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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About GeorgB

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  • Location
    Helsinki, Finland
  1. Hydranet +4
  2. Thanks for all the good tips, ideas and opinions. I'll post pics when it's done but it might take a while since spring is finally here and i'm going to focus on sailing instead of maintenance
  3. I think the OP has a braided wire outer sheat, not foil as in the picture above but yeah, the same instructions apply!
  4. Solar panel, new clutches, halyard bags, some new deck caulking... still need to install a few fairleads, wash the deck and bend the sails on and i'll be sailing!
  5. Thanks for the suggestions! The cheapest faceplate for a b-panel i've managed to find is 90 € and i'm not over the moon about the quality of the one i have. Further, i want to get rid of the key. I already have all the components including G10, ip67 certified pushbuttons and even a nice ip50 certified buzzer. I do enjoy tinkering with electronics and find pleasure in building something bombproof. I guess i'll just have to prototype the circuit before putting it in the boat.
  6. Good question Daddle! I couldn't find any spec sheet with electrical carachteristics for the buzzer but it is piezo so i assume it's probably not more than that of the leds. However, reason enough to mock it up before final installation to see that everything works correct.
  7. I'm planning to make a custom engine control panel since my yanmar b-type panel is not doing so well. The current plan is to salvage the wire harness & tach and replacing the ignition key with pushbuttons for engine on, start and stop. My question concerns the idiot light/buzzer assembly. In the current panel the lights and the buzzer are wired in parallell with diodes giving reverse current protection between each light and the buzzer. Schematic below: I would like to avoid making a pcb for this so i've been concidering what components i could leave out and how to wire everything neatly point to point and one solution could be wiring the buzzer in series with LEDs instead of the parallell incandescents. Indeed resistance would be greater but i reckon the circuit would work fine anyway. Schematic: What do you think?
  8. My only pair of topsiders have been like skates on ice since day one. They look good but i'll never buy another pair.
  9. The Vulcan is compatible with anything NMEA2000.
  10. Outside of Sveaborg fortress in Helsinki, Finland a few years ago.
  11. My YC has a new one that is pretty nice. This is the only pic i coul find for now. Unfortunately it is from when the crane was under construction so there are some parts missing. The crane is built by a company that is specialized in skilifts. There is a sled that slides along the horizontal boom. The sled is controlled by a self tailing winch on ground level. Attached to the sled there is a wire with a hook for lifting rigs. The wire is controlled by an electric winch on ground level. Additionally the ladder going up the crane can be moved horizontally along the boom in order to remove masthead instruments, positioning lifting strops and such. The crane was designed to be higher than any masts at our YC, in fact it is the highest mast crane in Finland. Kind of difficult to explain how it works in writing but i can try to if you have any questions.
  12. I think the Swan 36 looks fine!
  13. Yes, it is in Finnish but there are loads of construction photos, line drawings, brochure reprints etc. I'll try to remember to bring it to work someday and scan h-boat related stuff for you if you'd like.
  14. I think a Harken 150 cleat mounted on the mast and a small tackle will be enough. I've never had to use a winch for a h-boat jib halyard. By the way, do you know about this book: