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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

TeamFugu

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  1. I think the 505 is the better option. The 420 will get too small quickly. The 505 can be tuned to be a rocket ship or a little more forgiving. You'll probably have some swimming lessons along the way but everyone has had their share. The 505 is the first boat that I've seen where the crew member often is the owner of the boat. I was there once too. I love sailing the boat and prefer to be in the front of the boat. Finding a helmsman that you are comfortable with can be a chore but it is well worth it. If you can find a good used boat that you can afford, buy it. Then find the local 505 sailors and join them. When I was sailing a 505, they were a great bunch. Always ready to help. You can learn to sail on a leadmine but you'll have a hard time transitioning to a dinghy. Learn to sail a 505 and you'll be able to excel at sailing almost anything. My leadmine buddies used to laugh at mine. Then I'd show them how much I could control while under sail and change gears while on the water. Next I'd join them on the course and leave them in the dust. I learned tricks on my 505 that made me a much more effective leadmine sailor as well.
  2. I haven't been here for years. Sailing a skiff is not like most dinghys. For my Swift Solo, designed by a former 49er sailor as a single handed trainer, rarely can I right the boat with the mast to leeward. It takes less time to roll the boat so that the mast is to windward and let the wind help right the boat than to fight the wind. Speed is your friend. Sailing the boat at maximum speed is the easiest sailing you'll have. Trying to sail slow will only allow all of that sail to have more control over the boat. I've had to come in during a storm with just the jib up but it was strictly down wind. The boats are well balanced with both sails. Without the main, you can't point, without the jib, falling off is almost impossible. I prefer launching off of an open beach than to dealing with marinas. There is rarely enough room to maneuver inside a marina and the winds swirl making it very hard to sail. The boats don't weigh much so there isn't much momentum and they stop almost as quickly as they accelerate. Reht has given a good blow by blow of righting the boat. Have fun. Sail fast. Keep the stick in the air.
  3. On the up side, collar bones heal very well and ofthen without need for surgery. I've been told that broken collar bones are the most common injury for children and that they heal by themselves quickly. It doesn't change the fact that it sucks big time when you get winnged. My son broke his playing soccer and then I had to put up with a rabbid soccer player that couldn't play for six months. I think my hell was worse than his. Best of luck on a speedy recovery. I've done the 0 mph roll before but so far it has been into bushes and flower beds.
  4. Not that I have a dog in the show because I don't, but I thought the prefailing thought was to build wave piercing bows so that you went through the wave very easily instead of traveling the extra distance up and over the wave as well as the added drag of having so much energy being spent lifting the boat over the wave. Then your biggest drag will be the hardware on the deck, easily dealt with, and then the plank.
  5. OK how about some real R&D testing. Make several similar boats and try out a few of the discussed ideas. Find out what is really happening and let everyone know. Then the resulting hulls could be sold to people who want in on the DC life and you pay for your R&D as well as grow the class. Once you have it all sorted out, sell kits.
  6. Or it did it just to piss you off. Kind of like the frustration detector they put in copy machines where their ability to perform the assigned task is inversly proportional to your need.
  7. My guess is that there is something about one side having less surface area than the other. I've never seen a vacume bag deflated that vacumed out flat. Even putting a vacume on the odd air matress so I can get it into a smaller space left me with a crinkeld mess. The bottom side would stay flattened out while the top would have folds and creases that would cause the whole to curl. One way to maybe control this more would be to add a rail to the form and clamp the rail of the boat to it. You shouldn't require a lot of pressure from the clam. Just something to hold it stable. Most applications for a bag are where you have a mold on one side and you vacume the other forcing everything into the mold. The molds is usually very sturdy so it does not flex durring the process. Just a thought.
  8. FWIW, using foam bulkheads is a plus when you collide with something between the stations. If the station is very rigid, then the skin has a greater chance of failing catistrophicaly by sheering where a foam bulkead will deform allowing the skin to flex more. It seems everything has its plus and minus. Too bad it is hard to find something that comes up all plusses. But then this is a mute point if you can keep from hitting things. A very good idea no matter what you choose.
  9. Steve For now I'll take your word for it but that doesn't quite square with my limited experience. As long as the foam can keep the carbon from deflecting too much and will transfer the load over a wide area, it probably would work. Kevlar is messy stuff but it also transers the load in the skin better than carbon as well as having a better puncutre resistance.
  10. You'd probably be better off using Kevlar cloth for the skin on a foam cored seat than okume. It will have a much better puncture resistance and maybe a bit lighter. Down side is the cost and lack of user freindliness. Carbon is a wonderous product but should never be thought of as a skin material.
  11. I think they found that the boat was not symetric about the fore and aft axis. They also were testing the sharpness of the chines. Most teams are currently fixing some of this by calling it "fairing". The proposal was to fix the plug that produces the molds so that it is symetrical and the chines start out sharper. Kind of in effect, fixing problems with the original molds. I think the claim was that a boat pulled from a more "true" mold with sharper chines, towed with 10% less drag.
  12. What if you were to fit a wing mast like an A has with diamonds. The shrouds can be loose so you don't have to counter so much compression and a square top main. The thing I have to get my head around is getting the kicker to let go durring a tack or gybe so that the mast will rotate easliy. Cats have the advantage of the sheet controling leach tension because of the wide sheeting angle. Maybe you'd set something up like you guys have for the jib on the kicker so you can release it just before the tack and re tension it after the tack. Since you don't have to have internal haliards, you might be able to put some carbon stiffeners cross ways inside the mast separating foam that also acts as the mandrel when you lay up the mast. I saw an early high speed windurfer mast that was built this way and it seemed to be a good idea.
  13. The big reason that the I14's turn the gybe off down wind is that having to fight the spinnaker and keep the boat on its feet is quite enough without having the boatd gybe suddenly and then have the boat jump one way or the other. You also like leeway if it is a W/L course. Going to weather there is always presure on only one side of the board so it stays to one side or the other. I remember the way my 505 would feel going down wind with the board gybing. It made keeping the boat on course a little interesting at times. You can stop a lot of this in a 505 by pulling the board up a bit. On an I14 it woulde depend on how your cassette system works. I tried it on my Swift and it worked OK except for the gusher of water coming out of the DB trunk when I got up on a plane. If it blew hard enough, it could almost reach the boom. That couldn't be fast so I changed to a standard style and tight trunk. I can't tell you exactly how they work but I remember overstanding the windward mark too often right after getting a new Waterrat board. I'd tack on what used to be the lay line and end up way to weather by the time I got to the mark and have to ease off more than I'd liked.
  14. I don't think it has as much to do with the rig than the hull shape. Many of the newer designs in dinghy sailing have finer bows. Putting the bow down gives a little more bite to reduce leeway and you get the flatter transoms out of the water reducing wetted surface. Some of the older designs are full forward so yo don't get as much of an advantage.
  15. FWIW there are a couple advantages to using foam for the bulkheads. The first is that they are easier to shape than using wood. And another that many don't think about is that if you hit something close to a bulkhead, the bulkhead will give a bit where wood will most likely cause the skin to shear at the joint between the bulkhead and the hull. Sure it is not good to hit things but having your 3mm ply tear is more of a deal breaker than a little dent and some crazing.