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Everything posted by Nodrog

  1. Nodrog

    Prada Cup

    To be fair 14knts on the top of rangi light, am sure this over reads in a NE as the wind flows around the volcano, and the 14.9 in takapuna is at the top of the tallest building for miles. I'd guess at 12 at sea / mast level, but we'll find out v soon.
  2. Nodrog

    Emirates Team New Zealand.

    Was watching them off taka beach about 6pm Weds, light NE-er (<7k at Rangi light, <10k top of the Takapuna tower block), so they were sailing in I would think about 5knots. Tacking and gybing at will. I did a double take, thinking I'm sure I didn't watch anyone change sides then, but the next tack they did, but seems something well worth practicing.
  3. Nodrog

    A knot puzzle for the day

    You may also want to get used to cutting the line and inserting lengths, as the unloaded dyneema will likely start to shrink over the next few years. Interesting puzzle though...
  4. Nodrog

    Emirates Team New Zealand.

    what I was thinking
  5. Nodrog

    Emirates Team New Zealand.

    Interesting to me that they're back to a tow test on first day with new foils, if that is the case?. They did this with boat1, but wasn't boat 2 just launched and sailed almost same day? Its a fresh day in Akld, but plenty sailable I would have thought.
  6. Nodrog

    Practice Races This Week

    The buoys are heading to course D or E
  7. Nodrog

    Practice Races This Week

    Picked up on that too. Saw a close up vid of ETNZ vs Prada start with prada starting to leeward and bow forward, looked like Prada had the best of them and squeezed ETNZ out in first couple minutes, ETNZ had a bit of a wobble on the foils. interesting JS tactic, start to leeward and sail ridiculously high but still just foiling, make it impossible for opponent to live there, the ultimate lee bow. But then Steele watched the whole beat, and apparently ETNZ did manage to survive the lee bow, advanced and when they tacked on the boundary was directly to windward, game over for prada. Its going to be a fascinating summer.
  8. Nodrog

    Luna Rossa Challenge. AC 36

    nice! the spill I saw was prob further out, they would have been by northern leading, not certain on the timing, was sailing too...
  9. Nodrog

    Luna Rossa Challenge. AC 36

    Cool shot !! what time was this taken @weta27? Was off the north shore around 5pm and saw them pull a pretty significant wheely and crash down in the distance, stopped pretty quickly! Dropped the jib afterwards and towed home.
  10. Nodrog

    Finishing the ends of sandwich panel

    Another alternative is to edge the foam before you laminate it. The pic is a centreboarder's foredeck before laminating, the ply bits are inserts where hardware gets mounted, the yellow cedar is where there will be exposed edges, mast gate and c/board. For a robust hatch cover / washboard i'd get say 50mm x 6mm timber of your choice, run thru thicknesser if you can to same thickness as the foam, something tough, and glue this , edge on, to the foam, just 'tacked', doesn't have to be super well done as all gets consolidated in the laminate. Place it so its centreline is somewhere in line with where the edges will be, bit like a picture frame,, ie you're making the panel oversize, with timber all around, Laminate it up, vacuum bag best, or your preferred work around if you can't, then trim down to size. Can round / bevel / sand to your heart's content afterwards.
  11. Nodrog

    Emirates Team New Zealand.

    I would put money on BB's new job description being 'Fuck with Dalts as much as possible. Leave no stone unturned in attempts to distract him, lose any influence he has with the media, all manner of mind games should be used. If ETNZ lose public support, all the better.' BB and Dalts I doubt are mates, and BB's a pro at planning this stuff, Dalts is 'ready, fire, aim'. 15-love to BB, ( he just served an ace) and there's plenty more to come.
  12. Ended up using the cloth, one of the rings won't see much load, but the other will be the towing eye so wanted to be sure of some strength. I'm pretty sure that if it comes off now it will take half the foredeck with it. I made a jig of sorts to hold everything flat, couple of recesses to fit the ferrules, and vacuumed it all down. Pleased the level of prep work pretty much eliminated sanding afterwards per El Boracho! The piece will be an insert for foam deck. side with fairing compound will be topside, should come out fairly flush when its done. Jig: top under
  13. Am taking some thin control lines through a bulkhead, and deck, couple with 180Deg change in direction, couple with negligible change. No need to be watertight, although I want to avoid a hole that is too much bigger than required. Thin dyneema lines, 2-4mm, deck and bulkhead are 4mm ply which will be sheathed with 200gsm glass. I'm planning on doing it with ronstan low friction rings / ferrules, like this but need to find a neat way of flush mounting these in the deck. So far I'm planning on cutting a disc from 4mm ply, already sheathed with 200g glass, which fits nicely in the outer groove of the ring. Cut the disc in half, drill a hole thru the middle and push the 2 halves of the disc together with plenty glue so the ferrule is captive in a larger ply disc. Then I'd flush mount this into the deck by bevelling the outside of the ring to match a hole in the deck, glue it in, and try to neatly glass over the join, perhaps with a backing pad ( a do-nut shape) of more ply behind the join. I think this is acheivable, but sure is looking like a lot of work. Am wondering if perhaps I've missed an easier way of getting a similar outcome? Antal make a mountable ferrule, but only in much larger sizes.
  14. An update on this. Wasn't happy with cutting them in half and inserting one half from each side. Seemed too difficult to get the 2 halves to line up properly, and avoid having a razor sharp edge in the middle, sort of defeating the point of the whole exercise. I evolved the "U" shaped inserts slightly into what I can only describe in a series of pics. This is for 2 ferrules close together, the 6mm ply will be cut to size afterwards, and then used as an insert in foam core deck. The pics oviously just a dry fit, cameras and epoxy I don't believe mix well.
  15. Nodrog

    Emirates Team New Zealand.

    I'm probs late the party on this, as mentioned just above, the ETNZ boat now seems to be able to sail at will with the leeward part of the foil breaking the surface. I thought this ( and perhaps crossing a wake) was previously the point of doom, and triggered the wipe outs. Either way, they're looking mighty impressive.
  16. Nodrog

    What Rope for Spin Pole Bridle?

    just bury the bungy inside the dyneema and stitch it in, then dyneema just 'shrinks' when no load.
  17. Nodrog

    Solid Shock Cord

    I get the shock cord they use for spear guns, solid rubber, 8-12mm, small hole in the middle, good dive shops will have rolls of it to make up strops in custom lenghts. Doesn't last long in the sun though.
  18. Nodrog

    Is Te Aihe done sailing?

    Closer, I think....? Isn't there some strange middle ground between 'tee' and 'tay' that only newsreaders seem to be able to get to?
  19. I'd say the only way you're going to fix that gap properly is to cut out the entire c/b case and rebuild it with a proper lining, ie major surgery, espeically in a 505 as you'd be also cutting into all the thwarts, main bulkhead, and structure of the boat. The strength of the hull and cb case joint is in the fillet on the inside, in the cockpit floor. Nothing you do in that pic is going to improve the strength of anything, or the watertightness into the cockpit when its under load whilst sailing. Boats i've done have had ply sides to c/b cases, which have been glass sheathed, faired, and painted with durepox. . Typically no need to go light, its where you want weight when trying to get a boat built up to min weight. I've several times been talked out of trying to sheath the inside of the case with something slippier, tougher, etc, such as some kind of plastic. That seems to have been done here, and its coming away from the case, almost inevitably... If you start digging in their with a hacksaw blade, knife, or scraper you're just going to further loosen that plastic lining. Assuming the boat is a bit of beater, smash around in and have some fun, Squirt some resin / sika / 5200 whatever into that gap and it will hide the problem for anything from 6 weeks to 6+ years I'd guess, but won't fix it, you won't be able to rebond the entire lining of the case to the ply whatever you squirt in. However, if the boats sailing, the ply's not getting rotten yet, and not leaking into the cockpit, squirt some goo in and go sailing. Don't squirt in too much, the slot will end up thinner and the board too stiff. Make up a packer the same thickness of the board, maybe v slightyl thicker, cover it in parcel tape and some mold release wax if you have any, and use that to push the sides out when you squirt in goop, leave it in until cured but make sure you've got something good to grip onto to get it out. It looks damp, its going to be v difficult to clean the surfaces inside to get any resin to stick so 5200 is likely the ultimate short cut material. If you think you can get it clean, dry, andwell abraded then use epoxy resin, little bit of glue powder, and use the packer to push the sides out properly.
  20. Nodrog

    PVC below the waterline

    If you have a source of GRP tube then fabricating something maybe an option there?
  21. Thank you @martin 'hoffthats much simpler. I've tried cutting the rings in half as you mention before, but my god they are tough, don't know what sort of alum they are but it was hard work with a hacksaw. I couldn't find a dremel disc deep enough to get through the ring, but will try again. The VMG rings sure are nice, but too large for this job ( and also on the wrong side of the world...) Epoxy work and sanding, I hear you !! I think we all find the time spent sanding increases the motivation to improve epoxy workmanship with laziness being the common factor!
  22. Yup, know those, but not really what im looking for, not flush, Can't turn 180, or anything like that, and not really smooth/low friction. The antal one is the combo of the 2 designs, but only in larger sizes.
  23. Nodrog

    PVC below the waterline

    If you're not comfortable with plastic it sounds like fabricating the right shaped Tee, or Y, out of s/s tube is going to be cheaper / lighter / better?