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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.

atypicalguy

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About atypicalguy

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    International Canoe, Moth
  1. Anders tried that; I think he donated the boat to charity though.
  2. The aluminum rivets aren't strong enough and they corrode like crazy. Masts always seem to break where the rivet holes are. It is pretty easy to mold up something on the mast; I'll see if I can dig up some photos. KW
  3. Seems like a carbon gooseneck would be pretty easy to compression mold - like an A-cat but beefier.
  4. Just sorting through some other Sugar Island vids. Willy, is this you? Oh Karl, thats downright mean! I thought you guys might know who it was; I don't recognize them but it looks like it might be someone at Sugar? Anyway sorry if I hurt Willy's feelings; I thought he was secure enough to take some ribbing...
  5. Just sorting through some other Sugar Island vids. Willy, is this you?
  6. I had the misfortune to peel Bill's carriage off Rapa Nui at one point - from the end of the seat of course. Mayhem's carriage was creaking a bit in Florida after the tacks but I couldn't see anything moving. Certainly the racking loads spreading the feet apart must be humongous when you plug into a wave - perhaps an X brace from corner to corner under the carriage would go a long way - could be two pieces of low-stretch on a spanish windlass like the one I ran across under the front of Rapa Nui's carriage to keep it spreading for worlds in 2005 - that piece of line is still there, doing its job I think. Not to diminish the racking loads when hitting a wave but I think that the culprit at the moment of failure was the substantial side loads generated by my weight in the seat while the boat was heeled pushing the whole mess down to leeward. For the racking loads, I am going to stick with the large diagonal gussets, and the solid seat carriage pan that is bonded to all four sides. I will be adding much more substantial material at the bottom corners. A shorter seat carriage would help as well, but my creaky knees like the leg room that a taller seat & carriage provide. A painted Carriage would have helped me find the fatigue cracks earlier John Interesting. I suppose it does all pile up on the leeward side when heeled over. Sort of a vertical version of what I was referring to. Should be easy enough to fix; looks like it left the remainder of the carriage mostly intact. KW
  7. I had the misfortune to peel Bill's carriage off Rapa Nui at one point - from the end of the seat of course. Mayhem's carriage was creaking a bit in Florida after the tacks but I couldn't see anything moving. Certainly the racking loads spreading the feet apart must be humongous when you plug into a wave - perhaps an X brace from corner to corner under the carriage would go a long way - could be two pieces of low-stretch on a spanish windlass like the one I ran across under the front of Rapa Nui's carriage to keep it spreading for worlds in 2005 - that piece of line is still there, doing its job I think.
  8. OK glad it didn't happen when I was sailing it in Florida, but sorry to hear it. Funny how it's the highly loaded parts that always seem to break!
  9. Well done.
  10. No safety goggles? we didn't have safety when I started out in the world, so I never got in the habit! the glasses that I do use are reading glasses, just took them off here so I could see where the camera was to smile. actually, on the test pull I hid behind that fuel tank, and Chris hid behind a mobile bunker, reading the gauge with binoculars! taper your splices boys! cheers, Kenny The problem with braided PBO is creep, or at least that's what I found when I used it. Eventually it will set, but not until all the purchase in your adjustable shroud tackle has been used up and you can't get them tight any more. Every time you go sailing you just pull on more and more shroud tension as it creeps, until you hit the end. They loosen up again when you derig the boat. 1/8" might be better than the stuff I used, which was bigger. It is excellent for rigging up shrouds on the fly though - just some T-terminal loops and you are good to go. I think Anders used my old set at a regatta after his loaner boat shroud gave up on NoGo55 - just spliced them to length and voila.
  11. No safety goggles? Nice boat collection. Where farm meets water...I detect a theme here...
  12. Ok but how much fatter is a josie or a mayhem up front than your boat? String theory is skinnier I'll give you that, but I'm thinking freeboard has as much to do with it as wetted surface goes up dramatically when the knuckle hits..
  13. Better yet put a bow wand on the thing and let it control the angle of dangle. That would be sort of cool and thoughtless - in the good sense of the term. Damp the cant! I have the dampers. I will sell them to you. I have been blogging this up for kicks: http://www.ted.com/index.php/talks/downloa...o/6274/talk/492 It has a short vid of what I am running on the moth, but on a kite/cat thingy going somewhere pretty darned fast. Just offered because I know canoe sailors like this kind of stuff. On another topic, I emailed Chris earlier about sticking the bow in on reaches. I sailed Mayhem over last weekend in some breeze and was struck by how fast it went until I immersed the knuckle. At reaching speed, this throws a huge amount of water up the sides of the bow which seems to generate lots of drag for whatever reason. I had noted the same phenomenon on Lust Puppet. So I was thinking, why not put a step into the bow way down by the knuckle to release that flow from the sides of the boat. I'm sure someone has thought of this before but just wanted to get the wisdom of the group on why it is a stupid idea. KW
  14. My theory on the rudder is that it isn't as important on a lightly loaded 17' skinny singlehander as on a heavier 14' doublehander, or a non-foiling 11' Moth. Sounds like the A-cats are playing the same game with daggerboards canted tips inward to provide some lift. I don't see what it has to do with a rudder lifting foil though. The daggerboard on my moth cants fore/aft on a pivot. You could do something roughly similar with a laterally canting board; just make a socket for the top of the board to fit into, and run pins fore/aft into the leading and trailing edges of the socket at the hull exit. You can build little recesses in the bottom of the boat to land the pins in, and through bolt them to the bottom of the hull, with a separate pin at the top of the socket permitting you to pull the board up through it to satisfy the rule and permit reefing offwind. Making a case is a simple matter of deciding how much cant you want to try; I would suggest going with about twice as much as you think you will use, as it is easier to take range out than put it into your trunk after the fact (ask me how I know). It could be kind of fun to try a lot of cant and have the boat scoot sideways if you get caught out by a puff and end up heeling a lot. Maybe put some rubber stops on either side, damp it down a bit, and let it float both upwind and down - sort of a nice idea. My intention is to have the seat fixed in the forward position for optimal static trim in light conditions, and to use the foil to control downwind trim in heavier winds. I would be saving the weight of the carriage and track system, and simplifying the hull construction a little. If a quick control can be used, like a twist grip tiller extension, it may be possible to get better trim control downwind than if using a seat carriage. I find in practice that when I move my carriage aft, it's never in the optimum position for the whole leg, I always want it further aft in the gusts, and further forward in the lulls. Will the added drag of the foil be worth the gains? I don't know. There is a bit of an ulterior motive to using the rudder foil. For a while I've had the idea of using a canting centreboard. The idea is to allow the centreboard to swing sideways up to say 45 degrees either side of centreline. It then becomes a surface piercing foil, or at least, will provide some additional lift when sailing upwind. This idea gets around the foil restrictions in the canoe rules, and in light winds it can be locked in the vertical position, so becomes a conventional centreboard. There will be a bit of work involved in designing the centreboard case On the subject of the panel weight, for those interested, I've decided to allow for about 200 microns of epoxy on each side of the panel. This give me a coating weight of around 420g/m^2.
  15. El Crappy for us router-ignorant types can you describe the jig? I have to cut some curves with varying radii in the same curve and was wondering how this is typically done, though yours may be constant radius I can't tell from the photo. Thanks, ATG