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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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  1. First, learn the basics: I wouldn't try to memorize the rules. The rule book is 187 pages long, and no one knows them by heart. Instead, take an incremental approach. First, read the "Fundamental Rules" in Part 1 (2 1/2 pp), which set forth everyone's basic responsibilities. Then commit the following to memory: Don't hit the other boat (even if you have the right of way), and if another boat is going to hit you, try to avoid contact, Port tack stays clear of starboard tack, Windward stays clear of leeward, Behind stays clear of ahead, when on the same tack, When tacking, stay clear of other boats; When you acquire the right of way or change course, give the other boat room to keep clear, and At a mark or obstruction, the outside boat gives room to the inside boat to pass the mark or obstruction (and on a beat to windward, room for the inside boat to tack when necessary), There are plenty of exceptions and complications, but these are the basic rules of Part 2 that apply "when boats meet." Reading the Definitions will help you understand them better. There are plenty of books that explain how the rules interact, and when exceptions apply. Dave Perry's book is one of the best. But if you follow these rules, you should be able to get around the race course without getting in too much trouble. Look at "Race Signals," and get a sticker from USSA explaining what the signals mean. Put it somewhere on your boat so you can see it when you are racing. http://store.ussailing.org/browse.cfm/signal-flag-sticker-17-20/4,885.html Then read the rules of Part 3 about running races, and Part 4, "other requirements when racing." Eventually, you should also understand Part 5, which governs protests, but that is not usually too important for beginners. Good luck.
  2. This is silly. Different boats have different cultures about who pays for what, who brings what, and who does what. If you want to have all pro crew, you will need to step up, but if your crew is comprised of amateur sailors with jobs, and they understand ahead of time that they will need to make a contribution to the effort, that is a different matter. That might mean that you won't be able to sail with your regular crew. Delivering a boat this size on its own bottom is a challenge, and will require big chunks of time and delivery sails if you do not have them, keeping in mind that weather conditions in the area between the Delaware Capes and BI can be severe and a J/88 is not an offshore boat. The biggest costs will be hauling and launching the boat, and crew food and lodging. I don't know if there is a yacht club in the vicinity that has a hoist large enough to launch the boat. If there isn't, you will need to pay a boatyard to haul and launch the boat. From Mystic, it isn't far to BI. It should be possible to charter a boat large enough for the crew to sleep aboard with a galley where you can prepare breakfast and dinner. One big Costco trip to provision. If everyone throws in a couple of hundred dollars, you should be close to meeting the expenses for food & drinks. Make sure everyone understands that this will be a KOA trip, and not a Le Meridian resort vacation. Make a schedule for cooking and clean-up. Keep your expectations reasonable. Have fun. Delivering a boat this size on its own bottom is a challenge, and will require big chunks of time and delivery sails if you do not have them.
  3. Problem with cheap gear is that you are going to get wet when it gives out, and the timing may not be a good fit to the manufacturer's sale cycle. I have been using Gill OS gear the past fourteen years (3 Transpacs, 10-12 Mexican races, etc). Its bulky, very comfortable, and it has been great, but most of my sailing is in SoCal these days, the conditions are not (usually) very demanding, and its in the closet most of the time. For shorter races, I have a set of HL Breeze gear, very light-weight & comfortable, but not very waterproof. That said, I don't think cheap gear that does not function very well is worth it. You want to be able to work quickly and efficiently, and need FW gear that will make this easier. Just keep your eye on the sale pages and try not to be too picky about colors.
  4. Anyone know where I can get a new watchband for my Ronstan starting timer? The one with the black elastic strap about 1 1/8" wide with a "gripper" buckle. I managed to break the plastic buckle on an offshore race a few years ago, and haven't been able to find a replacement for the buckle or the strap. No answer from Ronstan when I sent them a message, either. Help!
  5. I used a refurb TB to navigate Transpac about ten years ago. I think it was a TB-19 with back-lit rubber keyboard and touch-screen, convertible to tablet, but don't recall the exact model. It worked great, running Expedition and received gribs flawlessly via Satphone and Sailmail email utility. Survived drips onto keyboard from open port without missing a beat. I used a Lenz charger connected to 12v via a cigarette lighter plug for charging. I wasn't running any other software, so you should depend on others for comments on compatibility issues. Also using one to run Expo on another boat I am sailing on, which seems to work great, but can be glitchy at start-up if the GPS and instrument date links are connected when we start Expo. Overall, my experience with these toughened laptops has been excellent.
  6. Give Svendsen's a shot. These units are repairable, and it's probably something they've seen before.
  7. Yes. In my book, it also counts as a necessary task. See rule 49.2. I don't think you "leave the vessel" when you dive over the side to remove something snagged on the keel or rudder.
  8. This is a great sextant, has good optics, and is much lighter than the brass/ bronze C. Plaths and other German, British and American sextants sold on ebay and elsewhere. The frame is aluminum, so you need to clean it to remove salt spray, especially from the machined area where the screw moves on the arc. If it has a built-in light, you should also be certain to remove the batteries when you store the sextant. I like the Mary Blewitt book, but Bowditch has a comprehensive section on sextant use and adjustments, and is available online: http://www.1yachtua.com/nauticalcharts/downloads/Practical_navigator.pdf In order to "reduce" your sights, you will need a Nautical Almanac and Sight Reduction Tables. I used H.O. 249 when I was navigating prior to the advent of GPS. Using the sextant is a laudable skill, but GPS is a lot easier, especially when you are tired.
  9. You could file an RfR under rule 76.1 next time they reject your entry: "The organizing authority or the race committee may reject or cancel the entry of a boat or exclude a competitor, subject to rule 76.3, provided it does so before the start of the first race and states the reason for doing so. On request the boat shall promptly be given the reason in writing. The boat may request redress if she considers that the rejection or exclusion is improper." A club is clearly within its rights excluding a competitor from its premises for misconduct. However, usually the appropriate remedy for serious ("gross") breaches of sportsmanship or manners is a report under rule 69, which will result in a hearing and determination by an impartial committee whether or not a breach occurred and the appropriate punishment. Of course, evidence is required in order to justify any punishment under the RRS, and Ed can present a defense in a R69 hearing, but punishment can also be meted out for "bringing the sport into disrepute," which is a pretty amorphous standard on a good day. The USOC Competitor Bill of Rights also applies. I note that the trophy presentation was held in a public place, a hotel located in Ensenada, and not at SWYC's Point Loma facility. Many ways to skin this cat, but most will involve some sort of acknowledgement/ apology, which may be tempered to meet the actual circumstances, depending on whether or not Ed actually wants to participate in their events.
  10. Orange Coast College in Newport Beach CA.
  11. As you might know, under the new (2017-20) rules, there was a potential for a protest and DSQ of the offending boat. And if you want to push matters with the offending boat, you could (and probably should) have filed a protest, assuming that you were getting ready to start a race at the time of the collision. Google "Juno SRL v. Endeavour" for more details on the application to the RRS in situations of this kind. And "Balder" is correct about your obligation to maintain a lookout when you are underway, which also applies when you are racing. That said, I am glad to learn that the damage was relatively minimal, and you are in the process of moving toward an amicable resolution. This is a classic case where the old-fashioned hail of "starboard" would have served you well, even if it is not required by the RRS; and deference to the fact that the other boat was racing (and you were not) could have avoided an embarrassing and expensive occurrence.
  12. In times past, there was a big pre-race raft-up at Bahia Corinthian YC. You might call them to confirm whether or not this is still the case. This is a perfect race for a slow and small boat, but be prepared with food, warm clothing and required safety gear. Trip back can be tough if the usual strong northwesterly is blowing. Best to leave at night so you arrive in SD in mid to late afternoon. Finish is usually near race HQ at Marina Coral, a couple of miles north-west of Ensenada. Big boats often "turn-and-burn" back instead of going into Ensenada.
  13. AP genoa is the call. You will use it in most of the wind range up-wind and reaching, and wing-and-wing downwind, too. Figure out how to use your tallboy in the super-light stuff, when there isn't enough wind to fill the genny. If it has a low clew, you might want to have your sail maker raise it a bit, so it's easier to set the lead. If you decide to abandon your s-kite, the next sail would be an A-1 kite for reaching and running in light air.
  14. On the question of the timing of the hailing boat's tack when the hailed boat tacks, rule 20.2(d) states, "When a hailed boat responds, the hailing boat shall tack as soon as possible." In this situation, the rule of thumb applied by judges is that the hailing boat must begin tacking before the hailed boat is on a close-hauled course, or as soon there after as possible to avoid contact with the hailed boat. The hailing boat does not have the right to continue far enough to have clear air on the new tack.
  15. Unless you are planning to do a Transatlantic race, I would avoid a one-piece suit, esp. for GL sailing b/c you need more versatility to sail where it can be cold and wet one week, and warm and rainy the next. When I was a bow man, I wore a smock most of the time, usually over chest-highs. I got a dry top to wear in the really nasty stuff, but it is never used now that I have migrated aft, and most of my sailing is in SoCal, where it seldom blows hard and only rains a couple of times a year. I also wore a paddling top in my Etchells days; good protection, and the Velcro neck band made it possible to get some ventilation on the downwind legs. Get a good hat. Musto makes a waterproof bill cap that will make things more comfortable on the really wet distance races, if you don't want to wear a rain hat. I also had a pair of gaiters which went over my boots to keep water from coming up my pant legs. Some boots have this built in. Good on the bow, not necessary for the rest of the boat. To some extent, you can revive old FW gear with RevivEx and a brief tumble in a hot drier.