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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Steve Clark

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About Steve Clark

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    Where the water is thin.
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    Human folly.

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  1. On mizzens from up the thread... I'm a long time ketch and yawl type, having grown up on a Block Island 40 and inherited Red Herring. Not to mention icons like Stormvogel, Ticonderoga, and Windward Passage! Who wouldn't want a ketch! Mizzens are really useful if you know how to use them. They are not very useful on boats that race windward leeward courses, but on races with reaches, they are pretty good, and for cruising and sailing off angles not featured on race courses. I find them really useful for all sorts of boat handling. You don't learn this stuff in sloop school. For starters, they will keep you head the wind. Sheet the sucker in hard and pin the helm on center and Herring will back straight down wind while I get the main up or down. If we are sailing off the mooring, I can determine which tack we will fall off on by backing the mizzen the other way. All cool sailor stuff. Once you are reaching, that ability to hang up extra laundry is amusing and the extra low area can push you along and add onto the miles with very little extra stress. I can get bored, so having lots to fiddle and fuss with is part of the fun. These sails are relatively small and light and managing them is not a a chore. The biggest advantage is maintaining weather helm when really shortened down. As sails are reefed their center of pressures move forward. The same is true of smaller jibs. So when it really gets ugly, you find that your boat wants to fall off to leeward in the gusts as you ease the main. This is deadly bad. You can sink if you are knocked over on you beam ends. You can solve this by having a mizzen. On Red Herring we never shorten the mizzen, I have a cascading mizzen sheet with what used to be called a vernier. It is double ended. There is a two to one for coarse trimming, which has a three to one on the opposite tail. This gives me a six to one sheet that I can hand hold if I want. So I can play the mizzen sheet and steer at the same time. Up wind in a breeze, the mizzen is flattened as much as I can with down haul and vang. If I think I have too much helm or need to bear away, I can quickly ease the mizzen without it getting full and twisted. If we are dealing with big puffs and have to ease the main, I can trim the mizzen to keep her head up. And that is before you consider going "Jib and Jigger" which may be one of the most salutary sailing arrangements for short handed sailing in heavy air. As the name implies, you set a slightly bigger jib than you might otherwise, and the mizzen. Leave the mainsail on the boom. A very nice low pressure sail can be had when others might have a long wet day. It isn't unprecedented to leave the mizzen up when at anchor..... I have kept one set for a week at a time, so it just sort of gets the job done. The biggest thing wrong with yawl and ketch rigs, other than the fact that mizzens are pretty useless for sausage racing, is the cost on the second mast and the rigging and sails that go with it. I recall Olin Stephens saying that Dorade was happiest with something like 7 Degees of rudder. That makes sense to me as it makes her keel and underbody into an assymetrical (very low aspect ratio) wing. This is true of any boat with an attached rudder and one reason why some weather helm is faster than no weather helm. SHC
  2. Further rumor is that Luca is considering rescheduling The Foil Week into March. Irma kind of put a damper on fall and early winter activities in South Florida. SHC
  3. There are a few spots where these boats can leak. We changed a few details and tuned up our bonding procedure to solve the problems. We have instituted the old Vanguard leak test in our QC checks. We cribbed directly from the Europe Dinghy Class, not just because we had the kit left over from when we built Eropes, but because it turned out to be a very good way to determine if a boa leaks. Bubble tests are good at finding leaks, but you can miss a leak, so you need a more global test which establishes if the boat leaks or doesn't leak. We pressurize the hull enough to achieve 130mm differential on a water gauge. That differential shall not fall below 50mm in 30 seconds. We are doing this on all new boats so we can tune up the assembly and assure the customers that the boats are watertight. The suspects are usually the scuppers that drain the little hand hold "kiss offs" on the deck, or a small void in the bond of the watertight bulkhead just behind the mast. Both are pretty easily fixed. SHC
  4. Seats extend the same distance from centerline, so should be cross platform compatible.The only caveat is that because the new boats can be narrower than the Nethercotts, the actual extension out the side of the boat is greater. 750mm beam compared to 1014mm beam. So the seat is cantilevered about 130 mm more on minimum beam boat than on a Nethercott. The measurement of all of the bits is pretty much identical between the one design and the development rules, rig height, centerboard depth, sail area, seat extension etc were kept consistent with their historical precedents. I rounded some things off to more convenient numbers, but the intent was that any boat that ever measured in would continue to measure in. SHC
  5. And from the old man. We will sell the DXF files and a license to build boats at US$ 100. Because someone will inevitably want to build a carbon fiber one, I will sort out a set of external frames that the panels can be fit into without using the internal structure as the building structure. Should be pretty easy. The elders are thinking nice thoughts about a little more stability. Remember that the olddevelopment rule allowed boats as skinny as the new rules (750mm) and the boat that emerged as "best compromise" was 1014 mm wide. So I had been meditating about what I can do in a beamier hull form. It will probably give something away upwind and in a short chop, but There isn't much slower than a capsized IC. I have an idea, based on Lou Whitman's Phoenix that was probably faster than the Nethercot in 1970, but never got much of a chance after the ICF made the Nethercot the only approved shape. Willy is playing a little fast and lose with his Dad's time. We always get excited by the World's and unfortunately, the either energy of the event dissipates or my contributions somehow miss their mark. The result that I spend a bunch of time and money creating something that nobody wants. I am pretty addicted to my own dope but don't have much luck getting others to take a taste. SHC
  6. I know I tried it on half a dozen models when I was a kid and it didn't work as well as putting weight on the high side. Of course where I lived, it blew hard almost all the time, and ithe only reliable way to make one of my sailing models go faster was to put shifting ballast on deck, or in many cases further to windward on outriggers. This was the only way I ever got my free sailing models to plane upwind. Which WAS pretty cool when I got I got it right, about once a year ........ SHC
  7. Simple nationality rule: crew must speak the native language of the competitors nation during competition. Artemis speaks Swedish, SoftBank-Japanese, etc. At the very least this would give the national teams an inherent relevance to their nations. As I see it, Dalton wants first pick of all the Kiwis without having to bid against those from other nations who might pay more. So it is at once a cost control scheme and a way to ( if you believe that New Zealanders ( like vegans) are just better) to deny the competition access to the best. This is only true if you are addicted to a certain flavor of Kool Aid. Back in the dawn of time, when Hood sailcloth was 1000% better than anything else in the world, this was an absolute advantage that the NYYC surrendered only after the development of film sails and the advantage was worthless. Each team did their own development though. All major components, like winches, spars, and steering gear was all CIC. As a fan of these things, I really liked the creativity and diversity this encouraged. It is easy to imagine that this was good for the marine industries in the various nations, and that the benefits outweighed the costs. I mean if the richest people ina particular nation are going to wank off into the Auld Mugg, isn't it better that they spend the money in their home country in the native sailing businesses? Kind of a service to the home boys. SHC
  8. The deepest the boat can get is 54 inches ( 1370mm or 4'6) This is when you are way aft with the rudder all the way down. The rudder is 6" deeper than the main foil In this attitude your speed will be as close to 0 as it gets. Generally speaking 4' of water is enough unless you are flying, then something like 18" is deep enough if you are good enough. If you stop, make sure you tip over to windward or it can get expensive. SHC
  9. Biggest problem with the 49er singlehanded is righting the boat. The rig is really big when on its side and sometimes a single monkey doesn't enough avoirdupois to stand it up. Can get very boring before it gets very expensive. SHC
  10. US1 was mo less a cut down Windmill just as the Banchee was a cut down FJ. US 1 wasn't a bad boat sailing boat. Of all the Laser clones of the mid 70s, they were in the top 5 or so. None were better than the Laser however. SHC
  11. M. Taunton is correct. Ther was lots going on with Australia II that had nothing to do with hydrodynamic breakthroughs but with optimizing with the 12 meter rule. So much " advancement" is like that, unfortunately. If I recall correctly, the Meter rule essentially trades sail area against length and weight. " Small" boats get big sails, "big" boats get small sails. In light air, the small boat wins, As the wind builds, small boats run out of stability and don't have the righting moment to handle the additional sail area and lose to bigger boats. By messing with the keel profile, Australia II easuered smaller than she actually was. Also by having so much lead down low was abnormally stiff for a "small" 12. So she found a sweet spot that Liberty could not match in spite of being aggressively "moded" for each day. This made possible by having multiple measurement certificates for each combination of sail area and displacement and length. Short of all that, there is some difference between bulbs and wings, although each is "just" a tip detail. The IACC boats all had wingletson their bulbs to clean up and organize the vortices coming off the keel tip. This is a deep an complex rabbit hole. We are still waiting for some of the guys to resurface. SHC
  12. All most all foil designs are constrained, to some extent by Class rules. So the present successful solutions have to be considered within the box they live in. A Class limits horizontal span and bans surface sensing wands. AC boats ban 4x4 configurations , and flaps. C Class limits beam. GC 32 are one design. So to consider what is really possible and what may be a "best" solution you have to look someplace other than racing classes. The problem with that is that there is no testing. Ellway's Vampire is one such out of the box example as is the Seafoiler, where the designers have sought practical answers without the type forming constraints of fair racing. From my perspective, flaps flaps flaps flaps. They are proven to quickly and reliably alter the lift of wings. The loads are small, and can be rapidly actuated. There are some difficulties in construction, but those hydraulics were not cheap either. SHC
  13. How about a national language rule? If you require the teams to speak the language of the nation they represent on the race course? The French were the only team not speaking English. The America's Cup isn't an equal opportunity employer. The Aussies and Kiwis are very territorial and have very sharp elbows and give hiring preference to their mates. Make them learn Japanese if they want Japanese money. SHC
  14. I thought you were looking for advice on how to do it fast. No shit, a hammer is a good weapon for getting tabbed in bulkheads out of the inside of a fiberglass hull. I would not have cut them down as much as you did because it reduces the leverage to wrench the tabbing up. If you can find a "slick" which is a great big chisel about the size and weight of an axe, they also do a good job. These are the weapons shipwrights carry into battle on their backs. Short of that, a masonry chisel or jackhammer bit that you sharpen with a 5" grinder makes short work of it. A sawsall, which a long blade is also a good choice if you have to reciprocate in order to get your craft on. The long blade will slide back and fort along the skin and get you almost all the way there. Or, carry on, you are doing fine. SHC
  15. A 20 oz hammer does a really good job. Seriously, wail away, stuff gets loose and can be peeled off. SHC