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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

equivocator

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  1. It's not forbidden, so I think its OK, as long as they inform the RC that they flew a kite and should be scored accordingly. If the RC doesn't like it, thy can amend the SIs.
  2. I think that because the SIs provide that the virtual obstruction and defining marks are required to be left to port, all of the buoys are marks of the course: "Mark An object the sailing instructions require a boat to leave on a specified side, and a race committee vessel surrounded by navigable water from which the starting or finishing line extends." (from Definitions.) Because the SIs require all of the mid-channel buoys to be left to port, rule 18 applies to all of the buoys. In the drawing, under 19.1, 19 would not apply to the first mark: 19.1 When Rule 19 Applies (a) Rule 19 applies between two boats at an obstruction except (a) when the obstruction is a mark the boats are required to leave on the same side, Yellow would not have any right to mark-room from Green at the first mark because she did not have an overlap when Green reached the zone
  3. Properly-sized rigging will stretch, but it should not elongate after it initially sets into position on the rig. Theoretically, the rods for both types of rigging should weigh the roughly the same, since both types of rigging must resist the same total loading, but the hardware on the discontinuous will be higher off the deck.It seems to me that the continuous is likely to be trickier to tune, since the diagonals will stretch throughout their length, and not just between the cup and the spreader tip, as would be the case with discontinuous rigging. FWIW, boats over around 48' usually have discontinuous rigging, and that may be the reason. For most mid to large racing boats, the rig-load also includes jack pressure applied by a set of hydraulic rams, and sustained by aluminum plates under the butt of the mast,
  4. Best boat shoes ever were "canvas" style Topsiders with nylon uppers and insoles, they'd dry during your offwatch, didn't stink, and were light-weight. Of course, Sperry stopped making them back in the eighties when they decided to go for the fashion market. Too bad. More recent models based on running shoes with sponge backing on the uppers are a big problem when they get wet. To dry your shoes overnight, stuff them with newspaper.
  5. Solution for leaky boots is a plastic bag over your socks, with rubber bands around your ankle and lower leg. Think grocery store produce section or the bag your newspaper comes in on a rainy day, Works like a charm. I have a pair of poly-coated nylon gaitors from Gill, purchased from their website about a decade ago. They have heavy elastic around the bottom, with a "tie-down" that goes under the sole of your boot, and a shock-cord drawstring around the top. Never used them "in anger," but I think they'd do the job. Haven't seen them lately, though.
  6. Why not wrap the bronze shaft w/ fiberglass cloth & resin to fill the gap between the bronze rod and the new rudder stock. Wrap the layup with saran wrap to make the thing smooth, and sand it down to the fit you like after the resin kicks. If you want to glue the bronze rod to the inside of the SS stock, use marine tex or a similar epoxy, but don't rely on it to sustain the steering torque. As has been suggested, drill a hole through the rudder stack after it has been assembled, and use a pin to transmit the turning force. Has anyone suggested filling the triangular gap between the top of the rudder and the hull? That would be likely to increase steering efficiency.
  7. The point is, there is no evidence whether or not the damage was "serious." Based on the description, it could be a hole or a chip in the gelcoat.
  8. When you Re-read the preamble to Part 3, you will be reminded that the rules of Part 3, including rule 18, do not apply at the start, when the starting mark is surrounded by navigable water. So Starboard has no right to room at the starting mark, and broke rules 11 and 13 when they jibed and forced Port to bear away to avoid contact.u Better approach would have been to continue on starboard tack, force all of the port tackers to bear away, and then jibe when there is room for her to do so.
  9. No, your obligation was to take a penalty, which could be turns under rule 44, or an alternative penalty under Appendix T, if available. However, you can't take an alternative penalty if there was serious damage or injury. Serious damage includes damage that effects the ability of the other boat to compete in the regatta.
  10. Biggest issue in SD is that the RC support boats aren't designed or equipped for big breeze and neither are most of the RC volunteers. Also we don't have any offshore islands to break up the swells so we can have a pretty nasty sea state.
  11. What Brass said. You want to be sure to keep track how any leeward boats established their overlap so you will know if they are subject to rule 17. The proper response to a hail to "come up" from a boat that is clear astern is "No overlap." You might also want to make the same hail if a boat to leeward is going to establish an overlap, so that everyone can remember how the overlap was established.
  12. First, learn the basics: I wouldn't try to memorize the rules. The rule book is 187 pages long, and no one knows them by heart. Instead, take an incremental approach. First, read the "Fundamental Rules" in Part 1 (2 1/2 pp), which set forth everyone's basic responsibilities. Then commit the following to memory: Don't hit the other boat (even if you have the right of way), and if another boat is going to hit you, try to avoid contact, Port tack stays clear of starboard tack, Windward stays clear of leeward, Behind stays clear of ahead, when on the same tack, When tacking, stay clear of other boats; When you acquire the right of way or change course, give the other boat room to keep clear, and At a mark or obstruction, the outside boat gives room to the inside boat to pass the mark or obstruction (and on a beat to windward, room for the inside boat to tack when necessary), There are plenty of exceptions and complications, but these are the basic rules of Part 2 that apply "when boats meet." Reading the Definitions will help you understand them better. There are plenty of books that explain how the rules interact, and when exceptions apply. Dave Perry's book is one of the best. But if you follow these rules, you should be able to get around the race course without getting in too much trouble. Look at "Race Signals," and get a sticker from USSA explaining what the signals mean. Put it somewhere on your boat so you can see it when you are racing. http://store.ussailing.org/browse.cfm/signal-flag-sticker-17-20/4,885.html Then read the rules of Part 3 about running races, and Part 4, "other requirements when racing." Eventually, you should also understand Part 5, which governs protests, but that is not usually too important for beginners. Good luck.
  13. This is silly. Different boats have different cultures about who pays for what, who brings what, and who does what. If you want to have all pro crew, you will need to step up, but if your crew is comprised of amateur sailors with jobs, and they understand ahead of time that they will need to make a contribution to the effort, that is a different matter. That might mean that you won't be able to sail with your regular crew. Delivering a boat this size on its own bottom is a challenge, and will require big chunks of time and delivery sails if you do not have them, keeping in mind that weather conditions in the area between the Delaware Capes and BI can be severe and a J/88 is not an offshore boat. The biggest costs will be hauling and launching the boat, and crew food and lodging. I don't know if there is a yacht club in the vicinity that has a hoist large enough to launch the boat. If there isn't, you will need to pay a boatyard to haul and launch the boat. From Mystic, it isn't far to BI. It should be possible to charter a boat large enough for the crew to sleep aboard with a galley where you can prepare breakfast and dinner. One big Costco trip to provision. If everyone throws in a couple of hundred dollars, you should be close to meeting the expenses for food & drinks. Make sure everyone understands that this will be a KOA trip, and not a Le Meridian resort vacation. Make a schedule for cooking and clean-up. Keep your expectations reasonable. Have fun. Delivering a boat this size on its own bottom is a challenge, and will require big chunks of time and delivery sails if you do not have them.
  14. Problem with cheap gear is that you are going to get wet when it gives out, and the timing may not be a good fit to the manufacturer's sale cycle. I have been using Gill OS gear the past fourteen years (3 Transpacs, 10-12 Mexican races, etc). Its bulky, very comfortable, and it has been great, but most of my sailing is in SoCal these days, the conditions are not (usually) very demanding, and its in the closet most of the time. For shorter races, I have a set of HL Breeze gear, very light-weight & comfortable, but not very waterproof. That said, I don't think cheap gear that does not function very well is worth it. You want to be able to work quickly and efficiently, and need FW gear that will make this easier. Just keep your eye on the sale pages and try not to be too picky about colors.
  15. Anyone know where I can get a new watchband for my Ronstan starting timer? The one with the black elastic strap about 1 1/8" wide with a "gripper" buckle. I managed to break the plastic buckle on an offshore race a few years ago, and haven't been able to find a replacement for the buckle or the strap. No answer from Ronstan when I sent them a message, either. Help!