Bad Andy

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About Bad Andy

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  • Birthday 06/03/1987

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  1. Bad Andy

    Storm jib vs. Heavy weather jib

    If you want to actually race with the #4 do the same as your other upwind sails with less carbon (50/50 carbon Technora is nice) and a heavy skin/taffeta. The DP triradial cloths with Lightsjin are also good like Carbon Sport. If not 10 or 11oz Dacron triradial to get a bit of shape life out of it
  2. Bad Andy

    Tides Marine Mast Track System

    I've done a few carbon sails in the past year with tides Marine tracks, have had zero issues. The sails are built like any other slugged sails, and the metal is so far away and isolated that it shouldn't be an issue with electrolysis.
  3. Bad Andy

    J/88 top batten hooking on backstay

    The gaff batten should not hit the backstay, its usually the next batten down. Can you post a pic? Sounds like something is wrong with the way the sail or boat is set up. Sounds like the head of the main is higher than it should be.
  4. Bad Andy

    Construction of a Pogo 50

    Correct we generally will do a full carbon sail for higher end inshore racers (for example the sails that won the J111 worlds last year). These sails get custom carbon scrims, and carbon in the luff, leech and foot passes. For sails that get more abuse (genoas, heavy air, offshore, etc.) we generally will run in the 60-80% carbon range, and most of the secondary fiber (generally Technora or Twaron) will be run in the foot or horizontal passes as they have the least amount of loads but take the largest abuse when the sail flogs. For a more cruising oriented sail we will do Spectra or Vectran for the majority of the fibers, but run carbon up the high load areas generally up the leech and a bit in the luff pass. We are pushing more and more carbon into the race sails every year. We are keeping a close eye on the 100% carbon sails to see how they age but have not seen a massive difference in degradation of the fabric, but have seen a really nice boast in longevity of shape. In the next feel years I have a feeling it will become our norm for mainsails and light/medium none overlapping sails for course and coastal racing.
  5. Bad Andy

    Construction of a Pogo 50

    Without getting too deep in the weeds I'll give you a few reasons. The major one is the massive amount of customization we can do within a sail. I tried to calculate the total number of different products we can build out of the plant in Auckalnd and honestly couldn't do it because of the number of different variations we can do (without even getting to DPI). We are building every sail custom to the exact use, performance, and life expectancy that the boat needs to accomplish its goal. For example, a main, AP jib, solent, and Storm jib/staysail for the Pogo 50 will all have slightly different fiber contents (from a 80/20 carbon aramid mix to 100% Vectran), different skins, and mix and matched skins for areas that take more abuse. Our lamination process has always been focused on more pressure, less glue, and a more complete curing process. This has allowed us to make lighter sails that flex better and actually last longer. We use this weight in two ways, one we can straight up make a lighter sail. On some of our sails where weight is important (generally inshore buoy sails, light air sails, etc.) we can be as much as 10-15% lighter on the blank weight. The other way we use it is to load the sail full of fiber and carbon to make it stiffer extremely stiff. One of our Farr 40 J4's was described as a piece of steel with a pennant on it. And again we have had zero delamination on our current technology in the last 6 years. I do not believe that is another sailmaker who can make that claim. And this really helps us bring the price down. On pricing we generally find that we are either 20-30% less or providing a vastly superior sail. In this example the pricing for a spectra cruising sail is being compared to a carbon racing structure with cruising skins. If we went carbon vs carbon its a better sail for a lot less money. So to sum it up we can make a lighter, stiffer sail that will not fall apart or shrink and do so in a price competitive way.
  6. Bad Andy

    Benefits of a solid vang in light air

    If you sail in a light air venue I believe it is worth having. I do not have a number on how much of a difference it is but the mainsail looks a ton better when the boom is not weight its down. I also feel the force pushing against the vang helps stabilize the sails when it is bouncy. If you are worried about weight look at the boom kickers the small one is really light, or leave a few beers on shore when its not windy.
  7. Bad Andy

    Headfoil vs Hanks, thoughts?

    Performance Both are going to perform within such a tight margin that most of us will never notice. I like hanks because I feel they give you a bit more range on your jib shape because you can ease scallops into the sail. Foil sails tend to have a cleaner entry which mentally makes me thing they will have a higher top speed. The difference however will be so small you wil never notice. Ease of Use Hanks are much easier to do sets and drops with. No prefeeder to worry about and the sail stays attached. I like them for short handed boats or boats with limited headsail selection. Foil is much easier to swap out sails, just pop the tack and the halyard and the sail is loose, and you can do inline peels. I like them for boats that you anticipate a need to change headsails quickly.
  8. Bad Andy

    Construction of a Pogo 50

    PM sent, Shark sails matter too!
  9. Bad Andy

    Construction of a Pogo 50

    Happy to help, most of the information out there on sails these days is filtered through marketing departments and they haven't a clue. I go down to NZL once a year (pre covid) to meet with the guys in the loft and the membrane plant. The guys down there know their shit and are happy to share. Fire away with any questions if you have more.
  10. Bad Andy

    Construction of a Pogo 50

    I am the "Evo guy" just a few things about our sails if you have not used them before. We have a membrane plant in Auckland that was built about 6 years ago. In those 6 years we have had zero sails delaminate, yes zero, our warranty department is very bored most of the time. The first suit of sails out of the plant are still sailing in Auckland. Improvements in glue (switching from a heat set to a chemical bond), double vacuum bags, an increase in pressure on the sails and a post curing process have made an extremely tight laminate that just doe not come apart. And to be honest most of the major sailmakers have sorted the delamination process, its mostly a boogey man that a certain sailmaker keeps bringing up to scare people. For mildew and repairs neither have been an issue. The new coatings on our Expedition sails and the tighter weave and lamination have all but eliminated the mildew issue. No water between layers = no mildew. No need for glue patches we make PSA skin for the sails that is easy to apply on the water. For performance a carbon sail will our preform any other material on the market hands down. We went hard down the path of making carbon a solution for all of our sails by making it more flexible. The key is how the carbon is encapsulated in the sail. Most sailmakers create a very rigid fiber by fully encapsulating carbon in glue, we developed a technique that lightly coats the carbon to let it bend. Because of this we run high carbon percentages in all of our sails, 100% in inshore racing sails, and 60-90% in heavy air and offshore sails depending on the use. If our carbon sails do not look better than a spectra sail after a season I'll eat the damn thing. Don't buy a Ferrari and put winter tires on it!
  11. Bad Andy

    Best way to get code zero luff tension?

    You will be able to get plenty of tension on it without a 2:1 with the winch. Yes you can go straight to the sprit, but it will be a pain to do peels. The big advantage to that set up is the drum won't spin freely. If you feel you need a 2:1 set it up at the tack. Less line and it helps keep the furler stable. Also when you're setting up your furling line make sure you have back pressure on it with a bungie tied to a stanchion/stay/etc. This will save you a world of issues with the furler.
  12. Bad Andy

    Light wind drifter sail

    Exactly, and its way easier. Where do you tack your spinnaker to? I'd tack the screecher there as well.
  13. Bad Andy

    Light wind drifter sail

    Yes it will work on a cat. The sail they show here is more of a Code Zero than a drifter (back to that in a moment). On a cat we would call it a screecher but the overall concept is similiar. Its good for tight to broad (60-120 true) reaching in 5-13 knots. On a cat I would highly recommend running a Code Zero material (DP CZ or better) because of the added loads. If you are going to do another stay look into a furler with a proper torsion cable. If that is too spendy for you just put a dyneema luff cable on it and bag launch it like a kite. Both will be easier than a zipper. And back to a drifter. I generally refer to a drifter as a small (usually 100% LP or less) and light weight (DP CZ 5) sail that gets you moving in 0-5. Think staysail. We generally do not see them on cruising boats because they have the ultimate light air sail, the iron genoa.
  14. Bad Andy

    Dimension Polyant Aramid Sport

    That's my experience as well. GPL can make a great sail but a membrane made right will be better any day of the week. There is a large step up from Carbon Sport to GPL or membrane that is usually worth it unless you are at the edge of your budget.
  15. Bad Andy

    Dimension Polyant Aramid Sport

    Interesting, unless you plan to abuse your sails the carbon will be better. I'd usually only go with an Aramid sail for headsails that are going to get abused. Otherwise the price difference is so small to Carbon that its a no brainier. That being said as long as they have decent membranes they're always going to be a far better sail in the long run if made right.