Phil S

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About Phil S

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  1. Phil S

    moth mach2.0 upgrade possibilities

    Original BR sails are way too full and original mast way too soft. Sail shape is mostly in seams so bending mast does not flatten it. If the M2 has a reasonable rig you will notice a huge difference. Alternatively if you can get a stiffer mast and more modern sail for very little money the BR will go much better. Then you will break the boom or foredeck from vang loads, so better to upgrade whole boat.
  2. Phil S

    moth mach2.0 upgrade possibilities

    Agree you have Bladerider setup problems. BR foils take off early especially with only 72kg crew. Upwind speed is about a flat sail with minimum twist. Bladeriders start to break foredecks when fitted with modern rigs and enough vang is used. A standard Mach2 will be a big step forward but you will still need to set it up properly so ketting some experienced moth sailor to help with either the BR or M2 is the best option. Go to the closest moth regatta and spend time talking and showing what you have while accepting advice and maybe buying some used gear for upgrades.
  3. Phil S

    moth mach2.0 upgrade possibilities

    What you buy depends a lot on what you want from your moth. Are you going to compete in big championships with some expecation of doing well? Are you going to sail normally in light winds, big winds, big waves etc and how much do you weigh. It also depends on just what kit you got when you purchased the boat. Even at the 2.0 stage there were 2 main foil options, 2 rudder foil options, 2 mast options and several sail options, and that is without any likely upgrades carried out by previous owners. The basic original M2.0 with original kit will not be competitive in a big regatta, but you will get some good racing in the middle of the B fleet if you sail it well. It will handle waves reasonably well as the original main foils are still commonly used on rough days. The original rudder foils were big by today's standards, and the rudder vertical can be a bit short depending on the way the boat is trimmed downwind. An old Mach2 will not gain much value no matter what you spend on it. So its poor economics to buy a lot of new upgrades, you will never get your money back when you sell it. What can be good value is buying gear from people with newer boats who are upgrading to the latest kit. Their discarded gear is quite likely much better than yours and much cheaper than the very latest. Follow MothMart and the Moth Buy and Sell facebook group. And get in touch with some reasonably close mothies and ask about slightly out of date updates. They will also help you choose what options best suit your needs with respect to ambitions, venue, ability and weight.
  4. Phil S

    World Sailing Vote ... Proposal M36

    All smoke and mirrors really. A wishy washy mixture of making sailing establishemnt happy by keeping as many old classes as possible, making IOC happy with magic gender equity quota, and also bringing in kites while retaining boards, all while staying at 10 events. Only the positions of the 49er x 2 and 470 x 1 seem stable and secure. The Nacra got radical changes after the last games, the RSX and Laser are in legal limbo, all the other equipment are all subject to "trials", even though the Finn keeps getting named in context of mixed singlehander? In the process they are needing to invent new types of boat racing which no one has seen before, a bit like the America's Cup boats. All in the interest of attracting TV coverage, which seems to need something that the public have never heard of and which they think is impossible. I am sure there will be some pretty weird options put on the table for the next round of discussions, probably end up like nothing yet imagined here. Hope the pro sailors get enough time to work out what the new games have become and how they will need to addapt. Not sure the general sailing community will stay interested if the events get any more removed from what most of us do. Not sure either that it will keep the IOC happy. But at least WS has left everything vague enough to step in any direction they think IOC will desire. Its a long way from being settled.
  5. The AC 72 definately needed to bear away to take off. We could hear Tom Slingsby called different modes. The needed to drop heading more than just several degrees to take off, then were abke to round up again once flying.
  6. On all foiling boats the ability to start foiling happens earlier (in less wind) when reaching than when working or running, just because the boat can go faster. So when there is just enough wind you need to begin to reach to initiate foiling. Once foiling its relaitively easy to go where you want to, either upwind or downwind. So the skipper needs to make a decision when foiling is possible, bear away from a working lowriding course to a reach and take off after which a new much faster close hauled will be possible. You rarely take off when close hauled unless its pretty windy and flatvwater. Even after a moth foiling tack a bear away is needed to build speed again. My point is that there is no "transition from skimming to foiling while going to windward" I still have concerns that in even moderate conditions, these boats will have difficulty getting enough speed with the hull in the water to take off. There just seems to be too much wetted surface and at low speed insufficient righting moment to power up the rig. The righting moment does not get big until both the hull and windward foil is out of the water. I still see the option of high power tenders towing the boats up to speed pre prep sygnal, then it would simply become a battle to see who can make an opponent crash off the foils.
  7. Have any of you guys ever ridden a tricycle? They are diabolocally unstable. Any roll induces pitch variations. Issue 1: These boats with three foils will be like tricycles. Even with only two in the water they will behave the same as tricycles. Any roll will induce pitch variations and in the case of foiling, pitch variations will mean big issues with height control. Rolling to leeward will increase AoA of all foils and the boat will leap upward, the reverse for a roll to windward. Issue 2: If they are sailed at fixed heal angles like moths, there are pitch implications from steering. Luffing induces a bow down pitch because the tilted rudder adds lift aft. bearing away induces a bow up pitch for the reverse reason. On moths its manageable, on the big boats maybe not. Issue 3: If the boats are sailed healed the transition from healing one way to the other while tacking or gybing, brings out all the problems from Issue 1. They will not have computers and powerful drives to retrim everything automatically during manoevres so I think the sailors will be making sure that the boats will be sailed plumb upright. Separate issue, Windward down thrust from foil: All vertcal forces from foils induce drag. Adding downforce adds drag not only from the windward foil but since the leeward foil has to increase its lift by the equivalent value, its drag is also significantly increased. So the total drag goes up, maybe doubles. Big issues when you are looking for speed. Secondly these boats will be sailed in waves, and having a windward foil close to the surface looks like a huge problem, if it gets close enough to ventilate, all downforce will be lost and the boat will capsize very rapidly. I have a few doubts about the announced design concept but I think the people who dreamed it up know a lot more about it than any of us, they have the modelling, the numbers and have spent a lot more time on it. I think the boats might look and sail a lot like the graphic simulations released months ago.
  8. Phil S

    Olympic classes support in the USA

    Not much different in Australia. Here we have an elete squad of maybe two crew per class (not boards or women's SH asik at present) who get funded by Aust Sailing with boats, transport, and enough money to live on, plus a second group of a few more crews who get maybe transport and minor expenses, and who rely a lot on family and minor sponsors for sustinance. The first group include recent olympians who also have some good sponsors, and seem to live comfortably. You have to be well funded and dedicated to get selected for group 2 and then do well enough to go to group 1. Many aspirants drop out of the classes and some drop out of the sport. Except for masters laser sailing there is very little racing of Olympic classes in Australia. A few pooly attended regattas. Olympic selection is all based on performance in big overseas regattas, so sailing these boats in Australia becomes irrelevant. Measured by medals the system works, and that earns government money for the system. So while the Olympic Sailing machine is well funded, the rest of the Sailing admin organisation, representing the vast majority of sailors is not well funded. Consequently most Aust sailors are ambivolent about Olympic sailing, and the classes involved and in many cases about the Australian Sailing organisation which runs everything.
  9. Fill up the pockets with as many whole or split pool noodles you can. Pack them to minimise the air in the pockets. Noodles strapped on the outside will not work nearly as well and when they come loose cause heaps more problems. Mach 2 or Waszp bladders will fill what ever space is available, but you need to ensure they do not rub against the wing tubes, so they need separate pockets or else you can do as I do and put the bladders in their own bags before insertion into the wing bar pockets. Or get the tramps modified with dual or bigger pockets.
  10. Mast: I have the rigging just loose enough to unshackle without difficulty. Not loose enough to notice while sailing. No need for boat breaker tackle and the rig always has the same rake, without checking. I shackle on one shroud and the forestay, lift the rig onto the pin then attach the other shroud. Reverse when lowering. Much easier than attaching/detaching the forestay first as you can let the rig lean back with the wind against the forestay. Very easy with Mach2 pins, only slightly more hassle with shackles. I use screw shackles with a split ring permanently through the grip end. No need for shackle key as you can get enough grip with the ring.
  11. One pool noodle a side is inadequate, one and a half is minimum for early days. Three is too many if you are light, the boat will turtle too easilly. Bladders are better becasue they fill the space in the tramp and no water gets trapped. Your experience with water in the tramp pockets is common with beginners. Water in one wing, slowly drains then the other wing imerses and the effect is reversed. Dacon tramps are common and will be ok once you get the water out of the pockets. Climb over the wing at balance point in anything under 15kts. Once you eliminate the water traps this will be a lot easier. Keep the vang on. You need instant power as you sheet on to stop the windward flop. Use the sheet for balance, move the sheet 50 times as much as the tiller. Moths wear out ratchet blocks because the sheet never stops moving. Once its windier and you are doing water starts, tie the sheet stopper knot reasonably short. The boat must tend to round up and feather when you are climbing on. If the knot allows the sheet out too far, the boat will bear away as you climb on (with windward heal) and nose dive. Its much easier if the sail causes the boat to feather at about 60deg to the wind, you get time to untangle things, grab the sheet and tiller, take some deep breaths and start again. Do not give up, as soon as the moth starts to foil and everything goes quiet, you will be hooked.
  12. Phil S

    Moth decksweeper and lowered mast stumps

    Ewan, Fits with what we have observed about drag. But rig height seems inportant in lighter winds when its stronger and more useful up higher, especially downwind. Inebriated, James has done what looks right to seal the deck sweeper, but the full carbon wings look heavy to me. Radial track vang/kicker solves a lot of vang load/angle issues but the track would get in the way of my feet and toestraps when hiking.
  13. Phil S

    Moth decksweeper and lowered mast stumps

    Nick, I have tried two short rigs, both on masts 250 shorter. One a few years back was a small area storm rig with conventional foot. An MSL10 with 250 cut off the bottom. It was fast upwind in over 20kts but needed more than 25 to go fast downwind. I gave the sail to a light weight senior mothie friend. The second has a pocket around the boom and vang, measures full size and like you I am amazed how quiet it is. But again I seem to lack pace downwind although I have not tried it in over 20kts yet. I am thinking it might suit the Perth WC if the Doctor attends. The foot is limited by needing to fit inside a 5.185m radius from the top of the luff. Any sail like extra which moves when the sail is trimmed has to be part of the sail, it can not be a separate item under the one sail rule. Some UK boats are fitting a fixed carbon shell across the deck to seal the foot. I agree a purpose designed hull can do it better, I think the Lennon ThinAir was going that way, but its been a long wait. There are some interesting new designs coming along this year, Moth aesthetics could be about to change.
  14. Phil S

    Yet another foiler

    This was Jim French's Skeeta, built for the 2015 Sorrento Moth worlds, where it had dual foils, modified for the 2016 Perth Nationals with present configuration. It still got lapped. Its gone to Italy to join the offerings of the foiling scow builder there. New rig here, looks like they will market it as a new class not a moth. No idea where it will be built, but not likely to be cheap. Will be more stable than a WAZP when floating but much the same when foiling. It will never go fast with that full sail.
  15. Phil S

    Moth decksweeper and lowered mast stumps

    The decksweeper rig is not 5.7m on the luff. The new rule says it can be no longer than 5.185m on the floor, which might stretch to 5.4 under extreme luff tension, but not likely to be more.