Russell Brown

I've had a VHB failure too, on a window with a slight curvature. Mine were clamped with a vacuum bag for 24 hours with proper surfaces and prep. It's not happy with standing loads. No-one ever mentions the clean-up issues with VHB tape either.

Just got to check out a cool older ply/epoxy race boat last night. It's a 27 footer that looks a lot like a Moore 24. Built in the 80's. The construction is a bit rough and ready, but inside it looks like new. No dark spots in the bilge or anywhere else I could see. Really quick apparently. it's getting a cockpitectomy for the Pac cup.

I'd be interested in the weight, but it seems like at that price, one could put up with a bit of extra weight.

Thanks for sharing that Alex. I never knew about them. What did you do to bulk out the 1.25" shafts for the oarlocks?

If on anchor or a mooring, filling the forward sections with water is the most sensible approach I have heard of. It reduces windage on the front of the boat, loads it down to reduce the possibility of capsize, and would make the boat weathervane better.

I'd rather you went away. I don't see the benefit to you of an ongoing public, lie-strewn war and it's embarrassing to me. Without you, Rob I wouldn't get the hairy eyeball on these forums. I'm not selling proas and I don't lie. I'm also generally helpful on the forums and I see them as a great tool. You see them as a way to conquer the world with proas. Everything that you post, whether its about your boats or mine is meant to drive sales of plans of your boats. Or maybe its just some weird vindictive urge you have. My one page of thoughts on Harryproas should be posted somewhere else. I just don't know where.

I'd go on a Hobie!

Pretty sure that those units were not working so hot at the end. Maybe someone knows more than I do, but pushing a little boat is different than pushing a big one. Seems like I saw a new style of unit advertised in Small Craft Adviser magazine that was designed for bigger boats. Maybe an e-mail to them would produce something.

Wow! I'm glad I know that piece of history. What a weird world of politics. Seems like that could have been handled more equitably.

Maybe I don't understand he term "tandem anchoring". Both anchor lines were led to the bow and the boat was generally between the anchors. Panope just did a video, as I now see, but I haven't watched it yet. Panope has led me to a new world of anchoring... and it's a lot easier on my back.

Sorry for the delay. Happy to only have internet in the morning and evening. I have always had really light multihulls and they really take off when the anchor drags. I saw my Danforth planing on the surface behind the boat once. The Northill has worked flawlessly for me for decades, but you can't swing on a Northill because it can foul, so a second anchor is necessary. I'd often let out all the line on the Northill and toss a Danforth and then pull the boat between the anchors before setting them and paying out slack. Sometimes the pull would be on both, but most often one or the other. The idea that the pull direction won't change drastically and the anchors wouldn't be forced to re-set helped me sleep. I survived a blow once that wrecked many boats by placing all 3 of my anchors toward the wind and (big) waves and swimming out any single anchor that started to drag. It was bad holding ground.

Funny, until lately I've been tandem anchoring most of my life and have definitely been through lots of blows.

The Mantus has been great from PT to Alaska and lots of other places. The Viking tests even better (by Steve Goodwin) and I used a borrowed one and liked it.

I didn't have much luck with the Fortress in the San Juan's.

Lots of crazy pedal drives here: https://gougeon32.blogspot.com/2018/08/pedal-drives-on-2018-r2ak-boats.html The one on Ptarmigan is my fave and it worked well. Also, there's a thread on pedal power at Boat Design Forums that's 142 pages long. Might take a while, but there are some nuggets in there.