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    • Zapata

      Abbreviated rules   07/28/2017

      Underdawg did an excellent job of explaining the rules.  Here's the simplified version: Don't insinuate Pedo.  Warning and or timeout for a first offense.  PermaFlick for any subsequent offenses Don't out members.  See above for penalties.  Caveat:  if you have ever used your own real name or personal information here on the forums since, like, ever - it doesn't count and you are fair game. If you see spam posts, report it to the mods.  We do not hang out in every thread 24/7 If you see any of the above, report it to the mods by hitting the Report button in the offending post.   We do not take action for foul language, off-subject content, or abusive behavior unless it escalates to persistent stalking.  There may be times that we might warn someone or flick someone for something particularly egregious.  There is no standard, we will know it when we see it.  If you continually report things that do not fall into rules #1 or 2 above, you may very well get a timeout yourself for annoying the Mods with repeated whining.  Use your best judgement. Warnings, timeouts, suspensions and flicks are arbitrary and capricious.  Deal with it.  Welcome to anarchy.   If you are a newbie, there are unwritten rules to adhere to.  They will be explained to you soon enough.  

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Found 7 results

  1. Managing epoxy cure times

    So far I've patched up some holes, strengthened a few pieces and fabbed some other little bits and pieces, so I'm slowly getting better at Epoxying the tips of my fingers together :-) Initially I used the West Systems sachets, I now have WS 105+205 jugs with pumps, peel ply, CF, Fiber Glass and Carbon Kevlar Fiber cloth, and bunch of quick questions. I work in small 8oz batches as delivered by the WS pumps; usually my pieces are small or tiny. Environment is Miami, FL, so warm+humid. Work happens on my balcony with a view of the bay where I pine to sail. Therefore I don't have much patience, I want to be in the water and not mucking about with glue! :-) How short can you reasonably wait for one coat to be 'tacky' and ready for next layer? How long can I keep epoxy in liquid/gel state by cooling down in a wide-bottomed pot? How cold does it need to be? Is there overlap between those, so I can get two coats out of one 8oz batch? :-) (Edit: for example, can we put rough numbers to the fine graph in this WS article? https://www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/epoxy-chemistry/ ) When I'm working on strengthening a piece, layering on top... if I patiently wait for the base coat to get tacky and apply the first layer of cloth... is it reasonable, safe, sound to apply a couple more layers of cloth? (assuming a flat/simple surface, laid out flat). All these "wait two hours" bits pile up :-) Is there any rough cure time "calculator"? I know it's hard with all the temp, batch size, pot shape variables... And finally -- what's your favorite home DIY composite technique (link to writeup or video...)? I'm specially interested in tips and techniques for low-effort decent finish. So far my pieces have been plenty strong, but hairy/spiky and ugly as sin.
  2. hello all! long time lurker, first time poster. Wildly aggravated by the lack of good information on the net about this. pearson p26 from 1977. cheap. floating and worthy. pulled onto hard at my shop. dings, scrapes, etc, 40+ years of mutual abuse before me i have about 400 bucks worth of fiberglass equipment and materials. west systems. 410 for fairing. going to grind and clean and re surface the hull proper. glass in the bottom of the rudder tube again (looks like a rubberized something that sealed it originaly, crap.). fairing, sanding, but 90% of the boat is still gelcoat. I don't want to mess with gel coat for a boat this old an inconsequential. i want to go straight to paint and such. i've heard good things about something called awlgrip. i need opinions. insights. help me from wasting a thousand dollars on supplies that end up failing.
  3. How to mount hardware on deck

    A short clip that shows the best way to install new gear and hardware on deck. If more people installed hardware like this, we had way fewer moisture problems in our cored decks. Enjoy!
  4. I need to make a minor fiberglass+epoxy repair on the bottom of one of the hulls of my cat (using the West Systems kit). Being shorthanded, and practical (erm, lazy!)... any tips for working from below?The repair is very small - about size of a quarter coin. My current plan is to...- make sure I don't get the epoxy on me- glad wrap to smooth the surfacehints and ideas welcome :-)
  5. Carbon nanotube epoxy resin

    Has any done any comparative testing on this material vs. regular epoxy? Does it add any benefit? Is it smoke and mirrors? Note -- this is epoxy resin with carbon nanotubes already in it, designed for use where regular epoxy would be used.
  6. Hey, so this winter I'm making a new set of foils for the little Sculpin's Opti (dagger board and rudder). Foam core, layup per the Opti rules, good to go. The only thing I'm not sure of is how to get a nice glossy finish on them - which they've got to have or they will be deemed "unacceptable" by the little guy. Well, not really, but I don't want him to be the odd one out. Little kids can be bastards to each other... I've sanded the foils to 220, everything is nice and smooth. So - what do I apply to it to get a nice glossy topcoat? I am thinking some Interlux Perfection Plus, it would probably do a good job of it. Any better ideas? cheers, - the Sculpin
  7. uglyboom

    Winter project underway.... When we bought Masse she had an old mainsail that was wrapped around the boom. I soon found out why as the PO had somehow managed too clobber the boom and you couldn't get the slides out past where the aluminum was bent. Well, a hammer and cold chisel fixed that but left a pretty dinged up slide track which I have finally gotten around to cleaning up. We sailed with the crappy main and buggered up boom last season but this year I'm springing for a new main and can't stand the thought of putting it onto the same uglyboom.... I've looked at replacing it but every option is either too much money or too much fabrication work to justify. The boom is still straight, just a little wrinkled at the middle so I'm pretty resigned to using it again. I'll be removing/beefing up the mainsheet & vang hardware as well as replacing a bunch of loose rivets this winter so I might as well give it a coat of paint. The boom appears to have been anodized and some of that has worn through as you'll see in my pictures. 1. Do I need to strip all of this off, or should I paint over it? 2. Zinc chromate primer? That's what my dad used on the airplane he built but that was raw aluminum in the '60's 3. Two part epoxy, one part poly, or krylon (I want it to look good but would like to keep materials costs down) 4. Orange? Thanks, John