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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About ewalker

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  • Location
    bellingham wa
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  1. My Next Boat

    Has anyone used the older smaller Lewmar self tailers? Only the bottom jaw spins with the winch. The top jaw is smooth and stationary. They look like it might work well as a cleat but not as a selftailer I have a friend with a few that I can get my hands on but if they are not worth it I don't want to drill the holes in the boat.
  2. My Next Boat

    Or you can go to the source of the product - it's actually a geotextile foundation drain called Enkadrain from Colbond. http://www.colbond-geosynthetics.com/cms/generated/pages/products/enkadrain/productfamily/default.htm I think it's Dutch. We used it on our last foundation on a moisture-active hillside. Turns out it's the same stuff as hypervent, but it only costs a buck a square foot (or did 10 years ago) from your local building supply outfit - a tangled polyester mesh with a filter fabric attached. Our foundation leftovers worked great under our bunks, and never deteriorated on foundation or bunk; probably more than you can say for the Chinese stuff. We've moved since, otherwise I'd have 1000 ft2 leftover to give away ;-) Good tip!
  3. My Next Boat

    50 years exactly! All the bronze winches are original with the boat and she was launched in 1966. I was thinking of he locktite stuff. I will hide it a try and let you all know the results. I will be sailing in the Caribbean for the next few weeks. Updates will resume early April when I get back to Wings.
  4. My Next Boat

    I broke my jib halyard winch a bit ago and just got some time to have a look at it. Turns out it's toast cracked the casting. I used this as a good excuse to re organize my winch plan on the cabin top. I had had all lines lead aft through clutches. There were 3 winches on starboard and 2 on port. Most smaller than the one I broke. I also had 4 winches on the mast that I never used because everything was lead aft. With my overarching goal of making the boat as simple as possible with few systems I took all 9 winches off the cabin top and mast. Filled all the holes and am ready to start again. I stripped down cleaned and rebuilt all the winches thinking I might use the nice ones from the mast on the cabin top but after thinking about it I believe that all the winches I have are too small. I am sure I could crank them on hard enough but the girl friend might have a hard time. So the current plan is for all my winches to end up on eBay. One of my friends had a pair of Barlow 24 two speed stainless winches around that he passed on to me. Seemed like a good size for a cabin top winch. I stripped those down and rebuilt, it's really starting to be a winch weekend as I'm at 11 winches rebuild so far. One went back together perfect but the other has a large void in one of the bushing surfaces. It's the surface that guides the center stainless shaft. I can't tell if it's corrosion or manufacturing defect. See pictures below. I don't really want to weld and re machine if I can ovoid it. I was thinking of filling it with a shaft repair epoxy and then honing to shape. Has anyone ever tried this on a winch? Got any recriminations for good epoxies?
  5. My Next Boat

    I used hypervent for the two years I lived aboard. It worked pretty well but was not perfect. i was just thinking i might be able to solve my moisture issues, make the bed a bit plusher, and open up the access to v berth storage all with one simple project.
  6. My Next Boat

    The new head was delivered today! Will take some time to get it installed as the head needs to be repainted first.
  7. My Next Boat

    Cal 40!!!! I was thinking of a 4" perimeter and it would end up being two layers of plywood. Cut the plywood 3" from the hull side and then glue another piece of plywood under the original sticking out another inch this would create the shelf for the slats to sit on. I was thinking that if the air could really flow under around through the bunk it would all end up being the temperature of the cabin thus minimizing the condensation causing differential
  8. My Next Boat

    Another one of my projects i could use some input on is the V berth. When i was living aboard condensation under the mattress was always a battle. I sent the money on one of those underbunk products to allow for more air circulation. this helped but was not the perfect solution. I am now thinking of cutting out the plywood V berth and replacing with wooden or preferably plastic slats. I think this might have several benefits. first being the added ventilation second may make the bed more comfortable third i could remove all the slats to access the storage under the V berth much better. My only concern so far is that the plywood may be structural as it is bonded to the hull but my gut tells me that it will be just fine. attached is a picture of what i'm thinking cheers- EWalker
  9. My Next Boat

    I could build a dorade box but I just don't really want anything on deck. I'm trying to think of clever ideas to sneak it in.
  10. My Next Boat

    Sorry bob I don't sail on anything with keel bolts
  11. My Next Boat

    Hello all sorry I have been a bit quiet on the old SA threads. Wings is doing well but in need of a bit of love here and there. One of the projects I am just getting started on is the new head. I have ordered an Airhead composting toilet should be in my hands this week. The install is pretty straightforward with the exception of one thing. I need to vent it with a 2.25" hole to outside the boat somewhere. The common idea is in a dorade box or with a mushroom vent. I was just toying around with the idea of venting it into my mast. The mast is keel stepped and right next to the head making access easy. THe bottom is sealed so no odors would come into the boat. There are plenty of holes in the mast above deck for fumes to escape above deck. I would have to drill a big hole in the side of the mast below deck but I think my mast is a tree trunk and if I really got carried away I could add a stiffener ring. It seemed like it might be a stealth way to get the venting. Any thoughts?
  12. Surface supplied air diving

    Another flawless hookah dive today. I was able to re assembled the max prop to the shaft out of the water and slide the whole thing in. Only thing I forgot was the zinc but that was easy enough to add in the water.
  13. Surface supplied air diving

    Kim, Of all the 12 volt models.I have seen the brownie would be my top choice and then air lines by j sink would be #2
  14. Surface supplied air diving

    Thank you fast bottoms! Your advice is much appreciated.
  15. My Next Boat

    Update, I got some north 3dl hank on sails from a fellow cal 40 owner. The are awesome! Best money I have spent on the boat. I got jib car tracks mounted inboard on the deck for the #3 with backing plates and they seem to hold up great. I used high-mod fittings for the forestay. Easy to install and have held and not slipped. We have had some really good wind and they have proved them selfs to me. We race every Wednesday on the bay and do the longer weekend races when we can. Life is good as a sail boat. Last summer I was fighting some bad vibrations from the prop shaft and into the v drive. I had some time so I pulled the v drive and the prop shaft. I was assuming a bent shaft but as I was pulling everything apart the flange on the prop shaft was a loose fit and there was wear on the centering ring. I think this might have been the culprit all along. I checked the shaft today and it is true with in .0015" I am not sure what spec is but I am going to call it good. The output flange on the v drive also showed signs of wear. The centering ring measured .005-.010 small. I am going to get a used shaft flange from the marine exchange and look at machining both parts to match. I can always put a weld bead on the v drive flange and machine it back to spec. I have an old PSS shaft seal on the boat. I am thinking of replacing it with a good old packing gland and using Teflon or graphite packing. The standard packing seems less prone to failure and if it does go easier to repair out in the middle of somewhere. What are your thoughts on the types of shaft seals available? Thanks, Evan