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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

splashgordon

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About splashgordon

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  1. Check the bearings. The idlers use sealed ball bearings and if the cables suddenly become slightly slack it's because the bearings have packed up. Once you tension the cables (we replaced ours with Spectra- perfect solution) you end up with bearing races grinding on each other. The fix is quite easy- PM me and I'll show you some pics of my fix- pickle the idlers in HCl to clean, and replace the bearings and you're golden for the next few years!
  2. I'd go for analogue resistive senders- simple and stoopid-proof. They need adequate space above for installation purposes, and they are very simple. The N2k converter option is relatively cheap and IMHO they give very adequate interfacing. I've been acquainted with Wema, Vetus and BEP and a few others, and I have a negative opinion of accoustic units on moving boats generally, and monohulls specifically because the liquid surface is always moving. When a level sample is taken the depth of the medium varies, and in some cases the tank architecture can play havoc with reflected signals.
  3. Ain't Vetus. Was likely HYE or something oriental if it's a Saffer boat. It's likely Seaworld from Taiwan, because the sockets look like Goïot which were supplied as standard with the stanchions by one of our local suppliers when the boats were made this side.
  4. Next time I'm out I'll snap a pic of our Emergency Cuppa Fiddles . We lashed the kettle onto the trivet with a loop of Spectra D12 going right round the stove cos we got the shits with retrieving the kettle from the gaping chasm behind the stove. A simple loop through the bale on top of the kettle, made off with a truckers hitch on the trivet outboard and the stove handle inboard fixed our tea craving after an unknown student/crew removed the potholders to the store shed!
  5. ZF changed their clutch bobbin construction fairly recently to obviate the fluid passages. The friction surfaces went from being kinda corrugated or panelled like a sort of conical hone to being smooth like a pencil point, and they specified the change to 15W-40.
  6. Clean up the o-ring seat, and then check how much oil you lose by covering the suspicious area with paper towel. You might be surprised! O-rings do fossilise over time, so here's hoping you get it beat!
  7. As an alternative- what about using spinaker cleats like they have on 505's and Fireballs, amongst others? I'm also against having extra loose gadgets which you have to rely on, but for tweaky strings like outhauls and cunninghams and such, the hassle factor of having to grab the strings with an expensive bit of precision gear is outweighed by the convenience of pumping the line to give it a tweak. I completely sympathise with your predicament, and I see why you're trying to adapt your current situation to fit in with your current boat. Disabled drivers have controls adapted for their requirements, so I say you should think outside the box. Embrace the fact that you're sailing against the odds, but rise above the restrictions of conventional thinking! The pump cleats were the best example I could think of, but what about other solutions? Extra-fat tiller extensions, perhaps? Endless sheets with fat middles like bell-rope baggywrinkle like they have in church belfries? Highfield levers to replace grunty cascades? (I'm seeing outhauls getting dumped at the top mark with a clang as the lever gets tripped, and coming in with a clunk on the beat!) Work with me here guys- maybe fat gloves help for now, but what about folk with more extreme conditions? If they could get sailing like we can, who knows where things could lead?
  8. About 5 years ago a buddy of mine, who specialises in (in no particular order) stills photos of modelling and fashion shows; regattas, and offshore sailing events, decided to try stuffing the HDMI feed from one of his cameras into a wireless modem, with amazing results. Here we have a totally useless telecoms infrastructure (I can only get a 4mb line at home!!!), and a foreign company rolled out fibre-optic comms, as well as microwave links... Welcome to the First World... With this package they offered a home modem/router/phone handset in one device, which is what he used. Anyway, from 3nm offshore he managed to stream back to a laptop in the club and ran coverage of the racing to a big screen back in the harbour, so the veranda-vikings could reminisce about how different sailing is now from when they last set foot on a boat in the 1980's! It's a really neat idea, but to do an even justice I think one needs some sort of buffering to settle timing differences, with a mixer switching between, say, a feed from the committee boat and, say, a feed from a RIB galooting round the course. Let us have your thoughts, because I'm investigating FPV transmitter/receiver options with this idea in mind for streaming 720p back to a mixer which would sync about a second behind real-time.
  9. Ratchet-binders and some tarpaulin material as a parbuckle. Often discussed this with advanced sailing students; bilge pumps are pretty much useless for a hull breach. I know PU foam uses moisture to cure, but does it go off in a wet environment?
  10. WD-40 works a treat, and I've also started using Corrosion-Block samples for exactly the same purpose. (No specific product endorsement implied!) A drop or a squirt on the gooey grease makes a world of difference, and in our heat and weather here we can get to the end of a season on a service with just a quick mid-term touch-up of oily stuff.