Solvent for cured epoxy

    Sam Crocker: Your post may have revived my boat building obsession. In addition to the epoxy solvent, that link had some Bisphenol free epoxy. I've developed a severe allergy to Bisphenol from boatbuilding so this is a good find. Thanks
  10. rope ends and terminations

    JerryJ: I thought of that too but I never seem to have the right size heat shrink. Marine supply stores might want to sell heat shrink just for this in the right sizes.
  11. G10/epoxy/electroless nickel winches

    The CNC was used to machine gun grips from G10. G10 eats tooling. I see a way to do it without the need for much CNC at all. The knurling would be in the outer thin layer of thickened epoxy before it is covered with the Electroless nickel. DDW, .065 is close enough to half of .1 to be considerably lighter. I've got cylinders of G10 and I dont think the stiffness is an issue. I'm not sure how bearing races are put into the aluminum winches, pressed in? However, the bearing races could be formed directly in the G10, covered with epoxy for smoothness and then covered with thick hard electroless nickel. Some electroless nickel actually incorporates hex-BN as a lubricant. So, what would be a good small winch to try this with? Something where weight is an issue but potential volume is reasonable.
  12. G10/epoxy/electroless nickel winches

    G10 doesnt like UV and am not too sure about its wear properties, hence the electroless nickel.
  13. G10/epoxy/electroless nickel winches

    G10 comes in cylinders. Use a knurling tool on the lathe or do it on the CNC. Actually, it'd be better to make it from a hollow tube of G10 fixed at each to a larger round piece with a taper.
  14. Solvent for cured epoxy

    Epoxy is forever. I've tried everything even methylene chloride. Heat MAY soften it but in my experience it just starts to burn before softening. Dremel does make some tiny diamond wheels that might work.
  15. Wheel grip.... who uses what...?

    Hmmmm, I've got lots of scraps of neoprene in various bright colors, punch holes for lacing and sell em as winch handle covers.