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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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About eliboat

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  1. Complete piece of shit. Bought one, suffered through a month of shoulder pain from trying to start it, ditched it. Green canister good for 2 round trips to and from the boat from the mooring/anchor. That's for an average 1/4 mile or less trip. Anything more and you are pushing it. That's if you can start the thing. I found myself a sweet 2 stroke Yamaha 9.9 on Craigslist and I haven't looked back. While I feel bad about the pollution, this is the only motor that I have absolute confidence in. My mercury 9.9 4 stroke (a tohatsu) may have been a bigger piece of shit than the Lehr. Completely unable to handle modern fuels. The only motor that I had to fucking clean the carb more than once in a day...and that happened more than once. The ultimate solution here is to stop converting food crops to fuel, as the green benefit is nonexistent, and big agribusiness has come to love the corporate welfare.
  2. Restless, a Rhodes reliant won the 2000 Bermuda race. Second by a hair was the 1930 Rhodes custom, Bangalore, a very special boat that also makes clear Rhodes' ability as a designer.
  3. I use Flitz for scuff marks on awlgrip. Works perfectly for me. No issues dulling the shine.
  4. With a camera usually. Sometimes you can get an artist to paint a picture
  5. It's also both material intensive (lots of waste) and labor intensive to build. Better than crosscut from a shape holding perspective, but still woefully less effective at matching fibers to load paths as a 3di type sail.
  6. Aramid is the generic name for Kevlar. Dacron is a trade name for Polyethylene terephthalate
  7. It's probably decent, but not as stiff overall as carbon, aramid or dyneema materials. The fact that the yarns are now truly oriented along predicted load paths will go a very long way towards shape holding, and likely be a dramatic improvement on dacron sails. All of that said, I still stand by my original point that you should not expect these sails to be bulletproof like woven dacron sails, as they are now essentially polyester laminates all relying on the same glues that eventually suffer in a catastrophic failure mode. On the other hand, you should expect many more seasons of decent sail shape than you would with a woven sail, particularly if you opt to go with full battens.
  8. I get what you're saying completely. As a racer, I obviously appreciate reliable sail shape. I also really enjoy this as a cruiser too. I have a new main coming this season after having to go last season with my very old North dacron main. I had to do this because my previous main, a Cuben Fiber sail basically failed instantaneously. That sail, up to that point had a terrific flying shape. I am still grateful to have an old blown out dacron sail that is essentially indestructible, but sailing with it vs my cuben sail is a completely different experience, particularly in light air and close hauled in any breeze. My feeling is that the cruising benefits of good sail shape are largely underappreciated within the cruising community.
  9. Interesting. Based on quotes that I've gotten from North for Dacron sails vs their other technologies and those of competitors, North Dacron panelled sails were generally in the same ballpark as laminate sails from other manufacturers. That said, I would want to see of these sails provide the same kind of bullet proof reliability as traditional panel sails with woven dacron. I am a big fan of better sail technology, and I largely think that Dacron ends up being more expensive than better technologies if you really care about shape holding over time. That said, laminates have intrinsic life span issues built in (glue oxidation in particular, and film breakdown), and I'm guessing that the oxidation issue would be present with this new technology, as the fibers are presumably held in place with glue. At the end of the day, this definitely looks like a win for shape holding, though I'm skeptical that those thinking that they will all of a sudden have access to molded technology at a reduced cost because their sails are white will be disappointed, as the materials cost shouldn't amount to a huge difference unless comparing to carbon fiber. As an interesting side argument for this technology. The organizers of some classic yachts events have been wringing their hands about the use of modern sails in these events. Some folks get all bunged up when they see black sails, and they attribute all success to people having these sails, even when the results either suggest otherwise, or the sailors lodging complaints can barely sail upwind to begin with, so focus their efforts on personal improvement by attacking rating systems or the hardware of others. Given that these sails are made of Dacron, which for some reason is seen as a natural fiber by this bozos, I would see this as a great way to appease the classic yacht dilettantes, and not throw money away by purchasing woven racing sails that lose their shape a quarter of the way through the season. .
  10. My current dog, Ernie is a phenomenal boat dog. He loves to sail, probably because he gets to lay in direct sunlight, which is a favorite activity. He has a low center of gravity, so he's sure footed, and he taught himself to grab my shoulders like a parrot when we're getting in and out of the dinghy so that he can get to and from the rail. Ernie can also hold his pee for a ridiculous time, and he has never pooped or peed onboard.
  11. I saw that last week. Very tempting, but then again someone asked me the other day how many boats I own, and I couldn't answer right away. This is a problem.
  12. Keel doesn't look right at all. Could be LFH's M class Istalena. I'm to lazy to go to the other room to grab a book to confirm though. Lines for Istalena are surprisingly hard to find on the internet.
  13. I'm down on their product for not behaving the same as it used to. Does Epifanes have more solids? Hard to know. That's what they claim, but as I said, I have had just as good results durability wise with awlspar... without the insane open time and prep work involved with Epifanes regular. So yeah, I don't like it as much as I used to. I still think it's a great varnish... just as I said basically all marine varnishes are very good, it's just not what I want to use 90% of the time.
  14. I have a lot of boats, and they almost all require lots of annual varnishing that I do myself. The largest is 46' and it has acres of varnishing to do...I also have a 32' Chris Craft and a 30' Chris Craft which are also shiny things. Over the years I have used almost every marine varnish product, and they are all good products. If you have a lot of varnishing to do though, Awspar M131 Spar Varnish is hands down the best. You can get 3 coats on in a day if the conditions are right and you can recoat without sanding within 36 hours. This makes life infinitely easier if you want to avoid the endless cycle of sanding, cleaning, wiping taping etc etc etc. As a varnish, it retains gloss over a season just as well as Epifanes. I used to used Epifanes exclusively. 10-15 years ago their spar varnish was a different product than it is now. It used to come out of the can without any need for thinning, and now it seems to be thicker than it once was. Also, Epifanes stays wet FOREVER. This makes getting a perfect finish nearly impossible unless you have access to a clean room. My boats are are on the hard at boatyards. Even indoors, people driving in and out of the yard, sanding and moving around always kicks up dust. Having a varnish system that kicks off quickly yet doesn't need to be thinned out of the can in most instances is a godsend. Awlspar M131 is that varnish. Epifanes woodfinish gloss is also a good product for building up coats quickly and has a longer open window of 72 hours before needing to resand. Despite what people claim (they claim this with M131 as well) you can skip putting a final coat of regular slow curing/ sand between coats varnish over this, as the gloss retention and UV protection is actually excellent. I think the thing with varnish is to just not overthink it. It's actually one of the easier finish systems to get right, and some basic prep and housekeeping makes getting a great finish easy. Like I said, all of the major marine varnish products are very good products and they all work as advertised. What you end up going with really should come down to personal preference as far as use is concerned. Basic tricks like rolling and tipping and tipping vertically on vertical surfaces will go a long way towards avoiding common pitfalls that beginners encounter. Never glop on too thick a coat, and always work into the wet edge. Use a filter and never dip your brush into the can.
  15. Do yourself a favor and read Herman Wouk's Don't Stop the Carnival.... https://www.amazon.com/Dont-Stop-Carnival-Herman-Wouk/dp/0316955124