Phil S

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About Phil S

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  1. Phil S

    Seeking repair advice for a moth

    You have got of lightly, there are a lot more things which go wrong with old Bladeriders in that area. That bolt does two jobs. It holds the eye for the tramp lacing but also stops the wing bar from pulling out agaisnt the shoud load vs compression strut load. This load changes with tacking and that induces wear. I think it was normally tapped into the wing tube but the relaively thin carbon wears out easilly. You can make a good repair but removing the wing tube and inserting a something solid inside for the screw to thread into. Solid nylon is a good option, especially with a longer bolt. You could get a piece turned to the correct diameter, glue it in, then drill and tap the bolt hole when the boat is reassembled. Alternatively glue in some thicker carbon inside the tube which can be drilled and tapped. Sorry if that seem all to complicated but fixing things like this is just part of moth sailing, especially with an old boat.
  2. Phil S

    How much wind is this?

    Pictures are rarely a good represention of reality when it comes to wind or its affect on the waves. They do not capture the movement of the waves and the sparkle of spray vanishes. But the boats tell more. None of the crew are hiking fully, none of the sails are feathered or flapping, not even at the top. They are coping quite well without a big effort. So my assessment is its no more than about 12kts. Its a long fetch from that bridge in pic 1 so plenty of room for waves to build. If it was windier than 12 the waves would be much bigger and better defined.
  3. Phil S

    Whats the fastest you've ever been on a dinghy?

    24.1kts on a small scow is very impressive. Must have been flat water and scarey. If moths count I have 30.2kts also in 30kt wind, flat water and trying to get home safely close to DDW. Also scarey. Ended with a gentle square away and roll over as I ran out of water at the sailing club. No way I was going to try to round up. About 6 years ago, but still memorable. Not as brave any more.
  4. Phil S

    How to test if a dinghy will sink safely?

    Unless there are sharp bits of anything on the inside of the tanks. Leaky bags work the same as leaky tanks. Useless.
  5. Phil S

    How to test if a dinghy will sink safely?

    If the boat sinks either fix it or leave it on the bottom of the lake. A boat which sinks is a dangerous thing to own. Someone will get drowned one day. Fix the big holes and then go searching for the small ones. Eventually you can seal a 1/4in plastic tube into a hole and blow air in with your mouth and search for leaks with soapy water. Bubbles are obvious. Unless you get it at least this good you cannot rely on it saving your from drowning.
  6. Phil S

    Car topping a moth

    Used to be very common in Australia. Even with quite small cars. Then the law changed and police started stopping people if the boat and wings extended more than 200mm outside the car width. Few cars are wide enough to make a moth legal now, so very few do it. eally depand son So it really depands on your local laws and how tough they are enforced.
  7. Phil S


    Well done, excellent start to a life of tinkering with boats. Now just go out and sail it. And listen to all the advice you are offered, some will be wrong but most will be wise, like that which you received here from all the old Fireball sailors. Enjoy your cheap boat, sail it as well as you can, improve every outing, and enjoy beating some expensive boats when you get good enough. If you get a champion boat one day, you will be closer to winning a championship due to the time you spend sailing and developing this boat, its all time well spent. Good luck.
  8. Phil S

    Foiling MOTH tuning

    You need to get something or someone else to hold the flap while you move the wand. If you can move the wand more than a few inches without moving the flap, then you have too much slop in the linkages. Then start looking at each part in turn to find the problems. It could be worn pins or bearings or the more serious things I listed earlier. The M3 pins in the deck pushrod sliders wear in the middl because they bear on a threaded part, replace them with some plain shank M3 SS screws. If the holes are worn, drill them 1/8in (3.16mm) and put in 1/8 bolts with nuts. Assuming you have a source of SS screws handy.
  9. Phil S

    Foiling MOTH tuning

    If its a Mach2 bowsprit with lots of hours, the pins at the bow lever wear and you get lots of slop in the linkages. That can shorten your deck pushrod movement. Lots easier to fix too. Check how much the wand moves without the flap moving. You may have other worn parts. M2 shop has all teh spares you need.
  10. Phil S

    Foiling MOTH tuning

    OK you appear to have a linkage problem. Not enough flap movement for control. For newcomers you need lots of movement to get out of bad situations, later you will calm it down and refine where movement happens, especially when you start in waves. You did not say if you have a bowsprit or the original M2.0 bow mechanism. If you have the bow mech you need to wind the adjuster antclockwise so that the pushrod connection goes to the bottom of the thread, this increases pushrod movement for given wand movement. If you have a M2 bowsprit I do not think there is anything which can be out of adjustment, unless its been modified or repaired? Check at least that the little crank at the bow is roughly 90deg to horizontal when the wand is half way down, if its too far either way you reduce pushrod effectiveness. Other bowsprits? I'll need a picture. Check that the "sliders" at both ends of the foredeck pushrod are properly threaded onto the 2.5mm pushrod. You can untread one end and slide it out. the 2.5mm rod slides inside a plastic tube which slides inside a 6mm id stainless tube. Flush it out with water and make sure ts all clean. Reassemble with some locktite and make sure that the screws at each end are horizontal across the boat, also make sure that when the pushrod is at either extreme there is still plenty of slider inside the tube. You should be able to move the pushrod about 20-25mm. While you are in the area, check that the front of the pushrod tube is still securely attached to the little bulkhead at the back of the cutaway for the bow mechanism. I have seen old M2s where this has broken and the boat becomes uncontrollable just like your description. Fixing is not easy. Gluing Stainless is a problem, but mainly you might find that if this joint is broken, the SS tube has been compressed and most likely bent. Its a rolled tube with a seam weld and its tends to split if bent. The best indicator is that your forward compartment leaks heaps of water. Replacing the tube with a 10mm carbon tube is the best option, use a wrapped fibre tube not a pultruded on, pultrusions split too easilly. Not an easy job. A few have managed it by grinding away each end and threading a new tube along the old tube, then pulling out the old one. Most I know have cut a big hole in the very bottom of the boat and worked from there. Logic is that the bottom is easier to patch and less obvious later. I hope this is not your problem. I think I understand that your centreboard bellcrank has a vertical stem and sliding pushrod attachment. The lower on the stem the attachment is the more flap movement you should get. All the way down with the bow winderalso all the way down will probably be excessive and the system will lock up if you dive into a wave. this can break stuff. The M2 system is not strong enoiugh for this so you need to back it off until the flap can come back to horizontal without anything bottoming out. Now if someone else has not done that check there may be damage in your system. You will see if any pushrod ends have been bent. (not the little 5mm dia link between the bow mech and th pushrod slider, its meant to be bent). If you do not have this little solid SS link but the adjustable old version, you need to ensure that its set correctly, it has to be as long as possible without locking the slider against the bulkhead, and the screws need to be horizontal at each end or it will break stuff and lock up. Or you have the pushrod tube damage I covered above. I have heard of rare occasions where the centreboard pushrod tube is also bending. Mostly because the top end has become un attached from the carbon. (There is alot of epoxy foam inside M2 centreboards and this gets soft and soggy and provides no real support, so the tube is really supported only at each end. Its a plastic tube and as long as its not kninked you can reglue the top end trough the bellcrank recess. OK thats some of the bad things which can go wrong. Check all that and you should have the system working smoothly. You need to have enough shockcord tension so the wand snaps down quickly with some authority. The wand needs to be able to come back to the low riding waterline, and down to vertical with a bowsprit or a little forward of vertical with a bow mech. The flap should be in neutral with the flap back at 45 deg. The trailing edge should go up maybe 6mm with the wand forward and maybe down 10mm with the wand right back. You get this differential by adjusting the cam setting in the bow mech, it moves the point in the wand arc where the max pushrod movement occurrs. Next check the angle of attach of both your main foil and the rudder foil relative to the hull. Make a ply template which locks over the foil, holds the flap in neutral and holds you smart phone. Turn boat upside down with foils installed. Download a digital spirit level app to your phone. Zero the level on the bottom of the hull just aft of teh centreboard case. Check each foil, the mainfoil should be between 1 and 2 deg +. You can add thin plastic shims in the foil socket for small adjustments. (the tree top pin options at deck level change the AoA by a half degree, but everyone I know only ever uses the front one which is the min available) The rudder foil should be at 0 with the tiller winder in mid range. You can also shim the rudder or you can adjust the gantry. Look at the M2 site for gantry adjustment method. Look at Damic Design site for template and AoA check technique. Sorry I do not have photos, I sold my M2 a few years back, but I hope my old memory is reliable. Maybe I will have prompted some current M2 owners/repairers/maintainers to add or correct something. Good luck, the moth is a very complex animal, it requres care and attention to detail, you need to enjoy the tinkering, but the rewards when you get it right will be worth all the effort. Phil Stevo.
  11. Phil S

    And Now...for something TOTALLY New!

    And the NS14s 40 years ago were 75kg for the hull (and still are). That 165lb or 65lb lighter than the new M15. Thats in glass and foam, no carbon or kevlar allowed. They last for ever too, most still sailing. Why does the US build so much weight into boats?
  12. Phil S

    I.C. Down wind question

    What Steve says is right about about the boat but handicap racing is all about how well you sail the boat compared to its potential, and also how fast you and your boat sail compared to how fast the handicapper thinks you might, all compared to the same criteria for everyone else in the fleet. Summary: Sail well and you get a ticket in the handicap lottery. Sail often to let the handicapper get the best assessment of your potential. It also helps to improve your own sailing performance.
  13. Phil S

    best new foiler for beginner? Good idea, good value.
  14. Phil S

    Foiling Technique Anarchy

    There are different options. Luka and Dave from StG are not slow and they set their boats up with very little foil angle relative to the hull. So for take off and light upwind sailing they use a lot of flap to get higher camber and an effective angle of attack. Even in more wind when the boat is going fast upwind they might still have some down flap. So at the top mark they reduce rudder lift and raise the bow. This allows the wand to drop further, raising the flap, and so the foil has less effective camber and less drag. Dave sails with no bowsprit and a very vertical wand, and lots of forward flick to pull the boat down when needed. The opposite to AMAC, different set up, different philosophy but still effective. The Exocet system is very effective but I have not studied enough of them to comment on its usage.
  15. Phil S

    Foiling Technique Anarchy

    Are you sure thats what he said. The term "bow down" means sail further off the wind in all race boats. Only foilers literally have the option of vertically lowering the bow and reducing angle of attack on the main foil. I suspect Tom meant sailing wider angles upwind. But lowering the bow with slightly more rudder foil lift will reduce the angle of attach of the main foil. As you go faster without changing settings the foil provide more lift than teh mass of the boat and the boat wil rise. Normally the wand will rop a little and raise the flap until lift is reduced and equilibrium achieved. At some point the flap will be raised above optimum, causing excess drag, at which point it is better to sail with the foil at lower AoA and slightly more flap. Very few moths have the facility to tilt the centreboard and change the angle of attack relative to the hull, so the normal way to adjust it is to change the rudder lift. For boats set up with generous AoA set up for example early take off in lighter winds, then tilting the bow down when going faster downwind is normal practice. AMAC is notorious for how much bow down he uses.