Phil S

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About Phil S

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    http://philsmoths.blogspot.com

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    Sydney

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  1. Phil S

    Making upgrades to Bladerider moth

    Rectangular case and timber inserts work fine for me. Forgiving enough and repairable.
  2. Phil S

    JS 4.7 Sailing trials, Downunder

    One design designers are finally catching up Geoff. "Knife through butter" like NS14s since about 40 years ago and narrow low rider moths abouit 25 years ago.
  3. Phil S

    Making upgrades to Bladerider moth

    Brad Gibson did an exceptional job on his BR. I am sure he would have advice for others going that direction. There are a couple of thousand moths out there which competitive sailors consider outdated. There are also a lot of used rigs and foils which often sell at bargain prices. With the big cost of new boats, updating an old boat with better gear is a very viable option if you are happy with mid fleet racing, The rides are worth much more than the boat or the race result.
  4. Phil S

    Making upgrades to Bladerider moth

    If you are handy with tools, good upgrades well worth doing are a bowsprit, pushrod winder (ride height adjuster), telescopic wand and very important, get all the slop and friction out of the pushrods with new pins, bearings and lubricant. Again look for someone's discards, not worth paying full price.
  5. Phil S

    Making upgrades to Bladerider moth

    There are a several obvious things which limit even a very good Bladerider from achieving modern moth performance. 1. The rudder ventilates at a bit over 20kts. Maybe its too vertical but I suspect the section shape is wrong. A Mach2 rudder is a good idea. I am not sure the gantry has the correct pin/pintle angle, its better if it rakes slightly forard at teh bottom, Adjusting the gantry will be a challenge. 2. I have seen a few broken gantries. The molded box gantries dod not seem as strong or as stiff as the fabricated tube gantries. 3. The original sail is way too full, lots of seam shape. It can not be flattenned out enough. But its probably old and brittle so needs replacing anyway. 4. The 50mm mast is soft, but ironically it may work OK with one of the newest big luff round sails. Worth a try but a 40mm mast might be agood option if you can get one at good value. Alternatively find someone upgrading to new gear and discarding a 3 year old sail and mast. 5. The 75mm boom is not strong enough for modern vang loads. A vang strut plus moving the vang anchorage aft might suffice. Bending the boom is a good option too and you can add strength atteh splice if you do it well. 6. The centreboard is thinner and smaller chord that modern boats and so is a bit flexible. The CB case is only slightly bigger, but if you take out the platic bearing in the bottom of the case, you can add a few layers of carbon Unis to the board and stiffen it. Half way down for one layer, and a bit less for two more. You will need to alter the peg at the bottom to match the Mach2 horizontal, you will probably need to trim off a little and add some thickness forward. Make sure you get the angle of attack right, 1.5 to 2.5 deg positive relative the hull bottom at the CB case. The std BR foil takes off early compared to some faster foils. If you sail mostly in light winds the M2.3 high lift might suit you. Its gone out ofvfashion so some are available at reasonable prices. 7. New rigs are lower. You could lower the stump and comp struts. The lower stump will better handle the high vang loads, but the foredeck may not. Adding a couple of layers of 50mm wide unis along the top of foredeck might prevent it collapsing. With a low rig/stump you will need the bent boom for tacking clearance. 8. Keep a good eye on the seam between deck and hull, near the front wing bars. Many BRs have cracked here because the internal join was incomplete. External repairs seem to work if you spot the crack before damage extends too far. Shop carefully, whatever you spend will add little to the resail price of your boat. No matter what you add, it will still be seen as an old bladerider. Go to a moth regatta and show that you are keen, make contact with other moth sailors and they will be more inclined to help you out. Everyone has old gear they no longer use. Just to give you some assurance that what you are proposingis not totally ridiculous, I have done something similar. I am about to start another season at age 68. I no longer spend money hoping to go faster and have sold my mach2. I now have an exceptionally well built 12 year old boat which I have upgraded with my dicsard Mach2 foils and reasonably modern rig. I sail it for the fun of it and at last january's nationals never got lapped. My boat has number 3102 which predates not only Mach2 but also Bladerider.which
  6. Phil S

    Yacht washes up in Boat Harbour (Sydney) -- Man dead

    Not a Contessa
  7. Phil S

    moth mach2.0 upgrade possibilities

    Original BR sails are way too full and original mast way too soft. Sail shape is mostly in seams so bending mast does not flatten it. If the M2 has a reasonable rig you will notice a huge difference. Alternatively if you can get a stiffer mast and more modern sail for very little money the BR will go much better. Then you will break the boom or foredeck from vang loads, so better to upgrade whole boat.
  8. Phil S

    moth mach2.0 upgrade possibilities

    Agree you have Bladerider setup problems. BR foils take off early especially with only 72kg crew. Upwind speed is about a flat sail with minimum twist. Bladeriders start to break foredecks when fitted with modern rigs and enough vang is used. A standard Mach2 will be a big step forward but you will still need to set it up properly so ketting some experienced moth sailor to help with either the BR or M2 is the best option. Go to the closest moth regatta and spend time talking and showing what you have while accepting advice and maybe buying some used gear for upgrades.
  9. Phil S

    moth mach2.0 upgrade possibilities

    What you buy depends a lot on what you want from your moth. Are you going to compete in big championships with some expecation of doing well? Are you going to sail normally in light winds, big winds, big waves etc and how much do you weigh. It also depends on just what kit you got when you purchased the boat. Even at the 2.0 stage there were 2 main foil options, 2 rudder foil options, 2 mast options and several sail options, and that is without any likely upgrades carried out by previous owners. The basic original M2.0 with original kit will not be competitive in a big regatta, but you will get some good racing in the middle of the B fleet if you sail it well. It will handle waves reasonably well as the original main foils are still commonly used on rough days. The original rudder foils were big by today's standards, and the rudder vertical can be a bit short depending on the way the boat is trimmed downwind. An old Mach2 will not gain much value no matter what you spend on it. So its poor economics to buy a lot of new upgrades, you will never get your money back when you sell it. What can be good value is buying gear from people with newer boats who are upgrading to the latest kit. Their discarded gear is quite likely much better than yours and much cheaper than the very latest. Follow MothMart and the Moth Buy and Sell facebook group. And get in touch with some reasonably close mothies and ask about slightly out of date updates. They will also help you choose what options best suit your needs with respect to ambitions, venue, ability and weight.
  10. Phil S

    World Sailing Vote ... Proposal M36

    All smoke and mirrors really. A wishy washy mixture of making sailing establishemnt happy by keeping as many old classes as possible, making IOC happy with magic gender equity quota, and also bringing in kites while retaining boards, all while staying at 10 events. Only the positions of the 49er x 2 and 470 x 1 seem stable and secure. The Nacra got radical changes after the last games, the RSX and Laser are in legal limbo, all the other equipment are all subject to "trials", even though the Finn keeps getting named in context of mixed singlehander? In the process they are needing to invent new types of boat racing which no one has seen before, a bit like the America's Cup boats. All in the interest of attracting TV coverage, which seems to need something that the public have never heard of and which they think is impossible. I am sure there will be some pretty weird options put on the table for the next round of discussions, probably end up like nothing yet imagined here. Hope the pro sailors get enough time to work out what the new games have become and how they will need to addapt. Not sure the general sailing community will stay interested if the events get any more removed from what most of us do. Not sure either that it will keep the IOC happy. But at least WS has left everything vague enough to step in any direction they think IOC will desire. Its a long way from being settled.
  11. The AC 72 definately needed to bear away to take off. We could hear Tom Slingsby called different modes. The needed to drop heading more than just several degrees to take off, then were abke to round up again once flying.
  12. On all foiling boats the ability to start foiling happens earlier (in less wind) when reaching than when working or running, just because the boat can go faster. So when there is just enough wind you need to begin to reach to initiate foiling. Once foiling its relaitively easy to go where you want to, either upwind or downwind. So the skipper needs to make a decision when foiling is possible, bear away from a working lowriding course to a reach and take off after which a new much faster close hauled will be possible. You rarely take off when close hauled unless its pretty windy and flatvwater. Even after a moth foiling tack a bear away is needed to build speed again. My point is that there is no "transition from skimming to foiling while going to windward" I still have concerns that in even moderate conditions, these boats will have difficulty getting enough speed with the hull in the water to take off. There just seems to be too much wetted surface and at low speed insufficient righting moment to power up the rig. The righting moment does not get big until both the hull and windward foil is out of the water. I still see the option of high power tenders towing the boats up to speed pre prep sygnal, then it would simply become a battle to see who can make an opponent crash off the foils.
  13. Have any of you guys ever ridden a tricycle? They are diabolocally unstable. Any roll induces pitch variations. Issue 1: These boats with three foils will be like tricycles. Even with only two in the water they will behave the same as tricycles. Any roll will induce pitch variations and in the case of foiling, pitch variations will mean big issues with height control. Rolling to leeward will increase AoA of all foils and the boat will leap upward, the reverse for a roll to windward. Issue 2: If they are sailed at fixed heal angles like moths, there are pitch implications from steering. Luffing induces a bow down pitch because the tilted rudder adds lift aft. bearing away induces a bow up pitch for the reverse reason. On moths its manageable, on the big boats maybe not. Issue 3: If the boats are sailed healed the transition from healing one way to the other while tacking or gybing, brings out all the problems from Issue 1. They will not have computers and powerful drives to retrim everything automatically during manoevres so I think the sailors will be making sure that the boats will be sailed plumb upright. Separate issue, Windward down thrust from foil: All vertcal forces from foils induce drag. Adding downforce adds drag not only from the windward foil but since the leeward foil has to increase its lift by the equivalent value, its drag is also significantly increased. So the total drag goes up, maybe doubles. Big issues when you are looking for speed. Secondly these boats will be sailed in waves, and having a windward foil close to the surface looks like a huge problem, if it gets close enough to ventilate, all downforce will be lost and the boat will capsize very rapidly. I have a few doubts about the announced design concept but I think the people who dreamed it up know a lot more about it than any of us, they have the modelling, the numbers and have spent a lot more time on it. I think the boats might look and sail a lot like the graphic simulations released months ago.
  14. Phil S

    Olympic classes support in the USA

    Not much different in Australia. Here we have an elete squad of maybe two crew per class (not boards or women's SH asik at present) who get funded by Aust Sailing with boats, transport, and enough money to live on, plus a second group of a few more crews who get maybe transport and minor expenses, and who rely a lot on family and minor sponsors for sustinance. The first group include recent olympians who also have some good sponsors, and seem to live comfortably. You have to be well funded and dedicated to get selected for group 2 and then do well enough to go to group 1. Many aspirants drop out of the classes and some drop out of the sport. Except for masters laser sailing there is very little racing of Olympic classes in Australia. A few pooly attended regattas. Olympic selection is all based on performance in big overseas regattas, so sailing these boats in Australia becomes irrelevant. Measured by medals the system works, and that earns government money for the system. So while the Olympic Sailing machine is well funded, the rest of the Sailing admin organisation, representing the vast majority of sailors is not well funded. Consequently most Aust sailors are ambivolent about Olympic sailing, and the classes involved and in many cases about the Australian Sailing organisation which runs everything.
  15. Fill up the pockets with as many whole or split pool noodles you can. Pack them to minimise the air in the pockets. Noodles strapped on the outside will not work nearly as well and when they come loose cause heaps more problems. Mach 2 or Waszp bladders will fill what ever space is available, but you need to ensure they do not rub against the wing tubes, so they need separate pockets or else you can do as I do and put the bladders in their own bags before insertion into the wing bar pockets. Or get the tramps modified with dual or bigger pockets.