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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

Alex W

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About Alex W

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    Anarchist

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Interests
    sailboats, bikes, metalworking, diy

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  1. GSI made the CNG stove and water heater. Not all Express 37s had the water heater (there are no signs that my boat did), but it still had the stove. CNG is pretty tough to get now. I had a AC/coolant water heater on my last boat and ripped it out. It took up a lot of space and guaranteed that we had 5 gallons of dead weight. I rarely found a reason to use it. When I cruise I do bring along a plug in kettle. It makes boiling water really fast (when in marinas), which we use for cooking, laundry, dishes, baths for the baby, and other stuff. On anchor we boil water on the stove. The plug in kettle is at least as useful as the hot water heater and a lot simpler and lighter. It obviously won't do for showers though.
  2. Olson 30 vs. Soverel 33

    There is a more cruising oriented boat that was also a Soverel 33. I ran into the same confusion when doing research on them (for a short time I pondered buying the one that Locus used to sail on). This is the old one: http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=3595 That is the father's 33, the one everyone is talking about was designed by his son.
  3. Sailing around the world in a San Juan 24

    Note that his average speed didn't really change when going from the San Juan 24 to this, despite the SJ being a lot more sporty. I think Rimas would also average 1.3-1.5 knots in a tp52.
  4. California Boating Card

    WA State only has the requirement for 15hp and larger engines (so most small outboard powered sailboats don’t require an operator with one). I did the test and class through BoatUS online. It was mostly powerboat safety and basic right of way questions. It took a couple of hours and cost $10. I’m glad that they do it, even if it doesn’t cover much of anything about sailing. It would be good for all operators to have at least seen the basic right of way rules once.
  5. What's the Latest on Firefly Oasis Batteries?

    There is a discharge graph for the Firefly in here: https://www.bruceschwab.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/86/old/firefly-psoc-partial-state-of-charge-sweet-spot-2-2014.pdf At about 25% SOC you are at 2V per cell, or 12V per battery. What the 80% DoD means is that regular 80% depth of discharge doesn't totally tank the battery like it does with other lead acid cells. Compare this Firefly info: With this Lifeline info: So 1000 cycles at 80% DOD for Firefly, 550 cycles for Lifeline. At 60% you get 2350 for Firefly, 800 for Lifeline. So you can routinely draw the Firefly batteries deeply with less concern (obviously shallow discharge is still preferred). The other thing is that the Firefly batteries handle many cycles of partial charges much better than Lifeline batteries do. The deeper allowable discharge lets you get away with carrying less batteries (for many boats two Lifeline G31 batteries make a great house bank, where you'd want 3 Lifeline AGM for similar capacity). The ability to handle PSOC cycling makes them work better when you aren't getting shore power or long idle use with a solar charger. The combination to me makes them worth the 20-30% price premium over Lifeline batteries. On the other hand I understand why some people (especially cruisers) would look at all of this and stick with 4 6V Golf Cart batteries for less money but with the understanding that they might have to replace them more often.
  6. Blue water performance cruiser - do they exist?

    The Express 37 barely has any lockers. There are some under the v berth that we always keep empty and a big shallow one under the quarter berth that has emergency PFDs and a race anchor and rode. There is a small hanging locker across from the head for sheets and regular use PFDs. Otherwise it is just tiny sliding lockers along the gunwales. In comparison the SC50 has a lot of locker/storage space under the galley/dinette floor and in the pilot berths. The lack of lockers is great for racing because it prevents me from leaving tools or other dead weight onboard. For cruising it would be nice to have a little slightly organized space to throw our bags into, rather than constantly moving them out of the way.
  7. Blue water performance cruiser - do they exist?

    I know someone planning on doing this with a Santa Cruz 50. Someone else on here was posting really nice photos of an Olson 40 being fixed up for cruising. It seems like there are a lot of options in old racer/cruisers that can do the job. Since the boats are lighter the loads aren’t too huge. Draft would be an issue in areas though, and of course the boats are usually missing standard cruising gear like heat, a windlass, etc. We do a lot of coastal cruising in our Express 37, but I think I’d want something with more built-in storage for longer trips. Our boat really doesn’t have any (my prior Pearson 28-2 had more) and we live out of suitcases when cruising. The bigger Oyster Lightwave 42 is based on the same design and could be nicer for cruising.
  8. Replacing an alternator belt, Yanmar 1gm10

    The alternator is on pivoting bracket. Loosen both bolts a little bit (you don't need to remove them) and it will swing in towards the center of the engine. It'll be obvious when you are looking at it.
  9. Heavy #1 vs #2

    I have a #2 for the same purpose, but don't think of it as one of our racing sails. Our #2 is cut with a higher clew so that it doesn't need to be skirted, is (tri-radial) dacron to better handle abuse during short handed sailing, and sized at about 135% to give decent performance in light air when short handed (so not enough weight on the rail). I worked with Ballard Sails to have this made specifically for cruising and doublehanded races like Race to the Straits. They even sized it with a slightly short luff so that we could put it on a furler if we ever went in that direction. For racing we jump from the #1 to #3, and most of the time the #2 isn't even on the boat. When cruising I leave the #1 and #3 at home and bring the #2 and #4 (our #4 is a 98% sail just like the #3, but cut with a higher clew and made with heavy dacron instead of being a laminate sail). The drifter is the only sail that comes with us no matter the conditions. My #1 is an AP sail biased towards being a heavy #1 (as you'd expect from something "all purpose"). I could see the value in a light #1 for racing to fill the gap between the drifter and AP #1, but it's not really in the budget (and at some point more sails just get in the way). I've never sailed on a Schock 35, but I think it has a fair amount in common with my Express 37.
  10. Opinions on basic/cheap wind instruments ?

    The wind instrument usually includes enough wire for normal sized boats (up to 40’ or so). I wouldn’t buy an extension unless you’ve done the math and see that the included wire isn’t long enough.
  11. Round The County 2017

    I'm in (who would miss it?) and on J/109 Lodos this year. Hopefully I'll do it again on my boat (re-Quest) next year, this year the 4 day weekend was too much with a new baby. Lodos will be a lot of fun and is mostly a mix of crew from re-Quest and Suspense (J/24). I'm excited that a decent number of j/109s are registered.
  12. Thanks, that is really helpful.
  13. It would be nice if ePaints had a list of yards that are experienced in application. I was expecting that we may have to spend the money to have the painting done indoors. It is time for us to drop the rig and inspect it anyway. I've been putting off this haulout because it is a high cost one. Wess: Thanks, that is useful feedback. I also remember fstbttms says that Trinidad SR (and Micron 66) are the two paints that most race boats use in his region.
  14. I have access to one can of Trinidad SR that is 4 years old, maybe it has better anti-fouling magic than what is made today? I could use that for the top coat. It is still sealed and I assume there is nothing that breaks down just in the can. I was going to price out having the bottom sprayed vs rolled. We don't want a stucco finish, the goal is to be faster after the haulout, not slower. I'd like to find a race boat using the best paint from ePaint to know how it is working for them. Maybe I'll ask my diver.
  15. Heavy #1 vs #2

    It depends on the boat doesn't it? My heavy #1 is a 155% sail cut as big as it can be and holds shape from about 5 knots to 20 knots apparent upwind. We usually switch to the #3 before seeing it's upper limit, and use the drifter (about 130% but very lightly made) in lighter conditions.