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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  


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About argh

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  1. That’s good news! I hope that in addition to boathandling the series would include some video with focus on driving.
  2. I ordered the newer Bethwaite books from Amazon... I’ve read the first book back in the days before buying the boat, but at that time I sailed heavy cruiser/racers so I probably skipped over the asymmetric and planing stuff... Meanwhile I found this video by Ian Walker and John Merricks: The beef is around 40minutes in, there is a practical example of generating apparent wind.
  3. why am i here?

    In the mid 90’s I was sailing a Laser. The qualification race for the IYRU Youth Worlds on Bermuda was one single regatta, and it was blowing 40kts in the gusts. I got the boom in my head in a gybe, lights went out for a split second. After checking my head for blood I continued racing despite having a light concussion and vomiting. I was thinking it was insane but the ticket to the worlds required a good result and beating the other youth sailors...
  4. I’ve been sailing a Melges 24 for two seasons. It is my first experience driving a boat with an asymmetric. We have come a long way from being miserably slow to being reasonably fast in heavy and light air, but the top boats really kills us in marginal planing conditions. Are there any good instructional videos where someone would be commenting on the driving? Quantum and Chris Rast has this one on switching modes: and there is this Embarr video from Miami... but any other good videos that would teach driving a sports boat downwind? Any good articles or books?
  5. Zeus / Vulcan / Ipad Configuration

    I’ve been racing on a boat with a B&g ZEUS inside and an IPad used by the navigator on deck over WiFi. There has been some issues with battery life, for a 40-mile offshore race the iPad had to be charged multiple times. Murphy’s law makes the battery die at the most inconvenient time.
  6. Battery size for instruments

    No. I thought it allowed but read the rules again and batteries must be removed during weighing. So I will have to go for some lightweight LiFePo4 batteries.
  7. Battery size for instruments

    I’d like to avoid extra hassle of switching batteries between starts, or running out of battery on a long day, so if I go with rc-batteries then it will be Lithium. Thanks for the explanation!
  8. I’m trying to figure out how big battery I need to power instruments in a racing boat with no engine charging possible. I’m thinking of a B&G Triton display, a direction sensor and an airmar DST800 log/depth sensor. https://www.svb-media.de/media/3106/pdf/datasheet_en_2010-05-11.pdf In the spec Sheet, Airmar talks about 100W rms power, but lower down on the page there is voltage 9-16V and supply current <200mA. With the formula P=I•U, I get a max power consumption of 1.8W-3.2W. That is quite far from the power rating of 100W... what is the explanation for this difference? I guess I should use the lower number when calculating the battery capacity? Display 1.9W Compass sensor 1W Dst800 depth speed - 3W ??? total power: 6W Voltage 12V —> 0.5A current Racing day max 12h. Energy consumption of a race day: 6Ah How large should the battery be? I should put some margin so that I do not totally discharge it, but how much? Are the capacities that the battery manufacturers claim reliable? I’m not yet sure whether I go for lead battery or lithium. The weight is probably not that much of an issue, the boat has corrector weights which could be removed. -argh-
  9. Block with carbon sheave

    Please post the patent on your website or here so that we can see what your patent covers. Or a patent number so that it can be looked up easily. BTW going after a happy DIY guy with patent infringement claims on the SA forums is an awesome marketing strategy...
  10. Shipping a Melges24 jib from US to Europe?

    When you buy a brand new north sails Melges 24 main, it gets delivered so that it is folded once vertically and the rolled. This to make it fit in the cardboard box. Maybe you can do the same with the jib?
  11. Velocitek ProStart Feedback

    The distance to the line feature takes some practice to get used to. It is not because of the device itself, but because of crowded startlines there is not always that much time for the helmsman to process the extra information... The boatspeed it shows has a lot of delay making it Not so useful for trimming or steering. As a compass it is okay when racing in places with no current. I have a tactick micro just above the prostart, but the prostart does the job just as well.
  12. New to Melges 24

    "called merges yesterday and the lady told me they do not have manuals for their boats" Melges Europe, they have written it. You can find it here: http://www.yachtingropes.nl/downloads/Melges-24-Owners-Manual.pdf
  13. I'm about to install a paddlewheel log into my Melges 24. Following the installation Instructions would leave the flange of the transducer outside the hull surface. Having that flange stick out of the hull is a no go, maybe the effect on speed is negligible, but it would mess up my head... Is there any good resources how to do a racing boat type of log installation? One way would be to cut away the inner skin and the foam core, then place the throughhull on the inner side of the innerskin and laminate it in place and only cut enough of a hole for the transducer wheel in the outer skin. The other way would be to cut away the inner skin and foam, build up the hull thickness as solid laminate, and then drill from the outside and sink it in the flange thickness. Any recommendations how to best do it?
  14. GoPro recommendation

    We have the Hero 5 Session. Picture quality is good, but the battery life could be better. The wifi connection to an ipad cuts out every now and then, so for transferring files it is not really an option.
  15. We have a boat built in 2001 which has been raced hard ever since, and it is competitive (Last regatta we finished 9th of 39 boats). However we have new sails, lines and equipment, newer mast and our crew is good. Initially the boat was not stiff enough, the deck was compressed under the mast, the bulkheads where the shrouds attach had partly detached from the hull and the bulkhead below the companionway had detached from the deck. After fixing these the boat is as stiff as some newer ones. If you are not into glassfibre repairs, then it may cost you a lot. I think we are still very far from being limited by the potential of the hull. The Melges 24 is tricky to trim and drive well and the "penalty" for getting it wrong is larger than most other boats I have sailed.