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About fsiljelof

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    Stockholm, sweden
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  1. I have have my both for 3-6 months in fresh water, I clean my bottom and would like a lasting white finish with no antifoul. Part of the painted area will sit in direct sunlight (Just above the waterline so I need some sort of UV protection). I painted using durepox a few years ago, it blistered and came off. What would my best options be to redo the job? If I use West system for a barrier, is ther any way I can seal it from UV with a finsh that I do not have to redo to get a smoth white "epoxy like" finish?
  2. fsiljelof

    DIY carbon Bowsprit - best approach?

    Jib zero would be 45m2, I was recommended a 2 ton halyard lock, and to have a bowsprit that can handle the same lufftension - haven’t chosen a furler, bobstay - most likely unless you think I can do without :-)
  3. fsiljelof

    DIY carbon Bowsprit - best approach?

    @Alcatraz5768 any idea on how much carbon you would need to get a construction like that strong enough?
  4. fsiljelof

    DIY carbon Bowsprit - best approach?

    @serioladumerili above was obviously for you :-)
  5. fsiljelof

    DIY carbon Bowsprit - best approach?

    @Alcatraz5768 I havn't choosen any epoxy, but an isolated box with halogen light sounds like a simple enough solution - thanks!
  6. fsiljelof

    DIY carbon Bowsprit - best approach?

    @solosailor thank you very much, super helpfull! How did you bond the two parts togheter? What size is the boat? Would you see any problems building for a 2 ton load for a 38 ft boat flying a jib 0 from a halyard lock and 2:1 tack in the bowsprit?
  7. Our WR10 wireless pilot remote eats batteries ... is there a way to save batteries between use? I get an hour of use, a few weeks later, when I need it again, it’s dead :-( can I “shut it down”?
  8. What’s the easiest approch to building a short carbon bowsprit similar to the one on the link? I’m after a short code 0 sprit for my Prima 38. Do I need a plug and mold approach with two halfs or can I ”simply” cover a plug with carbon and let it cure? As it will be white, any imperfections could be filled and sanded before painting. DoI need to bake it in an owen or will curing at room temperature be okay? What about fittings, do I need to integrate stainless fittings to bolt it to the bow? And if so, how is that done properly? What is the best approach to make sure it fits the bow? https://goo.gl/images/zFuppY Any help or ideas on where to find a guide/ info would be very helpful - thanks!
  9. fsiljelof

    B&G H5000 Pilot calibration

    I’m struggling with my H5000 pilot calibration. I have a B&G H5000 pilot, controlling a T1 linear drive, compass is a Precision 9 also providing heel. My boat is a Prima 38, very very responsive to rudder change. Autotuning “succeeds”, however – after autotuning, the boat is struggling to stay on course, to much rudder movement to often and when changing, course 90 degrees or so, it overshoots a few degrees, but trying to correct it just keeps making larger and larger corrections – never settling on the new course. Setting the motor output to 90%, and turning the Rudder gain down to 0.15 degrees gives me a pretty straight line if I start from a stable course. However, when changing course, the same problem occurs, after a couple of degrees overshoot, the pilot keeps correcting with larger and larger movements and fails to settle on the new course. I’v tried changing the Counter rudder, trying both the minimum 0.5 seconds and the 15 seconds maximum value and several settings in between, changing counter rudder seams to have little influence, still after a couple of degrees overshoot, corrections are increasingly larger leading to a very unstable course swinging back and forth. The rudder feedback and the compass are working fine (I can see the rudder angles and heading changing in the H5000 pilot controller display). All sources are selected in configuration. Rudder is calibrated with max port/ starboard and mid. Rudder test is a success. Drive is 12v, vessel length is 11.8 meters, rudder deadband is auto Response is: Perf 1, Auto response: economy, Recovery: medium. Any ideas on what to change?
  10. fsiljelof

    B&G to Expedition

    I'm currently running expedition from my B&G Hercules H2000 via the RS 232 serial connection, the serial is converted to USB and connected to my computer. However, the link isn't very fast and every so often the USB connection is lost in rough seas and expedition needs to be restarted, all stripcharts lost… Unfortunately, my computer lack ethernet connections. WIFI, USB and USB-C is all there is. I do have a H2000 to H5000 converter from the fastnet bus as I run a H5000 pilot already and therefor all data is also on NMEA 2000. What would be the best link from H2000 to expedition? H2000 RS232 > USB H2000 RS232 > USB-C H5000 NMEA 2000 > USB H5000 NMEA 2000 > USB-C H5000 NMEA 2000 > WIFI Or something else? I’d prefer a hub solution where I can connect AIS NMEA 0183 as well and if WIFI I need a network solution via the router as I need WIFI for 4G data (weather) and remote desktop (iPad for expedition on deck). What would be the fastest and most stable solution? lost.
  11. fsiljelof

    Angled B&G plotter connectors

    I'm considering mounting a B&G Zeus3 plotter on my cockpit bulkhead, looking at the specification the plotter needs 78 mm of "depth" to fit in the bulkhead, in order to fit the connector, it needs 152 mm, are there any cables avalible with angled connectors that requires less space in the bulkhead? I'm not sure there is 15 cm between the inner and outer side. I’m not sure what to google for, what’s the name/ standard of the connector used?
  12. fsiljelof

    Keel joint cracks - epoxy?

    Thanks an exact match :-) at this time I’ve grinded it all down once again and it is very clear I’m dealing with the Farr type of flange ... the flange has been fitted in sort of a ”void” which has been filled with epoxy? not with glass anyway - the ”box” is about 10-20mm larger than the keel and the cracks are formed in the outer part of the box, that is why it looks a bit ”larger” in the picture
  13. fsiljelof

    Keel joint cracks - epoxy?

    Thank you all for very wise advise, I’m pretty confident it’s the Farr type of keel and so far I think the keel bolts are safe, I’ll grind it down again, I’ll try and get all rust out of there, prime it all ASAP after with epoxy primer - I’ll check the nuts on top, but I don’t think I’ll be able to find factory torque, Seaqust are long gone and so seams all knowledge of the design - I’ll refill with a flexible epoxy filler - hopefully it will slow things down - next winter or in the future, I’ll check my options om dropping the keel, sounds a bit drastic and expensive, but a refit like the Fart above is tempting and I guess it could be combined with some profiling work on the blade and bulb.
  14. fsiljelof

    Keel joint cracks - epoxy?

    10cm sounds on a little low, however it’s not much more - I’d really think it’s the Farr solution - many other ideas from that design in the Prima - I redid the hull last year, the keel is up this year, the image here might show proportion. By glassed in - it was only glassed by 1 or 2 layers, the entire keel blade was also glassed in one or two layers - not constructional, probably for painting or fairing?