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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

atypicalguy

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About atypicalguy

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    Anarchist

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    http://www.intcanoe.us
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  • Location
    USA, Los Angeles
  • Interests
    International Canoe, Moth
  1. DC Designs

    Anders tried that; I think he donated the boat to charity though.
  2. DC Designs

    The aluminum rivets aren't strong enough and they corrode like crazy. Masts always seem to break where the rivet holes are. It is pretty easy to mold up something on the mast; I'll see if I can dig up some photos. KW
  3. DC Designs

    Seems like a carbon gooseneck would be pretty easy to compression mold - like an A-cat but beefier.
  4. DC Designs

    Just sorting through some other Sugar Island vids. Willy, is this you? Oh Karl, thats downright mean! I thought you guys might know who it was; I don't recognize them but it looks like it might be someone at Sugar? Anyway sorry if I hurt Willy's feelings; I thought he was secure enough to take some ribbing...
  5. DC Designs

    Just sorting through some other Sugar Island vids. Willy, is this you?
  6. DC Designs

    I had the misfortune to peel Bill's carriage off Rapa Nui at one point - from the end of the seat of course. Mayhem's carriage was creaking a bit in Florida after the tacks but I couldn't see anything moving. Certainly the racking loads spreading the feet apart must be humongous when you plug into a wave - perhaps an X brace from corner to corner under the carriage would go a long way - could be two pieces of low-stretch on a spanish windlass like the one I ran across under the front of Rapa Nui's carriage to keep it spreading for worlds in 2005 - that piece of line is still there, doing its job I think. Not to diminish the racking loads when hitting a wave but I think that the culprit at the moment of failure was the substantial side loads generated by my weight in the seat while the boat was heeled pushing the whole mess down to leeward. For the racking loads, I am going to stick with the large diagonal gussets, and the solid seat carriage pan that is bonded to all four sides. I will be adding much more substantial material at the bottom corners. A shorter seat carriage would help as well, but my creaky knees like the leg room that a taller seat & carriage provide. A painted Carriage would have helped me find the fatigue cracks earlier John Interesting. I suppose it does all pile up on the leeward side when heeled over. Sort of a vertical version of what I was referring to. Should be easy enough to fix; looks like it left the remainder of the carriage mostly intact. KW
  7. DC Designs

    I had the misfortune to peel Bill's carriage off Rapa Nui at one point - from the end of the seat of course. Mayhem's carriage was creaking a bit in Florida after the tacks but I couldn't see anything moving. Certainly the racking loads spreading the feet apart must be humongous when you plug into a wave - perhaps an X brace from corner to corner under the carriage would go a long way - could be two pieces of low-stretch on a spanish windlass like the one I ran across under the front of Rapa Nui's carriage to keep it spreading for worlds in 2005 - that piece of line is still there, doing its job I think.
  8. DC Designs

    OK glad it didn't happen when I was sailing it in Florida, but sorry to hear it. Funny how it's the highly loaded parts that always seem to break!
  9. DC Designs

    Well done.
  10. DC Designs

    No safety goggles? we didn't have safety when I started out in the world, so I never got in the habit! the glasses that I do use are reading glasses, just took them off here so I could see where the camera was to smile. actually, on the test pull I hid behind that fuel tank, and Chris hid behind a mobile bunker, reading the gauge with binoculars! taper your splices boys! cheers, Kenny The problem with braided PBO is creep, or at least that's what I found when I used it. Eventually it will set, but not until all the purchase in your adjustable shroud tackle has been used up and you can't get them tight any more. Every time you go sailing you just pull on more and more shroud tension as it creeps, until you hit the end. They loosen up again when you derig the boat. 1/8" might be better than the stuff I used, which was bigger. It is excellent for rigging up shrouds on the fly though - just some T-terminal loops and you are good to go. I think Anders used my old set at a regatta after his loaner boat shroud gave up on NoGo55 - just spliced them to length and voila.
  11. DC Designs

    No safety goggles? Nice boat collection. Where farm meets water...I detect a theme here...
  12. DC Designs

    Ok but how much fatter is a josie or a mayhem up front than your boat? String theory is skinnier I'll give you that, but I'm thinking freeboard has as much to do with it as wetted surface goes up dramatically when the knuckle hits..
  13. DC Designs

    Better yet put a bow wand on the thing and let it control the angle of dangle. That would be sort of cool and thoughtless - in the good sense of the term. Damp the cant! I have the dampers. I will sell them to you. I have been blogging this up for kicks: http://www.ted.com/index.php/talks/downloa...o/6274/talk/492 It has a short vid of what I am running on the moth, but on a kite/cat thingy going somewhere pretty darned fast. Just offered because I know canoe sailors like this kind of stuff. On another topic, I emailed Chris earlier about sticking the bow in on reaches. I sailed Mayhem over last weekend in some breeze and was struck by how fast it went until I immersed the knuckle. At reaching speed, this throws a huge amount of water up the sides of the bow which seems to generate lots of drag for whatever reason. I had noted the same phenomenon on Lust Puppet. So I was thinking, why not put a step into the bow way down by the knuckle to release that flow from the sides of the boat. I'm sure someone has thought of this before but just wanted to get the wisdom of the group on why it is a stupid idea. KW
  14. DC Designs

    My theory on the rudder is that it isn't as important on a lightly loaded 17' skinny singlehander as on a heavier 14' doublehander, or a non-foiling 11' Moth. Sounds like the A-cats are playing the same game with daggerboards canted tips inward to provide some lift. I don't see what it has to do with a rudder lifting foil though. The daggerboard on my moth cants fore/aft on a pivot. You could do something roughly similar with a laterally canting board; just make a socket for the top of the board to fit into, and run pins fore/aft into the leading and trailing edges of the socket at the hull exit. You can build little recesses in the bottom of the boat to land the pins in, and through bolt them to the bottom of the hull, with a separate pin at the top of the socket permitting you to pull the board up through it to satisfy the rule and permit reefing offwind. Making a case is a simple matter of deciding how much cant you want to try; I would suggest going with about twice as much as you think you will use, as it is easier to take range out than put it into your trunk after the fact (ask me how I know). It could be kind of fun to try a lot of cant and have the boat scoot sideways if you get caught out by a puff and end up heeling a lot. Maybe put some rubber stops on either side, damp it down a bit, and let it float both upwind and down - sort of a nice idea. My intention is to have the seat fixed in the forward position for optimal static trim in light conditions, and to use the foil to control downwind trim in heavier winds. I would be saving the weight of the carriage and track system, and simplifying the hull construction a little. If a quick control can be used, like a twist grip tiller extension, it may be possible to get better trim control downwind than if using a seat carriage. I find in practice that when I move my carriage aft, it's never in the optimum position for the whole leg, I always want it further aft in the gusts, and further forward in the lulls. Will the added drag of the foil be worth the gains? I don't know. There is a bit of an ulterior motive to using the rudder foil. For a while I've had the idea of using a canting centreboard. The idea is to allow the centreboard to swing sideways up to say 45 degrees either side of centreline. It then becomes a surface piercing foil, or at least, will provide some additional lift when sailing upwind. This idea gets around the foil restrictions in the canoe rules, and in light winds it can be locked in the vertical position, so becomes a conventional centreboard. There will be a bit of work involved in designing the centreboard case On the subject of the panel weight, for those interested, I've decided to allow for about 200 microns of epoxy on each side of the panel. This give me a coating weight of around 420g/m^2.
  15. DC Designs

    El Crappy for us router-ignorant types can you describe the jig? I have to cut some curves with varying radii in the same curve and was wondering how this is typically done, though yours may be constant radius I can't tell from the photo. Thanks, ATG