tiz

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About tiz

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  1. I had a similar hit but with a rock, while motoring about 5kts. Boat is 1991 CS34 (solid glass below waterline). That was a $26k repair at a Brewer yard in CT. Keel off and I didn't have the hull cracking you seem to. Lots of grid and furniture damage inside. Get it done right or every time the boat heels you'll wonder..... --Kevin
  2. tiz

    RIP - Stuart Walker

    He wrote a piece (I believe it appeared in Sailing World years ago) about Long Island Sound weather and the mechanics of the seabreeze, landmasses of CT and LI, and how to take advantage as the day's weather progressed. I've sailed in LI Sound all my life. I must have read that article 30 times to try and get his theory and observations into my head. Yet I still have a hard time figuring out what's going on when I see it happening on LI Sound. But I think of him and his great intelligence and positive attitude. What an amazing contribution to the sport. RIP. --Kevin
  3. tiz

    Need Help

    Frers 33 ?
  4. Looks like a repair. I had a Mk25 a long time ago while trying to learn celestial nav. I don't recall any joints like that. First thing I learned was that the plastic sextants are so temperature-unstable that I could not get a sight withing 100 miles of where I was standing at the beach. Learn the basics on that and then get a decent one (I got an Astra 3b which is a good basic metal sextant). You'll see a big difference in your sight accuracy. --Kevin
  5. tiz

    Catalina 30 :)

    Rwaterman's comments are spot-on. I had Hull #91 (1975) for 9 years. We fixed everything except the deck/hull joint which needed nothing. The best news is everything is fixable fairly easily. Biggest structural issue was main bulkheads pulling up from their tiny fastenings in the interior pan furniture. We fixed that as recommended by Gerry Douglas with 5200 and larger fasteners and never had floppy rigging again. We patched the keel "catalina smile" but should have dropped teh keel and fixed it for real. It was never a problem other than cosmetically. There's very little storage - you will need to be creative and not a pack rat. Boat could use better ventilation and that would help the condensation issue but all boats do that to some degree. The boat sails well. Ours was standard-no-bowsprit-deep-keel. A tall rig deep keel (they are lead, not iron) in our area was sailed well and did well in PHRF and one design. If you can find one with a diesel I think it's worth it. The 1987 and later boats had a different floor and less headroom if that is an issue (I'm 6'2"). I have a 1991 CS34 now which is a great boat and I think the build quality of CS made boats is quite good. The 34, Merlin36 and 40 were Tony Castro designs and quite different than the earlier 27-30-33-36 boats. The 36's can be had fairly cheap but they seem like good boats. They will have tired interiors that need woodwork and cushions (mostly). I think a CS 30 would be small to live on but have better storage than a C30. --Kevin
  6. tiz

    Loick Peyron and his yellow tri

    A friend of mine once owned the tri Loick Peyron will be sailing and helped build it early in his career at Greene Marine. It was boat #2 of the design. Hull #1 was originally named Acapella (39). Both were Walter Greene designs and builds but heavily Newick influenced. Hull#1 was renamed Olympus and sailed by Mike Birch who won line honors in the 1978 Route du Rum. Hull #1 was capsized and lost a year later by Yves le Cornec. My friend bought the #2 hull and named it Acapella and raced it locally out of Main and Cape Cod. I got a ride on it on a snotty day on Buzzards Bay years ago (like 35). Great to see it in this race with possibly Peyron's last RdR. Hopefully I have the story straight. The hull numbers (39) seem to be the same for Hull #1 in 1978 and #2 now. Not sure why that is but I have asked the question. Possibly a nod to Mike Birch? ** more info - A Capella was Hull #3 and originally (and currently) owned by Charlie Capelle (also a Greene Marine Alumni). Hull #2 was Phil Steggal's "Friends and Lovers". My friend also named his Acapella and it's now "Happy" with LP. Charlie Capelle is sailing his Hull #3 in this edition of the RdR. --Kevin
  7. tiz

    Show your boat not sailing

    Rode Trip on the orange mooring at 5 Islands, ME
  8. tiz

    Asymmetrical spin (only) takedown

    Just blow the tack AFTER getting hold of the sheet. Right after the tack, blow off about 10 ft of halyard then stop while you collect the bottom of the sail. Be ready to dump more halyard as you get the sail shoved into the companionway. The sail should collapse and/or flag out from where you are gathering it. You could start the engine to motor ahead downwind to reduce apparent wind. --Kevin
  9. Have had one on last two boats for 20 years or so. Just a replacement bulb with correct brightness and 360deg coverage. No issues. --Kevin
  10. tiz

    Snowflakes and sailing

    The sport is correcting itself. No need for rule 69 protests. There's just a few assholes and soon that will be all the fleets have. Just my opinion. I have no desire to race anymore because it's not fun. --Kevin
  11. If it fits a 74mm x 20mm hole in the mast I'm all ears. Could enlarge the 74mm but I would not want to enlarge it too much (not over 3.25 in total hole height) . --Kevin
  12. Thanks guys. I'm sure they are being oriented correctly. But the plastic tab that holds them in isn't strong enough when the halyard gets bowed out from the mast on a hoist. It breaks right off. I have tried to narrow the edge it clamps on to but that doesn't help. I could leave the holes and soften the edges but the halyards are 10mm and the hole is 20mm wide so it's not exactly attractive. The stainless schaefer ones are actually shorter, so they would not cover the holes I have. Others are 3x longer and narrower, so that fit isn't good either. Also not sure about making enormous holes in my mast. What a pain in the ass. --Kevin
  13. tiz

    Removing Vinyl Lettering at Mooring

    This is bs: ============== "the vinyl removal wheel will scuff the gel coat which will be whiter than the surrounding gel coat , then you will need to polish the scuffs out which will make a large whiter than white patch on the side of your boat ." ================ I've used the 3m stripe remover wheel on several boats and it does not scuff the gelcoat at all. Use light touch and it comes right off. Battery drill would work if you have a few batteries. The hull underneath will not be as faded as the rest. Compound the entire thing to get close to same color shade. --Kevin 
  14. My mast uses the NG1-7 plastic exit plates. EVERY TIME someone jumps a halyard, the plastic tab that holds them in breaks off and they become useless. For $19 each at Rig-Rite I would expect a much better product. These should be $5 tops given the way they break off. Has anyone seen them for a lot cheaper? The hole is 74mm x 20mm as stated in the product info. I have not measured mine. It seems like a big hole and I wouldn't want to go much larger (CS34 - 33.5 ft boat not sure of mast section model number). Need 2 jib halyard exits and a mainsail halyard exit. Does anyone custom make exits? At about $120/yr in exit replacements I could probably justify them. --Kevin
  15. tiz

    installing radar on my C27

    I would think aluminum pole mount at stern (ex spin pole?) would be easy and not hard to source the stuff. Work out a f/g tube through the deck and maybe a strut or two (old dodger/bimini tubes) for brace to stern rail. Get someone to weld a scrap mount plate on top to take the radome. Paint with rustoleum. Wires run down inside. I did basically the same on a cal 40 I had and it worked great. GPS ant on stern rail. Although I like the f/g mast mount idea and the diy fabrication. --Kevin