Innocent Bystander

You can get good cans today but you have to pay. https://www.justrite.com/safety-cans-and-containers/type-ii-accuflowtm-steel-safety-cans.html

I agree with MOST of what you said, except for the fast part... they ARE really fast cars, especially on an oval (well over 220 mph at Indy)... they just can't compete with the F1 handling on the street type courses... and the delta on something like COTA is impressive... although there was some speculation that since that video was made, even the IndyCars have gotten a bunch faster around there... that was footage from the FIRST time they ran it.... But I wholeheartedly agree about room for both series- as well as the watch-ability of both... this year with a lack of other events I have definitely taken in more Indy races than in the past... Don't disagree. I have to confess I'm not a fan of oval racing, be it NASCAR, Modified, or IndyCar. I accept that some are. Certainly, it takes skill and a great deal of strategy to win but I'm a road racing fan. IndyCar gives competitive racing, lots of passes and with no starter and refueling, lots of opportunity for crews to make a difference in the outcomes. There is a beauty and a precision to F-1 pit stops that has it's own attraction but far too often, it's a start to finish parade. If there is an IndyCar or IMSA race close, I'll buy full paddock passes, parking and the lot and have found the teams approachable and friendly. F-1 is such a show with limited US presence, going to COTA from the Mid-Atlantic is a major cost and time consumer and unless your pay $$$$ for F-1 Club level access or a team guest, you are not getting close to the teams. I happily watch both IndyCar road courses and F-1. I'll watch NASCAR road courses to see the elephants try to dance. All left turns for 400-500 miles? Not my game in open wheel or sedans.

As they say, more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow. Modern F-1 cars are amazing machines, even with the ever tightening restrictions to try to reign in cost. I kinda miss the days of Tyrrel, ELf, Brabham, etc where really wild design ideas could show up at any race but costs are out of control. Indy cars are not really designed to be fast. They are designed to be affordable (in a fashion), durable and provide close racing. They put 33 cars on the track over and over again. A much different group of attendees at the race weekends and teams are much more approachable than in F-1. Room for both series. IndyCar is a weekend of good racing. f-1 is by design an event where a race occurs.

Seb doesn't; play well with others and he would be #2 to Lewis. Bottas is pretty quick, Merc is a shoe in for Manufacturer and Driver's championship this year and likely next. Why would they ever add a distracted asshole to the winning team?

I don't believe that door was ever open. Maybe some of the Merc "Suits" thought it was an idea but suspect Toto was firmly against it.

Electric or battery are for pruning, nut cutting. Get a Stihl. I have a farm boss with an 18” bar and a pro with a 24” bar for big oaks, gums and hickory. For everyday use, a 16-18” bar is excellent. Run it dry or empty it if you are putting it away and use ethanol free if you can get it. I do have a 13 yo 16” Sears Poulon Pro that refuses to die. The only problem it has is the chains are a bit lite and the gas cap got warped by ethanol so it’s a pain to fuel. I keep it for roots (in dirt) or trees down in the creek and I will put the bar right into the water rinse it with fresh water spray it down with lube and wipe it down. It’s a shitty saw without a lot of power but cheap and at this point a throw away if I manage to kill it. Buy the pro chains if you trust yourself to not do stupid things. Last a lot longer and cut much better than the consumer “low kickback” ones. Just be aware that if you are stupid, it can bite you hard. No experience with them but McCulloch saws are also popular with the local pros I’ve never seen a pro with anything other than a Stihl or a McCulloch

From Annapolis, you can't get 3 miles offshore without exiting the mouth of the Bay, roughly a 130 mile one way trip. Pumping out is one of the biggest stumbling block to living aboard at a private dock. Some marinas have pump out barges that can come to your slip, some have pump outs plumbed along the piers but most will require you to go to the fuel dock or other location. Many on the Chesapeake close down from around Thanksgiving until Easter to avoid freezing damage. Again, don't overlook grey water. Even using low/no phosphate detergents, shower water, sink drains, etc can pretty quickly scum up around the boat and make you unpopular fairly quickly.

Live aboard challenge is its hard to have a boat you can sail that’s a home when you have to dress for the office daily. We looked very hard at a 45 footer and a commute to DC before kids to the point of identifying the boat and a live aboard marina. Wife was working for a lobbying firm on I St and I was Navy active duty in Crystal City so casual wasn’t an option. The reality of “closet space” and keeping it in sailing trim. Pump out and grey water (even if you are not in a no discharge area) becomes a real logistics issue at a private dock. We finally bought a house in the suburbs, commutes to work and put a 30 footer in Solomon’s to feed the sailing virus. if you have the proper mindset, it certainly can be done and single in a 40 footer gives you some space options. Just takes the right mindset and an u der standing of what is actually involved

Southern MD right on the back side. Should be sunny in another couple of hours. 2 or more F-0 tornados in strong bands earlier this AM (0700 or so) Branches and a few trees down. Surge is 2-3' but came at low time so looking OK for now. Low lying areas flooded. All-in-all, could have been a lot worse.

Mid Chesapeake this morning wind NE at 16-18 G25. Heavy rain. Tornado watch with warnings popping up.. forecasting steady 40 with gusts higher in a couple of hours and then gone a couple of hours past that. A couple of feet of surge expected but coming at low tide here.

You still can and in many cases, you can buy the factory hitch for a few hundred online. Considered that option on my CPO Macan. I could have purchased the hitch and light interface box for about $500 or so. That would have left the rear fascia pane. (cutout for the receiver) . A private Porsche shop about 80 miles from here would do the programming for about $600 so I could have done for 11-1200 and used a cutoff wheel to make a hole for the receiver. I made adding the hitch part of the deal so got a minimal discount from the selling dealer. Basically, I could have maybe saved $300 and had a hacked up installation and risked warranty on the PDK and transfer case. Decided against that on a ~$50K purchase. If it was out of warranty I might have made a different decision.

Hard as is to believe, $1,000 is below average for a luxury car dealer installed hitch. Porsche Macan or Cayenne is around $2K retrofit. Less when factory installed. Easily 1/2 of the cost is reprogramming the various computers as plugging in trailer lights command different shift points, lighting monitors, and supposedly engine tune. IIRC, an Acura MDX is around $1,500. Not sure on BMW. I would not take the risk of an aftermarket hitch given the cost of drive train repairs and the questionable warranty coverage if you had a failure.

Several friends have Tesla’s, a couple of model 3’s. All are very happy to the point of acting like LDS Missionaries at times None have seen any mechanical issues. Panel fit and paint tend to be pretty average. First few months’ production seem to be the worst in that regard. I’d be pretty hard on an inspection on a new one (used seem to hold great value so new is probably a trade off with low mileage used). If buying used from a known source, I’d say as long as you are happy with the condition, go for it.

I would guess that draft (water and air) probably eliminate the Chicken. Exceeds 75’ air and the 10’ draft is really pushing it in the Chesapeake.