Captain Jack Sparrow

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About Captain Jack Sparrow

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    Somewhere in the Caribbean Sea

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  1. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Full Main + HW Jib?

    Reefing at the appropriate time would be treating the sails more carefully than trying to keep it up through the wind range and having it constantly luffing and refilling. I don't think you'll stretch the material you said the sail was made out of, but you can certainly damage/delaminate it if its being cycled through loading/unloading phases (luffing). What kind of boat is it? As it was mentioned upthread, it'll be faster to have a balanced, lower center of effort. Just because your boat continues to go upwind with the rail underwater doesn't mean its the fastest way. (I realize there are certain types of boats that do like a fair amount of heel).
  2. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Full Main + HW Jib?

    The shape won't hold very well if you are constantly flogging the full sail because you have too much area up for the given conditions...As others have said, if it has reef points, it was designed/engineered so the loads from reefing do not damage the sail. Your mainsail with a single reef in 22+ is going to have quite a bit less load on it compared to the full main in those conditions.
  3. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Suggestions for a Maine/RI Hurricane Hole

    Quahog Bay, in Harpswell, Maine is one of the best protected anchorages in the state. There's a first-class boatyard located on it as well- Great Island Boat Yard. Not a lot of boats in the bay other than over by the boatyard.
  4. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Gulf of maine scuttlebut

    Is there anything stirring with the GMORA season right around the corner?
  5. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Buying a J/80...

    Well as of a few days ago I am the new owner of USA 91. Should be an adventure.
  6. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Tuning app

    I'd second the spreadsheet idea, and just keep it basic for new crew. You have the ability to get a ton of data, but how much of it is really going to be useful to a new crew on board? Sea conditions/tide and such are good information to have, but just adding a layer of complexity to something that is relatively simple. You have your base rig settings, and then tune the rig for windspeed, and adjust halyard tension and sheet leads for windspeed and the need for power/depower or pointing ability. You have the different "gears", if you will, for rig settings, and then you just need to learn (and have your crew learn) when to utilize the different gears. I think getting all the information you possibly can right now as you learn is a good idea, but then condense it into something that is helpful and easy to read/utilize. There is raw data, and then theres usable data. You want to be focusing on sailing the boat, not deciphering a bunch of numbers.
  7. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Rad new Ran Fast40 for Niklas Zennstrom

    Thats aggressive. I feel like I read something in Seahorse about them being a wet ride below because of all the through deck line openings. I think there was a quote about this boat in one of the articles talking about the bilge pump arrangement being a crucial development since it gets used so much. This class is producing some seriously cool designs. How many events do they have this year? Will it eventually rival the TP52 circuit?
  8. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Rad new Ran Fast40 for Niklas Zennstrom

    Why would it be less able to self right than a similar Fast 40+ with a conventional bow and flat deck? Seems to be that in the (very) unlikely event of it becoming inverted with the keel still attached, that it would immediately lean one way or the other due to the deck not being a flat surface and having those "hiking surfaces/chines". There is less static form stability than a conventional inverted hull/deck shape. Do any of these 40'ers do anything besides day races? I've heard they're really wet (as in they leak), seems like doing anything other than buoy and maybe short coastal would be a bad idea.
  9. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Rad new Ran Fast40 for Niklas Zennstrom

    Yeah the one and only design feature of that boat that makes sense...
  10. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Rad new Ran Fast40 for Niklas Zennstrom

    That's what the bowman is for.
  11. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Rad new Ran Fast40 for Niklas Zennstrom

    I'd bet that aft in the cockpit the lifelines (and the crew) will be able to get out to max beam. I don't think any of these boats would sacrifice righting moment to that degree. Then again, I could be wrong.
  12. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Taping rigging to prevent snags on cotter pins

    If the turnbuckles are close together I actually prefer to lash the bodies (assuming open turnbuckles) together, even if they aren't being adjusted every week. Then all that needs to be taped is at the base where there is a rigging pin and cotter pin/rig to make the connection to the chainplates. Less tape is definitely better. I have found that untaped rings are a risk, but if they are taped over than not a problem. As either rings or pins would need to be taped, I prefer the rings that don't (usually) require any tools to deal with them.
  13. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Taping rigging to prevent snags on cotter pins

    There is some "rig tape" that looks identical to electrical tape and feels the same. It doesn't dry out and fall off the rig a month into the season though, which regular electrical tape will do.The stuff that works for me costs about $8.00 a roll at my local marine store. I think its made by 3M. The self-amalgating stuff is really good too. Also don't be one of those people who wraps the entire turnbuckle in tape. Just do where the cotter pin(s) is/are. I've seen many rigs where people have gotten enthusiastic about their application of tape and have wrapped up over the swage fittings and onto the actual wire stay. Every time thats happened it's been wet under the tape at the swage fitting and rust streaks everywhere. Easy way to ruin rigging.
  14. Captain Jack Sparrow

    Vacuum Bagging wet core area to pull moisture out?

    I've got the materials and equipment, no worries. I think I could set it up with minimal effort. I just didn't know if any significant migration of moisture under vacuum happens through balsa in the span of a few days. It sounds like it make sense to do just as additional insurance.
  15. May be doing a balsa core deck repair in the near future. I figured I would cut the top skin off, rip all the wet core out in every direction until I come across dry core, and be good to go. It was suggested to me to hook it up to a vacuum bag for a few days or whatever in order to pull any additional moisture out of the surrounding core. Is that really necessary? I can see why the concept would seem like a good idea, but if I get to dry core material on all edges, it shouldn't really be pulling much moisture out if any, I have access to the equipment to do it and am not at all opposed to doing this step. Just wondering if other people who have done core repair jobs think if it is worth it to do.