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About tiz

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  • Birthday July 2

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  1. tiz

    Show your boat not sailing

    Rode Trip on the orange mooring at 5 Islands, ME
  2. tiz

    Asymmetrical spin (only) takedown

    Just blow the tack AFTER getting hold of the sheet. Right after the tack, blow off about 10 ft of halyard then stop while you collect the bottom of the sail. Be ready to dump more halyard as you get the sail shoved into the companionway. The sail should collapse and/or flag out from where you are gathering it. You could start the engine to motor ahead downwind to reduce apparent wind. --Kevin
  3. Have had one on last two boats for 20 years or so. Just a replacement bulb with correct brightness and 360deg coverage. No issues. --Kevin
  4. tiz

    Snowflakes and sailing

    The sport is correcting itself. No need for rule 69 protests. There's just a few assholes and soon that will be all the fleets have. Just my opinion. I have no desire to race anymore because it's not fun. --Kevin
  5. If it fits a 74mm x 20mm hole in the mast I'm all ears. Could enlarge the 74mm but I would not want to enlarge it too much (not over 3.25 in total hole height) . --Kevin
  6. Thanks guys. I'm sure they are being oriented correctly. But the plastic tab that holds them in isn't strong enough when the halyard gets bowed out from the mast on a hoist. It breaks right off. I have tried to narrow the edge it clamps on to but that doesn't help. I could leave the holes and soften the edges but the halyards are 10mm and the hole is 20mm wide so it's not exactly attractive. The stainless schaefer ones are actually shorter, so they would not cover the holes I have. Others are 3x longer and narrower, so that fit isn't good either. Also not sure about making enormous holes in my mast. What a pain in the ass. --Kevin
  7. tiz

    Removing Vinyl Lettering at Mooring

    This is bs: ============== "the vinyl removal wheel will scuff the gel coat which will be whiter than the surrounding gel coat , then you will need to polish the scuffs out which will make a large whiter than white patch on the side of your boat ." ================ I've used the 3m stripe remover wheel on several boats and it does not scuff the gelcoat at all. Use light touch and it comes right off. Battery drill would work if you have a few batteries. The hull underneath will not be as faded as the rest. Compound the entire thing to get close to same color shade. --Kevin 
  8. My mast uses the NG1-7 plastic exit plates. EVERY TIME someone jumps a halyard, the plastic tab that holds them in breaks off and they become useless. For $19 each at Rig-Rite I would expect a much better product. These should be $5 tops given the way they break off. Has anyone seen them for a lot cheaper? The hole is 74mm x 20mm as stated in the product info. I have not measured mine. It seems like a big hole and I wouldn't want to go much larger (CS34 - 33.5 ft boat not sure of mast section model number). Need 2 jib halyard exits and a mainsail halyard exit. Does anyone custom make exits? At about $120/yr in exit replacements I could probably justify them. --Kevin
  9. tiz

    installing radar on my C27

    I would think aluminum pole mount at stern (ex spin pole?) would be easy and not hard to source the stuff. Work out a f/g tube through the deck and maybe a strut or two (old dodger/bimini tubes) for brace to stern rail. Get someone to weld a scrap mount plate on top to take the radome. Paint with rustoleum. Wires run down inside. I did basically the same on a cal 40 I had and it worked great. GPS ant on stern rail. Although I like the f/g mast mount idea and the diy fabrication. --Kevin
  10. How about a google search for "rubber connector boot" http://sunnydirect.ca/coaxial-connector-weather-rubber-boots-protect-cable-connector-uv-protected-rubber-boot-bag-of-5.html --Kevin
  11. tiz

    Spinnaker masthead block sizing

    Thanks. I tend to go look things over there a few times per season. The garhauer stuff is high load and rugged but it's heavy and large in size. I have had their jib lead blocks shred expensive sheets before. No thanks. I can replace the block I got in 5 years if I still have the boat and it looks bad. The boat's a 1991 and the mainsheet blocks are lewmar originals. They look and operate just fine. I'm in CT not Key West. --Kevin
  12. I second these. Have used them for years. Good stuff. --Kevin
  13. tiz

    Spinnaker masthead block sizing

    Lightest doesn't matter much (would not want a giant snatch block up there...) but reliability is, and small size as possible. I ended up with Ronstan series 50 high load swivel block and it seems like it will work. I wanted the simplicity of a low friction ring but the chance is very high that we might be grinding up a 3/4 hoisted full chute and needed that to be as easy as possible. No snuffers here. Been there, not going back soon. Thanks all. --Kevin
  14. tiz

    Continuous dock line?

    "And/or Install an upright staff on the slip [finger] with a v notch at the top. Make the v to be level with cockpit combing so you can reach out and grab it from cockpit. Hang lines in v on departure. Pick up lines from here by a simple reach on arrival ." This. Do this. Maybe two of them. Can be done easily and cheap with pvc. One supports stern line and spring from dock to stern, the other supports bow and spring to bow. Drive into slip, get stern and aft spring on and leave engine in forward gear at idle while you casually walk up and attach the bow and fwd spring. I had a cal 40 and ran it alone a lot. Docking was no problem if you can get a spring on amidships. --Kevin
  15. tiz

    Spinnaker masthead block sizing

    Ok I searched around and finally found what I need. Thanks. --Kevin