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    • UnderDawg

      A Few Simple Rules   05/22/2017

      Sailing Anarchy is a very lightly moderated site. This is by design, to afford a more free atmosphere for discussion. There are plenty of sailing forums you can go to where swearing isn't allowed, confrontation is squelched and, and you can have a moderator finger-wag at you for your attitude. SA tries to avoid that and allow for more adult behavior without moderators editing your posts and whacking knuckles with rulers. We don't have a long list of published "thou shalt nots" either, and this is by design. Too many absolute rules paints us into too many corners. So check the Terms of Service - there IS language there about certain types of behavior that is not permitted. We interpret that lightly and permit a lot of latitude, but we DO reserve the right to take action when something is too extreme to tolerate (too racist, graphic, violent, misogynistic, etc.). Yes, that is subjective, but it allows us discretion. Avoiding a laundry list of rules allows for freedom; don't abuse it. However there ARE a few basic rules that will earn you a suspension, and apparently a brief refresher is in order. 1) Allegations of pedophilia - there is no tolerance for this. So if you make allegations, jokes, innuendo or suggestions about child molestation, child pornography, abuse or inappropriate behavior with minors etc. about someone on this board you will get a time out. This is pretty much automatic; this behavior can have real world effect and is not acceptable. Obviously the subject is not banned when discussion of it is apropos, e.g. talking about an item in the news for instance. But allegations or references directed at or about another poster is verboten. 2) Outing people - providing real world identifiable information about users on the forums who prefer to remain anonymous. Yes, some of us post with our real names - not a problem to use them. However many do NOT, and if you find out someone's name keep it to yourself, first or last. This also goes for other identifying information too - employer information etc. You don't need too many pieces of data to figure out who someone really is these days. Depending on severity you might get anything from a scolding to a suspension - so don't do it. I know it can be confusing sometimes for newcomers, as SA has been around almost twenty years and there are some people that throw their real names around and their current Display Name may not match the name they have out in the public. But if in doubt, you don't want to accidentally out some one so use caution, even if it's a personal friend of yours in real life. 3) Posting While Suspended - If you've earned a timeout (these are fairly rare and hard to get), please observe the suspension. If you create a new account (a "Sock Puppet") and return to the forums to post with it before your suspension is up you WILL get more time added to your original suspension and lose your Socks. This behavior may result a permanent ban, since it shows you have zero respect for the few rules we have and the moderating team that is tasked with supporting them. Check the Terms of Service you agreed to; they apply to the individual agreeing, not the account you created, so don't try to Sea Lawyer us if you get caught. Just don't do it. Those are the three that will almost certainly get you into some trouble. IF YOU SEE SOMEONE DO ONE OF THESE THINGS, please do the following: Refrain from quoting the offending text, it makes the thread cleanup a pain in the rear Press the Report button; it is by far the best way to notify Admins as we will get e-mails. Calling out for Admins in the middle of threads, sending us PM's, etc. - there is no guarantee we will get those in a timely fashion. There are multiple Moderators in multiple time zones around the world, and anyone one of us can handle the Report and all of us will be notified about it. But if you PM one Mod directly and he's off line, the problem will get dealt with much more slowly. Other behaviors that you might want to think twice before doing include: Intentionally disrupting threads and discussions repeatedly. Off topic/content free trolling in threads to disrupt dialog Stalking users around the forums with the intent to disrupt content and discussion Repeated posting of overly graphic or scatological porn content. There are plenty web sites for you to get your freak on, don't do it here. And a brief note to Newbies... No, we will not ban people or censor them for dropping F-bombs on you, using foul language, etc. so please don't report it when one of our members gives you a greeting you may find shocking. We do our best not to censor content here and playing swearword police is not in our job descriptions. Sailing Anarchy is more like a bar than a classroom, so handle it like you would meeting someone a little coarse - don't look for the teacher. Thanks.


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About ewalker

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    bellingham wa
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  1. Has anyone used the older smaller Lewmar self tailers? Only the bottom jaw spins with the winch. The top jaw is smooth and stationary. They look like it might work well as a cleat but not as a selftailer I have a friend with a few that I can get my hands on but if they are not worth it I don't want to drill the holes in the boat.
  2. Or you can go to the source of the product - it's actually a geotextile foundation drain called Enkadrain from Colbond. http://www.colbond-geosynthetics.com/cms/generated/pages/products/enkadrain/productfamily/default.htm I think it's Dutch. We used it on our last foundation on a moisture-active hillside. Turns out it's the same stuff as hypervent, but it only costs a buck a square foot (or did 10 years ago) from your local building supply outfit - a tangled polyester mesh with a filter fabric attached. Our foundation leftovers worked great under our bunks, and never deteriorated on foundation or bunk; probably more than you can say for the Chinese stuff. We've moved since, otherwise I'd have 1000 ft2 leftover to give away ;-) Good tip!
  3. 50 years exactly! All the bronze winches are original with the boat and she was launched in 1966. I was thinking of he locktite stuff. I will hide it a try and let you all know the results. I will be sailing in the Caribbean for the next few weeks. Updates will resume early April when I get back to Wings.
  4. I broke my jib halyard winch a bit ago and just got some time to have a look at it. Turns out it's toast cracked the casting. I used this as a good excuse to re organize my winch plan on the cabin top. I had had all lines lead aft through clutches. There were 3 winches on starboard and 2 on port. Most smaller than the one I broke. I also had 4 winches on the mast that I never used because everything was lead aft. With my overarching goal of making the boat as simple as possible with few systems I took all 9 winches off the cabin top and mast. Filled all the holes and am ready to start again. I stripped down cleaned and rebuilt all the winches thinking I might use the nice ones from the mast on the cabin top but after thinking about it I believe that all the winches I have are too small. I am sure I could crank them on hard enough but the girl friend might have a hard time. So the current plan is for all my winches to end up on eBay. One of my friends had a pair of Barlow 24 two speed stainless winches around that he passed on to me. Seemed like a good size for a cabin top winch. I stripped those down and rebuilt, it's really starting to be a winch weekend as I'm at 11 winches rebuild so far. One went back together perfect but the other has a large void in one of the bushing surfaces. It's the surface that guides the center stainless shaft. I can't tell if it's corrosion or manufacturing defect. See pictures below. I don't really want to weld and re machine if I can ovoid it. I was thinking of filling it with a shaft repair epoxy and then honing to shape. Has anyone ever tried this on a winch? Got any recriminations for good epoxies?
  5. I used hypervent for the two years I lived aboard. It worked pretty well but was not perfect. i was just thinking i might be able to solve my moisture issues, make the bed a bit plusher, and open up the access to v berth storage all with one simple project.
  6. The new head was delivered today! Will take some time to get it installed as the head needs to be repainted first.
  7. Cal 40!!!! I was thinking of a 4" perimeter and it would end up being two layers of plywood. Cut the plywood 3" from the hull side and then glue another piece of plywood under the original sticking out another inch this would create the shelf for the slats to sit on. I was thinking that if the air could really flow under around through the bunk it would all end up being the temperature of the cabin thus minimizing the condensation causing differential
  8. Another one of my projects i could use some input on is the V berth. When i was living aboard condensation under the mattress was always a battle. I sent the money on one of those underbunk products to allow for more air circulation. this helped but was not the perfect solution. I am now thinking of cutting out the plywood V berth and replacing with wooden or preferably plastic slats. I think this might have several benefits. first being the added ventilation second may make the bed more comfortable third i could remove all the slats to access the storage under the V berth much better. My only concern so far is that the plywood may be structural as it is bonded to the hull but my gut tells me that it will be just fine. attached is a picture of what i'm thinking cheers- EWalker
  9. I could build a dorade box but I just don't really want anything on deck. I'm trying to think of clever ideas to sneak it in.
  10. Sorry bob I don't sail on anything with keel bolts
  11. Hello all sorry I have been a bit quiet on the old SA threads. Wings is doing well but in need of a bit of love here and there. One of the projects I am just getting started on is the new head. I have ordered an Airhead composting toilet should be in my hands this week. The install is pretty straightforward with the exception of one thing. I need to vent it with a 2.25" hole to outside the boat somewhere. The common idea is in a dorade box or with a mushroom vent. I was just toying around with the idea of venting it into my mast. The mast is keel stepped and right next to the head making access easy. THe bottom is sealed so no odors would come into the boat. There are plenty of holes in the mast above deck for fumes to escape above deck. I would have to drill a big hole in the side of the mast below deck but I think my mast is a tree trunk and if I really got carried away I could add a stiffener ring. It seemed like it might be a stealth way to get the venting. Any thoughts?
  12. As said before there is no question that on non planing boats a symmetric kite on a squared back pole will always result in better down wind VMG. That being said from a cruising point of view an asymmetric kite cut for running especially paired with a fuller or sock is a great cruising option. If your goal is ease for cruising how it affects your rating seems to me like it does not matter your, cruising remember. I have thought that an articulating sprit would work well on cruisers. They are used in some class 40s. With the ability to square the sprit back its a bit of the best of both worlds.
  13. Yes all generations of Volvo 70s have used buckle or carribeaner hanks. I replaced the top few hanks with locking hanks and the rest are standard. Any that I thought had less than ideal springs got replaced. I will let you all know how it works.
  14. No stretch. Then all the energy is transferred into moving the boat. Would seem silly to get I nice low stretch kite and then put a stretchy halyard on it. And why is your spinnaker collapsing and filling just keep it full and it's not a problem.
  15. Thanks for the thoughts. The problem happens when bringing a halyard around the bow or dropping code sails. Hoisting has not been such an issue as the head swings away from the boat. It's especial bad when dropping a code sail to windward which is my preferred way of dropping. I have 4 kite halyards two mast head and two fractional. I can keep mast head halyards away better because of the distance at the top but the fractional a are a nightmare. The old hanks were 2" webbing sewn to the sail with a buckle. The new hanks are standard carribeaners that pass through an eye on the luff. I could get locking carribeaners but as these were supplied with the sail I was hoping to not replace new parts.the halyards are uncovered 8mm spectra.