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      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

CriticalPath

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About CriticalPath

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  • Birthday 02/23/1962

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    TO

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  1. Running Backstays Bungee Set-up

    I could be worth considering the multi-purchase option. A quick disconnect for the coarse tune could make this workable. Thanks!
  2. Running Backstays Bungee Set-up

    Hiya old school, the A27' system looks slick but it'd leave over 60' of runner tail lying along the side deck when not deployed plus the double length of bungee cord all the time. I think that'd create too much clutter for my cruiser/racer application. Thanks for the explanation Alex. So when de-rigging you pull the checks out of the floating rings and move them up to the mast? That' wouldn't be a benefit to me since it'd take a ridiculously large ring to fit over the fiddle blocks in my setup. Alex's system with Dash's setup looks like the current front-runner... Cheers!
  3. Running Backstays Bungee Set-up

    Thanks all, a few more questions/comments: 2Savage: You've described my original idea but it's been suggested by a few folks around the bar that system works well for runners that terminate near the centerline, but not so much from the aft corners. Kack and JMOD: I've seen lotsa bungee systems led forward around the mast on bigger boats, but why isn't it popular on smaller boats? And JMOD's comments that they needed a floater to keep it clear kinda defeats the purpose. Much of my racing's doublehanded so we're looking for something that'll tend itself with minimal attention or likelihood of snafus. Another conundrum with leading the runner forward is I'll need a mile of runner tail at 4:1 purchase! Alex & Dash: I like this setup, especially being able to control the tension at deck level. Alex, is there a benefit to terminating at a floating ring rather than a fixed point at the upper block like Dash does? Fleetwood: Thanks but I'm looking for something more permanent i.e. ready for use without having to rig it up each time. Kenny: I'm not worried about fastening shock cord to line. My question should've been is there a best practice for terminating or tying a loop in the end of a piece of shock cord i.e. to a becket? Cheers!
  4. Running Backstays Bungee Set-up

    The fractional rig on our Aloha 30 has dimensions similar to the J/30 with less spreader sweep. Minimizing forestay sag in breezy conditions was an issue so we added running backstays as a tuning device - they aren’t needed to keep the mast standing. The runners are dyneema leading to an old-school 4:1 purchase using fiddle blocks. The tail leads to the windward primary winch but we haven’t found that necessary – man-power seems enough to set the rig. The lower runner blocks are shackled to the toe rail at the transom corners, and I’ve been storing them forward at the shroud chainplates when not in use. I’d prefer a permanent setup so they’re always rigged and ready to go but need a way to keep the leeward runner clear when maneuvering. The boom on the Aloha reaches within 6” of the backstay so there isn’t much space for clearance when jibing. I’m thinking of a bungee system to pull the slack runner up and away from the boom end. I know there are lots of setups in use with bungee cord running from the upper block to the backstay split, but then what? There’ll be some trial and error to finesse the final setup in the Spring, but it’d be nice if the starting point is something workable without reinventing the wheel. It’s snowy wintertime in Toronto so not like I can walk the docks to get ideas. Possible set-ups: Bungee cord from one upper runner block up through a small block at the backstay split then down to the upper runner block on the other side of the boat. This seems elegantly simple but will it be effective? Something like above but with additional bungee purchase? Or should I run each bungee individually, from the runner up to the backstay split, then down to the backstay chainplate? This’d provide enough length and easy access to adjust the stretch easily. Oh yeah, one more question – what’s the best way to do terminations on the bungees? Knots in shock cord can be unreliable… Cheers!
  5. "Elitism"

    I suspect Svanen is painting with a narrow brush limited to his own local experience and may not realize the landscape is very different elsewhere, in particular up and down the east and west US seaboards. Not sure what the impact is on other continents... In the Greater Toronto area, there are 30+ yacht clubs, but there's only one I can think of that owns the land they sit on (Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club). All others occupy sites owned and leased from assorted government entities. Cheers!
  6. Eight Bells - Brian Chapman

    Sad day in the local sailing community that Brian contributed so much towards...
  7. Toronto boat show 2018

    "Dave's not here, man." Very few sailboats but its been a very long time since that was the draw of the TO show. Saw lots of friends exhibiting and in the aisles both days, attended a meeting Saturday, and got some "us" time since my wife was down working our club booth on Sunday. Talked to some industry and distributor reps about new Harken and Gill kit, refrig, and an interested bit of snorkelling gear we might try out in Antigua next month (https://mintyssurfshop.ca/products/neopine-180-degree-full-face-snorkel-mask-with-gopro-attachment). It's been nearly 20 years since I attended a PHRF-LO AGM - well-intended volunteers trying to do the right thing, proposals to further complicate and add more layers of semi-scientific logic to an observational tool (argh), handicappers professing why their club's situation's unique and shouldn't have to operate by the same rules, and the odd self-promotion by volunteers and professionals alike. Yup, just like the old days! Saw a new record for a pontoon boat price - there's one at the north end of the Mariners Marketplace listed at $122,9k! Garhauer's standard display of attractively-displayed overweight and somewhat reasonably priced tractor hardware was at or near where it's been for several years, and about where they deserve to be based on the effort they make to present and sell themselves as a flea market booth. Yeah, I know, there's lots of good customer service stories with Garhauer, but when the owner can't hear or understand questions and won't even talk about his stuff I just don't get it... Cheers!
  8. C&C 27MkV

    What he said...
  9. Rig replacement on G&S 30

    HOLD THE PHONE! Google "G&S 30 Slingshot" and some old Lake Michigan race results show up - Slingshot's sail number's 16976 and her PHRF's 159. That sounds more like the 1980ish 1/2 ton IOR design (the first of three G&S 30s originally owned by the Sissons named Zoo was this style). Several were built in epoxy wood at Shea, Berwick, and other WEST shops, there's one for sale at http://www.sailingtexas.com/sgs30100.html. I even found a pic of the original Zoo: So lautenan, is this what your boat looks like? I seem to recall the extreme frac rigs on these IOR boats were seriously noodly and technical with multiple spreaders, jumpers, runners, and checks - finding a suitable replacement may not be simple... Cheers!
  10. Rig replacement on G&S 30

    Zoo2 was a 1990ish G&S MORC design. If I recall correctly, I think it won the Internationals in Duluth that year... The boat's been in Toronto for many years, typical MORC maxi 30 rig for that era - masthead, small foretriangle, triple spreaders, and checkstays. Cheers!
  11. C&C 27MkV

    C&C wasn't in the one design business and in the 70's a build bill of lading was probably just a suggestion unless it was a custom or semi-custom race build - lotsa overbuilt and oversized details on the boat. It was still an era when one added more material whenever in doubt... At least that's my story and I'm sticking with it!
  12. C&C 27MkV

    Edit...
  13. Toronto boat show 2018

    Geeze lads, the guy just ain't worth it... I`m still waiting to visit my buddy Carson on the island one day and see if his dockmate`s around - that`d be a funny scenario! So yeah, the show`s morphed into a shadow of what it once was but I`ve been going for 45 years and I`m not about to stop now. It is a great time to catch up with folks I`ve worked with and sailed against over the years, and where else can you cover half the boat`s wish list in one place? Not that I`m necessarily buying on the show floor, but at least I can see it, touch it, and talk to someone sorta knowledgable before making an educated decision. Cheers, looking forward to seeing many old friends!
  14. Wavelength 24

    Owned 1983 #43 Feisty in the late 80s - early 90s. Great boat in light air, lotsa fun MORC and PHRF racing with similar size and speed boats back then. We never laid ours down like the infamous pic above, but I never understood the crew standing on the mast either. Boat was a handful in a breeze - couldn't keep her powered up going uphill, and had challenges keeping the boat under the rig going down. On the other hand, it was a long time ago, I was young, and I've learned a lot about going fast since then so operator error definately played a role in our experiences with the boat! We weighed Feisty for our MORC cert and it came in at 3,125 pounds - MORC required extra "stuff" onboard so about 10% over design displacement. Construction was typical Schock i.e. on the light side. Ours didn't have longitudinal stringers along the flat hull sections under the cockpit that I saw on others so the next owner installed them and felt it increased stiffness in the back of the bus. Fun boat but not designed or built for offshore work. Cheers!
  15. C&C 27MkV

    Lotsa experience racing on MkVs and against them on my MKIII, also several years racing S2 7.9s so I'm familiar with all three. Other than the obvious size and era differences between the C&C 27 MkIII and MkV, the truth of their potential lies in their abilities. Any numbskull with half a sailing brain can keep the older MkIIIs moving to very near their full performance ability, whereas the MkV's a slightly more challenging boat to sail to it's potential. We raced against an active fleet of 4-8 MkVs for several years on our MkIII and found the following generalities over that time: In under 5 true a MkIII can stay with or ahead of a MkV on the water upwind and down. From 5-15 true a MkIII can hold it's own on corrected time upwind if it stays relatively flat, in the chop a MkV'll get us every time,. We can stay even on the water downwind due to larger chutes and deeper angles. Over 15 true it's all MkV, we might hold them on corrected time but more likely not. With its frac rig and movable daggerboard, the 7.9's a more technical boat. It is not difficult to get 90%+ out of the boat, but the tinkerer and adjuster is rewarded more on the 7.9 than either of the C&Cs. The 7.9's the most comfortable platform to sail on - big cockpit, comfortable coamings, and wide open side decks. The MkV layout looks good at the dock but turns out to be a squeezebox on the water - there's not enough room anywhere to do the jobs effectively. And the MkIII deck design goes way back to 1971 when ergonomics and practicality hadn't been invented yet. Interiorwise, the MkIII's got by far the most space and headroom, but a pretty antiquated dinette layout. The MkV's got a nice layout and finish down below, but with 5'6" headroom it isn't really all that practical. The 7.9's interior layout's funky and basic with similar headroom, but if you see one with all the fabric stripped off the sides and ceiling it is a pretty practical layout... For appearance, I can see how all three have the row away factor for different types - I've always loved the exaggerated sheerlines of the older C&C designs, but my MORC heart loves the practicality and wolf-in-sheep's-clothing appearance of the 7.9. One last FYI, our MkIII (1976 hull #632) was weighed by load cell following a refit in 2004 and tipped the scales at 6,420 pounds (no rig, ~1 gallon of fuel, and absolutely empty of anything not attached to the boat) vs. a design displacement of 5,500 pounds. We had our fair share of success with the boat so I don't believe she's typical of MkIII weights. Cheers!