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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Cman

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About Cman

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  1. NKE Gyropilot settings/adjustment

    I think all you really need is a rudder coefficient setting for displacement mode and planing mode, maybe change wind dampening for sea state as well. The quick access gain setting with auto counter rudder will cover the response effort for the point of sail and conditions. Don't think more than that will yield a lot. The manual says a Figaro2 would be rudder coefficient of 15. I think the HR pilot has a lot more types of behavior settings for the level of customization you're suggesting Just my 2 cents
  2. J 121

    J121*/Pogo12.50 Base price $385k (USA built) / $235k (French built)** LOA 40 / 41 Beam 12.3 / 14.8 Draft 7.75 / 9.8 (swing back keel to 4.6) Dspl 11.5k / 11k Water Ballast +1k / NA Upwind SA 961 / 1151 Downwind SA 2164 / 2346 *From previous poster **From Pogo Structures website 2015 list base price converted from euros Is that base price on the pogo just wrong or misleading (or did I just read/calculate that wrong)? Doesn’t seem so from a recent purchaser of one who posted his spend on another thread. Also, I understand that the pogo is built exceptionally well (and it’s nice that there’s enough foam in it to make it unsinkable). Assuming those prices are right, does it really cost that much more to build boats in the USA? I would think the J121 would be better in light air and probably generally better upwind. I would think the pogo would generally be better reaching from say 60 to 140. They’re probably generally similar past 140. J121 probably more satisfying racing (unless ocean racing) given more range of performance, but definitely paying for it. Of course, isn’t it going to get slaughtered on rating with water ballast??? I’d be curious what other thought.
  3. J109 asym. furling, is it possible?

    I tried making it work, and I think it’s much more trouble than it is worth. If the torsion cable twists (and it will eventually no matter how careful you are) during furling, then when it snaps back the counter twist will knot up the spinnaker and resulting mess is about as bad a mess you can ever get with a spinnaker. Other things about it seemed good in theory, but it turns out it’s just not practical (never gets tight enough to not have to take down as soon as practical, running the furling line is a PITA, does not furl as quickly as you could go to the bow and pull down the snuffer, and the list goes on). I went back to a snuffer, and have found new respect for its simplicity, effectiveness, and ease of use. To minimize trips back and forth to the bow while launching/retrieving as well as keeping the foot from dragging in the water before you can get it off the sprit, consider adding a clutch for the tack line at the bow (I’m assuming you want this for shorthanded).
  4. Marine software for tablets

    Is there an iOS app with weather routing using polar inputs?
  5. electric vs manual head

    Wow, what great feedback. Thanks everybody! Think I will go with the Raritan Sea Era -- seems like it would be the simplest to drop in place of the existing PHC
  6. What is more efficient at maximizing the holding tank capacity, an electric or manual toilet, and is it meaningful? It seems my biggest tankage/supply limitation when on a mooring for a few days is the holding tank filling up. I was on a charter boat with an electric head and my impression was that it was using a lot less water. My thinking is that since there is effectively no solid waste (since it's all chopped up) there is less water needed to get the waste to the tank. So I'm thinking about switching to an electric for this reason -- seems easier than trying to fit a larger holding tank. As an aside, the charter boat used a gravity flush on the holding tank. We have a pump on our boat. Is that a USA/California requirement to have a pump for it?
  7. NMEA Data to Laptop

    NKE makes a wifi box that plugs into their bus system and it also has a wired in and/or out -- I would think that would work really well, provide a lot of connection options, and eliminate conversion equipment
  8. J109 Backstay Loads and Other Things.

    So with this beefed up fix, what's the next thing to break when the loads get too much: sprit, mast, hull housing around sprit? Seems the pad eye ripping from the bulk head is a relatively cheap fix.